Sjthranj
lmm>rattg of fttiahurgfj
Darlington Memorial Library
<&{*&&■%■£" 3 6. 3
Snok C71&
Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2010 with funding from
University of Pittsburgh Library System
http://www.archive.org/details/journeyinnortham12coll
A JOURNEY
NORTH AMERICA,
/ CONTA1N1
IING
A SURVEY OF THE COUNTRIES WATERED BY THE MISSISSIPI, OHIO, MISSOURI,
AND OTHER AFFLUING RIVERS J
WITH EXACT OBSERVATIONS ON THE COURSE AND SOUNDINGS OF THESE
rivers; and on THE towns, VILLAGES, hamlets and farms
OF THAT PART OF THE NEW- WORLD ;
FOLLOWED BT PHILOSOPHICAL, POLITICAL, MILITARY AND COMMERCIAL
REMARKS
AND BY A PROJECTED LINE OF FRONTIERS AND GENERAL LIMITS,
Illustrated
' BY 36 MAPS, PLANS, VIEWS AND DIVERS CUTS
BY, VICTOR COLLOT,
Late General in the Fi enoli service , and Governor of Guadeloupe.
PARIS,
PRINTED FOR ARTHUS BERTRAND, BOOKSELLER,
N° 23, RlfE HAUTEFEUILLE.
1826.
/
7 76
« o
mm
PREFACE
OF THE EDITOR
1 he author of the work we offer at present
to the Public served during the first American
war in the staff of the French army, under the
command of Marshal Rochambeau.
Though still young at that time, he reflected
on the high importance of geographical inqui-
ries respecting that part of the American conti-
nent to the trade and policy of the European
Powers. He felt a strong wish to undertake those
inquiries which he would immediately have
made, had not particular circumstances oppo-
sed his purpose.
Jj PREFACE OF THE EDITOR.
Named Governor of Guadeloupe, General
Collot administer'd that colony until its capture
by the English. He then fell himself in their
hands, and was sent to the United States.
Scarcely had he arrived in Philadelphia, when
he was arrested at the suit of a merchant of that
city, for having, during his administration at
Guadeloupe , confirmed the sentence of the
Conseil des prises, condemning a vessel which
belonged to the American merchant. He was
forced to give bail, and to promise on his honor
to remain in the country, in case his presence
might be necessary before the courts of law.
To beguile the hardship of his position,
M. Collot wished to employ the time of his ba-
nishment in a manner useful to his country, and
in consequence he resumed his former pro-
ject of travelling in the interior of North America.
Adjudant general Warin , an officer of high
merit, who had served under his orders and ac-
PREFACE OF THE EDITOR. Hj
companied him to the United States, joined him
in his entreprise. The Work we publish is the
result of their labours, which cost the infortu-
nate companion of the General his life.
As soon as general Collot returned to France,
he set down to digest the notes he had taken.
The Work was written and printed in French
and in English, a translation in the latter lan-
guage having been carefully made by an En-
glishman, under the eyes of the General himself.
The maps and views, 38 in number, were en-
graved when death surprized the author.
The whole edition has lately been sold by the
notary of the Estate, and the bookseller who
purchased it reserved no more than 3oo copies
in French, and ioo in English. All the rest have
been destroyed in a view to give more value to
this important Work.
The Editor cannot help acknowledging that
some things are altered in America since the time
iv PREFACE OF THE EDITOR.
this Journey was written; but whatever concerns
the topography of this country and the course
of the rivers has remained the same. It is that
which the editor flatters himself will long give
interest to the present work, and render valua-
ble in the eyes of the Public the observations of
so judicious a Traveller.
^^^->i-_^~
INTRODUCTION,
M« ADET, Minister Plenipotentiary from France to
the United States, having proposed to me to furnish him
with a minute detail of the political, commercial, and
military state of the western part of that continent, I
determined to undertake an expedition, which might
procure to the French Republic a portion at least of such
information, as the Minister was desirous of obtaining.
I did not deceive myself respecting the difficulties, and
even the dangers, of the journey; but at a distance from
the theatre where I might have encountered perils as
a soldier in the service of my country, I found pleasure
in undertaking a task, which, though laborious, was
useful, and expressed my warmest gratitude to the minister
for the choice, which afforded me an opportunity so
auspicious to my wishes.
It must be acknowledged, that England holds a great
superiority over us in every thing which relates to the
11 INTRODUCTION.
discovery of remote countries. In England, the govern-
ment, the learned societies, and private associations,
are continually employed in sending out, at their own
expense, well-informed men, for the purpose of in-
creasing the mass of this kind of knowledge, which is
peculiar to that nation. The natural propensity of the
English for distant expeditions furnishes the government
and those societies with ample means of accomplishing
this honorable and important purpose; and the exten-
sion and prodigious activity of English commerce gives
an extraordinary facility to such enterprises. Almost
the whole of the globe has been visited within the last
twenty years by the English; whilst under the old French
government, the nation, buried in apathy, remained an
idle spectator of the toils of English travellers. The
nature of that government, the ideas and habits which
resulted from its administration, left in a state of supine-
ness that industry and activity which it was so easy to
animate; and we obtained from translations only that
knowledge which English travellers gathered at the very
source. Our shameful indifference concurred, in this
manner, to foster in the mind of the English the persua-
sion of their superiority over us ; a sentiment which they
have not failed to propagate, wherever they have acquired
any influence.
INTRODUCTION. HI
Among the various countries concerning which the old
French government were interested in gaining the most
certain information, North America holds the first rank.
To have contributed so powerfully to the independence
of the United States, and to have torn them from Eng-
land, was undoubtedly a great enterprise ; but a know-
ledge of their resources, of the means of making them
contribute to our own advantage, of their political and
geographical situation, as well as more detailed informa-
tion of the countries by which they were surrounded,
was necessary in order to make ourselves intimately ac-
quainted with the means of assisting the United States,
if they remained our allies, or of menacing their tran-
quillity if they joined our enemies. America seems destined
to act a brilliant part, some years hence, in the political
balance of Europe. Our enemies and friends possess
immense territories in these regions; and it is only by
topographical knowledge that governments can be
enlightened with respect to concessions, conventions,
and demands, which, though apparently indifferent at
present, may, nevertheless, at a future period, determine
the pre-eminence or inferiority of our nation, of our allies,
or of our enemies, in that interesting part of the world.
The English, in consequence of their taste for travelling,
the ambitious views of their government, and their extend-
IV INTRODUCTION.
ed commerce, particularly in the fur trade, have enriched
themselves with a considerable portion of essential infor-
mation, which had hitherto been concealed. Such, for
intance, was the journey of Mackenzie, in 1794, when
he penetrated to the Pacific Ocean across the western
deserts; whilst a few memorials of Jesuits, or other
missionaries, written more than sixty years since, are
the. only monuments which France can produce of its
labors and its researches into Northern America. Let
us not, however, admit a doubt that France, awakened
to the spirit of liberty, will, by a natural consequence,
be animated also to every undertaking which can con-
tribute to the happiness and glory of the nation. Let
us cherish the persuasion that the government, anxious
to take advantage of that intelligence, activity, and
patriotism, which no other nation possesses in so emi-
nent a degree, will cultivate this important branch of
knowledge; and that France, which from an ardent
love of liberty, has, by its courage and intrepidity,
filled the whole world with the fame of its victories, will
assume also the first rank in every department of science,
of learning, and of enterprise, which can add to its
prosperity, and contribute to the extension of its intel-
lectual attainments.
INTRODUCTION. V
In the account which I had to render of my mission,
it appeared to me that the most simple mode was the best.
I have therefore classed, in a regular manner, the different
objects which I saw during a journey of ten months.
I shall make no apologies for Inaccuracies of style • I have
no pretension to the character of a literary man, nor have
I been in the habit of writing; but I can assert with con-
fidence, that the most unwearied attention, the most per-
severing labors, have not been spared, in order to obtain
every kind of information; and that, in the narrative
I am about to offer, I have preserved the most scrupulous
veracity. I should have considered myself as unworthy
of being entrusted with so important a mission, had I
on any occasion swerved from the rigor of truth.
Philadelphia,
24th Ventose, 4lh year of the French Republic,
One and Indivisible.
The Minister Plenipotentiary of the French Republic at the
United States, to the Citizen Victor Colxot, General of
Brigade.
" Citizen,
" Considering your services as useful to the
u Republic, I inform you, that it is my intention to employ
" you in your quality of General of Brigade during the period
" of the mission which I purpose to confide to you, or until
" the Executive Directory has otherwise ordered."
PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION;
OR SKETCH OF THE GENERAL OUTLINE OF NORTH AMERICA,
AND OF THE COUNTRY WHICH FORMS THE PLAIN OF
THE MISSISSIPI.
THE two great chains of mountains which bound and
traverse the continent of America, and which are called
the Alleganies and the Cordeleras, are the continuation of
those lofty heights, which, after traversing South America,
form, one the isthmus of Panama, the other the chain of
the Antilles. These mountains lose themselves at the north
and east of North America; the Cordeleras at the point
discovered by Mackenzie towards the sixty-first degree of
northern latitude ; the Alleganies at Niagara, where the
river St. Lawrence pierces its bed of granite, and forms
the celebrated cataract which bears its name.
These are the only two chains of mountains in the
continent of America, which, from their elevation, their
nature, and their vast extent, can be classed under the
vol. i. b
2 PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION-.
name of primitive mountains ; the rest are only secondary,
or of the third order, which, branching out in different
directions, form lower ranges of hills or promontories.*
These two chains of mountains run nearly at equal
distances ; the one from the coasts of the Southern Ocean,
the other from those of the Northern. The space, which
separates those mountains in North America, is a vast
plain, watered by the Mississipi, and by the rivers
tributary to this stream ; which may be distinguished by
* The following characteristics distinguish these two classes of moun-
tains: the primitive mountains traverse a vast extent of country, without
varying in their general direction; they never disappear, and are connected
together, unless broken by great objects, such as the sea: the secondary
mountains, on the contrary, occupy less space in the same track, extend
themselves in various directions, and are either insulated, grouped, or scat-
tered. When it happens that the primitive mountains are composed of
several ranges, these ranges run always parallel to each other; unlike second-
ary mountains, which often form lines that are infinitely varied, and angles
of different degrees. The summits of the primitive mountains are seldom or
never covered with wood ; and, when they are thus clothed, it is only by
one kind, which is resinous wood, such as pines or cedars: the secondary
mountains, on the contrary, are well covered from their summit to their
base, and with wood of every kind. The primitive mountains are very
unequal in their elevation, and are jagged at the tops ; whilst the others are
generally smooth, round, or flattened, and appear to the eye as if they were
festooned or cylindrical. On the whole, it is the secondary mountains alone
PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION. 5
the names of the waters of Mexico and the plain of the
Mississipi.
The Alleganies divide the waters of the Atlantic from
those of the Mississipi ; the Cordeleras, those of the
Mississipi from the Pacific Ocean. The Mississipi majr,
therefore, be considered as the great artery of the northern
continent of America; the rivers of which take their
source, some at the east in the Alleganies, the others at
the west in the Cordeleras ; and which, after traversing
almost every temperate latitude, throw themselves into
the gulf of Mexico, which forms the grand receptacle.
Independently of this general division of the waters,
there are also important subdivisions, formed by secon-
dary mountains, or elevated plains. The plateau, elevated
plain*(A), one of the most remarkable, (See the map, No. I.)
which form the rallies, the undulations, the elevated plains, the falls, and
the rapids. The difference in their substance is also striking. See on this
subject, Kirwan, Ramond, Dolomieu, etc.
* This plateau, as far as respects military objects, is, perhaps, the first
on the globe : it is a block ^of granite without mountains, commanding,
on every part of its circumference, an immense distance ; situated precisely
on the extremity of the natural and probable frontier of the English,
Spanish, and American possessions. Hitherto it is a region belonging to
no state; but the power, into whose hands it falls, will incontestably
possess the key of all the waters of this vast plain.
4 PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION.
divides the waters of the river of St. Lawrence, of
Hudson's Bay, and of the Mississippi, from those which
throw themselves into the Pacific Ocean and the Icy
Sea. This immense plain, which reaches from the twen-
ty-ninth to the forty-first degree, (where are supposed to
be the sources of the Missouri,) is covered with forests,
natural meadows, lakes, rivers, streams, and falls of
water.
The forests of this plain bear no resemblance to those
of the northern and eastern parts of America, the greater
part of which forests are thick and humid, impervious
to the beams of the sun, and through which the air
scarcely circulates. Those, on the contrary, which cover
the lands watered by the Ohio, the Mississipi, the Red
River; those of St. Francis, the Arkansas, of the Grand
Osages, and all the western part of the Mississipi, are
composed of lofty trees, clear, without brushwood,
open to the sun, and to the free circulation of the air.
It is observed, also, that the height, the size, and the
quality of the wood, are very superior to that which
grows towards the north and east.
Barren and gravelly veins of earth, called by the
Canadians pays de misere, are sometimes found on
elevated spots : this soil is thinly covered with a kind
of brushwood, resembling young shoots of two years
PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION. 5
growth. Such spots are not very frequent,, and seldom
occupy much space.
These immense forests are often intersected by na-
tural meadows, the extent of which can scarcely he
measured by the eye, and is sometimes so vast that they
seem to blend with the horizon. There are two kinds of
those meadows, that of the vallies and that of the heights.
The meadows of the vallies are situated in low grounds,
and on the banks of great rivers ; the most extensive are
those which line the borders of the great Osages, of the
Arkansas, the Missouri, and the right side of the Missis-
sipi, from the fall of St. Anthony to the mouth of
the Missouri. The soil of the meadows of the vallies
is chiefly formed of earth washed down from the hills,
and is in general extremely fertile. These meadows are
covered with medicinal plants and herbs of endless
variety ; some of these plants are nearly twenty feet
high : these meadows are without trees ; which, how-
ever, does not arise from the nature of the soil, since it
is well known that, if planted, they would grow with
extreme rapidity.
The meadows on the heights, particularly those to
the north of the Missouri, are composed of a light and
gravelly soil, impregnated often with metallic and sul-
phurious substances, brought down probably from the
6 PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION.
Cordeleras. What leads to this conjecture is the observa-
tion, that the nearer you approach these mountains, the
forests are more thinly scattered, the wood is clearer,
the trees smaller, and the meadows on the heights more
numerous, so that towards the Madane,* very few trees
are seen.
These meadows are covered with herbs of smaller
growth, and less abundant than those which grow in the
valliesj they are also more aromatic. Sometimes they
are intercepted by tufts of wood composed of small oaks,
black and stunted, called by the Americans post oak.
These meadows occupy a plain surface, but less extensive
than the former.
On the right side of the Missouri, at the west or south
west, there are meadows of so extraordinary a nature,
that they belong to neither of the other classes. The
soil through which run the rivers Plata and Qui court,
is composed of a mass of pure marl, which is covered
only by a coat of very fine sand, and on which scarcely
any traces of vegetation are to be seen. This marl is
easily diluted, if we may judge from the waters of those
rivers, which are white as milk j a tint which they pre-
* An Indian nation dwelling on the Missouri, — See the Chart, aiid
the chapter Missouri.
PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION. 7
serve during the whole of their course, and which they
communicate to the Missouri.
Towards the south-west, between the sources of the
river of the Arkansas and those of the great Osages, the
whole soil is sprinkled with a powder of efflorescent salt,
which is continually penetrating across the pores of the
earth, and which, from its extreme divisibility, is almost
impalpable* Here and there a small fine grass may be
sometimes perceived starting through this dust, not unlike
that which grows on our downs, but shorter. The
mountains which border this valley are composed of a
fossil salt, pure and hard as a rock. Their summits, on
the northern side only, are covered with a brown and
duskish crust, which the inclemency of the seasons ap-
pears to have imprinted: the opposite sides and the flanks
of these mountains are white, and brilliant as chrystal.
The waters of the river of the Arkansas, which in some
places perforate veins of these pillars of salt, are impreg-
nated with this mineral like those of the sea. At their
source' they are of the finest blue; and it is only after
running some hundreds of miles that they grow turbid,
*It is probable that this efflorescent salt is a carbonate of potash, of a nature
analogous to the natruni of Egypt, the result of that kind of decomposition
of sea salt by clay, and which was discovered by M. Guyton Morveau.
8 PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION.
take a yellowish tint, and become fit to drink; pre-
serving, however, a brackish taste, till they fall in with
the waters of the Mississipi.
This valley is filled with a multitude of animals, at-
tracted by the salt : whole droves of every kind are seen
peaceably roving, nor does it appear that the strongest
take any advantage of their power over those which are
weaker. Nature displays in this valley the most stupen-
dous aspect of rude magnificence, the contemplation of
which excites the most singular emotions.
These mountains are formed by pillars of salt heaped
on each other: these pillars are pyramidical ; some are
scattered, others remain in groups, but all thrown to-
gether in such confusion that they seem to have been the
sport of tempests. The variety of brown, black, and
luminously white colors, the splendor of which is re-
doubled by the rays of the sun ; the groups of animals
embellished at a distance by the reflection of the light
on the white and shining dust which covers this vast
plain; the lowing of those savage herds, joined to the
noise of the torrents which rush from the mountains;
the desolating nakedness and total absence of all vege-
tation, as if nature had disdained in this region to clothe
the earth ; the turbid and tinted waters of the different
rivers which rush along this valley, and, by the rapidity
PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION. A
of their course seem anxious to escape from abodes to
which they can give neither life nor beauty; to these
objects if we add the various optical illusions which take
place, the effects of light and shade of the morning and
evening, we may form some idea of the changing scenes
which these mountains present — scenes which it is
impossible to describe, but which leave on the mind
impressions of melancholy and sublimity that can never
be effaced. These mountains are called by the Indians
Enchanted Mountains, and by the Canadians Shining
Mountains. A chain of heights branches off from these
masses of salt, and after having changed its nature, takes
its direction towards the South, crosses a part of New
Mexico and New Leon, and separates the waters of the
river Mississipi from those which throw themselves into
the river Rio Bravo.*
Nature in the plains of the Mississipi has not been less
lavish in the formation of lakes than in that of meadows
and forests; their number and extent are prodigious j
they are also extremely dissimilar. The lakes of the
plains and the salt lakes have features that are entirely
distinct.
* Those heights are the natural limits which will one day separate Louisiana
from New Mexico.
lO PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION-.
The lakes of the plains are found in sunken hills, or
in vallies surrounded by secondary mountains, in which
the waters are collected, till rising to a certain height
they open a passage on the side of those which are the
least elevated, and from thence generally form streams
or rivers, of which these lakes may he considered as the
reservoirs. The disorder which prevails in the distri-
bution of the secondary mountains is such, that they are
often linked together, often insulated, and sometimes form
a continued chain of lakes. Such are the lakes Superior,
Michigan,. Huron, Erie, and Ontario j which lakes, after
communicating their waters to each other by natural
canals or straits, give birth to the river St. Lawrence.
The Slave and Athabasca Lakes mingle their waters
and form Slave River, which loses itself in the Icy
Sea.
Bear Lake alone forms the primitive source of the
Mississipi, which is augmented at some distance by the
waters which flow from several other small lakes that
are adjoining, but distinct from each other.
The Western river, lately discovered, and which
throws itself into the Southern Ocean, towards the forty-
fourth degree of latitude, takes its rise also from lake
Organ alone.
PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION. 11
The communication of lake Superior with Rainy-
lake* is partly formed by a cluster of small lakes strung,
as it were, together like beads ; sometimes connected,
and sometimes at small distances from each other.
But though the lakes seem dispersed in this plain,
their common centre is the Plateau, or elevated plain
(A), whence they all take their rise. It is from this
centre that they pursue their different directions to the
north, the south, the east, and west; and, after forming
internal navigations which have no parallel, communicate
with the Icy Sea, Hudson's Bay, the gulf of St. Law-
rence, and the gulf of Mexico. §
Whether these lakes were the work of the sea, when
parts of the continent were successively buried under its
waters; or whether they were produced by some extra-
ordinary commotion of the earth, which formed abysses
of elevated plains ; it is certain., that one of the indispen-
* See the chapter on the Fur Trade, at the end of this hook.
§.The communication of these waters with the Icy Sea is formed by the
lakes Winnipic, Athabasca, the Slave lake, and Slave river ; with the
gulf of St. Lawrence, by the lakes Superior, Huron, Erie, Ontario, and
the river St. Lawrence ; with Hudson's Bay, by the rivers Severn, NtLson,
and Churchill, which take their sources from the Slave lake and from the
lake of Athabasca ; and lastly with the gulf of Mexico, by the river
Mississipi.
C 2
12 PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION.
sable requisites for the preservation of these lakes in their
present form, extent, and depth, is that the rivers which
empty themselves into these reservoirs be pure and lim-
pid ; since were this not the case, they would soon be
choaked up by the sand, or earth, brought down by the
waters ; it is, however, to be remarked, that their
waters are clear, and that the rivers which flow
into them are, from their very sources, of the same
nature. From these observations it necessarily results,
that the beds of these lakes are of rock or gravel, and
that the soil of all the lands around them, as well as of
the plateau (A), is composed of the same substances.
The salt lakes are generally found in the midst of
alluvions, near coasts that are low and sandy, and in the
proximity of the mouths of rivers which flow gently.,
and are subject to inundations. These waters, escaping
by channels, or filtering through the sands, and not having
sufficient force to overcome the obstacles which they
meet from the sea-breakers, flow back and form inland
basins.
When the current of these rivers is very rapid, the
breakers give rise only to bars;* but if, on the contrary,
* As may be seen at the chief outlet of the Mississipi, of the Amazons,
and the Oronooko.
PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION. l3
the current be slow, flowing from small branches of
rivers, then the sea, breaking continually on these bars,
and adding new matter, at length forms banks, which
dividing from the sea the waters that its waves have
driven back, leave a greater or less volume between
the banks and the old ground. It is in this manner
that the lakes Borgnes, Barataria, Maurepas, Pontchar-
train, and all small lakes in general, are formed.
The lakes Borgnes, Maurepas, and Pontchartrain,
which intermingle their waters, are formed by the current
of the river Amit, and by a small branch of the Mississipi ;
but the waters of the Mississipi flow only in times of
inundation, and when a part escapes by the channel of
Ibberville.*
The waters of the river Amit communicate the whole
year with those of the lakes ; the Mississipi only for three
months; those of the Amit are clear; the waters of the
Mississipi, on the contrary, are muddy. When this river
mingles, the lake becomes muddy also; but when it sub-
sides, the lake regains its limpidity. Were there not this
difference between the waters of the Mississipi and the
river Amit, which last is employed to clear away in
twelve months what the former has deposited during
* See the description of this river*
l4 PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION.
three, these lakes would at length be choaked up. It
is, nevertheless, observable, that they diminish insensibly
in depth, and form every year new bays and new banks,
which render the navigation uncertain and difficult.
The lake Barataria, which is insulated and formed
only by the waters of the Mississipi when they are pe-
riodically introduced by the forks of the Chetimacha,
has lost more than a third of its diameter, and at least
half its depth. It is only from this circumstance of the
three months inundation that it remains still a lake, and
that it is not already become a morass.
The bed of those lakes is mud, and the soil which
surrounds them is commonly sandy or marshy ; in com-
paring, therefore, the opposite qualities of the lakes of
the plains and salt lakes, we find that the first are situated
near the sources of rivers, and the latter near their
mouths; that the one serve as reservoirs to rivers, and
the others only as sewers; that the waters of the lakes of
plains are clear and limpid, and that those of salt lakes
are almost always turbid; that the bed of salt lakes is
mud, and the navigation often dangerous v that the bed
of the lakes of plains is either rock or gravel, and the
navigation always safe; upon the whole, that every thing
concurs to the preservation of the one, and the destruc-?
tion of the other.
PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION. U
From the disparity between these two kinds of lakes,
the following consequences result: — That whatever un-
dertakings may he formed to render the salt lakes of
advantage to commerce and home navigation, either hy
means of artificial canals to connect their waters with
those of rivers or the sea, or by other works to counteract
the effect of depots which are daily forming in a greater
or less degree, such enterprises can have only a momentary
success, which will turn sooner or later to the disgrace of
those who shall have formed the plan, and the detriment
of those who furnish the costs; whilst, on the contrary,
if views of public utility were turned towards the lakes
of the plains, by plans well combined and wisely directed,
nothing could prevent the governments which undertake
such enterprises from reaping the most solid advantages,
as well in military as commercial points of view. Some
exceptions may no doubt be made to this general prin-
ciple; but if any such exist, they are rare, and we may
be assured in such instances that, strictly speaking, the
premises are not the same.
No rivers in any part of Europe are of so great an
extent as those in America, where they frequently take
their source in the Cordeleras, and empty their waters
into the Atlantic; and where, excepting the narrow space
which separates the Cordeleras from the Pacific Ocean,
l6 PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION.
they traverse the whole continent from west to east. In
the elevation of these mountains, so superior to that of
the Alleganies, and in their geographical situation, we
must look for the causes of these mighty rivers; since
the prodigious height of these mountains make the land
incline necessarily towards the east. If we have formed
a just idea of the north western coast from the different
descriptions which have been given us,* and the well-
known direction of the Cordeleras, running always
parallel with the coast at the distance of one hundred
and sixty leagues, we may attribute to the same cause
our persuasion, that there can be no great rivers which
throw their waters into the Pacific Ocean, since such
rivers must necessarily pierce through these mountains.
The course of the most extensive rivers on this coast, so
long as their nature remains the same, cannot be more
than the distance which exists between the Cordeleras
and the Pacific Ocean. All those vast openings, therefore,
* In the description which has lately been published in the journals of
Lapeyrouse and Vancouver, this coast is represented as extremely high and
perpendicular, having always a great depth of water, often masked by
groups of great islets well covered with wood, and the land behind these
coasts rising gradually till the horizon is bounded by a long chain of moun-»
tains.
PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION. 1 7
seen along the coast by Lapeyrouse and other celebrated
navigators, and which seem to have left doubts on this
subject, are no other than the entrance of bays, roads,
or ports, formed by the waters of the sea, and sheltered
by the clusters of wooded islands, with which this coast
is lined, and which receive, like all other bays or ports
that are known, rivers of the second order. The river
lately discovered by Mr. Mackenzie, and running north-
west, does not destroy this opinion, because we already
know that it takes its source only in the Yellow Moun-
tain, and that consequently it can have but a very limited
course : we also know that its course is interrupted by
a multitude of rapids, like those of the Slave and Copper-
mine rivers. It must be observed too, that the coast
may, perhaps, change ; and it is even probable, that after
passing the fiftieth degree of latitude, it flattens, and that
the Cordeleras, varying their direction, incline more
towards the east, become less connected, and form groups,
like the Alleganies at Niagara, after passing the forty-third
degree. Upon the whole, we must again repeat that
those rivers running to the west and the north, cannot
have their point of departure more distant than the ele-
vated plain (A), which we have already described as the
divisionary point marked out by nature in North America
for the distribution of its waters, being its most elevated
vol. 1. n
l8 PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION.
spot, and in which plain the rivers necessarily take their
source.
But independently of the consideration that the extent
of these rivers is comparatively limited with that of the
great rivers coming from the west,* the navigation of the
former can never be of any great utility, since it is easy
to foresee that their beds must be intercepted by falls and
rapids, as their waters cannot penetrate to the Pacific
Ocean, without piercing some scattered branches of the
Cordeleras or promontories; in the same manner as the
waters which throw themselves into the Atlantic, from
the Floridas to the river St. Lawrence, are forced to
pierce the Alleganies.
The rivers situated on the west of the Mississipi alone
traverse immense spaces with uninterrupted course, their
waters having none of the great obstacles of nature to
encounter; since on the one side they escape from the
Cordeleras, and, by throwing themselves into the gulf
of Mexico, avoid on the other the Alleganies, which, as
* From While Bear Lake, where the Mississipi takes its source, to the
mouth of this river, is four thousand miles, taking in all its bendings. The
Missouri throws itself into the Mississipi at about two thousand miles distance
from the mouths of this river, and two thousand five hundred miles have
already been explored without meeting either falls or rapids; which makes
four thousand five hundred miles already known.
PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION. 1 O
we have already observed, have here ceased following
the coast, to form the chain of the Antilles.
The difference which is observable between the rivers
coming from the west, the waters of which empty them-
selves into the gulf of Mexico; and those which in North
America throw themselves into the Atlantic, in which
there are neither falls nor rapids,* whilst the streams to
the east of the Mississipi are filled with both : the immense
plain which these waters traverse without any other ob-
stacles than secondary mountains or hills, which they
perforate or divide, and of which they are continually
diminishing the mass: the soil of sand or clay, which
they alternately wash and dissolve ; the rapidity of their
currents, compared with that of the rivers on the east,
interrupted either by falls or rapids; the wrecks of sand,
mud, and wood, which the western floods precipitate
towards the sea in the season of their inundations, which
are so extended and so frequent: the quantity of alluvions^
* As these rivers are interrupted by neither falls nor rapids, except
towards their sources, they have very swift currents; notwithstanding this
favorable circumstance for the speedy emptying of the waters in the season of
inundations, they rise in some places an hundred feet; what would be the
effect if these rivers were as smooth as those of the east?
§ In no other part are alluvions found so considerable and frequent as
thpse^ which are formed by the rivers of the east. At the mouths of the
D 2
PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION.
that are found at the mouth of all these great rivers, which
are the result of depots accumulated every year towards
the gulf, and thereby diminishing its basin: the salt lakes
which are imperceptibly filling up, the void of which, left
by the waters, is successively changed into morass, and
afterwards into solid ground; the Allegany mountains, in
short, which, instead of following the turn of the coast,
suddenly break off to gain the point of the Floridas: all
these circumstances combined are well calculated to excite
Mississipi and the Amazons there are some which extend from thirty to forty
leagues. The reason is, that these rivers traverse a much greater sjjace lhan
any in Europe. In the rapidity of their course they wash away and dissolve
different substances. These wrecks are carried down from one river to
another, till they reach the sea. The heavy, sandy, and mineral parts sink
to llie bottom; but the calcarious and argillaceous earths mingling with the
waters in their current, detach themselves as soon as the river becomes more
tranquil, sometimes on one side, sometimes on the other, and form an alluvion,
a bank, or an island, composed at first only of thick and moving parlicles •*
but after a certain time, these alluvions, by the action of the sun, acquire
consistency and solidity. Each inundation adds a new layer, till the alluvions
attain such an elevation that the waters can no longer reach them. Plants,
aud at length trees, spread themselves over these new lands, where they grow
and perish ; and their destruction forms a vegetable crust upon the surface,
of a richness and fertility unknown in the old world.
* See the description of these quicksands in the chapter on the Missouri.
PRELIMINARY DESCRIPTION. 21
doubts respecting the system so often published, but never
clearly proved, that " the Antilles formerly made part of
" the continent of America,'1 and leave room, on the
contrary, to conjecture that they may be tending to form
that junction. The same doubts are applicable to the
islands in the Southern Ocean, which may also become
the foundations of other new continents. But I shall not
here attempt the examination of the first of these ques-
tions, which is worthy of fixing the attention of the most
celebrated geologists ; my abode also in the Antilles during
most stormy periods of the revolution, was too short to
have admitted of such investigation. It is not in the midst
of poignards that objects of this nature become fit subjects
of meditation.*
* I was governor at Guadaloupe in 1793 and 1794, without money,
without marine, without soldiers, and without laws.
7*23 )
CHAPTER I.
Departure from Philadelphia. — Military and Topographical
Description of the Alleganies. — Defiles or Gaps. — Observation
on the Insurrection of 1794.
ON the twenty-first of March, 1796, Adjutant-General
Warin and myself left Philadelphia. After fourteen days
march, and halting twice, we reached a new establish-
ment called M'Kees's Port, situated on the Monongahela.
Several reasons decided us to take this route in preference
to the road which leads directly by Pittsburgh. We
Were desirous of acquiring a detailed knowledge of the
river Monongahela, which we considered as one of the
sources of the Ohio 5 and we had been informed in our
route, that we should find no boat at Pittsburgh lit for
our voyage, since it is only on the Monongahela that they
are built; and also that we should much more easily equip
ourselves on this river than on any other. We had reason
WEST
24 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RTVERS
to be satisfied with this information, which if we had
not followed, we should have been greatly retarded, and
our expenses increased a third.
The road which leads from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh
is too well known to render any long details necessary.
The Alleganies alone excited our attention, as they are
destined, at some future period, to become the limits of
the western states, and those of the Atlantic.
The Alleganies, properly so called, are formed of
many chains of mountains running parallel to each other,
nearly from north east to south west, and are divided
into secondary and primitive mountains. The secondary
are the first which present themselves to the eye of the
traveller, in coming from the coast ; the distance of these
mountains from the sea is from one hundred and sixty to
one hundred and eighty and two hundred miles, but never
more. This space of ground is called flat or plain, and
forms, as it were, the glacis of the secondary mountains,
extending as far as the ocean.
These mountains are composed of three principal and
distinct ranges, running each in the same direction, and
always parallel to each other at greater or less distances;
leaving in their intervals small vallies, the most extensive
of which is not more than eight or ten miles broad, and
the narrowest from three to four. The denomination of
OP NORTH AMERICA. ab
these mountains changes according to the States which they
traverse. The two first ranges are not very lofty; the
third is more elevated, but sinks often beneath the soil,
and becomes again perceptible in North Carolina towards
the thirty-fifth degree of latitude, where it is known
under the name of the Blue Ridge. The secondary
mountains are generally granitous, at least from Niagara
to the Floridas.
The most remarkable of the different vallies which
form these ranges is the third, that of Shenandoah; it takes
its rise at Hudson's River, and is found the same in
Georgia and the Floridas. This valley separates the
secondary from the primitive mountains, and a part is
watered by the river Shenandoah, which throws itself
into the Potomac a little below Shepherd's-town. Its
average breadth may be about twenty miles.
After crossing those different lines of vallies, and se-
condary mountains, we reached the primitive mountains
or principal chain o.f that part of North America; this
chain consists of different parallel ranges, called the
Apalachian or Allegany mountains.
The first range of the Alleganies is called Northern or
Blue Mountains; it is divided into different branches; in
the west it is known under the name of Apalachian, in
the north by that of Allegany.
VOL. I. B
26 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
The Alleganies, properly so called, are covered with
a kind of grindstone, which is found upon the Ohio, and
as far as the country of the Illinois; this is the loftiest
chain; several rivers spring from its sides, and it is the
only chain that is not pierced by any river.
Next to the Alleganies are three other distinct ranges
of less elevation; these are Fidelings Hill, Laurel Hills,
and Chesnut Ridge; this is the last range on .the western
side, and makes part of the primitive mountains. The
distance from this mountain to the Ohio is only forty or
forty-five miles ; it is also at this point that the great
division of the waters takes place, which run into the
gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic Ocean; this mountain is
nevertheless pierced by a few great rivers, which take
their source in the Alleganies.
After passing this last range, the nature of the soil
evidently changes; it becomes more loamy, browner,
less gravelly, and the vegetation is stronger than on the
eastern side.
Independently of these mountains, there are vast ele-
vated plains. One of considerable extent lies on the north
of the whole range of these mountains, which takes up
the interval between the sources of the Mohawk river
and the Niagara ; its direction is to the west.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 27
From this elevated plain spring the Allegany, Susque-
hannah, and Mohawk rivers, whilst it divides the waters
of these different rivers from those that run into the lakes
Erie and Ontario. In this region the mountains entirely
disappear, and are perceptible only on the other side of
the Niagara.
As the greater part of the large rivers which traverse
the Atlantic States, take their source in the primitive
mountains, and run almost all from north-west to south-
east, they are forced to pierce the secondary mountains
at right angles, which forms scissures or defiles, called
gaps. In the state of Pennsylvania there are three of
these gaps, through which every thing passes which
comes from the east and the centre, to reach the States
in the west. The first is the most northerly at Cassady,
on the Frankstown, (a branch of Juniata river) where all
the roads meet that lead from Northumberland to the
carrying-place at the sources of the Conomaugh river,
the waters of which throw themselves into those of the
Allegany, and from thence into the Ohio. The second
is at Yellow Creek, through which lies the road which
leads from Huntingdon to Bedford. The third is at
Hartley's, at the passage made by the Juniata, and a little
behind the point where meet all the roads coming from
38 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
the lower part of Pennsylvania, and which afterwards
form only one great road as far as Bedford.
There is indeed a fourth, but this is situated at Cum-
berland, in the Potomac, very near the frontier line of
Pennsylvania, and serves to convey whatever comes from
Maryland and Virginia. These four defiles are, as we
have already observed, breaches made by the waters,
which" have opened to themselves passages across the
secondary mountains. The largest of these defiles is not
more than one hundred and twenty fathoms from the
foot of one cliff to another, comprehending the breadth
of the river.*
The spaces between these defiles, from Cassady, on
the left of this position, to Cumberland, on the right,
are, during the length of sixty miles, crossed by no road ;
nor is it possible to construct any before an enemy, on
account of the steepness of the mountains, and the masses
of rocks with which they are covered. In order to cross
the Alleganies with any other troops than light infantry,
these defiles must be forced.
Had the chiefs of the insurrection in 1794 been sol-
diers, or had they possessed any military knowledge of
these mountains, they might, with the troops under their
* See the Chart of the Oliio.
OP NORTH AMERICA.
n
orders,* have blocked up the passage of the Alleganies
against the federal army, by seizing on these defiles, and
stationing their principal force at Bedford. Pittsburgh
became naturally their place of depot ; by this manoeuvre
they might for a long while have assured their subsistance ;
perhaps determined the inhabitants between the Allega-
nies and the Susquehannah to take an active part in their
resistance, and have embarrassed, for a considerable time,
the federalists. Happily, this insurrection, which, had
it been prolonged, would probably have caused an unne-
cessary effusion of blood, was speedily terminated ; and
I consider it as my duty to add, that from all the infor-
mation which I could obtain during three weeks residence
in this country, which was the real theatre of the insur-
rection, I am persuaded that the Minister Fauchet had
no concern whatever in these disturbances; although the
enemies of France have been eager to throw on him an
ample share of blame.
* They had more than eight thousand men at their disposal, all excellent
light infantry.
( 3i )
CHAPTER II.
Monongahela. — New establishments formed on that river. — Kind
of boat used in going down the Ohio. — Proportion of boats
with keels. — Price of lands. — Allegany river.
1 HE Monongahela is in general bordered by mountains
of considerable height, leaving so narrow a space along
the banks of the river, that during its whole course, there
is very little of what is called flat, or low ground, fit for
pasture. As these mountains are almost perpendicular,
it will be long before any attempts are made to clear
them ; since it is only at their extremities, their base and
their summit, that they are inhabited or cultivated. The
quality of the low lands is good, though light and sandy;
but they cannot be considered as lands of the first class,
the vegetable earth being but six inches in depth, spread
over a pure yellow sand. The layer of earth in the high
M SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
lands is not three inches in depth; the soil is also extremely
light; and from the mode in which it is cultivated hy the
Americans, this land will be exhausted in twenty years.
The most common trees are the oak, the chesnut, and
the maple; they present nothing extraordinary either in
size or elevation. The breadth of the Monongahela is
from six hundred to six hundred and fifty feet ; the river
runs over a bed of yellow sand, mixed with an earth of
nearly the same color, which renders it generally turbid.
• Its current is slow and gentle, carrying a boat without
sails or oars about a mile and an half an hour; it is easy
of ascent, and is navigable above a new establishment,
called New Geneva, nearly eighty miles from Pittsburg :
this space is uninterrupted either by cataracts, falls, or
rapids.
The banks of the Monongahela are almost every
where inhabited: there are six establishments which bear
the name of towns or ports; New Geneva, Frederic' s-
town, and Read's-stone, have two hundred inhabitants;
Elizabeth's-town contains twenty, M'Kees-port thirty,
and Perry's-town fifteen.
On the banks of this river is built the greater part of
flat-bottomed boats which convey the emigrants to Ken-
tucky, and also the boats with keels for the Mississipi ;
the first, called Kentucky boats, have the form of a great
OF NORTH AMERICA. OJ
oblong, varying in its proportions from thirty to fifty
feet in length, and from twelve to twenty in width, but
never less than four in depth. These boats are con-
structed without nails, which renders them very dangerous
for the Mississipi, in which great numbers perish by the
damage which they receive from the least shock, either
against rocks, or great trees with which this river is
sometimes choked, as well as by the difficulty of steering.
The most convenient size for boats with keels destined
for New Orleans is from forty to forty-five feet long,
twelve broad, and four deep; they ought to be strongly
built j that is, to have their ribs very close to each other,
and the helm of the same form as that of ordinary vessels.
The great oar placed at the stern, with which the Ame-
ricans govern the boat, is extremely dangerous, from the
difficulty of making it change its direction with sufficient
speed to avoid the great trees and trunks that frequently
obstruct the passage, and on which, without great pre-
cautions, the boats are driven by the stream.
The ordinary price of these boats is a dollar and
a half per foot, including the three oars, two of which
serve for rowing, and the other for the helm.
Travellers who have the intention of visiting this part
of the continent cannot be too strongly recommended to
go to one of the ports of the Monongahela, and not to
vol. i? p
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
except at exorbitant prices, and an incalculable loss of
time. There are two roads, the lower and upper road;
after passing Bedford you meet with the upper road,
known in the country under the name of the high road;
this road is the best, and as it crosses the most inhabited
part of the mountains, forage is more easily procured
for the horses j but it is about ten miles longer than the
other.
Travellers should endeavour if possible to reach the
Monongahela before the end of June; because it may
happen after this period that there is not sufficient water
for the navigation during several weeks ; this scarcity of
water is, however, rare, and there is always enough for
a boat without lading.
The lands on the Monongahela, when somewhat
cleared and with a log-house, are worth about four or
five pounds the acre; that is, from two pounds to two
pounds ten shillings sterling. The general aspect of the
country is healthy; there are no stagnant waters or mo-
rasses, and though fevers have been prevalent at M'Kees
port, they are considered as merely accidental, or as the
consequence of new clearings. It is generally remarked
throughout almost every part of the continent, that the
three first years after new establishments are almost
OF NORTH AMERICA. bi>
always feverish ;* but when once the lands have been
heated by the sun, and the air purified from the moist
and noxious particles by which it is vitiated, these spots
become as healthy as old establishments; this is the affair
of time and circumstances, and no way depends on
climate, at least in the northern, eastern, and western
States.
Thick fogs arise every morning upon the Monongahela,
and which, greater in summer than at any other season,
appear to augment in the same proportion with the heat.
These fogs are not unwholesome ; they seem rather an
emanation of the plants and flowers which decorate the
banks of the river, than an effect of the water ; and
the scent exhaled from them, far from being disagreeable,
is aromatic and odorous. A short time after the sun has
risen and acquired some force, these fogs ascend, and
detach themselves from the surface of the water; but the
influence of the sun preventing them from attaining any
great elevation, they hang suspended some hours over
the bed of the river, and in the direction of its course.
At the hour of ten or eleven in the morning, the fogs
* The new lands, composed of pntrid vegetable substances, and
loaded wilh febrile particles and noxious vapors, are the general causes of
maladies to new settlers.
F 2
00 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
evaporate, but without producing rain, or any unhealthy
damps, and are considered as the sign of great summer
heats.
The Allegany river, like the Monongahela, is bordered
by mountains, with a narrow strip of land on its banks ;
its current is more rapid, and its waters shallower and
clearer. This river has frequent falls, which renders its
ascent difficult: with a slight increase of water, it is
navigable as far as Venango for boats of about four or
five thousand weight. Venango is situated at the mouth
of French Creek, where the river is still two hundred
fathom in breadth, and is practicable even as far as
le Boeuf; from whence is a carrying place of fifteen
miles, which leads to the peninsula on the lake Erie.
Its banks are in general thinly inhabited, because the
Six Nations have hitherto been almost constantly at war
with the Americans, and these tribes are masters of the
whole course of the river. Since the peace has been
signed, they appear to be more tractable, and are forming
new establishments : boats are built on this river, but in
small numbers! The quality of the soil on its banks, and
the species of trees, are precisely the same as on the Mo-
nongahela.
OP NORTH AMERICA. OJ
CHAPTER III.
Pittsburgh. — Coal mine. — Carriage. — Forges. — Fort Duquesne. —
Fort La Fayette. — Military positioji.
1 ITTSBURG, formerly called Fort Duquesne, con-
structed by the French when they were masters of
Canada, is situated on a slip of land which separates
the waters of the Alleganies and those of the Monon-
gahela. At this point the Ohio takes its source and its
name.
This town contains, at the utmost, one hundred and
fifty houses, some of which are built of brick, and the
rest of wood. The neighbourhood of the Indians and
the difficult communication between this town, Phila-
delphia, and Baltimore, appear to be the principal causes
which have hitherto prevented its increase. Placed at
the source of one of the noblest rivers in the world,
58 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
navigable as far as the ocean, after flowing eleven
hundred miles, through the finest and most beautiful
countries on the surface of the globe; this town, when
the Indian frontier is thrown back,* and the roads are
rendered practicable, will certainly become one of the
first inland cities of the United States.
The general aspect of the country is delightful ; two
chains of festooned mountains line the opposite banks
of the river of the Alleganies, and that of the Mononga-
hela, stretching towards those of the Ohio. If at their
junction the Allegany rivrer did not form an acute angle,
which, by its projection, intercepts the magnificent pros-
pective of the Ohio, the situation of Pittsburgh at this
spot would perhaps be one of the most pictoresque on
the continent.
A rich vein of coal is found on the summit of one of
the mountains which bounds the Ohio on the left.. The
quality of this coal is equal to the best kind in England ;
the mine is open, and the coal so cheap, and forming such
excellent fuel, that although the inhabitants live in the
midst of forests, they prefer it to their best wood. It
costs less than four-pence sterling a bushel.
* Tills lias now taken place in consequence of the 'treaty made between
the Indians and General Waine, in 1797.
OP NORTH AMERICA. 3o,
It is remarkable, that notwithstanding the difficulty
and high price of the carriage of merchandise, this town
has made little effort to establish manufactures, even for
articles of the first necessity; these are still drawn from
Philadelphia or Baltimore, and obtained at exorbitant
prices.
The carriage of an hundred weight from Philadelphia
to Baltimore is from eight to ten dollars, and from Bal-
timore seven or eight ; notwithstanding this difference,
two waggons come from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh against
one from Baltimore.
A few iron mines have lately been worked on the
Monongahela, where coppers, cauldrons, country ovens,
pots, and other utensils of the like kind, are cast; the
price of which is from forty-three to forty-five pounds
per cwt. Pennsylvania currency ; making from one hun-
dred and fourteen to one hundred and twenty dollars.
No traces remain of the old fort Duquesne, built for-
merly on the most advanced point of the slip of land
which divides the Allegany river from the Monongahela,
and on which the town of Pittsburgh is situated. The
whole has been destroyed by time and the floods.
During the war of 1766, the English constructed
another fort, called Fort Pitt, a little behind the former,
and of which the traces are yet seen. It is a regular
4o SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
pentagon, the parapets of which now fill up the ditches,
without palisadoes, and open on every side.
The.Americans, less skilled than most other nations in
military affairs, have huilt a'Ww fort on the left of the
Alleganics, at a thousand yards distance from the back of
the town, in a marshy situation, much below the level
of the town. This fort is commanded at two hundred
yards distance by a small ridge of heights, from whence
the men may be seen from head to feet ; it is called
Fort La Fayette. ''
The reasons which determined Major Craig, who was
the planner of this work, to build it in this spot were,
that the Indians of the Six Nations, with whom the Ame-
ricans were then at war, occupied a part of the Allegany
river, which is situated on the right of the town, and
that it was therefore necessary to place the fort on the
right, and as near as possible to the town, which was
punctually executed. He did not reflect, that if, by
chance, the Indians should contrive to land two miles
above the fort, on the left of the Allegany, and take pos-
session of the heights, by which manoeuvre they could
reach the foot of the town without being seen, they might
kill the inhabitants, and burn the place, before any in-
telligence could reach the spot, or a cannon or musket
be fired.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 4j
(f
Fort La Fayette is merely a square with four bastions,
on the platforms of which are erected-block houses or
barracks. In each of these block-houses is an embrasure
on the side next the country, on which are placed pieces
ofcannon; on that which looks towards the town a small
powder magazine is built, covered only with planks. Pali-
sadoes from ten to eleven feet, placed on a kind of parapet,
which is only three feet in height, including the depth of
the ditch already half filled up, surround this fort, and give
it the form of a bullock-pen. In a dark night four gre-
nadiers, with a dozen faggots of dry wood, might burn
the fort and all the garrison, and not a single individual
escape^y
Eight hundred yards behind the town, is a ridge formed
by a continued line of protuberances more or less con-
nected with each other, and making opposite angles.
This chain begins at the Monongahela, and runs parallel
with the Allegany, at the distance of about six hundred
yards from this river ; it finishes at a small eminence
forming a sort of sugar loaf, and which terminates this
position.
This ground might contain ten thousand men ; and three
of these little protuberances, which are the most distinctly
marked on the chart, would, if fortified, render this a
strong position 5 the first is on the Monongahela, covering
VOL. I.
42 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
the left of the post; the second is directly behind the
town, and commands the] Monongahela, the Allegany,
and the whole city, at the distance of only two hundred
yards; the third is on the right of the position, which
entirely flanks the slope of the mountain on the right of
the Allegany in front, and projecting a little more than
the others, commands the whole left of the line.
This position would not be tenable against an army
advancing on the side of Pennsylvania, because it might
be turned and is commanded on all sides. In such a
circumstance, therefore, it would be necessary to aban-
don this situation , and take post on the other side of
the Monongahela, where, on the left bank, an excellent
position may be found.
At this spot the boat waited for me which I had pur-
chased at Mc.Kees port. I hired two Canadians and three
Americans for the whole time my journey should last,
paying ten piastres a month to each rower, and fifteen
piastres a month to the pilot; on the condition that upon
my arrival at New Orleans I should send back the Ame-
ricans to New York or Philadelphia, and the Canadians
to the Illinois, their respective countries, at my own
expense.
At the moment of my departure, a young man pre-
sented himself, and asked me to give him a passage as far
OF NORTH AMERICA. 45
as Cumberland river/ observing that he had no money to
offer me. I complied with his request, on condition that
he would take an oar and work for his passage and
maintenance. He answered drily, that he only worked
for himself and never for any other manj that he had
lost his way four months since when hunting, and that
he would contrive to return as he came. I mention this
slight incident because I shall afterwards have occasion
to speak more particularly of this man.
* The distance from Pittsburgh to the Cumberland river by the Ohio,
nine hundred and fifty-three miles.
( 45 )
CHAPTER IV.
Sources of the Ohio. — Hamilton Island. — Seven Mile Island.-^-
Dangerous passage. — Popular opinion. — Legion' s-town. — Crow
Island. — Great Beaver Creek. — Grant Island. — Little Beaver
Creek. — Yellow Creek. — Black Islands. — Judah Campbell. —
Brown's Island. — Mingo's Bottom. — Henderson Island. — Mingo
Town. — Buffalo Town. — Carpenter's Station. — ShortCreek. —
Weeling. — Hurricane.
ON the sixth of June, 1794, we began the survey of the
Ohio.
The Ohio is formed bjr the junction of the Monon-
gahela* and the Allegany,^ in latitude thirty-six, and
longitude forty-five, at nearly one thousand and ten miles
* The meaning of Monongahela in the language of the Indians is " muddy
water."
§ Allegany in the Indian language signifies " clear or limpid river."
46 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
from the point where it empties itself into the Mississipi.
The bed of the Ohio at the place where it takes this
name, is very narrow, being scarcely two hundred fathom
broad. The same chain of mountains which borders the
Monongahela continues along the left bank of the Ohio;
the foot of this chain is bathed by the waters of the
Beautiful river, and appears like a wall raised by nature
on that side, to prevent its wandering from its course
On the right side, but at the distance of one and some-
times of two miles, the chain of mountains that rises
from the river Allegany, bounds the horizon. A fertile
plain extends from the foot of those mountains to the
banks of the river.
At a mile from Pittsburgh is Hamilton Island, which
we left on the right, at the distance of a mile and a half.
This island is low, and partly covered with water when
the river rises. In this place the soundings are from
five to five feet and an half.* The swiftness alone of
the current carries boats two miles and three quarters
an hour without the aid of oars or sails.
After having passed Hamilton Island, the mountains
on the left side fall back a mile from the river. The soil
* The whole of the soundings were taken at a time when the waters
Were at the lowest.
OP NORTH AMERICA. ^J
of this small plain is of a yellowish color and of a mid-
dling quality.
Whilst the mountains on the left side fall back, those
on the right which followed at some distance the course
of the river, close in ; and their sides, pointed with rocks,
hang over the Ohio, which in this place is only three
hundred fathoms broad. The depth of water is six feet.
About three miles lower than the head of Hamilton
Island, and after passing on the left three small islands
and Chartier's Creek, which takes its source near the little
town of Washington, we reached Seven Mile or Longlsland,
which, notwithstanding its name, is only six miles in length.
The chain of mountains on the right forms the bank of
the river; that on the left approaches it nearly. The
soil of this island is poor, and the ground low, but
not subject to be overflowed in the season of inundations.
We leave the island on the left, and take the channel on
the right, where there is depth of water from four to
six feet. The left side is impracticable.
A mile below the head of Long Island is a little fall,
which is avoided by keeping within thirty fathoms from
the right bank, where there is a channel four or five feet
deep, on a gravelly bottom.
At the extremity of Long Island is another rapid full of
rocks : this is one of the dangerous passages of the Ohio,
48 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
on account of the difficulty of keeping the channel. The
vessel should be directed upon the point of the island,
which must be doubled, keeping as close as possible, and
immediately after having passed it the boat must be pushed
to the left of the river, within twenty-five fathoms of the
bank. Without this manoeuvre, which requires much
precision, the boat would be thrown on a bank of gravel
or rock that bars the river, and from which it would be
very difficult to get off. This channel, which is from
four to four feet and an half in depth, contains so great
a quantity of fish called perch,* that it is commonly
reported they occasion the noise made by the water.
Having touched on a bank of gravel in passing the chan-
nel, our boat crushed one of those fish. We were told
that the noise of these perch prognosticates rain. It is
unnecessary to make any comment on the folly of these
popular stories.
After passing the island and clearing the rapid, you
observe the mountains falling back from the banks, and
leaving, between the river and their base, low lands of
a bad quality. But at a very little distance from thence,
the chain of mountains on the left resumes abruptly its
* This fish is of the size of a large carp of the Rhine ; its flesh is white
and well iasled, but it is altogether unlike the perch of Europe,
OF NORTH AMERICA. 4<->
first position, while that on the right continues to fall
back.
Four miles below Long Island, we leave a small and very
low island on the left. The channel on the right is four
or five feet deep. We observed that the river here begins
to grow wider, and two miles below the small island
makes a bend towards the north. The navigation is on the
left side, where there is six feet of water. The moun-
tains during this passage retreat, and leave a valley,
the low and fertile lands of which are watered by the
Ohio.
Measuring from the bend of the river, we proceeded
five miles without meeting with any obstacle, till we
reached Legions-town, the former head-quarters of Ge-
neral Waine, when he was sent against the Miamis in
1795. On this spot we observed fallen huts, the remains
of an old camp ; on the opposite side is a neat farm called
Hill's farm.
After passing Legions-town, and sailing down a mile,
we reached Crow Island, which lies on the left, and is a
mile in length. The mountains on the right side fall
farther back, whilst those on the left hang over the river,
which in this place is six feet deep.
Four miles below the head of Crow Island is Great
Beaver Creek: the land on each side is light. Great
5o SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
Beaver Creek is scarcely fifty fathoms broad at its mouth ;
a fall three miles above prevents any further navigation.
On the banks of this creek, and on an elevated plain
formed by the mountains on the right side of the Ohio,
the foundations of a small town are lately laid, called
Beaver-town, composed as yet of only four or five houses.
On the opposite bank to Beavers-town lies a neat farm
called Kerr. The soundings at the. mouth of Beaver
Creek gave eight, twejve, and thirteen feet of water.
After Beaver-town, the river continues running in
its bed without any obstacle: the water is from ten to
twelve feet deep, and the soil on either side light.
At the distance of about five miles from Great Beaver
Creek, we leave two small low islands on the right. The
depth of water in the channel is six feet. Here the two
chains of mountains join, and hem in the river. This is
the most northern point of the Ohio.
At the distance of about two miles is another island,
called Grant's Island, which you leave on the left, keeping to
the right. The current here is extremely rapid, and the
depth of water in the channel from twelve to fifteen feet;
the land is poor, stony, and rocky.
Three miles below Grant's Island, we passed ano-
ther small island on the right, opposite which is a
little town, called Bird's-town, where there are two or
OF NORTH AMERICA. 5l
three huts. The river grows wider, and the mountains
open, leaving on each side a large stretch of low lands.
Three miles below this last island, on the right, is
little Beaver Creek, which is no more than twenty-five
fathoms broad at its mouth, and'is navigable only for two
miles. The lands of Little Beaver Creek are lower, and
of a better quality than those of the Great Beaver, which
are high and stony.
After passing Little Beaver Creek, we found an as-
semblage of four or five log-houses, called Little Beaver-
town ; opposite which, we left on the right Beaver Creek
Island. The depth of the water is every where from
fifteen to seventeen feet; the bottom is gravel, and the
land of a middling quality.
Here is the line of separation between the States of Penn-
sylvania and Virginia : this line runs north and south.
Five miles below Little Beaver Creek we left again, on
the right, another small island that has no name. This
island greatly narrows the channel of the river which
winds for five miles ; at the end of its course we perceived
two small islands, the names of which are also unknown :
leaving these on the left, we reached Yellow Creek on the
right, three miles below the head of the first island.
Yellow Creek is at its entrance from fifteen to twenty
fathoms broad, but grows wider half a mile up ; it rolls
h 2
&2 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
over a bed of rocks, and is navigable only two miles for
skin's, on account of the great number of falls.
This creek no doubt takes its name from the yellow
soil on its banks ; there are two or three houses on this
spot, and two or three *acres cleared. The soil is of a
light quality, and the vegetable mold in the lower lands
not more than a foot in depth.
After passing Yellow Creek, where the river makes a
bend of a mile towards the south, is the first of the four
islands called Black Islands, distant from each other a
mile or a mile and a half: they extend about five miles.
The chain of heights on the left for two miles closes on the
river ; but that on the right falls back and leaves a large
extent of low land, which is well inhabited.
The navigation in general is unvaried from Pittsburgh
to the Black Islands, and the country presents nothing
interesting to the eye; the lands are poor, and the wood
of an inferior quality. Three miles below the last of
the islands called Black Islands, and on the left side, lies
a fine plantation, called Judah Campbell.
The chain of mountains 6n the left bank closing con-
tinually upon the river, and those on the right widening
off, the space between is a stretch of low land, the richest
we had descried since we left Pittsburgh. The wood is
of large dimension, and of an excellent kind, and the
OF NORTH AMERICA. 53
vegetable layer two feet, and of a chocolate color, which
is an indication of its fine quality ; the depth of water
twelve feet, and the navigation good and without any
impediment. Two miles below Judah Campbell, we
leave King's Creek on the left, and half a mile lower
Brown's Islands on the right ; the channel is on the
left, but these islands must not be approached too nearly
on that side, there being shoals near, and rocks along the
bank. In the mid channel is eight or nine feet water.
When you have doubled Brown's Islands, the two chains
of mountains close in on the river; there are no more low
lands, and the chain, sinking on the left, forms a terrace
of great extent, the soil of which is of the first quality,
the layer of vegetable earth being from four to five feet-
Some miles lower, this chain of mountains rises a little
on the left, and approaches the borders of the river; that
on the right falls back, and leaves a great extent of low
grounds. The country is well inhabited..
Five miles from Brown's Island, and on the left bank,
are the first houses of a very neat settlement called Mingo's
Bottom. The water is here six feet deep, the navigation
good, and without any obstacle. Three miles further,
we reached Henderson's Island on the left. Low rich
lands, almost all inhabited, lie on both sides the river.
The island is merely a bank of gravel, on which grow a
04: SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
few shrubs ; the channel is on the right, and gives five or
six feet of water : the soil here is less rich, and on a bed
of gravel.
Opposite Henderson's Island, and on the right side, are
several small huts close to each other, and built on a low
land of great extent and entirely open : this place is called
Mingo's Town. From thence to Pittsburgh, crossing the
country in a right line due east, is a distance of no more
than thirty or thirty-one miles; whilst, in following the
course of the river, you travel seventy : a road for horse
and foot is already made. (See the map of the Ohio.)
At Mingo's Town, all the difficulties of the naviga-
tion of the Ohio are considered as vanquished ; because
from this place to the mouth of the river, there is water
enough for boats of one hundred and fifty to two
hundred tons, seventy or eighty feet long, from fifteen to
eighteen feet broad, and four feet deep, drawing from
two to three feet of water. Mingo's Town may therefore
be looked upon as the primitive point of the great navi-
gation on the Ohio j and it is therefore probable that this
place will become as considerable as its inhabitants pre-
sume, and will acquire the whole trade, which now
belongs exclusively to Pittsburgh.
Three miles beyond Mingo's Town, on the left, is the
little town of Buffalo, composed of twenty-eight or thirty
OF NORTH AMERICA. 55
houses, some of which are huilt with hrick and wood-
work. This town is situated at the mouth of Buffalo
Creek, and on a beautiful platform, the environs of which
are already well cleared. , This is the most considerable
place in the road from Pittsburgh, and furnishes enter-
tainment for travellers : there are already two stores or
warehouses well supplied. Buffalo Town communicates
also with Pittsburgh by land ; the distance is computed
about thirty-five or thirty-six miles ; the depth of water
opposite Buffalo Town is from seventeen to eighteen feet.
Five miles and an half below Buffalo Creek lies Car-
penter's Station, an assemblage of three or four huts built
on a low ground of a very good quality. Here the river
begins to assume an air of greatness aud majesty.
Four miles below Carpenter's Station, two currents
of water flow opposite to each other ; that on the right
is Short's Creek, which is large, deep, and naviga-
ble for two miles inland j the other is only a rivulet,
and is dry during the summer. In this place, and espe-
cially on the right side, and along Short's Creek, the lands
are of the finest quality ; the vegetable earth is from ten
to twelve foot^eep ; the white oak, the maple tree, and
the sweet chesnut tree, are abundant : the depth of the
water as far as Short's Creek is every where twelve feet,
and seven opposite its mouth.
56 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
A mile below Short's Creek, we passed three successive
islands which extend four miles: the first is called First
Island; the second, Middle Island; the third, Gland's
Island : both passes are equally good. In taking the chan-
nel on the right, the mariner must be careful not to ap-
proach too near the islands, which are surrounded with
shoals a foot and half and two feet only below water j by
keeping a little on the right side about two hundred fathom
from the bank, six, seven, and eight feet of water are
found on a sandy bottom. During this space of five miles,
you leave on the right a fine stretch of land called Mc.Co-
luli Grant's Flat : On this plain there are at least fifteen
habitations close to each other; and a mile and an half
lower than the last island lies the little town of Weeling.
It was our usual practice to take the skiff to visit the
interior of the country, and order our mariners to go
gently down the Ohio till we rejoined the boat. We
were busy with our survey, when the menace of an
approaching storm determined us to regain our large boat
with all expedition. The weather had been heavy, and
so hot that the thermometer of Reamur was at the
twenty-ninth degree. Although the air was perfectly
calm, the river was swollen with those heavy waves
which rise in the middle, and sink away without reach-
ing the banks, and which are known by sailors under the
OF NORTH AMERICA. 5y
name of houls. The Canadians from those signs had
forewarned us since the morning of a storm. A thick
whitish cloud, bordered with a kind of white and black
stripe, now hovered over our heads. We reached the
boat, which we found moored to a great tree near the bank ;
we blamed the imprudence of our boatmen, since nothing
is more common in these storms than the overthrow of
trees, and the falling-in of the earth which separates them
from the river, and consequently the loss of the boat, which
is crushed to pieces.
But however dangerous our position, there was no time
for change. The cloud had already burst, the sky grew
dark as night, and it was only four o'clock; the wind
began to blow most impetuously, and the thunder rolled
with a noise unknown in Europe, and which till now
I had never heard. The waters of the river, raised by
the force of the wind more than three feet from their bed,
overflowed both banks. A dreadful rain fell with incre-
dible violence, and forced by the impetuosity of the wind,
scattered itself often in vapor before it reached the earth.
The trees were torn up by the roots, broken, and carried
away; the thick darkness, which hindered us from dis-
tinguishing the nearest objects, was continually inter-
rupted by vivid flashes of lightning, mingling themselves
with the bursts of this terrible thunder, which the echoes
58 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
of the forests on the banks of the river repeated in dole-
ful and tremendous sounds.
However dangerous our situation, our eyes were not
the less fixed on this awful and sublime spectacle; when,
at the same instant a most violent crash drove us from the
strange situation we had taken: the lightning, falling on the
tree to which we were moored, rent it, cut the cord
which fastened us, and gave up our boat to the mercy of
the winds and waves, which carried it away with such
violence that in two minutes we were blown almost out of
the water, and thrown on the opposite side, having more
than half the boat wrecked on the bank. The rapidity of
this frightful succession of events preserved us from the
apprehensions which the calculation of the dangers with
which we were surrounded would have excited. No one
placed himself at the helm, nor was it possible to direct
the vessel : we should, therefore, according to all proba-
bility, have foundered, or have been dashed against the
rocks or the high banks, had not chance, or rather the
direction of the wind, served us better than the skill of
the most experienced pilot, by throwing us on a soft and
sandy point, which did very little damage to our boat.
This hurricane lasted seven minutes in its greatest
violence, overthrowing every thing it met with on its
passage : its direction was from south to north-east.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 69
Notwithstanding its short duration, the rain fell so abun-
dantly that our boat had thirteen inches of water. At
length this tremendous shock was succeeded by the deepest
silence of nature, and a light breeze cooled the atmosphere.
We availed ourselves of these circumstances, to examine
and repair our disasters.
On the following day, Mr. Warin and myself took
a survey of the ground over which the hurricane had
passed: we found every thing levelled for the breadth of
about a quarter of a mile ; no tree except the white oak
remained standing, and its leaves were already of a brown
yellow, as if they had been burned.
( 61 )
CHAPTER V.
Weeling.—M' Mann's Creek.— Dely's Station. — Captell Island
Creek. — Fish Island. — Fish Creek. — Sun Fish Creek. — Oppo-
sum Creek. — Fisher's Creek. — Long Reach. — Isle De'chiquetee.
Middle Island. — French Creek. — Three Brothers Island. —
Cow Creek. — Calf Creek. — Bull Creek. — Little Muskingum.—
DuvaVs Island.
THE little town of Weeling is situated on the left side
of the river, and at the confluence of a creek which bears
its name. It contains from twelve to fifteen habitations,
all of which are of wood, or log-houses. In the angle
formed by the creek and the river, a small wooden fort is
erected j it has four bastions, and two small block-houses
are constructed thereon in the usual manner: the whole
is surrounded with palisadoes ten or twelve feet high; but
there is neither ditch, parapet, nor cannon. The town
has two small stores, but scantily furnished ; travellers,
Gz
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
nevertheless, may obtain some refreshments there; but
they are excessively dear, since there is neither plenty nor
concurrence.
Opposite Weeling is a beautiful spot, called Weeling's
Island, exactly the form of a triangle: the land is suffi-
ciently high to preserve it from all inundation- The right
side of the river opposite Weeling is lined with heights;
the left side is intersected with rising grounds and small
vallies extremely fertile, where several habitations are
already established, which gives the country an interesting
and pictoresque aspect. The water opposite to Weeling's
Creek is ten feet deep.
Two miles below Weeling's Island, which you must
leave on the right, you pass a creek on the same side,
called McMann's Creek, which is seven or eight fathom
broad at the mouth, and navigable for skiffs three or four
miles inland.
Five miles below McMann's Creek we reached Dely's
Station, where there are five or six log-houses built on a
beautiful platform, open, fertile, and watered by a consi-
derable number of small creeks. These kinds of stations
have been formed by the union of several families, who
were led, from fear of the Indians, to establish themselves
near each other, contrary to the usual custom, which leads
settlers to place their respective habitations at a distance,
OF NORTH AMERICA. 65
when they can do so without danger. The water oppo-
site to McMann's Creek is fifteen feet deep, and the navi-
gation good.
Beyond Dely's Station, the mountains on the right fall
back to a great distance, and leave a considerable space of
low land, while those on the left continue to close upon the
river. Opposite the Station, on the left side, are two creeks,
the first is called Little Grave Creek, and the other Great
Grave Creek. After four miles of good navigation, we reached
Captell's Island : the depth of water, during the whole of this
passage, is from fifteen to eighteen and twenty feet: we leave
the island on the left; the channel has eight feet of water.
Two miles below Captell's Island, and on the right,
is a very fine creek, Captell Island Creek, called erro-
neously on the map Grapwin's Creek, which name is not
known in the country. This creek is about fifty fathom
wide at its mouth, but is navigable only a mile inland, and
that only in time of floods: the soil through which it flows
is remarkably fertile ; the depth opposite to its mouth is six
feet, with a muddy bottom.
Three miles lower we reached Fish Island, a mile irs
length, and which we leave on the left: the channel is
from ten to twelve feet deep. The aspect of the country
opposite to this island varies: the mountains on the right
fall back to a considerable distance, and those on the left
0-i SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
bound the river without leaving a strip of land: they are
also nearly perpendicular.
Immediately after passing the island, we found a creek,
on the left side, called Fish Creek, which is navigable two
miles during the floods, but only for barks: it is impro-
perly marked on the maps by the name of Very Large
Creek.
A mile lower than Fish Creek are two small islands
which almost touch the main land; properly speaking-,
they are only sand-banks, which are dry when the water
is low, and ought at all times to be avoided by steering to
the left, where there is fifteen feet of water.
Three miles from Fish Creek, we passed Sun-fish Creek
on our right, which is about forty fathom broad, and na-
vigable seven miles for canoes of two thousand weight in
time of floods. Low lands of the first quality are bathed
by these waters on the left ; the right is bounded by steep
mountains. The depth of water opposite Sun-fish Creek
is twelve feet.
Three miles below Sun-fish Creek we reach Opposum
Creek on the right. We continued our route three miles fur-
ther, leaving on the left a great extent of flat land covered
with several new habitations. The river here loses a third of
its breadth, but deepens in proportion ; at the place where
it bends, the depth is from twenty to twenty-five feet.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 65
Eight miles below Opossum Creek, on the left, is
Fishing Creek, on both sides of which are very rich low
grounds well inhabited : the country which we traversed to
reach these establishments had no inhabitants. Fishing
Creek is navigable three miles for canoes of every size ;
the depth of water in the river is from twelve to thirteen
feet, the navigation extremely good, and without impedi-
ment.
Five miles lower down the river, we leave on the left
an island without a name, the first of five which we found
in Long Reach, a stretch of twelve miles in which the
Ohio makes no bend but flows in a straight channel : this
channel is full of islands of different sizes, and crowned by
small hillocks of graceful and varied forms. From the
beautiful aspect which this country, yet uninhabited, pre-
sents, we may judge how lovely it would appear if clothed
and animated by cultivation : the extreme fertility of the
soil, the advantages of navigation, the abundance of fish
and game, and the mildness of the climate, may lead to
presume with a kind of certainty that a number of inha-
bitants will speedily repair thither ; and that this fine
country, now a desert, and only six months ago occupied
by the natives, will soon be enriched by the produce of
industry, and inhabited by families who will enjoy in
peace the fruit of their labors. .
66 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
The navigation of Long Reach, reckoning from the
first island, is twelve miles; during which distance we
leave the five islands on the left : the depth of the channel
is constantly from ten to fifteen and sixteen feet.
At the end of Long Reach, the chain of mountains on
the left closes upon the river, and that on the right
falls far back, leaving a space of low and very fertile
land.
Eight miles and an half from the last island of Long
Reach, we found on the left an island hitherto unnamed j
the irregular figure of which, formed of long points, led
us to give it the name of lie Dechiquetee. The channel
is here twelve feet deep.
After passing He Dechiquetee, at a mile and a hal f lower
on our left, we to came Middle Island, marked incorrectly
on the map in the same direction as the preceding island j
since it is situated on the left side, and close upon the land.
This island is abou t three miles long, and half a mile broad j
its site is very elevated, and covered with fine wood : the
channel by which it is separated from the left bank is not
more than ten or twelve fathom broad, wiih a depth of
nine or ten feet of water. I made the circuit of this island
to ascertain its figure, whilst my boat followed the main
channel. Nearly opposite the middle of the Island, and
on the left side, I found a very fine creek, more than
OP NORTH AMERICA. 67
twenty-five fathoms broad at its mouth, and navigable ten
miles for canoes. This creek is altogether omitted in
Hutchin's maps: the soil which it waters for three miles
is of the first quality, but at a little distance is hemmed in
and bounded by high mountains.
Six miles below the head of Middle Island, and on the
left, is French Creek; and a mile lower lies the first of
the three islands, called Three Brothers Islands. The
two first are almost opposite each other, and have nearly
an oval figure ; the whole form a length of four miles and
an half. We passed between the two first, and left the
last on the right j the channel here is every where twelve
feet deep, and without any obstacle.
Opposite the end of the last of these islands, a little
creek on the left called Cow. Creek empties itself into
the river. A mile and an half below this creek, we
found on the left two small sand-banks which are covered
in floods ; we leave them on our left, and kept the middle
of the channel which is every where eight or nine feet
deep. Here the two chains of mountains on the right and
left suddenly disappear, and leave the river to circulate
freely in one of the most noble basins I ever beheld.
Though all the lands and woods are of a superior quality,
this part of the country is still uninhabited as far as Fishing
Creek, which makes a distance of forty miles.
K 2
68 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
Two miles and an half below the two sandbanks on the
left side is a creek called Calf Creek, which is dry during
the whole summer j and two miles further down on the
left is Bull Creek.
After a safe navigation of five miles, and which yields
nine, ten, and twelve feet of water, with a flat country on
each side, we reached Little Muskingum, which is nearly
ten fathom wide at its mouth. The navigation is inter-
cepted by two falls, and encumbered with drift wood.
A mile lower than little Muskingum we reached Duval's
Island; it is two miles and an half long, and follows the
same direction as the river. We leave it on the left, and
found in the channel from eight to ten feet of water. A creek
called Ducks Creek lies on the right, and opposite to the
middle of the island.
A mile below Duval's Island, the Muskingum river falls
into the Ohio, at the confluence of which is the town of
Marietta. Muskingum river is about one hundred and
fifty fathom broad at its mouth, and is navigable one
hundred miles for boats of four or five thousand weight.
( 69 J
CHAPTER VI.
Description of Marietta.— Observation respecting the Scioto Com-*
vany.— Little Kanhaw ay. —Plantation of Bel Pre'.— Island of
Bel Pre.— Little Hoclhocling.— Great Hoclhocling.— Lee' s
Creel— Belleville Island— Devil's Hole.— Anderson's Island.—
Abraham Burr.— Correction of Hutchiria Map.— Tartfs Pall.
—Robertson Island.— Taylor's Island.— Great Kanhaway.—
Observation.— Galipolis Island.— Omission.— Galipolis.— Ra-
coon Creel.— Little Guiandot. — Great Guiandot. — Twelve
Poles Creek.— Great Sandy River.— Little Sandy River.— Ger-
vais's Station.— Pine's Creek.— Little Scioto.— Tiger's Creel.-*
jGreat Scioto.
1 HE site of Marietta presents the most agreeable land-
scapes imaginable. This town is built at the confluence
of the Muskingum and the Ohio, the bed of which is filled
with beautiful islands : in the back ground of these islands,
the view extends over a vast range of hills of different
70 SURVEY OF TUB WESTERN RIVERS
forms, and covered in several places with a variety of plants
which in Europe are collected with so much expense and
difficulty. The rude peaks of these hills which bound
this delicious valley are decorated with flowers of various
kinds, whilst the defiles of the mountains are shaded with
a diversity of forest trees, interspersed with the honeysuckle
and the magnolia. At the foot of the hills, the acacia spreads
its tender branches tufted with flowers, and the tulip tree
rears its majestic head towering above the shrubs. Here
and there portruding masses of rock, contrasting with the
brilliant verdure of the plants, give an air of enchantment
to the whole scenery. It was in the middle of June that
I visited this delicious abode ; at the time when the vege-
tation was at its height, and when it presented itself with
all its luxuriant graces, embalming the air with its various
perfumes.
The remains of an old wooden fort with four bastions,
which served as a defence against the Indians, may still be
seen at Marietta : their present distance and state of tran-
quillity render this fortification now useless*
The ground on which the town is built, as well as that
which surrounds it, is of a pretty good quality, although
ljght : the inhabitants cultiyate maize, rye, and hemp, but
fju * See their new limits in the Chart, N°. I J.
OP NORTH AMERICA. n1
hitherto no wheat ; there are several stores established:
the country, nevertheless, is poor, and its progress in re-
sources and in population have been much retarded by the
last destructive war of the savages.
The greater part of the population of Marietta is com-
posed of five or six hundred families from New England 3
a few unfortunate French families have also taken refuge
in this place, victims of American land speculators, and of
the ignorance or weakness of the chiefs of the Scioto Com-
pany.
From the information we obtained on the spot, re-
specting the causes of the ill success of the Scioto under-
taking, of which we have heard so much in France, and
of which so many have been the dupes, it appears that the
chiefs of the Company were deceived by their first agents,
which always happens in America to purchasers who are
not themselves acquainted with the situation and quality
of lands ; that they had not taken sufficient security with
respect to the validity of the titles; and that, placing them-
selves near the Indians, they neither treated with them for
the possessions nor the limits, which would have been very
easy from the good will which the Indians throughout the
whole of these countries bear towards the French j that
the leaders in the undertaking, under the influence of
terror, took the absurd resolution of stopping at Mus-
7 2 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
kingum, where they were really surrounded by the Indians,
and giving up Scioto after proceeding two-thirds of the
way. If it be difficult to justify the folly of men, who
quitted France to establish a colony on the Scioto without
using the least precaution ; and who, without the know-
ledge which was necessary to succeed, charged themselves
with the care of three hundred families composed of their
countrymen ; nothing can ever excuse them for abandon-
ing, in the midst of deserts and dangers, those unhappy
families whose confidence they had betrayed, by assuring
ihem they would hasten back from Philadelphia, whither
the interests of the Society called them, when they formed
the resolution of returning no more. Had these chiefs
procured good information respecting the disposition of the
Indians, which was very easy, they would have learned
that these tribes are invariable in their attachment to the
French; and if, instead of flying in panic and terror, they
had sent two French deputies to the Indians, who were
then at war with the United States ; far from being at-
tacked, the French colony would have met with protection
and assistance from the savages, on condition that they
would not mingle in their disputes with the Americans.
But the apprehensions of the new colonists were too power-
ful, and were strengthened by the Americans, to whom
these unfortunate strangers had committed their interests j
4
OP NORTH AMERICA. y3
from this pusillanimous and hasty conduct, resulted the
massacre of many of those families, together with the total
ruin of such as escaped the carnage. We learned these
details from some of those families, and from two chiefs
. of the nation of the Miamis.
Three miles below Marietta, we left on the right a
small creek: the country on both sides is flat and without
mountains ; the water is thirteen feet deep.
A mile and an half below the creek, we passed an
island on the left ; the channel is eight feet deep.
Three miles farther on, we found another island smaller
than the first, which we left on our right : the water is
here from fifteen to sixteen feet in depth -r the country
continues to be flat on both sides.
Three miles from the last island, we reached a third
on the left : this island is peopled, but the others are un-
inhabited: they are all high and well wooded, and are not
distinguished by any particular name.
At three miles distance from the head of the last of
these three islands, and on the left side of the Ohio, we
reached the Little Kanhaway!
Mr. Hutchins, in his description, makes no mention
of this river ; which is, perhaps, among those that flow
into the Ohio, the most worthy of observation : it is not
less than four hundred and eighty feet wide at its mouth,
VOIi. I.
74 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
and fifteen, sixteen, and seventeen deep ; its navigation is
perfectly good an hundred miles for a canoe, and fifty for
a barge, and its current so gentle that you must examine it
attentively to discover its direction. I went ten miles up
this river, and my boatman agreed that he found little*,
difference in rowing with or against the stream : a river
cannot present a greater advantage either to commerce or
agriculture. The Little Kanhaway waters a country ex-
tremely fertile, particularly on the right : the land on the
left, though more unequal, is not less productive, and is
even preferred by the farmers for growing wheat.
A mile below this river, on the right side, is a fine
plantation, the first in the county of Bel Pre : this is the
oldest establishment on the Ohio ; it was cleared and settled
when the French had the possession, and extends on the banks
of the river seven miles, the whole of which is well cultivated.
In the extent of those seven miles, are several islands;
and amongst others, one very considerable and well inha-
bited, which is called Bel Pre Island, three miles in length.
We passed it on the left, and took the channel on the right,
which is from ten to fifteen feet ; that on the left is ob-
structed by two small islands, which appear to have been
formed of a part of the soil of the great island. At the
extremity of the island of Bel Pre, there is a second, very
small, which we passed on our left.
OF NORTH AMERICA. y5
Two miles lower than the end of the island of Bel Pre,
and on the right side, is Little Hockhocking, which is alto-
gether omitted on Mr. Hutchins's map, in his descrip-
tion of the Ohio : this river is about sixty or seventy feet
wide at its mouth, and is navigable for great barges sixty
or seventy miles ; its banks are sufficiently high to preserve
the lands from inundation : the country is hilly, and full of
coal mines.
Six miles and an half below Little Hockhocking,
is Great Hockhocking : in the course of this navigation,
which is excellent, we passed two islands on the left, and
found everywhere fifteen and sixteen feet of water: the
left side is uninhabited: here the appearance of the country
changes, the right is bounded by heights.
Two miles below Great Hockhocking, and on the left,
is a little creek called Lee's Creek, on which is placed the
station of Belleville, and which contains four or five huts ;
the navigation is excellent, with a depth of water of twenty
feet.
Two miles below Lee's Creek is an island called Belle-
ville Island, almost closed in by the main land, and which
we passed on the left. Leaving on the same side Ford's
Creek, we proceeded eight miles, reckoning from Belleville
Island; during which the navigation continued to be ex-
cellent,, furnishing always from twenty to twenty-five feet,
L2
<jG SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
and came to a creek called by the French Trou de Diable,
and by the Americans Devil's Creek, situated on the left ;
the country was still uninhabited.
After passing Devil's Creek, we observed that the coun-
try on the left rises with a gentle slope, and on the right
the heights fall far back, leaving a large extent of low and
fine land.
We proceeded six miles, leaving on both sides a num-
ber of rivulets which run through a desert country, and
in summer are dried up : at the end of these six miles, we
reached Anderson's Island on the right. The navigation
continues good, with eight to fifteen feet of water, and no
obstacle in our course. Anderson's Island is inhabited, and
is formed of very fine high lands which are never over-
flowed.
Seven miles further, we found, exactly in the middle of
the river, a small low island covered with willows : the
channel is practicable on both sides ; that, nevertheless, on
the left, is the best when the waters are low, being nearly
fifteen feet deep : care must be taken not to approach the
island, which is surrounded with shoals : the country con-
tinues desert, and offers the same rude aspect.
After passing this last island, at the distance of two miles,
we reached on the left Abraham Burr's Farm. Two
miles lower, we found two small islands, one of which only
OF NORTH AMERICA. qfe
is marked on Hutchins's chart, the other being set (if the ex-
pression maybe allowed) in the left bank, which probably
was the reason that the channel which separates it from
the main land was taken for the mouth of a creek. We
might also have fallen into the same error, had we not made
the tour in order to ascertain the fact : we found a channel
more than three hundred feet wide, with about four or five
feet water, and the current very strong. This spot we called
Discovered Island ) it appears to be about a mile and an half
long, and is overflowed in high waters.
We passed those two islands on the left, and also a
creek called Mile's Creek, situated a mile below Disco-
vered Island ; proceeding a mile further, we found two
other islands, which we likewise passed on the left; they
extend two miles : the navigation is every where good,
with a depth of twenty tcrtwenty-nve feet; the country is
uninhabited, and covered with wood.
Two miles from the two last islands is Tartt's Fall,
which is merely a strong current; we kept to the right^
at three hundred yards distance: it is easy to distinguish
the channel by following the line of water which is the
least agitated; that which passes over the breakers being
white and foamy : there is eight feet of water in this
channel. It was at this fall, that the Indians killed such
numbers during the war; the barks being obliged, when
78 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
the waters are low, to keep near the right side in order to
follow the channel: there the Indians placed themselves in
ambush, and inhumanly fired on all who passed in boats,
whether friends or enemies.
The river, for nineteen miles, winds across an undulating
country : at the end of this passage we reached Robertson's
Island, which we passed on the left : the navigation from
Tartt'sFall to Robertson'slsland is unobstructed, and the wa-
ter from twelve to fifteen feet; the country is entirely desert.
Immediately after Robertson's Island, and on the left
side, is Robertson's Station, which is a very fine and ex-
tensive farm, and where all sorts of provisions and refresh-^-
ments for travellers may be found.
Three miles lower, on the left, is Taylor's Island ;
the navigation is every where good, and the water from
.eighteen to twenty feet deep.
Six miles further we reached Pleasant Point, situated at
the confluence of the Great Kanhaway. Retween Robert-
son's Island and the Great Kanhaway, are several new
establishments on the left side of the Ohio; but this coun-
try, the soil of which is of a very fine quality, is unpro-
vided with spriqg-water, particularly on the right : and
to this cause we may probably attribute the state of lan-
guor and weakness in which the establishment at Pleasant
Point remains, where the whole of the town consists only
OP NORTH AMERICA. 70
of fifteen or twenty wretched logg-houses, inhabited by
forty or fifty poor inhabitants.
Great Kanhaway river, like most of those which are
tributary to the Ohio, is much larger inland than at its
mouth j in many places, it has the same breadth and the
same majesty as the Ohio : its source is slow and gentle as
far as ten miles from its junction, during which space
it waters a very fertile country ; from thence the land rises j
the current of the river becomes more rapid, and continues
so as far up as the fall at the distance of sixty miles from
its mouth; the largest boats, however, go up the stream
without much difficulty. A carrying place at the fall, across
the defiles of the mountains, of five or six miles, practicable
for waggons and carts, has lately been discovered : at the
end of this place, the goods may be replaced in boats, car-
rying from two to three thousand weight, which ascend
to the very sources of the Great Kanhaway : a commu-
nication from hence, to James River in Virginia, has been
projected.
After leaving Pleasant Point and the Great Kanhaway,
we reached, three miles lower down, Galipolis Island, which
we left on the right and took the channel on the left, being
every where fourteen or fifteen feet, while that on the right
is extremely dangerous and full of shoals. This island has
been totally forgotten on Hutchins's map: it is about two
So SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
miles long and six hundred yards broad, surrounded with
shoals, and for the most part so low as to be overflowed in
high waters : a floating mill is erected in the channel which
this island forms with the Ohio ; a proof that the island
has no running water.
Immediately after passing Galipolis Island, we reached
the little town of Galipolis on the right: its population may
be reckoned at ninety or ninety-five men and from forty to
forty-five women, — a community formed of the wreck of
the Scioto Company. The Congress granted seven acres
of land to each family, which is not sufficient for their
subsistence, and therefore they are extremely miserable.
The town is situated in a platform covered with stagnant
waters, which renders this spot extremely unhealthy : and
the quality of the land is bad, being light and sandy. The
town is built of small huts or log-houses close to each other,
and is flanked by three block-houses ; the whole palisadoed
with great piquets: the streets are laid out in lines ; but the
present appearance of the place is dirty, and it seems to be
the abode of wretchedness.
The Congress, in 1796, granted to each family two
hundred and fifty acres of land near the Little Scioto 5 to
indemnify them for all the sufferings, robberies, and mur-
ders, of which they had been the victims, from the care-
lessness, knavery, and perfidy of its agents.
OP NORTH AMERICA. gL
In quitting Galipolis, we left on our right a small creek
which is dry during the summer. Four miles lower is a
little island, the name of which is unknown: this island has
two channels equally good, but in low waters that on
the right is preferable, having fifteen feet. Here the
country rises and becomes a little hilly, but is still destitute
of springs, which will long prevent it from being inhabited.
After eight miles excellent navigation, across a country
which continues to be a desert, we reached a creek situated
on the left, called Racoon Creek : we found in every part
from fifteen to eighteen feet water: in this space, the two
chains of mountains on both sides fall back, and the river
runs through a track of low land, which however is not
subject to inundations.
All the creeks marked on the map from Tartt's Fall
are dry for the most part during the summer; they ought
to be considered merely as ravines, which serve for car-
rying off the waters in great rains.
Seven miles below Racoon Creek, on the left, we
reached Little Guiandot : the navigation continues good,
and without any impediment: the country is uninhabited,
and its appearance is similar to the preceding.
Eight miles and an half lower, and on the same side as
the Little Guiandot, is Great Guiandot, which is about
one hundred and twenty yards broad at its mouth: its
vol. i. M
52 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
current is very rapid, but canoes can go up for sixty
miles.
Nine miles farther down, we came to Twelve Poles
Creek. During the last eight miles, we left on our right
two creeks, which are dry during the summer. The
country wears the same aspect, and is without inhabi-
tants j the navigation is good, the depth of water being
every where from fifteen to eighteen feet.
We passed on our left Great Sandy River, six miles
and an half from Twelve Poles Creek. This river is
nearly of the same breadth as the Great Guiandot : its course
is more gentle, and it is navigable seventy miles for great
boats : the lands through which it runs are low and sandy,
and often inundated by high waters. Towards its sources,
it traverses a country full of rocks and stones, and extremely
barren. In this spot, the right side of the Ohio is bounded
by a great height, which touches its banks : the heights to
the left, on the contrary, fall back, and leave a tract of
low lands.
After q'uiuing Great Sandy River, we found, three
miles lower down on the right, a creek without a name.
The chain of rocky mountains on the right continues to
run along the bank: the navigation is good, and free from
every obstacle : the depth of water is from ten to sixteen
feet : the country is a desert.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 83
A mile lower on the right we found a torrent: the chain
of rocks runs still along on the right; the left is a tract of
low and sandy ground : the depth of water is fifteen feet,
and the navigation good. Two miles below this torrent,
we left, at the distance of four hundred yards from the
banks of the river on the right, a mass of rocks, extremely
high and steep, covered with small firs. The left side
continued flat and sandy.
Three miles from the beginning of the rocks, on the
left," is Little Sandy River : here the Ohio is considerably
augmented, and is not less than from fifteen to twenty feet
deep; both banks may be approached without the slightest
danger.
In quitting Little Sandy River, we left on the right
two new settlements called Gervais's Station : the Con-
gress has just made a concession of several thousand acres
of this land to the inhabitants of Galipolis.
We continued our route for thirteen miles, passing on
the left a few ravines without water, till we reached Pine's
Creek, during which course the navigation continued ex-
cellent : the river is bordered on both sides with fine lands,
chiefly that on the right, where no mountain is' to be seen ;
but this part of the country is unprovided with spring
water, and the little which is found, is brackish.
Two miles from Pine's Creek, on the right, is Little
M 2
84 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
Scioto, which is about twenty yards wide at the mouth :
it is full of currents and falls, and being also encumbered
with trunks of trees, is impracticable for canoes : a
wretched hut belonging to hunters stands on the right
near its mouth.
Six miles lower, leaving three small ravines on the
right, we reached Tiger's Creek, which is not navigable,
being filled with rocks and encumbered with drift wood :
here a chain of high mountains covered with rocks runs
along the left side ; the ground on the right continues low,
and the soil is fine but without water.
Six miles from Tiger's Creek, leaving on our right
a hunter's hut, we reached the Great Scioto.
( 85 )
CHAPTER VII
Great Scioto. -Silk Worms.- Colioochee.-Kennekenna's Creek.-
MitcheTs Station—Salt Worts.— Salt Lick Creek. -Graham—
Middle Creek.-Onalsorts Creek. -Manchester. -Character of
Independance.— Brush's Station.
1 HE Great Scioto is from two hundred to two hundred
and forty yards wide at its mouth ; it is bordered by fine
natural meadows; and the banks on the right are crowned
at four miles distance by a chain of heights which run
towards the north. In high waters, a portion of land on
each side the river is overflowed; but these inundations
reach no farther than fifteen miles from its mouth, the
land at this point rising gradually. The Great Scioto is
navigable seventy miles for all kinds of barges, and two
86 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
hundred miles for canoes : the current is slow, and easy
of ascent.*
The lands watered by the Great Scioto are of the first
quality ; the greater part covered with very fine wood,
and particularly with white mulberries, which are found
in larger quantities here than in any other spot : there are
also here an infinite number of silkworms, that feed on
the trees, and make their pods in such extraordinary pro-
fusion, that large tracts are whitened by these pods which
strew the ground : the inhabitants of the country, how-
ever, reap no advantage from thence ; since hands are too
scarce, in these regions, to be employed for any other use
than the cultivation of an excellent soil.
A great quantity of springs of salt water are found on
both sides the Great Scioto, but these springs are in
general weak.
Within six months, several American families, coming
from Kentucky, have established themselves on the right
side of the Great Scioto, and at its mouth. These are
* Mr. Hutcliins is wrong in observing that the Great Scioto is navigable
as far as a carrying place, which is four miles distant, in order to gain
the sources of the river Sandusky ; it is, probably, the river Miami that he
means. The carrying place of the Great Scioto to the Sandusky is seventy
miles.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 87
the first whites who have dared to meet the fury of the
Indians, by whom the country has been defended with
firmness and perseverance against the invasions of the
Americans : it is at the mouth of the Scioto that the
greatest number of massacres have taken place, during the
war which was carried on against the Indians by the
United States.
Thirty houses are already built, and the plan of a
small town is marked out; which, from its position and
the richness of the soil, will probably become one of the
most pleasant and populous of all the establishments formed
on the Ohio. It is chiefly inhabited by Swiss ; the land
already sells for eight piastres an acre.
Independently of this little establishment, about forty
families, since the peace with the Indians, have gone up
the Great Scioto an hundred miles from its mouth, have
formed settlements, and already began to clear the land.
After passing the mouth of the Great Scioto, the
chain of heights which borders the left of the Ohio falls
back to the south-west ; but two miles lower down, this
chain gradually approaches its banks, and returns again
to take its first direction, leaving a tract of fine land,
which, rising from the Ohio in a kind of amphitheatre, is
secure from inundations. The wood along the whole of
these heights is generally stunted, and of a bad quality ;
05 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
and the only good soil to be found, is that situated in the
low lands.
At the distance of seven or eight miles from the mouth
of the Great Scioto, the two chains of mountains close
upon the banks, and run parallel with the river, taking
the name of the heights of the Little Miami : the summits
of these two chains are sometimes uniform and of an equal
height, and sometimes rise in the form of sugar loaves.
After descending the Ohio eleven miles from the Great
Scioto, in which space we found from twenty to thirty feet
of water, we passed on the left Kennekenna Creek, which
is not navigable during the summer. Two miles beyond
this creek, and after leaving a small island on the right,
we reached a creek called Turkey's Creek, opposite to
which is another small island. The chain of heights, of
no great elevation on the right side beyond Turkey's
Creek, falls off a little from the bank, and leaves a space
of a mile and an half covered with fine low grounds which
begin to be inhabited.
Four miles distant from Turkey's Creek, and on the
right, is Mitchell's Settlement, which is already very
considerable. The navigation from Turkey's Creek is
excellent : the depth of water is from twenty to twenty-
five feet. The heights on the left side from Kennekenna
Creek bound the river the length of six miles below
OF NORTH AMERICA. 89
Mitchell's Settlement j the country is undulating and the
soil fine, but without springs. The lands on the right
are better watered, and there are several small sources in
the mountains.
After eight miles of good navigation, we reached on
the right a salient point formed by the river, which is an
alluvion, covered with small willows. We kept to the
left, avoiding carefully this point, towards which we
were driven by a very strong current, and the whole of
which is surrounded by shoals. The bed of the river is
here considerably narrowed by this alluvion ; never-
theless, by keeping the channel, we always found during
these eight miles from fifteen to eighteen feet of water.
Immediately after passing the point of the alluvion,
we found on the right a very strong counter current, the
velocity of which may be computed at four miles an
hour.
Two miles below this point, and on the left side, we
reached Vunce's Burgh, commonly called the Salt Works.
This establishment is still in a languishing state ; four or
five negroes and two whites are the only persons em-
ployed in a manufacture which presents such important
advantages for this part of the continent. The spring of
salt water is very abundant, and is about eight feet in
diameter and twelve in depth ; we thought it weak to the
VOL. I. N
9o
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
taste; but the proprietor assured us, that having been
overflowed in the last inundation of the Ohio, it had lost
a great part of its force. No chemical experiment has
yet been made to discover exactly to what degree this
water is impregnated with salt. The computation made
on the spot is, that four hundred gallons produce nearly
fifty pounds weight of salt.
Four buckets, suspended like those of a gardener's
well, are employed in drawing the water, which is
emptied into a little reservoir made of the bark of trees,
and placed on small rafters, from which the water falls
into troughs framed of the trunks of trees, and from
thence into boilers. These boilers are of different sizes j
and the largest contains about twelve gallons: they are
placed parallel to each other on stoves cemented with
mud. The whole of this apparatus is so ill combined
that each of these boilers requires a separate fire, and
after each boiling the stoves must be newly cemented.
We may judge from hence how great must be the loss of
time and the consumption of fuel.
This place is infected every summer with putrid
diseases, occasioned bjr the marshes which surround it.
Five or six log-houses form the whole of this establish-
ment, which offers no accommodation whatever to
travellers. The quality of the land is bad; what is not
OF NORTH AMERICA. ql
marsh, is gravel, covered with the finest beech trees
which can be found in America; but it is well known
that this kind of wood indicates almost always a poor soil.
At half a mile from Vunce's Burgh and on the same side
is Salt Lick Creek, which is navigable neither for boats
nor canoes.
Having passed the creek, we perceived the heights on
the left side falling off towards the south, leaving between
them and the river a tract of flat country of nearly three
miles, the soil of which is of the richest kind. The
heights on the right run close along the river, forming
distinct knolls, with gentle declivities. We are led to
believe from the form, the aspect, and the soil of these
hills, that the kind of wild vine which grows there may
one day be cultivated with advantage.
The navigation for nine miles below Salt Lick Creek
yields from twenty to twenty-five feet of water, without
the slightest obstacle. We passed on the left a farm and
small creek without a name, and reached an establish-
ment belonging to Mr. Graham, situated on the left side
of the river, and consisting of several beautiful farms,
the first depending on the State of Kentucky, and
which form an extent of more than six miles. Here the
two chains of heights fall back, and leave a stretch of fine
low land on both sides.
m
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
On the side of the river opposite Graham's farms
are several new settlements, which would enjoy all the
advantages that nature can yield, if the country were not
totally destitute of water.
Three miles below Graham's settlement is an island,,
called Middle Island, which we left on the right. The
water in the channel is from fifteen to twenty-three
feet.
Opposite Middle Island, on the right, we passed a
creek called Brush's Creek, which, although considerable,,
is omitted in Hutchins's map. Three miles lower and
on the same side is another creek, which is marked in
Hutchins's map by the name of the Little Scioto, and
known in the country by that of Onalson's Creek. The
Little Scioto, as we have observed above, is situated im-
mediately beyond the Great Scioto.
Opposite to Onalson's Creek a small creek empties
itself, called Sycamore Creek; but this, properly speaking,
is only a ravine during the summer. Between Brush's
Creek and Onalson's Creek the country continues to be
open, and is well inhabited.
After descending five miles from Onalson's Creek, we
reached the Three Islands lying across the river. When
the waters are high, the channel on the right is prac-
ticable; we passed it, however, with great difficulty,
Of NORTH AMERICA. g5
on account of the sinuosities and the trunks of trees with
which it is encumbered. The water is every where from
nine to ten feet deep. But the best and safest passage is
on the left, between the small island and the river, where
there is always sufficient water, and the channel is
straight : the passage in the middle must always be
avoided, being full of shoals.
Two miles below these islands, and on the right, is
situated the little town of Manchester, built in a straight
line, parallel to the bank of the river, and about a mile
in length. The first house was built five years since, and
there are already more than an hundred, great and small.
The ground on which it is built is in general bad;
it is a yellow sandy soil, and the town is surrounded by
marshes. This is, however, one of the intermediary points
between Pittsburgh and Limestone, where the traveller
may hope to find most accommodations: Manchester is
a town full of mechanics ; such as wheelwrights, carpen^-
ters, smiths, shoemakers, and taylors.
At the moment of our departure from this place, we
perceived, at a considerable distance, something bulky
floating in the midst of the river. Not being able to ima-
gine what it could be, since it had neither the form of a
boat, nor of drift wood with which the river is often
encumbered, we determined to wait a few minutes in
9*
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
order to gratify our curiosity, which was strongly excited.
In about a quarter of an hour, we clearly distinguished a
man with a dog by his side, a gun in his hand, and
seated on logs of wood tied together, which floated down
the stream. When he drew near, we made towards him ;
but what was our surprise in accosting him, to find in
this man the young hunter we had left at Pittsburgh, and
who had refused to work on board our boat with the men
we had hired for that purpose.
He told us, that immediately after our departure he
had himself constructed this small raft, with the intention
of proceeding in this manner as far as Cumberland River,
where he lived ; that he went on shore every evening,
fearful of driving against the trunks of trees which floated
in the river ; that every morning at day break he hunted
to procure himself food; that he had killed a fine buck
that morning, of which he offered us half, provided we
would give him biscuit in return, not having been able,
for want of money, to lay in a sufficient quantity at Pitts-
burgh. We gave him twenty-five biscuits, but he would
not accept them, till we had taken in exchange half of
his game; we offered him powder and shot, which he
also refused, though his store was much diminished, ob-
serving to us that he had nothing to give in return ; and
then quitted us, letting his raft drive down the stream.
OF NORTH AMERICA.
IP
The reader will no doubt be- gratified in observing
in this young man, that noble character of independence
which induced him to reject offers by which he would
have incurred obligations. Amidst those vast deserts, on
a river which, from his mode of travelling, exposed him
to great dangers, with no means of subsistence but such
as chance and his courage could procure, he preserved his
independence, because he was not degraded by want. In-
dependence is indeed a refuge against a multitude of evils,
and the man who is in the enjoyment of that blessing is
far beyond the reach of fortune, and is rich in his own
resources.
A mile from Manchester, we left on our right a small
creek, called Izick's Creek. Both chains of heights at
this spot close in upon the river, and no flat lands are to
be seen j the left side is, however, well inhabited.
Three miles and an half below Izick's Creek, and
after passing, on the left, a very small creek which has
no name, we reached Cabin's Creek, which is some-
what considerable, but so full of rocks and falls that it
is not navigable. Both chains of heights at this point
are extremely elevated, and the bed of the river being
hemmed in, the depth of water is consequently greater 5
from Manchester to Cabin's Creek, the river is from
twenty-five to thirty feet deep.
<}6 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
Two miles and an half lower than Cabin's Creek, we
came to Brook's station, which is a very fine farm.
Here the two chains of heights begin to fall back, but
chiefly that on the left. The whole of this side is per-
fectly well inhabited, though the soil appeared to us
yellow and light.
After descending four miles further, we reached
Limestone,
( 97 )
CHAPTER VIII.
Kentucky.— Limestone.— Washington.— North Licking Creek.-*
Lee's Creek.— Johnston's Fork.— Blue Lick.— Licking River.—
Miller'sBurgh — Bourbon.— Observations Lexington.— Frank-
fort.—Nature of the Country.— Hemp. — Population.— Emi-
grants.—First Class.— Second Class.— Third Class.— Free Men,
—Old Forts.— Commerce.— Comparative Sketch.
LIMESTONE is a very small town on the left of the
Ohio, at the foot of a steep mountain, and which, from the
narrow space between the hill and the banks of the
river, can never be very populous ; it is, nevertheless,
the depot of whatever goods pass from Baltimore and
Philadelphia to Kentucky, as well as the halting-place of
all travellers who visit these countries. At Limestone,
however, few resources are to be found ; the inns are
wretched public houses without provisions, and the little
that can be obtained is procured with difficulty and at an
exorbitant price.
vol. i. o
98 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
On quitting this town to visit the inland country, we
ascended a very steep and difficult hill, full of large stones,
many of which were loose ; but this is the only road for
waggons and carriages to convey such goods as are brought
in boats to Limestone for the stores of Kentucky. When we
reached the plain at the top of the hill, we found the road
less difficult and stony : after descending one hill which
was more gentle, and mounting another, we passed a rivulet
near which are three roads : those on the right and left
only lead to farms, and to a country that is uninha-
bited: we followed the middle road across the woods, and
at the end of a mile found two roads, the left of which
leads to Brook's Town, and the right to Wood's Mill; the
last is the road to follow. A mile further the road divides
again; that on the right goes to Braken, a small town
newly built: we followed the other for a mile and an half,
and reached the town of Washington.
Washington is situated in the midst of a vast open plain,
which gives it a barren aspect, though the soil is not bad.
This town is very regularly built, and contains about two
hundred and fifty, or three hundred inhabitants : the houses
are almost all of wood ; two or three only are built of brick.
There is a court-house, and several stores, two or three of
which are excellent ; the appearance of the country, how-
ever, deprived of water, presents a dull sameness.
OF NORTH AMERICA. Q,(j
From Washington to North Licking Creek, we tra-
versed three miles and an half of better road than that we
had left behind : at this creek, there is a very good bridge.
The river is never fordable in any season ; the banks are
steep, the bottom muddy, and the land on each side marshy,
which in time of war would render this an important
defensive position : from this bridge to Lee's Creek, we
proceeded three miles across woods that are uninhabited,
and a country interspersed with small heights. Lee's Creek
is fordable at all times.
After passing Lee's Creek, we came to a flat and level
country which is well inhabited, containing fine lands
that are plentifully watered ; and a mile below Lee's
Creek, we reached Mazelaek Tavern, which furnishes
good accommodation.
Five miles from Mazelaek's Tavern is Johnston's Fork :
the four first miles lie across a fine plain perfectly well
cultivated, and the fifth forms a gentle descent. We forded
Johnston's Fork, which is a small branch of Licking River,
and then ascended a hill for the space of a mile, that is
woody and uninhabited ; on reaching the summit, we
found a plain five miles in extent, which is also without any
habitation : at the end of this plain, we passed a rivulet,
and descending two miles a very steep road full of stones,
came to Blue Lick.
o 2
100 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
The whole of the country from the plain is dry and
open, strewed with rocks, and consequently barren; the
only objects of vegetation we descried were a few small
pines peeping above the crevices of the rocks ; every thing
else around bears the marks of sterility, desolation, and
sadness. We found a poor salt manufactory at Blue Lick,
which probably has acquired its name from the salt spring,
the color of its water being of a very fine blue ; on tasting
this water, I found it scarcely brackish : it requires a
thousand gallons to make a bushel of salt weighing fifty
pounds, which sells on the spot for twenty shillings of Vir-
ginia (three dollars and an half). We may conceive what
must be the consumption of wood to obtain so considerable
an evaporation, and thereby judge of the little value of the
spring, since the forests around must be speedily wasted :
the mode of manufacturing, too, is extremely vicious, and
similar to that which I have already described in treating of
the salt works at Vunce's Burgh.
At a very small distance from Blue Lick we reached
the principal branch of Licking River, which we passed in
a ferry. Five hundred yards below this ferry is a bank of
calcareous stone, which is dry when the waters are low,
and stops the navigation during two or three months of the
year. Except in seasons of drought, this river is navigable
one hundred and fifty miles for the largest boats.
OP NORTH AMERICA. 101
After passing Licking River, we came to a desert country
composed only of masses of rock : we journeyed eight
miles along a road which was almost impracticable, from
the immense quantity of ravines and enormous stones with
which it is encumbered, and found on our way a wretched
hut inhabited by woodmen and hunters. Four miles fur-
ther on, we reached a small town called Miller's Burgh;
the country, during these last four miles, is less desert, and
contains a few habitations ; but the general aspect, for
the space of twelve miles, is bad; the lands are poor, and
the wood small and stunted.
Miller's Burgh, marked on the map by the name of
Hingston, is agreeably situated on a small creek called
Hay's Creek, the waters of which empty themselves into
the southern branch of Licking River, which is navigable
at all times for boats and barges to the Ohio, beginning
five miles lower clown than Miller's Burgh. The land four
miles on this side of Miller'sBurgh is of abetter quality; the
value of that near the town is from six to eight dollars per
acre ; a lot of half an acre in the town costs already two
hundred pounds, or five hundred piastres.
Leaving Miller's Burgh, we forde'd the creek, the road
from which turns quite short to the left, and that on the
right leads only to the woods. Crossing a plain finely cul-
tivated, and proceeding eight miles, we reached Bourbon
102 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
Court House, situated between the southern branch
and a small arm of Licking River, which forms an island
five miles below Cheap's Mill, where that river begins to
be navigable. Notwithstanding the inconvenient situation
of this town, there are already two hundred houses built
in stone, and thirty or forty stores or warehouses.
Though the river is deep, yet its banks in general are
low and firm, and its bed excellent; it presents, therefore,
in a military point of view, from Cheap's Mill to its source,
but very feeble means of defence. Were it not for the
facility of passing this river in all seasons with an hostile
armament, Bourbon Court House would perhaps be one
of the best defensive posts in all the habitable part of Ken-
tucky, being situated on a fine elevated plain, commanding
a very considerable distance in all the points of its cir-
cumference, and bounded by two branches of the river
to its sources : this position seems destined, at a future
period, to be the central defensive point of Kentucky.
After travelling nineteen miles from Bourbon Court
House, across a great and extensive plain, sometimes
grouped with woods, and sometimes interspersed with
farms, equal for the construction of the buildings and the
cultivation of the land to any in Europe, we reached
Lexington. This town is situated in the midst of a vast
plain as open as that of Philadelphia, and on which there
OF NORTH AMERICA. 100
is not a tree to be seen four miles around ; a whitish soil
without water, and a burning sun in the month of July,
are all we found and felt in the neighbourhood of Lexing-
ton. The town contains from three to four hundred
houses, the greater part built of wood, and arranged regu-
larly in two parallel lines running south-east and north-
west: a square is left at the central point, in the midst of
which a court house is erected. As this town has no navi-
gation, it is presumed that its increase will not be great,
and that Frankfort will be the real place of commerce.
Four miles from Lexington, we forded one of the
sources of the River Elk, called Wolf's Run, which is
not navigable, being only a rivulet, and throws itself into
that of Kentucky. From hence we travelled eighteen
miles over a woody and uninhabited country, during
which space we crossed three other small rivers, which
are also branches of the Elk, but less considerable than the
first; and arrived at Frankfort, leaving, at three miles
distance, a wretched inn, the only one to be found be-
tween this place and Lexington.
104 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
Recapitulation of the distances from Limestone to Frankfort :
Miles,
From Limestone to Washington ... 4
to North Licking Creek 3\
to Lee's Creek 3
to Mazelaek Tavern i
— — to Johnston's Fork ........ 5
to Blue Lick . . , 8
■ to Miller's Burgh 12
to Bourbon 8
to Lexington 19
rt — to Frankfort . . . . 22
Total 85 i
Frankfort is situated on the right side of Kentucky
River, in a bottom surrounded with heights, across which
the waters have opened a passage ; the banks on each
side of the river are often bordered with cliffs from two
to three hundred feet in height : there are, however, small
intervals between the heights, which form vallies. Amidst
these irregularities, and in one of the vallies on the right,
is. the town of Frankfort, which has a very picturesque
aspect. Kentucky River is navigable ten months in
the year for the largest boats, as far as the Ohio : this
OP NORTH AMERICA, 105
great advantage to trade has already determined a great
number of merchants to establish themselves at Frankfort;
and it is probable that in ten years this town will have
twice the population and wealth of Lexington.
The whole of this part of the State of Kentucky is in
general hilly, but without mountains. One peculiarity in
the quality of the lands, and which perhaps does not exist
in any other part of the United States, is, that those
situated on the summits are much better, and have greater
depth of loam than these in the vallies : these fine lands
have, however, one very bad quality ; they produce natu-
rally no herbage, or very little, fit for pasturage; there is
not the least appearance of twitch-grass ; and clover, so
common in every other State, is here very rare : this in-
convenience obliges the farmer to form artificial meadows,
which is attended with great expense, and a loss of time
which is peculiarly precious to new settlers. It must, how-
ever, be observed, that when once these artificial meadows
are in crop, they produce a third more than others, and
those especially which are sown with trefoil are extremely
fertile.
Among the agricultural productions, that which en-
gaged our attention, and which undoubtedly is the most
interesting, was the article of hemp : in this part of the
continent, it appeared to us in general to be badly dressed,
vol. i. p
106 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
very coarse, of a black color mixed with a grey tint, and
moist to the touch : on inquiring the cause of this infe-
riority, we were informed by the most intelligent farmers
that it arose from local circumstances, of which the fol-
lowing is the explanation.
The lands in the Western States are so extremely fertile,
and the vegetation so strong, that the stalk of the hemp
grows to an extraordinary height and prodigious bulk, and
with such astonishing' rapidity, that it seldom comes to
perfect maturity. On examining the stalks at the harvest,
it is found that they remain green more than six inches
above the root, though the upper part is yellow ; and being
pulled in this state, according to the European custom,
they preserve their vegetable moisture, which renders
them liable to fermentation. The cables manufactured
with this kind of hemp, although thickly covered with
pitch, constantly swell, rot, and break j and so great are
its defects, that notwithstanding the proximity of the Ha-
vannah, and the demand of the Spanish marine for this
article, orders are given to receive no more of this hemp
into the storehouses of His Catholic Majesty.
The State of Kentucky, justly alarmed at the discredit
into which so precious a branch of industry had fallen,
lately named a commission to inquire into the means best
fitted to remedy this great defect. The Commissioners
OF NORTH AMERICA. 10?
stated in their report, that until the air and the sun had
had time to dry up that excessive moisture which is com-
mon to lands newly cleared, and ripen them, it was in-
dispensable, instead of pulling the hemp, to cut it five or six
inches above the root, in order to suppress the noxious
part. Experience has fully justified this new mode of pro-
ceeding ; and the Chamber of Representatives passed a
law, declaring that all hemp, not cut conformably to
the new regulation, should neither be reckoned saleable
nor be exported.
The population of Kentucky has not augmented for
two or three years past: the dearness of land, and espe-
cially the uncertainty of tenures, which keeps purchasers
in endless lawsuits, and frequently exposes them to be
put out of possession after the expenses they may have in-
curred in clearing and cultivating, have prevented emi-
grants from settling in this part of the country, and led
them to prefer the north-west territory, where the land
is equally good and better watered, and where the titles
are indisputable. Several inhabitants of Kentucky have
taken this resolution ; and if the federal government do
not adopt measures to put an end to this multitude of claims,
this State, far from augmenting, will decrease.
The different points to which the emigrants, at pre-
sent, direct their attention, are — First, the Genneseys,
108 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
situated on the back of the State of New York; Secondly,
the Western States, such as Kentucky, the north-west
territory, and Tennesse : of these different States, the
most in favor at present is the last.
The States which furnish most emigrants are those of
the east ; some from the centre, such as Jersey and Mary-
land 5 and almost all those of the south, in a greater or
less degree.
The emigrants of the Eastern States establish themselves
in general on the Ohio j but as many in their journey tra-
verse the Genneseys, the beauty of that country, and the
facility of communicating with the ocean by the inland
canals,* lead them to settle there; and this accidental
increase of emigrants, together with those who go for the
express purpose of forming establishments, makes it
probable that the State of New York will be, of all
such as have lands in the back settlements, the first
peopled ; and this period cannot be more distant than ten
years.
The emigrants from Jersey and Maryland take their
direction also towards the Ohio, but follow the lower roads
from Philadelphia and Baltimore, which join both at
* The Mohawk River traverses the Genneseys, and throws itself into
the Northern River, and this river into the sea.
OP NORTH AMERICA. log
Pittsburgh and on the Monongahela : they commonly
spread themselves on both sides the river, as they descend
the Ohio ; but it is observed, for these two years past, that
they settle rather on the right than the left, particularly
on both the Miamis, the Muskingum, the Great and Little
Scioto, the Wabash, etc.
Those who emigrate from Virginia and North Caro-
lina go to Kentucky j Tenesse is furnished from both the
Carolinas and Georgia.
The mass of this population is divided into three classes,
each of which, placed in different lines, have their respec-
tive departments ; and according to their occupation, for-
tune, and particular character, may be ranked under the
following denominations.
The first class, called Forest Men, holds the first line
on the side of the Indian nations; these, properly speaking,
are Nomades, who do not cultivate lands, and who have
no other employment than hunting, making excursions
into the woods, and trafficking with the Indians : they
often pass whole years amidst deserts, and have no fixed
abode: a hut, covered with the bark of trees, and sup-
ported by two poles; a large fire placed on the side of the
opening; a great blanket, in which they wrap themselves
up when they sleep, placing their feet towards the fire
and their head in the cabin ; these are all that is necessary
HO SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
to shelter them from the inclemency of the weather, and to
pass the longest and severest nights. When they perceive
that the game diminishes, and that the increase of the popu-
lation requires the establishment of a court house, they
retreat forty or fifty miles farther back, to find what they
call better means of living and more liberty, " wishing" add
they " to have nothing to do with justice."*
The next class to the Forest Men is that termed the
First Settlers, who form the second line. Although these
have much analogy with the first, they are, however, more
fixed, depend less on hunting for subsistence, rear cattle,
clear certain portions of land, but never more than they
need j and as they are less vagrant, they are more careful
in the construction of their habitations : their dwellings
are a kind of small block-houses, larger at the top than the
bottom, with crannies above and below, and surrounded
with a great palisado twelve feet in height : these block-
houses are built with trunks of trees, the intervals between
which are filled up with clay mixed with chopped straw;
the roof is covered with bark or boards : the chimney
consists of a pile of stones placed at the extremity of the
apartment, in the roof of which is a hole for the smoke;
* " There is but one tiling I fear on earth," observed one of these wan-
derers to me, * and that is what men call their laws and their justice."
OF NORTH AMERICA. Ill
and another hole is made in one of the sides of the house,
which serves for the admission of light, and is of course
the window. In winter an immense fire is burning day
and night ; in summer a continual smoke is necessary, as
a defence against the moschettoes, with which the woods
are commonly filled : the same precaution is taken for the
cattle, by collecting in the pasturages, or some other place
that is cleared, branches and dead leaves, which are covered
with earth after they are set on fire, and where the animals
never fail to go and lie down every evening, in order to
keep themselves from the insects. A great cpiantity of hogs
are reared, not only as useful for the wants of the family,
but as one of the speediest means of destroying serpents
and other reptiles.*
These First Settlers often excite the vengeance or
cupidity of the Indians, who sometimes go and attack them
in their dwellings. In such rencounters, the American
defends himself with courage ; his wife does not hesitate
to take a musket, and, placed by his side at one of the
crannies, fires on the invader ; the children also take part
The hogs are very fond of serpents ; they generally catch them by the
tail, and eat them successively as far as the head, which they are careful to
let drop •, meanwhile the serpent twines around the hog, and biles him on the
right, the left, and every part of the body, without however doing the least
injury to the animal.
112 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
in the engagement. As long as the savages fail in sur-
prising these kind of houses, or in setting fire to them/
their attack is in general fruitless, and the American re-
mains unassailable ; but he is then condemned to remain
shut up for whole months for fear of being surprised, or
until by presents and negociations he has appeased the
rage of his enemies and made peace.
These First Settlers remain in general but four or five
years on the same spot; after which, the population con-
tinually increasing, they make way for the Great Settlers,
who form the third line and are the real husbandmen ; from
these they obtain certain indemnities, not for the purchase
of the land, which in general does not belong to them, but
for the slight clearings which they have made, and also
as the price of their friendship.
The Great Settlers are composed of good farmers,
emigrating from the different States, as we have already
mentioned; and who, having too numerous a family, go
back to look out for other lands of greater extent, and at
a cheaper rate, in order to settle each child on a different
farm. But from the independence which his little fortune
* The Indians set fire to these dwellings, by tying to their arrows a piece
of dry bark which they set on fire, and which, shot into the roof, puts it
immediately into a flame.
OF NORTH AMERICA. Il5
gives him, he is prudent, and looks to his own security
as well as to that of his family. He takes care not to
settle too close to the Indians, but puts his property under
the protection of the laws, and places himself, therefore,
in the third line; that is, in a spot where the population
is sufficiently great to require a civil organisation.
When the great settler has taken possession of his
new lands, the block-house of his predecessor is soon
destroyed, and a good wooden house is built in its place.
He forms his homestead, clears larger spaces of ground,
lays out meadows, plants orchards, and lives in security,
plenty, and happiness.
It is easy to conceive that the children of such men,
accustomed early to hunting, to distant courses, to felling
trees, opening roads, and braving the inclemencies of the
seasons, become themselves soon in a state to form esta-
blishments, and to acquire that love of liberty, that
honorable pride, which belongs to every man who owes
his happiness, and that of his family, only to his own
industry and labor.
Such men must also be endowed with a considerable
portion of courage, be capable of the hardiest under-
takings, and find no obstacles in deserts or mountains ;
and if we add to these physical qualities that noble and
sublime sentiment of independence with which they are
VOL. I. Q
1 I i: SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
penetrated, it ought to excite no astonishment, if, in a
military point of view, we consider them as the class of
men in America best fitted for war. It is, therefore, only
among such that we find traces of the austere and
simple manners of their ancestors, that hospitality which
heretofore formed the ornament of the Old Slates, and
where we might still dare pronounce the name of liberty.
Arbitrary laws have no authority over these people; men
who can satisfy themselves with "the enjoyment of their
primitive rights, and with a certain subsistence, have need
only of their will and their courage i« order to remain
free.
Kentucky is filled with old forts, on the origin of
which the inhabitants entertain but very vague notions j
and as their forms leave no doubt but that they were
constructed by Europeans, our astonishment redoubles
when we reflect what kind of men must have been those,
who penetrated so far inland, amidst desert regions, far
from rivers and every kind of navigation, without roads,
without means of subsistence, and amongst the most savage
nations, such as were the Delawares.
The fort, which we sketched at the time, is
situated between Lexington and Frankfort, nine miles
distant from this last town, and on a small river, called
Elk River.
OF NORTH AMERICA. Il5
On examining it with attention, we thought at first
that the ditch was the remains of an old channel, opened
to bring the water for the use of some mill, at the time
the first settlements were made in these countries ; and
it was only after making the tour that we were convinced
of our mistake. The six fronts, which form an irregular
hexagon; the parapets behind the ditch, and which,
notwithstanding the length of time, are still very easily
to be traced on the ground; the entrance which is covered
by two small turrets on a little eminence, which com-
mands the fort at a slight distance ; a kind of small horn
work; and a redoubt placed in front of the fort, are
circumstances which leave no doubt that the work was
constructed by Europeans, and even by persons well
versed in fortification.
The difficulty of explaining how military men could
against all kind of rule, according to the modern principles
of fortification, place this fort in a hollow, commanded
on all sides, was the most embarrassing circumstance in
our hypothesis. But upon reflecting on the kind of war
which the Europeans had then to sustain against the
natives, unprovided with fire-arms, never warring but
by stratagem or surprise, and always in the open field,
we thought it probable that the choice of this place had
been determined by the river Elk, the fine and healthy
Q 2
1 1 6 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
waters of which were made part of the defence, by
turning them from their natural bed into the ditches,
where the soldiers might daily draw their water without
exposing themselves to be massacred, particularly by the
natives who surrounded them, in going without the
fort. It is certain that the waters of this rivei* entered
by one of the extremities of the fort, and emptied them-
selves by the other ; and there are still to be seen the
remains of dykes, which were meant to retain the water
when it was too low.
We endeavoured to procure some information res-
pecting the nation, which at so remote a period could
have erected such works as these. The received opi-
nion in the country is, that they were constructed by
the Spanish General De Soto, who made, about two
hundred years since, an excursion on the left bank of the
Mississipi, and who penetrated so far into the country
that he was obliged to winter there with his army; but
the Spanish historian who records this fact, states as
positively that he never passed the river Tennesse. We
are led rather to believe that these forts were built by
the French at the time they were in possession of the
course of the Ohio, when they penetrated into this part
of Kentucky to carry on the fur trade ; and that knowing
the perfidy of the nations which inhabited this country,
OP NORTH AMERICA. 11 7
they constructed these forts, to shelter themselves from
the attacks of the Indians. We were confirmed in this
idea by observing, that from this fort, in a straight line,
and across the woods, it is not above sixty miles to the
Ohio. These forts, it must be remarked, are constructed
only with earth, and without any masonry or stone-work
whatever.
A convenient situation for commerce is the principal
point on which the riches and happiness of a state depend.
A great prejudice, in this respect, exists against the
Western States. I own that when I arrived in these
countries, I had myself adopted the erroneous opinion,
that there is no better way for the conveyance of goods
into these states than by Philadelphia and Baltimore to
Pittsburgh, and from thence down the Ohio ; and that on
account of the difficulties and expense attending this con-
veyance, the goods would be always too dear.
But better informed on this important question by the
exact researches which I made on the very spot, I was
convinced, as the following table will show, that this
opinion was the effect of ignorance, or of the policy of
the merchants of Philadelphia or Baltimore, who are in-
terested in the support of this error.
nS
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
A COMPARATIVE TABLE
Of the expense of conveying merchandise to Upper Louisiana,
and the Western Slates of America, by following the course of
the Mississipi ; and of the price of carriage into the same
countries, by the way of Philadelphia and Baltimore, as at
present practised* ,
FIRST COMPARISON,
By Philadelphia or Baltimore to
Knoxville, the capital of Tennesse.
From Philadelphia or Baltimore to
Pittsburg, situated on the head of the
navigation of the Ohio, the distance
by laud is 520 miles, and requires 60
days for a waggon to go and return.
The expence per hundred is 5 dollars,
or for 25 tons, doll. 25oo
From Pittsburg to Knoxville, the
distance by water is calculated at
i3oo miles, which requires i3o days
for a boat to go and return ; which
boat, containing 25 tons, has usually
10 men at one dollar each per day, 1000
Total expense for 25 tons by Phi-
ladelphia or Baltimore through Pilts-
hurg to Knoxville, going and return-
ing .... dollars 38oo
By New Orleans to Knoxville, the
capital of Tennesse.
From New Orleans to the junc-
tion of the Ohio with the Mississipi,
the distance is estimated at 1200
miles. The time to mount the river
and return is go clays, with a boat,
containing 25 tons, and 20 men,
whose wages at one dollar each per
day is . . . . doll. 1800
From the mouth of the Ohio to
Knoxville, the distance is 65o miles.
The time for a boat to mount and
return is 65 days; which boat, con-
taining 25 tons and 10 men, at one
dollar each per day, is . 600
Total expense for 25 tons by New
Orleans to Knoxville, going and
returning, . . . dollars 2100
Difference in favor of lite transport by New Orleans, i55o dollars, which
is nearly 56 per cent.
Saving of time, 35 days.
* For this purpose let us suppose two vessels of equal tonnage, and llie
same kind of merchandise, to sail from Bourdeaux or London.; the one lor
OF NORTH AMERICA,
SECOND COMPARISON.
"9
The comparative expense of transporting merchandise by New
Orleans or by Philadelphia and Baltimore to Upper Louisiana.
From Philadelphia to St. Louis, the
capital of Upper Louisiana.
From New Orleans to St. Louis
the distance is i45o miles; a boat
with 25 tons and 20 men makes this
voyage, mounting and returning,
in 100 days, at one dollar each per
day, . , . dollars 2000
From Philadelphia to Pittsburgh
the transport by land of 2D tons will
cost, as before calculated, doll. 25oo
From Pittsburgh to the junction of
the Ohio with the Mississipi the dis-
tance is calculated at i3oo miles,
which voyage up and down the river
is made in Go days, by 10 men to the
25 tons, at oue dollar each, ' 600
From the mouth of the Ohio to St.
Louis is 120 miles, which requires \5
days to mount and return with a boat
of 25 tons and 20 men, at one dollar
each, ..... 3oo
Total to go to St . Louis and return
to Philadelphia, . . dollars 34oo
Economy in favor of transport by New Orleans and the Mississipi, i4oo
dollars, which is nearly 45 per cent.
Saving of time, 55 days.
From New Orleans to St. Louis, the
capital of Upper Louisiana.
Philadelphia or Baltimore, which are at present the depots for such Eu-
ropean goods as pass into the western country, the other for New Orleans :
which of these cargoes can be transported the cheapest into the Western
States and Upper Louisiana?
120 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
In these calculations, the expense of carriage by Phi-
ladelphia or Baltimore and Pittsburgh are estimated only
at five dollars the hundred weight, but the common price
is from seven to ten dollars ; we paid ourselves as much
as eight dollars, which is still in favor of the Mississipi.*
* While we are employed in detailing circumstances relative to this
immense and interesting river, events have taken place which will remove
every xivality to its commerce, and render it one of the most animated scenes
of the industry of man. Of these events, the first is the cession of Louisiana
to the United Slates of America, which secures a free and indisputable
navigation throughout the whole length of the Mississipi to the gulf of
Mexico: this, with the confidence which the free, mild, and equitable
government of America inspires, will draw a great mass of population from
Europe, and even the northern states of America, to Upper Louisiana and
the borders of the Mississipi : with the increase of population, the produce of
industry and mercantile enterprise will augment 5 and a more general and
variegated commerce will be introduced into the country than is now prac-
tised. Such increase of the articles of trade will stimulate a desire to expedite
the transfer from New Orleans to the interior country, and render it less
expensive ; hence one of the first cares will be to improve the navigation of
the river.
The second event is the late successful experiments which have been
made for navigating boats by the power of steam engines, and which is
particularly advantageous to the Mississipi and other long rivers of America.
The length of time and greatness of expense which are required to ascend the
Mississipi, is not owing to the rapidity of the stream, but to the necessity of
using men to row or haul the boats ; that river xHinning through a country
OF NORTH AMERICA.
With respect to the difficulties in going up this river,
we think we have sufficiently proved that they are chi-
merical ; this passage, moreover, is practicable at all
seasons, and without any carrying places with barges of
yet uncultivated, has its margin covered with forests and marshes, or bordered
by stupendous rocks and clifls; so that as yet horse-paths for hauling boats
are not made, and perhaps cannot be made for a great number of years:
horses, therefore, cannot be used to aid navigation as on the rivers in Europe ;
hence the work is performed by men, which is the most imperfect mode of
navigating rivers, in consequence of the expense of men and their feeble powers,
compared to horses. The daily expense of a man is equal and usually more
than the daily expense of a horse, while the power of the horse is equal to five
men in ordinary labor; but compared to men who row a boat, and take
their purchase on the water, while the horse has his purchase on land, one
horse is equal to twelve or fifteen men, and two horses would certainly draw
a twenty-five ton boat much faster against the current of the Mississipi than
such a boat can now be navigated by twenty-five men. Consequently, if
horses could be used as in Europe, the expense of transport would be dimir
lushed more than one half. But the navigation must continue to be performed
by men, and the inhabitants of that beautiful and fertile country must labor
under the present heavy and discouraging expense of the navigation, unlil
science produces some better mode. Tliis we feel confident will be effected
by the steam boats; the experiments made in the month of July, i8o5, on the
Seine, near Paris, on a boat containing an engine of eight horses power, has
been on a scale sufficiently large to exliibit the powers and expense of such a
machine, and reduce them in all cases to mathematical demonstration; and
it is found, that on all rivers, such as the Mississipi, where horses cannot be
VOL. I. R
122 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
an hundred and twenty thousand weight; whilst by
the way of Philadelphia, the badness of the roads, and
the difficulty of crossing the mountains, admit only of
four or five horses to a carriage, and of carrying no more
used, and where the expense of fuel is little more than that of cutting or
collecting it, the steam hoats will diminish the expence of transport at least
one half, and economise one third of the time.
Such an improvement of the navigation, and powerful aid to the
industry of man, will give vigor to enterprise, and open scenes of activity
at present not contemplated, by transporting the ponderous articles whose
value is not sufficient to bear the expenses now incurred, and by drawing
remote parts into a nearer connexion with each other. Such a facility of
transport will present a new inducement to settling in Louisiana, and again
add to the produce of labor and commerce of the river. The inhabitants
Jiave, therefore, the pleasing perspective of soon seeing their navigation con-
ducted at as cheap a rate as on the rivers in Europe, and the Mississipi, like a
liquid highway, carrying down the various produce of the different climates
from the fiftieth to the thirtieth degree of northern latitude, and in exchange
return the necessaries and even luxuries of the Old and New Worlds.
In speaking of the Mississipi there is a good opportunity of making two
striking and important comparisons.
First, on the importance of free navigation: in comparing the Mississipi
with the Danube, which has its head waters in Suabia, but passes Bavaria,
Austria, Hungary, and Turkey, which being rival powers, each one when
they think proper can stop the navigation of their neighbour at their boun-
dary ; and thus the people on its head waters and Hungary, derive little
advantage from its navigation. ; the inhabitants of Louisiana are much more
OP NORTH AMERICA. 12^
than five and twenty hundred weight. At some periods,
also, such as the falls of snow, this communication is
totally interrupted j and when to these inconveniences
are added the still greater of loading and unloading, of
warehouse, the expense and loss of time, and the acci-
dents to which goods are more or less liable by way of
Pittsburgh; we shall be convinced that the conveyance
by New Orleans must obtain a decided superiority.
fortunate by possessing the whole course of the' river. Secondly, comparing
the Mississipi with the river Araazones in South America : the Amazones
runs directly from west to east, and gives the same kind of produce throughout
the whole of its length, therefore never can have a great interior commerce.
On the contrary, the Mississipi runs from north to south, and mingles the
tropical productions with the furs of the north ; every hundred miles gives
new and varied productions, and this circumstance, with a free navigation,
will render that river one of the most active scenes on the globe.
[TVe are indebted for this Note to Mr. Robert
Fulton, at Paris.)
( "5 )
CHAPTER IX.
Continuation of the description of the Ohio. — Lawrence' s Creek. — *
Eagle Creel. — Red Oak Creek.— Lee's Creek. — White Oak
Creek. — Braking Creek. — Hot Creek. — Well Creek .— Selma
Creek. — Observation. — Wild Turkies. — Little Miami. — Cincin^
nati. — Licking Riper. — Fort. — Indian works. — Mill Creek.—
Syms's Station. — Observation.
LEAVING Limestone we proceeded four miles, and
reached Lawrence's Creek on the left ; immediately helow
which is a sand bank that extends from the mouth of the
creek to half the channel of the river. This bank is dan-
gerous only when the waters are neither too high nor
too low ; being, when too high, covered with a sufficient
quantity of water, and when too low, quite bare. By
steering to the right, you are sure of finding twelve or
thirteen feet of water when it is at the lowest, and twenty
when the bank is covered.
126 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
Two miles lower, on the opposite bank, is another
creek, called Eagle Creek j which having passed, the
chain of heights falls off on the right, and that on the
left draws nearer j without ceasing, however, to run
parallel with each other.
Three miles farther, on the right, another creek
empties itself into the river, called Red Oak Creek, which
is omitted in every chart.
Two miles and an half below Red Oak Creek, on the
left, is Lee's Creek, marked too much to the east on
Hutchins's map.
A mile below Lee's Creek is a fine establishment lately
formed, called Lee's Station, which contains five or six
houses.
Opposite Lee's Station, another small creek empties
itself into the Ohio, called Strait Creek. From Red Oak
Creek to Strait Creek the water is from eight to twelve
feet deep, and the navigation good.
After quitting Lee's Station and descending three miles,
we passed, on the right, White Oak Creek. In this
passage it is necessary to keep to the right, to avoid a
considerable alluvion which is situated on the left, op-
posite to the mouth of the creek ; and which is so much
the more dangerous, as it is never uncovered even in
low waters 3 in the channel the depth is ten feet.
OP NORTH AMERICA. 12T
About three miles from White Oak Creek we passed,
upon the left, Braking Creek. The space on the left
between this last and Lee's Creek is much inhabited 3 but
as the heights on the opposite side almost close upon the
banks of the river, leaving but a narrow strip of plain
ground, this side is literally a desert.
Three miles lower down on the right is Bull's Skin
Creek, and three miles farther on the left Locust Creek.
Here the heights fall off and di/ninish; those on the left
leave a considerable space of low land between them and
the river.
The navigation from White Oak Creek to this point
is excellent, and without any embarrassments j the depth
of water is constantly twelve feet.
Hot Creek empties itself into the Ohio three miles
below Locust Creek.
In the course of the next four miles we found several
ravines on both sides, which are dry in summer, and
came to a great bend which the river makes towards the
north.
After passing this bend, the river takes a straight '
direction, without any sinuosity, for the space of nearly
twelve miles ; at the end of which we found two creeks,
directly opposite to each other. That on the right is
called Twelve Miles Creek, and that on the left Well
128 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
Creek. The whole of this space is uninhabited, and
without spring water ; the left particularly is extremely
barren; the greater part of the rivulets marked on the
chart being dry during the summer. The navigation
continues excellent, and the depth of water is every
where from ten to fourteen feet.
Three miles and an half below these two creeks, we
left on the right a very small creek, called Nine Miles
Creek, which is dry during the summer.* Five miles
further on the left is Selma Creek.
Excepting a few huts belonging to hunters, from
Locust Creek to Selma Creek, the whole distance, which
is about thirty miles, was entirely uninhabited. The
depth of water is from ten to twelve feet.
In these deserts we saw a multitude of wild turkies,
and in such numbers that the trees were literally rendered
grey. They are easily to be approached and even killed;
but to shoot several, it is necessary to begin with such as
are on the lowest branches; the rest do not move, and
the whole may be killed in succession by following this
method. On the contrary, in firing among those which
are at the upper part of the tree, the falling of the birds
* Whenever nothing is said respecting the navigation of creeks, they are.
Lways to be considered as not navigable,
OF NORTH AMERICA. 12g
through the branches frightens the rest, and makes them
take flight. Having, from ignorance, fired into the middle
of the tree, I was severely reprimanded by the hunter ;
but his talent in the art of counterfeiting the voice of
every kind of game, soon made amends for my mistake.
Placing himself immediately beneath the same tree, he
imitated so perfectly the noise of the cocks, that in less
than half an hour the tree was covered with turkies,
which gave us easily the means, by following his instruc-
tions, of killing enough for the whole crew.
This bird, in America, is of a singular size and beauty.
Among those we killed we measured some which were
three feet from head to feet; the feathers of the body
are of a fine ashy grey, and those of the neck and under
the wings of a copper color. When exposed to the sun
in a certain direction, the plumage is brilliant as gold.
Though this bird was excessively lean, it weighed thirty
pounds and an half; and I was assured that in the autumn,
when they are fattest, some weigh from forty to forty-five
pounds. The difference between the turkies of America
and Asia, is that the former have longer necks and legs
than the latter, and no black feathers on their bodies.
After passing Selma Creek, the aspect of the country
changes a little ; the heights on the right fall off suf-
ficiently to leave tracts of fine low ground, while those on
l3o SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
the left close upon the river. The country is no longer
a desert, and a great number of new settlements are
formed on the right.
From Selma Creek to the Little Miami River, at the
confluence of which is Columbia, we reckoned four miles.
The spot on which Columbia is situated had been
originally destined to form a town ; but after having
settled several farms, traced the plan of the town, and
formed other establishments, so violent an inundation look
place in 179-i, that notwithstanding the great elevation of
the banks, which are more than forty feet above the
ordinary level of the river, the water rose six feet higher,
entered into the greater part of the houses, and carried
several away. The idea of building a town in this
place was then abandoned, and the great establishment
of Cincinnati was projected nine miles below. Four or
five houses are all that now remain of the town of
Columbia.
Little Miami River is from sixty to eighty yards
wide at its mouth; its banks are extremely steep and
almost perpendicular. It runs on a muddy bottom, formed
of- sand and clay, is navigable only for small boats, and
that only in high waters : the navigation in ordinary
seasons is intercepted by a multitude of great rocks, which
often form strong currents or falls. The lands which this
OF NORTH AMERICA. 101
river waters near its mouth, are subject to inundations
for the space of seven miles, when the country becomes
hilly, and the soil rocky and stony. The whole of this
space is in general without springs, and those which arc
found near the banks are brackish.
On the same side on which Columbia is built, is a sand-
bank adhering to the side of the river, filling up half its
bed, and covering nearly forty acres. On reaching Little
Miami it is necessary to keep on the left side, at the
distance of fifty yards, where there is four or five feet of
water; nearer to the left the water becomes deeper, and
is from ten to twelve feet, close to the bank.
At some distance from Columbia the river makes a
great bend towards the west. The salient point is formed
by an alluvion, which it is highly necessary to avoid, by
keeping to the right, where the river is nine or ten feet
deep. After passing several neat habitations, we reached
Washington or Cincinnati.
Cincinnati is situated on one of the finest spots in
America; the ground on which this town is built rises
gently from the banks of the river. On the opposite shore
falls the river Licking, which waters a part of Kentucky;
at its mouth a small town has been lately built, called
Newport, and which will be the depot for all goods
coming down from Licking. The view of this town and
s 2
102 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
the course of the river present the most pleasing perspec-
tive from Cincinnati.
Behind the town of Cincinnati, and on the height, is-
an old fort wilh four bastions, built of wood, which was
abandoned and become useless after the treaty of peace
made with the Indians ; the frontier line having been
carried very far back into the country.
At the extremity of the town, in the western part, is
an Indian building, having the form of a rotundo. Here
the Indians held their councils, made their sacrifices, and
celebrated their feasts. If we may judge from the size of
the trees which have grown up since its construction, this
senate-house must be very ancient.
Had it not been for the persecutions with which we
were menaced by General Waine, who had received
orders to arrest us, we should have taken a plan of this
building j but it was prudent to keep ourselves on our
guard, and depart as speedily as possible.
The town of Cincinnati, which was begun only five
years since, contains already three hundred families ; this
sudden increase it owes to the abode of the army.* The
spot offers no advantages for commerce; and it is probable
* This army was composed of fifteen hundred men, commanded by
General Waine, and destined to act against the Miami Indians.
OP NORTH AMERICA. l53
that when the army shall have left this place, whatever
industry it possesses will be carried to the little town of
Newport, which, by means of the navigation of the
Licking, offers every kind of advantage for trade.
The lands on both sides of the river are of the finest
quality, and being more than sixty feet above the ordinary
level of the water, are entirely out of the reach of inun-
dation.
From Cincinnati to Mill Creek is two miles and an
half. In this space the heights, which generally run along
the Ohio, fall off to the north and south, and leave a
wide extent of level ground, the fertility of which conti-
nually invites emigrants to settle. Both sides of the river
are already well inhabited. The navigation from Cin-
cinnati to Mill Creek is excellent, with ten or twelve feet
of water.
At Mill Creek the two chains of hills close in again
on the banks of the river, and leave but little extent of
level ground. After eleven miles of very excellent navi-
gation, with a depth of water from nine to fifteen feet,
and passing several ravines which are dry during the
summer, we reached Syms's or North Bend Station,
situated on the right side.
Colonel Syms is the greatest proprietor of land in the
north-west territory, and if the possession of a vast desert
l34 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
is what constitutes wealth, he is certainly one of the most
opulent men in the Union. He has collected on this spot
a number of poor families, to whom he has sold lands
with reserve,* and has already traced the plan of a town,
which is to be called North Bend. The river makes a
very considerable curve in this place.
We saw here, for the first time, several small paro-
quets of the green species, with yellow necks. We were
surprised to find this bird in so northern a latitude ; but
the inhabitants informed us that these paroquets were
never seen but during the summer, and that at the
approach of autumn they disappeared altogether.
The navigation from Syms's station continues excel-
lent; the depth of the water is from ten to twelve feet
during six miles, when we reached the river of the Great
Miami, having passed in our course a few habitations
on the left. The right bank immediately below Syms's
Station is commanded by heights, which at the end of
two miles fall back and leave a large tract of level ground
extending as far as the river of the Great Miami.
* We shall explain in the chapter which treats of the policy of the
^Federal Government, the meaning of selling with reserve.
( 135 )
CHAPTER X.
Great Miami. — Tanner's Creek. — Hogann's Creek. — Woolper's
Creek. — Omission. — Big-bone Creek. — Observation. — Steel's
Creek.— Elk Creek.— Craig's Creek. — Nine Mile Creek.—
Error in Hulchins's map. — Kentucky River. — Little Ken-
tucky. — Omission. — Eighteen Mile Island. — Twelve Mile
Island. — HarrocVs Creek. — Middle Island. — Beautiful pros-
pect.
1 HE Great Miami is from two hundred to two hundred
and forty feet wide at its mouth, from whence, for the
space of fifteen or twenty miles, it is obstructed by a mul-
titude of large trees and sand-banks, which render the
navigation extremely difficult. It deposits a part of these
incumbrancies in the Ohio, which obliges the navigator
on that river when he passes before the mouth of the Great
Miami, to use great precaution in order to avoid those dan-
l36 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
gerous shoals. This is effected by steering towards the
left before reaching the mouth of the river, where a
great sand-bank adheres to the right side, and which is
easily recognised by heaps of immense trees piled one
upon another, and never entirely covered. The channel
during the space of half a mile is in the middle of the
bed of the Ohio, after which it is necessary to steer
to the right to avoid a bank of clay which joins the land
on the left, and extends as far as the middle of the river.
This bank is so much the more dangerous, as it can only
be discerned in seasons of great drought. By following
the track we have indicated, twelve or thirteen feet of
water may be found.
After having passed the Great Miami, the country
becomes extremely flat, particularly on the right, where
the mountains disappear altogether. They lessen also
on the left, but are still descried. The quality of the
land is extremely variable, sometimes sandy, sometimes
mixed with gravel, but generally bad. The trees are
small and stunted.
A considerable creek, called Tanner's Creek, dis-
charges itself into the Ohio on the right, three miles and
an half lower than the Great Miami. It is marked on
Hutchins's map as if it were only a rill j it is nevertheless
forty-five fathoms in breadth, and is navigable for canoes
OF NORTH AMERICA.
1D7
thirty miles above its mouth ; it flows through low lands
which are extremely fertile.
A mile and three quarters below Tanner's Creek we
left on the right a small creek, called Wilson's Creek ;
and another a mile further, omitted altogether on Hut-
chins's map, called Hogann's Creek.
From the Great Miami to this spot the navigation is
every where the same, without impediment, and from
twelve to fifteen feet of water. The mountains on the
right close in towards the bank, whilst those on the left,
which are somewhat higher, fall back.
Opposite Hogann's creek, on the left, are two small
sand-banks, which are dry when the waters are low;
these may be easily avoided by steering a little to the
right, where the soundings give twelve feet of water.
Immediately after passing these two sand-banks, we
reached, on the left, Woolper's Creek, which is navigable
ten miles for canoes. On the right side opposite is another
small creek, called Lohory's Creek: these two last are
three miles from Hogann's Creek.
Three miles below Woolper's Creek we left on the
right an island, not noticed in any map, and of which
we made the tour, in order to ascertain the fact, and to
avoid mistakes, The channel on the right is practicable
l38 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
only when the waters are high, having a sand bar across
it ; on the left there is every where twelve feet of water.
We named this island Paroquet Island, on account of
the immense number of those birds which are found
upon it. Here the Ohio makes considerable windings,
and its banks, which strongly hem in the river, are
quite uninhabited.
Seven miles below Paroquet Island, and on the left,
is Gunpowder Creek; and a mile and a quarter lower,
Landing Creek, which we passed on the left, and pro-
ceeding two miles further reached Big Bone Creek.
Although this creek appears more considerable than
others on the chart, it is only navigable in very great
freshes. When the water is at its ordinary height,
the rocks with which the bed is filled, form falls and
cascades; in summer it is almost dry.
Big Bone Creek is celebrated for the enormous size of
the bones found on its banks, which bones must have
been those of some animal infinitely greater than any of
those known in North America. There is no doubt that
such an animal has existed, but we know nothing of its
origin, character, or species, respecting which so many
fables have been invented by ignorance.
Determined to judge from the evidence of our own
OF NORTH AMERICA. i5y
senses, we repaired to the spot where these bones are
found in the greatest quantity, accompanied by three
men, provided with tools fit for digging.
After traversing the woods six miles, we came to a
great salt marsh, near which is a small salt manufactory.
We were desirous of seeing the bones, but there were
none above ground. Mr. Carnel, proprietor of the
manufactory, led us back to the salt marsh, where he
assured us we should not fail of finding them. We
worked during three days, and obtained twenty-four
pieces of bone of different sizes, of part of which the
following is a description.
1. A piece of the lower jaw-bone, containing two teeth
still well fixed; this piece is one of the most curious
which we brought away : the portion of jaw-bone and
the teeth weighed sixty-four pounds. One of the teeth
was remarkable for six great points, extremely sharp,
growing out from the extremity; the other close to it
was, on the contrary, extremely flat, resembling those
of animals that chew the cud.
2. The extremity of an eye-tooth, and which from
its figure and proportions appears to have been the sixth
part only of a whole tooth; this seemed to have belonged
to a carnivorous animal.
l40 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
5. A tusk, four feet three inches long, of a flat and
crooked figure, and somewhat rounded at the extremity.
4. Three hones making part of a fore leg; the shank ;
the hone from the knee to the shoulder ; and the shoulder
blade to the withers; which three pieces joined together
were twenty-one feet three inches in length. Supposing
this length augmented by the foot and the flesh which
covers in general the withers of quadrupeds, we may
form an idea of the size of the animal. We could not
carry away these three last pieces on account of their
weight; the others wc carried with us to Philadelphia.
No trace or vestige whatever of the foot of this animal
remains; these bones were found only in the marshes,
and at a depth not exceeding four or five feet.
I shall not here notice all the absurd stories which
were related to me respecting the causes of the destruc-
tion of this animal; what appeared to me evident was,
that neither the whites nor the natives could give, any
satisfactory account respecting either its existence, or the
places where its bones are found.
The only probable conjecture is, that these animals
were attracted hither by the salt water; that the Indians,
placing themselves in ambush, killed them on these spots,
and taking what they thought proper of their flesh, left
OF NORTH AMERICA. l4l
their bodies to putrify in the air. The mud and sand
having in process of time covered the remains of the
animal, the bones were preserved by the salt water. The
slight depth at which they are found renders this conjec-
ture highly probable.
A little below Big Bone Creek, and on the opposite
side, is a sand-bank, which may be avoided by keeping
to the right.
Two miles and a quarter from Big Bone Creek, we
passed on the left Steel's Creek- the country on both sides
is very flat.
Five miles and an half lower on the left side, and in
the hollow of the bend of the river, we found a consi-
derable creek without a name. The navigation from Big
Bone Creek to this spot is excellent, and the depth of
water every where from thirteen to fifteen feet.
At the bend of the river, immediately after the creek,
is a small sand-bank, which is dry; it is but little dan-
gerous, since it does not extend very far into the river,
and is very easily discerned when the waters are low.
The depth of water opposite the bank is ten feet.
We proceeded seven miles further, during which
space the navigation is excellent, with never less than
from ten to twelve and twenty feet of water, when we
l4a SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
reached a creek on the right, called Elk Creek. The
mountains alternately fall back and close upon the river ;
the country appeared in general hilly ; the lands are poor,
and totally uninhabited.
Opposite Elk Creek, on the left bank, is Craig's Creek.
After passing this last creek, the mountains disappear,
especially on the right side, where none are to be seen.
We descended twelve miles along the same desert country,
and reached M'Cool's dwelling, which is a small hut,
situated on the left side. The navigation continued
excellent, and the depth of water invariably from fifteen
to twenty feet.
At a small distance on the left, above MeCool's farm,
the land is liable to inundation. Opposite this farm is an
island, called Nine Mile Island, at the end of which, on
the right, is a creek, named Nine Mile Creek. On this
spot two islands are marked in Hutchins's chart; this
is a mistake; we can certify that there is but one.
We. left the island on the right, as the channel on the
left is alone practicable, and in which there is fourteen
and fifteen feet of water.
Five miles and an half below Nine Mile Creek, on
the right, is Indian Creek. During this space there are a
few new clearings on the left, but the right side continues
uninhabited.
OF NORTH AMERICA. l43
We passed Indian Creek, leaving on the left a small
creek without a name. Six miles lower, and on the same
side, is Kentucky River, at the confluence of which is
situated Port William. This small town is built on a
fine terrace, high enough to be out of the reach of inun-
dations.
The appearance of the country from Indian Creek to
Port William changes a little ; the right side of the Ohio
is lined by a small chain of heights, with gentle slopes;
the lands are good, but uninhabited. On the left side
the lands are low, and frequently swampy. The navi-
gation from Indian Creek is excellent, with twelve to
eighteen feet of water.
Two miles below Port William we passed on the
right Little Kentucky, which is a creek navigable for
canoes fifteen miles. Here the heights on the right entirely
disappear, leaving a vast plain. On the left a number of
small hills close upon the banks of the river.
We proceeded six miles, leaving on the left another
creek, called Battle Creek, and reached Indian Kentucky
Creek, situated on the right; beyond this creek the heights
on the right side approach the banks, while those on the
left run on at a small distance, but parallel with the
river. We descended four miles between these slopes,
and found two creeks, which empty themselves into the
j 44 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
Ohio, opposite each other. Three miles and an half
below these creeks, we reached another creek, situated
on the right, and which forms a kind of torrent. At the
mouth of this creek is a sand-bank, which we left on
the right.
Ten miles lower another creek empties itself on the
left side. In the space of seventeen miles and an half,
that is, from Indian Kentucky Creek, we passed on the
left three rivulets, of which no mention is made in
Hutchins's Chart ; the country is altogether uninhabited.
A mile below this last rivulet we passed four creeks
on the left, and one on the right, and reached an island,
called Eighteen Mile Island. None of these rivulets or
creeks, reckoning from Indian Kentucky Creek, are na-
vigable, and they have no particular name.
During this space the country varies extremely ; some-
times swampy, sometimes high and rocky, and in general
without springs; the right side is destitute of water.
The navigation from Indian Kentucky Creek to
Eighteen Mile Island is constantly good, the depth of
water being never less than from twelve to thirteen and
fifteen feet.
We passed this island on the left, taking care to keep
at a small distance, it being surrounded with shoals. We
OP NORTH AMERICA. li5
found in the middle of the channel ten and twelve feet of
water.
At the extremity of the island two creeks, neither of
which are navigable, empty themselves opposite to each
other. We proceeded seven miles between two chains
of heights, which line both sides and entirely hem in the
river, and reached a creek on the right, which rolls over
a bed of rock, and is not navigable. The other creeks
marked on the chart are only ravines.
Immediately after passing the creek, the heights dis-
appear j the banks for the space of twenty or twenty-four
yards from the river are low and swampy, but the ground
rising gradually, secures the inland country from inun^
dations.
Two miles from this creek are two small settlements
on each bank, and directly opposite each other. Two
miles lower we left two ravines on the right, and reached
Twelve Mile Island. From Eighteen Mile Island to this
spot the navigation is constantly good, with a depth of
water from ten to fifteen feet. We passed Twelve Mile
Island on the left; the channel on this side being imprac-
ticable, while that on the right uniformly yields eighteen
feet of water.
Four miles below Twelve Mile Island, on the left, a
very considerable creek empties itself, called Harrod's
vol. i, p
l46 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
Creek, which we ascended twelve miles in the canoe,
and found every where two, three, and four feet of water.
The country it flows through is low, and liable in freshes
to inundations.
A mile and three quarters below Harrod's Creek, and
on the same side, is another creek not navigable, called
Goose Creek, opposite which is situated Middle Island.
The navigation from Twelve Mile Creek to this spot
continues excellent, with a depth of water from twelve
to fifteen feet; although both passages are good, that on
the left is preferable, having from ten to twelve feet of
water, and at the end of the island from fifteen to twenty;
that on the right being narrower, is liable at all times to
be choked with drift-wood.
After passing the island, a most noble prospect presents
itself to the view. The river, which is here considerably
broader, winds majestically through an extent of beautiful
meadow ground, covered with the softest verdure. These
decorated banks are already inhabited by a number of
planters; but the gentle current of the river is soon
interrupted by the rapids below, which divide it into
several branches, and change the soft murmurs of its
waters into hoarse and plaintive sounds. These different
streams, after freeing the obstacles which divided them,
meet again, and separate no more till they reach the
ocean.
OP NORTH AMERICA. x47
The mountains now totally disappear, and fine low
lands extending from the banks are covered with a mul-
titude of neat habitations. On the right is a fort. On
the horizon, and in the prolongation of the course of the
river, is situated Louisville, which terminates this fine
perspective ; but the attention is powerfully seized by the
hoarse and majestic noise produced by the rushing of the
waters down the cataract. After having enjoyed this great
and sublime spectacle for the space of eight miles, we
arrived at Louisville.
( »*9 )
CHAPTER XI,
Louisville. — Cassariia.—Stuberts Fort. — Clarksville. ■— Rapid. *»
Sublime trait of character. — Temperature. — Salt River.—
Otter Creel. — Whyo-Pio-Mingo. — Falling Spring. — French
Creek. — Buck Creek. — Difficult Passage. — Windot's Creels.
— Blue Creek. — Dangerous Sand-bank. — Fines. — Helm's
Creek. — Dardada Island. — Bad passage. — Little Yellow
Creek. — Harden' s Creek. — Error in the American Maps. —
Clover Creek. — Creek omitted. — Slate Bank. — Immense quan-
tity of Game.— Yellow Bank.— Little Pigeon's Creek.— Island
inaccurately marked.
-LOUISVILLE contains about sixty or eighty houses,
built for the most part of wood; it is situated on a
platform on the left, in the hollow part of the bend
of the river, and opposite the fall. Those who laid
the foundation of this town consulted rather the beauty
l5o SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
of its situation, which is extremely pictoresque, from
the prolongation of the course of the Ohio on the one
side, and the view of the rapids on the other, than
the convenience of travellers; for this town being placed
very far below the point where the current begins, and
on the opposite side of the channel, all the vessels which
touch there to take pilots are obliged to ascend the river
more than two miles above Louisville, to gain the current
on the opposite side, which leads to a considerable expense
and much loss of time. This disadvantage in the situation
of Louisville is no doubt the reason which has prevented
it from increasing, and which induced Mr. Lachassague,
a Frenchman by birth, who perceived this inconvenience,
to lay the foundations of another town on the right side
of the river, immediately at the head of the fall. All the
boats which are to pass the current, commonly touch at
Cassania, which is the name of the new town, consisting
only of two or three houses, and a store.
A mile below Cassania, and on the right, is Fort
Stuben, of the same form and construction as those which
we have already described; it is garrisoned by sixty men
of the continental troops.
Below the current, and on the same side, is another
little town, called Clarksville, still worse situated in
every respect than Louisville. The spot on which it is
OF NORTH AMERICA. 101
built is liable to inundations, and as there are many
shoals on this side, the boats which intend stopping after
passing the fall, are obliged to go on the side opposite to
Lower Landing, not being able to approach this place.
This town, therefore, is on the decline, and contains at
present only five or six huts.
The fall is occasioned by a great bank of calcareous
stone. Two miles above, the river widens much, run3
gently, and its bed becomes deeper. Its breadth is three
quarters of a mile, and its depth from twelve to fifteen
feet. Near the fall the islands and rocks by which it is
formed take up nearly three quarters of the bed of the
river, and fill up and obstruct all the side on the south-
east; the waters have no other passage in dry seasons
than on the side of the north-west; but as they are much
confined, and the plane over which they roll is very
shelving, and they have to make their way across every
obstacle, they rush along with the greatest impetuosity
and violence.
On the side which is obstructed there are only five or
six inches of water, and often the bank of stones is dry.*
In the channel where the boats pass, the depth of water
varies, but is never less than from four to five feet : this
* The greater part of these banks of stones is covered with petrifactions.
l52 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
deplh would become more than sufficient to pass at all times
with security, if the windings of the channel -were not
so abrupt and numerous, and the current so strong; but
in the present state of the passage, the pilot has scarcely
time to steer, or the boat to change its direction. We had
ourselves a disagreeable experience of this, since, notwith-
standing the skill and attention of our pilot, we touched
on one of these points against a rock, which took off three
feet of our keel.
In the season of floods these inconveniences disappear,
and during eight months in the year there is water enough
to pass the double channel with all kinds of boats.
We cannot leave Louisville without relating a cir-
cumstance which does honor to the American character,
and which would not disgrace the annals of the finest
days of Rome.
A person of great military talents, and who had ac-
quired considerable reputation in the war which procured
independence to America; who had also gained from the
natives almost the whole of that immense country which
forms now the Western States; the rival, in short, of
General Washington ; had retired to Louisville after the
peace, either from caprice or discontent against the go-
vernment at that time, in the hope of ending his days
tranquilly in the midst of his family, and on the spot
OF NORTH AMERICA. l53
which had been the scene of his atchievements. But un-
happily, idleness and listlessness, inseparable companions,
followed him in his retreat. He who is conversant only
with military affairs, who knows nothing of agriculture or
commerce, and has no taste for the charms of nature, is
soon wearied of still life. Drinking and intoxication
became the sole resource of this officer, and he carried
this degrading passion to such an excess, that he was often
found lying in a state of stupified drunkenness in the
streets. We were the witnesses of a scene the most hu-
miliating for a man who once inspired sentiments of high
veneration,* but now excited only those of pity. We
returned about seven in the evening from taking a walk
in the environs of Louisville, when we perceived, in the
midst of the square, a number of persons who were
crowding around something that lay extended on the
ground, on which a blanket had been thrown, and which
a man was about to take up and carry off. Drawing
near to satisfy our curiosity, I asked the man, who ap-
* This veneration was so great among the Indians against whom he had
made war, that when the peace was concluded, several tribes sent deputations
of their young warriors, the object of whose visit was to touch him, and
chiefly to cut off some shred of his cloaths. « With this manitou (talisman),"
said they, in returning to their families, « we are sure of being always brave
" and great warriors."
VOL. I. x
l54 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
peared to me to be a shoemaker, what was the matter-
He turned towards me with a look expressive of sorrow,
and said, " Do you not see, Sir, it is that hero, that great
" man ; he has forgotten at this moment the important
" services which he has rendered us ; but it is our duty
" to remember them : I cover him thus, to preserve him
" from the contempt of the people." He had, indeed,
as soon as he saw him fall, run out of his shop with a
woollen blanket, which he threw over him, and carried
him into his house, where we were witnesses of the affec-
tionate care with which he treated him.
Inactivity for a military man, or for a man who has
no knowledge but that of war, is one of the greatest evils
he can experience ; not only because he is condemned to
idleness, but because in the profession of arms, reputation
diminishes the moment it ceases to augment.
The life of a public functionary, to end with glory
and dignity, ought to be employed in doing always some-
thing better than what he has done before. I know that
it may be objected, that adversity destroys energy, and
crushes those on whom it weighs. This may be true,
but it is true only with ordinary minds : he who possesses
fortitude is shielded against misfortune ; it is in adversity
alone that true dignity of mind is displayed, and it is in
that season only that a great man assumes the rank for
which he was destined by nature.
OF NORTH AMERICA. l55
During the time we remained at Louisville, the ther-
mometer was constantly at twenty-six, twenty-seven, and
twenty-eight degrees, of Reaumur. We observed that
during the night it descended from five to six degrees.
The winds, of which we took note daily since our de-
parture from Pittsburgh, were always in nearly the same
quarter of the circle, from west to south. We have since
been assured, that in this season, unless there be storms,
the winds never turn to the east; consequently, the
navigator may be sure, that from May to October they
are always in the same direction.
After passing the fall, we found Sand Island, and a
small creek, called Silver Creek, on the right, and oppo-
site the island. The bed of the river below the fall
is very narrow: the depth of water is from eight to four-
teen feet, the stream very slow, and both sides flat and
sandy.
Three miles from Louisville the banks on the right are
high and perpendicular like cliffs, but those on the left
continue to be flat, and are swampy to a very great
distance. We perceived nothing all around us but rocks,
and low and sandy ground.
We descended twenty-eight miles without finding a
single habitation, leaving on our right several rivulets or
ravines, and reached Salt River. In this space almost the
x 2
l56 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
whole of the country on the left side is without springs.
The navigation is good ; the depth of water is every where
from ten to fifteen feet.
The current of Salt River is extremely slow during
the space of seventeen miles from its mouth, with from
twenty-five to thirty feet of water; but farther up the
navigation is stopped by a fall, beyond which it is again
navigable twenty miles for canoes. It runs through a very
fine country, and high enough two miles from its mouth to
be out of the reach of inundations : there are already several
settlements three miles from the mouth of this river.
Six miles beyond Salt River is Otter's Creek, which
is not navigable. The aspect of the country continues
the same, low and swampy. The depth of water from Salt
Creek is six, seven, eight, ten, and fifteen feet.
Five miles from Otter's Creek, and on the left side, is
Whio-Pio-Mingo's Station, which is as yet composed of
only two small huts: these are the only habitations we
perceived since we left Louisville. Both sides are here bor-
dered with hills of gentle declivity and of varied beautiful
forms ; but the soil which covers them is of little value.
Two miles and three quarters lower on the same side,
we found Doe's Run Rivulet. The navigation from Otter's
Creek continues good : the soundings were from eight
to twelve feet.
OF NORTH AMERICA. ify
From Doe's Run to Falling Spring, on the left, is
four miles. Falling Spring consists of waters which
filter through beds of calcareous stone, on a breadth of
twenty-four yards. The volume of water is considerable,
and it gushes out with force; these waters are the best,
the most limpid, and the freshest we met with in our
voyage on the Ohio. The lands opposite Falling Spring
are low and liable to inundations. The left side is lined
with rocks from twenty to thirty feet high ; between
which chain the lands are also low and swampy.
We continued our course seven miles further, leaving
several ravines on both sides, and reached French Creek,
which is dry during the summer, and is never navigable.
After passing this creek, we found on the left a chain of
lofty heights, composed of great masses of rock. The
lands on the opposite side are low and swampy; the soil
is sand mixed with gravel.
Six miles lower down is a small creek, called Buck
Creek, not navigable. Here a chain of rocks rises on the
right, and the Ohio runs between two great cliffs that are
i often perpendicular. The soundings from Falling Spring
never varied between ten and twelve feet.
Four miles lower we reached a small island, very ill
described on the map. This is only an alluvion on which
were a few willows, and which is covered in high waters,
i58 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
This island is separated from the right bank by a channel
which is fordable during the summer j the channel on the
left is from ten to twelve feet deep.
Two miles lower we came to a second island, some-
what distant from the left bank than the other is from
the right. It is high out of the water, and covered with
very fine wood. We took the channel on the right ; that
on the left being full of shoals, with only one or two feet
of water. The right is every where from nine to ten feet
deep, and without any impediments.
As soon as we had passed the point of the island, we
were obliged to turn short to the left, to avoid the narrows
which are on the right, and which are easily seen by the
breakers j and in which there is only two feet water, and
sometimes not more than one.
Ignorant of this danger we took the channel on the
left, and struck on a sand-bank, from which we should
have had great difficulty to have extricated ourselves, but
for a violent squall, which filled our sail at the moment,
and relieved us from our dangerous position.
In such a circumstance, with a boat as large as ours,
the half of our crew sick, and in the midst of a desert,
we ought to have waited for the autumnal floods. Without
such precautions those who undertake a summer expe-
dition of this kind may perish from want of food, or be
OP NORTH AMERICA. l5q
killed by the Indians, examples of which are not un-
usual.
Opposite to the island and the narrows on the right,
is a creek, called Windot's Creek. It is that which forms
the narrows which we have just mentioned by the quan-
tity of great stones which it rolls down. This creek takes
its source in the heights, is navigable for ten miles, and
may become very useful at some future period for the
establishment of various kinds of manufactories.
Below this creek the Ohio makes a great bend towards
the south-west, taking its course continually between two
rocky mountains, high and steep.
Eleven miles below Windot's Creek is Preston's Creek,
which is not navigable.
Two miles and an half lower we left on the right a
small creek, called Blue Creek, which is fit only to turn
mills, and which overflows the low lands.
Both sides of the Ohio begin here to be less hemmed
in; the left side is altogether disengaged from every kind
of height for two or three miles inland. The depth of
water varies from eight to ten, fifteen, and twenty-five
feet.
A little lower, and almost opposite the creek, is a
sand-bank which stretches far into the river, and which
we avoided by steering to the right : the soundings are from
l6o SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
twelve to fifteen feet. On the left are very fine grounds
covered with lofty oak and beech j but in the season of floods
this ground is under water to the depth of four or five feet.
The right side, on the contrary, is lined with heights,
covered with great masses of perpendicular rocks, which
assume at times very extraordinary forms, from the united
action of the weather, the waters, and the sun. No
springs or rivulets water these banks \ those described in
the charts are only ravines that carry off the rains.
In the different excursions which we made on both
sides the river, we found, among other productions, the
vine in great abundance, but not of that kind which is
common in America, twining around the trees as high as
the top. These vines, on the contrary, are low> creeping,
and resemble in the leaf those of Madeira. The stalk is
not more than from two feet and a half to three feet; it
grows in a gravelly and stony soil and always in groups.
As it was only the month of July, we could not judge of
the quality of its grapes; but we were assured that they
were generally black, and of a very fine flavor, which
leaves no doubt that if it were cultivated it would become
equal to that of Europe. The large raspberry grows ajso
in this place in great abundance.
Although the navigation be in general good at all
seasons from Louisville, those who undertake the voyage
OF NORTH AMERICA. l6l
without a pilot cannot be too strongly recommended to
avoid carefully, when the waters are low, all the points ;
that is, wherever the river makes a bend, to steer on
the opposite side, the angle being in general composed of
alluvions or" sand-banks.
Seven miles below Blue Creek, on the left side, is
Helm's Creek, which is nothing but a deep ravine, and in
which during the summer there is not six inches of water.
The country through which it flows is low, marshy, and
for most part covered with sand and gravel. The depth of
water from Blue Creek is from twenty to twenty-five feet.
We proceeded two miles to a*i island omitted on every
chart, but which one of our Canadians called Dardada
Island (the Indian name). This island deserves the more
to be known, as it is situated exactly in the middle of the
river, and is surrounded with a great quantity of sand-
banks, which are not always visible. When we were at
the distance of half a mile from this island, the depth of
water, which was twenty-five feet, suddenly decreased to
eight or nine. We steered, therefore, to the right, leaving
the island on our left, and followed the channel, which yielded
from ten to fourteen feet of water. Had we approached
nearer the island we should have found not more
than one or two feet. This transition being very abrupt,
VOL. i. y
162 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
we used the precaution of entering the passage with the
lead in our hand.
At the extremity of the island we found three sand-
banks, which were dry; two on the right, and one at the
end of the island: this last sand-bank we passed on our
left; the two others on the right. The channel is eight
and nine feet deep.
Opposite to the two sand-banks is a small creek, called
by the Canadians Mirebelais; it is totally omitted on the
chart.
The river makes a bend towards tBe south; we pro-
ceeded eight miles, and "found on the left a creek, called
Little Yellow Creek.
At day-break we -were surprised by a very thick fog,
which continued until ten o'clock; the night was so cold,
that we were obliged to use our blankets. The weather
was perfectly calm.
Four miles Jower, after passing on our left three small
ravines, we reached on the same side Arden's Creek.
This creek is very narrow at its mouth, but there is water
the whole year; we ascended five miles in the canoe,
when our further progress was interrupted by a slight
fall. During the late war with the Indians, the Americans
built a small fort at its source, to prevent their incursions
into Kentucky, which they usually made by this creek.
OP NORTH AMERICA. l6j
Between Yellow Creek and Arden's Creek, there are
a great number of sand-banks on the Ohio, which are
covered with water. It is always necessary, therefore, to
keep in the middle, where there are generally six, seven,
and ten feet water. When the soundings pass suddenly
from six to three feet, the track of the channel is missed j
all the various depths of water in this passage have been
scrupulously noted in the new chart.
Below Arden's Creek the bed of the river grows
wider, but the aspect of the country continues the same ;
the lands are low and marshy, sometimes sandy and
strewed with great masses of rock, known by the name
ofmillstones.
Two miles and an half below Arden's Creek there is
an island described in all the American maps; we looked
for it in vain, and are convinced that no such island
exists.
Nine miles further down, we passed three small creeks
on the left, which have no name ; we called that in the
middle Bear's Creek, having on this spot killed a bear.
The soundings during this passage gave from ten to twelve
feet; the navigation is excellent.
Five miles and an half below Bear's Creek, and on the
same side, another very considerable creek empties itself
called Clover's Creek. It is very much hemmed in, and
l64 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
may be about twenty yards wide at its mouth : it would
be navigable for many miles at all seasons, but for the
immense quantity of trees with which its bed is choked
up. The lands through which it flows are extremely fine,
but as this part is liable to inundations, the country is a
desert.
Six miles from Clover Creek, on the right side, is a
very fine creek, entirely forgotten on the charts, and which
has water the whole year. The lands through which it
flows are of the first quality j we called it Jefferson's
Creek. *
A few miles below this creek, the river, which had
been so long hemmed in, and, as it were, compressed by
the rocks, opens suddenly and flows broad with a majestic
course. The heights which rose on both sides, are re-
placed by lands of the first quality, but swampy and
devoid of springs.
On the left side is a continued level covered with
wood, and intersected by small lakes, the stagnant waters
of which will render this part of the country for a long
while very unhealthy, and prevent the settlement of
emigrants.
We proceeded thirteen miles below Jefferson's Creek,
leaving several ravines dry on both sides, with a small pond,
and reached Anderson's Creek,, situated on the right ; it
OP NORTH AMERICA. l65
is pretty large, and navigable at all times to some distance
for canoes. The country is still a desert. The soundings
for the last fourteen miles were successively ten, fifteen,
twenty-five, twelve, and eight feet : the navigation good.
Two miles below Anderson's Creek, on the right side,
is a bank of slate of a very fine kind, and which sketches
along the river for nearly two miles. The left side con-
tinues flat and swampy. We proceeded, reckoning from
the slate-bank, eight miles further, sailing between two
sand-banks, which are always covered with water, and
which we avoided by keeping in the middle of the river
till we reached Blackford's Creek. The depth in the
channel is six, eight, > ten, twelve, and fifteen feet : care
must be taken to keep'at a distance from the sides, when
the soundings are less than six feet.
Two miles below Blackford's Creek a large sand-bank,
projecting from the left side, extends itself for nearly
three miles : we directed our course to the right, where
the soundings gave eight, ten, and twelve feet. The
country continued desert and marshy.
In the evening the weather was stormy; the moon
appeared pale, with rays diverging like the tail of a.
peacock. The Canadians predicted a tempest; and about
midnight we were awakened by so violent a storm, that
it was with difficulty we could fasten our boat so as to
l66 SURVEY OF THE WE3TERN RIVERS
prevent it from striking on the banks. The wind came
from the S. S. E. and blew with great impetuosity. It
was impossible for us the next day to continue our route ;
the waves forced back the current with such violence, that
it drove our boat up the stream in spite of our oars. Both
sides of the river were covered with game, chiefly water
fowl, and in such quantities that it seemed scarcely pos-
sible to augment the number: geese, ducks, swans, herons,
and roebucks, were mingled together, and lined both
sides of the Ohio. We took advantage of the delay in
our journey, and employed ourselves in hunting. At five
in the evening, when the weather became more calm, we
proceeded, after having killed more game than our crew
could consume in eight days.
We passed several small rivulets on both sides, and
at six miles from the end of the sand-bank, reached two
islands, the first of which is omitted in every chart, and
the second improperly placed: this last is uninhabited.
We left them on our right. The channel is from eight
to ten, eighteen, and nineteen feet deep.
Opposite to the extremity of the second island, and
on the left side, at six miles distance from the head of the
first, is Yellow Bank, which is a small settlement, con-
sisting of eight or ten families.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 167
Having doubled the last island, we steered to the right,
in order to avoid the shallows which run along the left
side. In keeping the middle of the channel we found
fifteen and sixteen feet of water.
Three miles farther we reached an island, and three
miles lower two others; these last are opposite each
other, and intercept almost the whole of the river for
the space of a mile and an half? We passed the three
islands on the left, steering to the right, and taking care
not to approach them, as they are surrounded with sand-
banks and shoals. This passage requires the whole atten-
tion of the pilot, and in no case should the channel on the
left be taken. The soundings gave four, five, seven, and
eight feet of water; when it is less than four feet, the
direction must be changed to avoid striking. The country
is still uninhabited and marshy.
We continued our progress seven miles, with a good
navigation, and reached Little Pigeon's Creek, situated
_ on the right side, but which is navigable at no time of
the year. It is at this point that a road has just been
opened to the post of St. Vincent's, on the Wabash.
Four miles lower is an island which is two miles and
an half long. On every chart it is placed too much to the
south-west. We left jt on the right, and steered to the
left between that and a sand-bank, which projects from
l68 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
the left side into the middle of the river, and which is
always covered. The channel in the middle is from ten
to eighteen feet, hut near the bank it is only three feet.
The channel on the right is impracticable when the
waters are low.
Three miles and an half below this island, the Green
River throws itself into the Ohio.
{ i69 )
CHAPTER XII,
Green River. — Islands omitted. — Pigeon's Creek. — Red Bank. —
Characteristic Trait.— Diamond's Island.-— Great Island.—
High Land Creek. — Extraordinary Swell. — Particular de-
scription of the River Wabash.— Post. St. Vincent's. — Higk
Country.— Vermillion River.— Ouiah Rapid.— Eel River.
Great Rapid.— River of the Great Calumet.— Rapid of St.
Cyr.— River Mussissinoec.—L'Hdpital — Remarkable rock.—
River Salaminique.—The little River.— Portage of Miamis.—
Wolf Rapid.— General Observations.
CjREEN River, one of the great branches of the Ohio,
is four hundred yards wide at its mouth, and is navigable
one hundred and fifty miles for barges drawing three
feet of water. This river traverses a considerable part of
Kentucky ; but as the lands are very low and often over-
flowed, there are no habitations on its banks below a
vol. r. z
170 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
little town, called Vienna, fifty miles above its junction
with the Ohio.
It is, however, to be remarked, that the country on
the left of this river is somewhat more elevated than that
on the right, and even hilly. It is generally thought that
this spot will suit well the cultivation of the vine, which
is here of a quality, in its wild state, very different from
that in other parts of the continent, as we have already
explained. The country in this part is a desert.
Immediately after passing Green River we found two
islands opposite to each other, one of which was nearly
three miles long. One of these islands only is noted in
the charts; the other has been entirely forgotten. The
channel on the right, between the largest of these islands
and the land, is dry during the summer; that in the
middle is choked up with drift-wood and sand-banks.
We took the channel on the left, and kept as close as
possible to the bank, where we found fourteen, fifteen,
and eighteen feet of water.
The appearance of the country after passing Green
River is the same; low swampy lands, mixed with sand
and gravel.
Ten miles below Green River we left on our right a
creek, called Pigeon's Creek, which is navigable in high
waters for canoes, but only for a few miles.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 171
After passing Pigeon's Creek, the Ohio turns towards
the south. We kept near the right bank, in order to avoid
a large sand-bank, which extends itself from the left.
Having doubled the point and the sand-bank, we found a
small island of sand, which we left on our right ; and six
miles lower, reckoning from Pigeon's Creek, we reached
another small island, which is separated from the right
side by only a very narrow channel. We left it on the
right, taking care immediately after passing it to steer to
the right, in order to avoid a very large sand-bank which
extends from the left. We continued descending six
miles, leaving on the right another sand-bank, which was
dry, and which is situated in the midst of the river, and
reached Red Bank.
Carefully following the channel from Pigeon's Creek
to this point, we found the water never less than from
twelve to eighteen feet.
Red Bank is a small establishment recently formed,
consisting of thirty or thirty-five families, and is the only
spot on the banks of the Ohio, from Louisville, secure
from inundation in high waters. It may, therefore, be
considered as a valuable position in a military point of
view. A fort placed at Red Bank would be extremely
useful to stop whatever ascends the Ohio, since the channel
172 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
passes at the foot of the left bank, which is a cliff, and by
its elevation commands both this and the opposite side.
The inhabitants of Red Bank are only hunters, or
what are called foresters. They cultivate no ground, but
subsist on the produce of their hunting and fishing, and
are almost naked. The following trait may serve to give
an idea of their character. At our arrival we found a
number of these hunters who had assembled to regale
themselves on the banks of the river with the spoils of
their chace on the preceding day, when they had killed
a very fine buffaloe. They had drunk plentifully of
whisky, and though the greater number Avere intoxicated,
they were amusing themselves in firing with carabines
against a piece of plank tied to a tree, which is called
shooting at a mark. The board, probably ill fastened,
fell at each shot ; one of the party at length losing patience,
took it up, and placing it between his legs, called out to
his companions: " Now, fire away!" which they did
immediately, and always with the same address; whilst
he who held the board exclaimed at each shot : " It is in ! "
This amusement, which lasted two hours without any
accident taking place, may appear incredible to those
who are not acquainted with the singular skill of these
men ; but it is sufficient to observe that they will aim at
OF NORTH AMERICA. \^"b
the head of a squirrel or a turkey, and very rarely miss.
The seeming intrepidity of the man who held the board
becomes, therefore, only an ordinary circumstance.
Two miles and an half below Red Bank, we passed
an island on our left. The channel on the right is alone
practicable; the other side being encumbered with drift-
wood and sand. The soundings on the right are from
fifteen to eighteen feet.
Two miles below the head of the island we steered to
the left, to avoid a sand-bank on the right, and which
extends half way across the river. Two miles further
the river makes a bend towards the west. Before we
reached the point of this turning we steered to the right,
to avoid a sand-bank which juts out from the land; and
after descending five miles further than the salient point
of this bank, that is, fourteen miles from Red Bank, we
reached a large island, called Diamond's Island. This
island is one of the most considerable, and the most
elevated we had seen on the Ohio ; it is four miles long,
and is situated in the middle of the river, surrounded with
a large quantity of sand-banks. The two passages which
it forms are equally good : we took that on the left; never-
theless, in ascending the river that on the right is to be
preferred, because the stream is much less rapid. The
passage on that side is from nine to ten feet deep.
174 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
Opposite the middle of the island, on the left, is a small
but increasing establishment, consisting of five or six huts.
After passing the point of the island, we found two
large sand-banks placed in the same direction, that is, in
the middle of the river. We left them on the right, and
at the extremity of these two banks, which are three
miles long, we found a small island situated near the left
side, in a bay: we steered to the right, between the end
of the last sand-bank and the island.
Here the river makes a bend towards the south-east.
After doubling the point, we found on the left a very
considerable island at seven miles distance from Diamond
Island. The channel during this passage is nine and ten
feet deep : this navigation requires constant attention.
We passed this last island on our left ; the channel on
the right being the only one navigable.
Ten miles below the head of this last island we reached
a creek, called Highland Creek, at the mouth of which is
a small settlement, composed of three families. The
navigation continues good during these last ten miles, if
care be taken to keep the middle of the river, in order to
avoid the different sand-banks situated on both sides : the
soundings are ten, twelve, and eighteen feet.
The river in this place was agitated by a great swell,
which appeared to us very extraordinary, and perfectly
OF NORTH AMERICA. !75
resembling those which take place in the colonies before
spring tides; as the swell came from below, we imagined
that it was the effect of some violent gust in the Mississipi,
and towards the mouth of the Ohio. It was so strong, that
our canoe, which was astern, sunk. The wind blew
from the south with an excessive rain.
We proceeded seven miles and an half, and reached
the mouth of Wabash River, opposite which is situated
a great island, called Wabash Island, two miles and an
half long, and which is high and well wooded.
Both passages are equally good; we chose that on the
right, in order to inspect the mouths of this river. The
depth of water in the right channel is from ten to fifteen
feet.
The mouth of the Wabash is situated thirty-seren
degrees forty-one minutes north. It is about seven hun-
dred yards wide, and continues the same breadth as far
as Post St. Vincent's: the distance from the mouth of the
Wabash* to Post St. Vincent's is computed at sixty leagues,
though in a straight line it is not forty. In the whole of
this space there are only two rapids, one twelve leagues
from St. Vincent's, and half a mile above White Kiver,
* The following description was given to me by a barge-master, who
made this voyage twice every year.
176 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
and the other fifteen leagues from the mouth of this last
river, called the Great Chain, where may be seen, when
the waters are very low, a long line of rocks, which at a
certain distance resembles a mill-dyke. This chain of
rocks has forced the waters to form a channel on the left
side, where boats may pass at all times, excepting the
winter and during the ice.
From Post St. Vincent's to the High Land is forty
leagues, and the navigation excellent. From the High
Land to Vermillion River is reckoned twenty leagues, and
the navigation continues good. From thence to Ouiah is
twenty leagues, and the navigation improves.
From Ouiah to the river Tipiconow are six
leagues* of excellent navigation, and from thence to Pisse
Vache two leagues. At this place is a rapid, about ten
fathoms in length, and which sometimes has not ten inches
of water. This is the first point where the navigation
becomes difficult.
Four leagues higher is another rapid from fifteen to
twenty fathoms in length, with eight inches of water : the
channel is always on the left side in ascending. Six leagues
beyond this last rapid is Little Rock River. There is a
* In the course of this description, and in conformity to the terms of
distance used in the country, we substitute the word league for that of mile.
OF NORTH AMERICA. If]
rapid at this spot, extremely violent, but with sufficient
water. About this place the river is sometimes shallow
and sometimes deep, according to the depot of sand which
the waters have left or washed away.
From thence to Eel River are two leagues of good
navigation, and a league higher is the Great Rapid; its
length is twenty fathom, with six, seven, and eight inches
of water at most; and above is a shallow, half a league
long, with six inches of water.
Four leagues beyond the Great Rapid is the river of
the Great Calumet. Here is another rapid, ten fathoms in
length, with a sufficient depth of water.
From the river of the Great Calumet to a small island,
without a name, is one league; this island must be left
on the right in ascending, and above is a shallow with six
inches of water.
From this small island to the rapid St. Cyr is three
leagues: this rapid is half a league in length, and with
sufficient water.
From this rapid to the river Mussissinoe is two leagues.
Here is another rapid, twelve fathoms long, with twelve
inches of water.
From hence to l'Hopital is seven leagues, during which
there is very little water; the barks are obliged to unload
vol. i. a a
I78 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN- RIVERS
during the space of a league. At this spot is a rock of an
enormous size, situated on the northern side.
From PHopital to the river Salaminique is three
leagues. Here is a small island; the passage is on the
southern side, and there is a rapid of three fathoms
length, with sufficient water.
From thence to Bended Maple one league. From
Bended Maple to the Little River four leagues.
Leaving here the Wabash, we followed the course of
the Little River. From its mouth to the village of the
Miamis, situated at its source, is twelve leagues : in this
place is a portage of three leagues and an half to reach
the sources of the river of the Miamis. From thence to
Wolf Rapid is fifty-one leagues, during which there are
a great number of small rapids, but with sufficient water
to leave the navigation free. At Wolf Rapid the boats
unload only in dry seasons.
From Wolf Rapid to Roche-de-bout is three leagues:
here is another rapid three leagues long, but every where
sufficient depth of water.
From Roche -de -bout to Lake Erie is six leagues.
From thence to the river Detroit twelve leagues, and to
Detroit Fort six leagues.
In the season of the high waters, as in the months of
March, April, and May, there is sufficient water at the
OF NORTH AMERICA. ija
portage of the Miamis. It is in this place that the waters
divide, and run on one side into Lake Erie, and on the
other into the Wabash. It is to be noted that all the
depths of the rapids and shallows have been calculated
when the waters were at the lowest during the year, none
of the rapids being seen or felt when the waters are high.
From the mouth of the Wabash great barges are used,
which carry from twenty to thirty thousand weight, as
far as St. Vincent's j but from this post barks are em-
ployed in carrying four, five, and six thousand weight.
St. Vincent's is a small mean village^pntaining one
hundred families, the greater part French, ruined by
General Clark during the last war, as were also the Illinois.
A bad wooden fort, in the usual mode of construction, is
built here.
The course of the Wabash is in general slow; it tra-
verses a fine country sufficiently elevated, and less liable
to inundations than any other parts of this continent.
Vast natural meadows form a part of this country.
The Wabash rolls over a bed of sand and gravel, in which
precious stones are often found : the emerald and topaz
have been observed to be of the number. The banks arc
clothed with fine woods of the same kind as those of the
Beautiful River or the Ohio, and the black and white
Aa 2
l8o SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
•mulberry grow in the greatest profusion on this spot.
Salt springs and coal-mines have also been discovered.
The inhabitants of Post St. Vincent's cultivate in
general wheat, maize, and tobacco equal to that of Vir-
ginia ; but hunting and trading with the Indians are their
principal occupations. The exportation of fine furs and
skins of roebucks amounts annually, on an average, to
one hundred and twenty thousand livres.
Hemp grows naturally, and the vine is also in great
abundance, and of a very peculiar kind; the grape is
black, small^jand the skin extremely delicate. The
inhabitants make a kind of wine which is agreeable to
the taste, but cannot long be preserved.
One hundred and ten miles above Post St. Vincent's is
a small French establishment, called Ouia, or Ouiatanon,
containing ten or twelve families, of which the occupations
are also hunting, trading, and a little farming; but as
this settlement lies further back than that of Post St.
Vincent's, trading is the mos.t lucrative employment of
the inhabitants. The exportation from Ouiatanon in furs
and roebuck skins was estimated upon an average at one
hundred and ninety-two thousand francs a year; but this
branch of commerce diminishes sensibly; because as the
adjacent country becomes populous, the game retreats
further back into the country.
OF NORTH AMERICA.
l8l
At the passage of the Miamis carriages are regularly
found to convey the baggage and goods of travellers.
The head of the Wabash, at the place where the
waters divide, forms, militarily speaking, a fine position.
This point is the key of the whole country watered by
the Wabash, and the first which ought to be fortified if
the North Western Slates ever make a schism.
( i83 )
CHAPTER XIII.
Continuation of the Ohio. — Saline Creel. — Trade Creek.— Big
Cave. — Bear hunting. — Great Island. — Mistake in the charts.
— Omissions. — Other mistakes in the maps. — The Three Great
Islands. — Cumberland River. — Tenessee River. — Observation.
— Fort Massac. — Military Observation. — Arrest. — Massa.0
Creek. — Cash Island. — Cash Creek. — Mouths of the Ohio.
1 HE aspect of the country from Red Bank to this point
is nearly the same. Both sides of the Ohio are in general
low and swampy, a few trifling elevations near Highland
Creek excepted.
One mile below the end of Wabash Island we found
three small islands on the right; the two first almost
joined to each other, the third more distinct. These
islands are as yet covered only with young willows, the
l84 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
tops of which are visible in high waters. We kept
on the right to avoid the shallows. These three islands
extend four miles, reckoning from Wabash Island.
Four miles below the last of these small islands, we
left a fourth on the left, nearly of the same kind as the
preceding j that is, very low and covered with young
willows.
The depth of water from Wabash is from fifteen to
eighteen and twenty feet. The lands continue low and
swampy j the country is a desert.
Nine miles below this last island, Saline Creek empties
itself into the Ohio. At a mile above this creek, we left
on our right a great sand-bank, half dry; taking care to
steer very near the left, as this bank occupies a considerable
portion of the bed of the river. The soundings are from
six to eight feet.
This creek might very properly be called Highland,
for at this poin ends that long and almost uninterr-
rupted extent of low lands which begins at Louisville,
After passing Saline Creek, chains of heights rise on
both sides the river; that on the right is very elevated,
covered with great rocks, and often steep.
Eight miles and an half farther we reached Trade
Creek, leaving on our right a small dry sand-bank,
which joins the land.
OP NORTH AMERICA. l85
We proceeded six miles and an half, passing on our
left two great denies and a small island, and- reached
Big Cave, situated on the right.
From Saline Creek to Big Cave the navigation is
easy : the soundings were from five to ten and twelve feet.
This cavern, twenty-two or twenty-three feet deep, and
forty feet in height, is filled in high waters : it is an ex-
cavation made in the rocks hy the continual beatings of the
flood. We found a few crystallisations, hut no saltpetre,
nor any petrifactions whatever.
The lands on the left side, opposite Big Cave, are low
and swampy: the right side continues bordered with
rocky heights. On this spot we killed a bear, which was
crossing the Ohio. This mode of hunting is pleasant for
those who search for amusement rather than profit, since
at this season the prize is of no value. The bear, like most
other animals, is fond of bathing during the great heats,
as well to cool himself as to get rid of the vermin which
infest him. They are often seen, even in broad day,
swimming across the largest rivers, and it is while they
are on their passage that the hunters attack them. We
had observed the bear we killed, bathing with several
others on the right side, when he suddenly determined to
cross the river, the breadth of which in this place is not
less than twenty-four hundred yards. As soon as we
vol. i. B b
l86 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
observed that he had made a third of the way, four of us
threw ourselves into the little canoe, a hunter, myself,
and two Canadians whom I selected as the most expert in
guiding the boat, and also in preventing the bear during
the attack from overturning it, which is often the case.
We rowed towards him, and endeavoured to cut him off
from the side of the land whence he had set out. When
he saw himself so pressed that he could not go back,
instead of crossing the river he followed the stream, and
swam with such extraordinary swiftness, that it was half
an hour, with all the exertion of our oars, before we came
within musket shot. Perceiving that we had gained on
him to this point, he turned briskly round, and while he
was making this movement, which obliged him to expose
his whole side, the hunter and myself fired our carabines:
the hunter's bullet passed through his neck, and mine
through the withers j but as neither of these wounds were
mortal, they served only to irritate him, and he rushed
forwards, with redoubled fury, to overturn our canoe,
which we avoided by the great dexterity 'of the boatmen,
who kept continually above the current. This combat
lasted nearly half an hour, in which space we fired
six times without being able to kill him. At every dis-
charge the bear turned upon us, and in spite of the skill
of our Canadians^ he succeeded at length in passing under
OF NORTH AMERICA. 187
our canoe; but as he had already lost much blood, and
was consequently exhausted, he had not strength to over-
turn it. As soon as he raised his head, the pilot struck
him with an axe, which stunned and drowned him.
One of the most extraordinary incidents in this struggle
was the courage of a pretty little terrier, which at the
beginning of the attack threw himself into the water, and
fixed himself on the back of the animal ; till the bear,
enraged at his worrying and barking, plunged down, and
raising himself instantly again, tore him open.
The roebuck, also, during the summer traverses the
widest rivers. We often attempted to chace him in the
same manner, but his speed is such that no rower what-
ever can overtake him. We made the trial repeatedly
both in going up and down, but always ineffectually;
which induces us to think, that of all quadrupeds this is
the swiftest.
Leaving Big Cave, and proceeding two miles, we found
a large island with two sand-banks, which were dry.
Opposite the middle of the island we saw a third jutting
out from the right, then a fourth on the same side, and
opposite the end of the island. This passage is very
difficult. We left the island and the two first sand-banks
on our left, and the two others on our right.
e b 2
1 88 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
It is chiefly between the second and third of these
banks that the greatest skill of the mariner is requisite;
the channel, in this place, makes several windings, and
is not more than three or four feet in its greatest depth.
After passing the island, the heights close upon the
banks on the right side ; they are no longer rocky, but
consist of rich lands covered with very fine wood.
Five miles from the last island, not comprising its
length, which is three miles and an half, we found on the
left a large creek, delineated too much to the west in the
American, charts. It is navigable ten miles at all seasons
for canoes.
Opposite to this creek is a great sand-bank on the right
side, and which is half dry; we avoided it by steering
to the left. Care must be taken also not to approach too
near to this side, to avoid an eddy which is found imme-
diately after the creek, and which occupies a space of four
liundred yards.
A mile and an half lower, on the same side, is a
second creek, not described in any chart.
A mile and an half below this last creek we perceived
an island, which is separated from the main land only by
a small channel. We left this island on our right, and
three miles lower, including the length of the island, we
reached another, marked five miles too much to the
OP NORTH AMERICA. jgq
westward on all the American charts: we took the channel
on the right, that on the left being full of sand-banks,
and choked by driftwood. In the channel we had taken
we found ten, fifteen, and eighteen feet of water : the
navigation from the great island to this place is good.
The aspect of the country continues the same ; both
sides are lined with heights.
At a short distance from this island, we left a defile
on the right j and three miles lower, reckoning from the
head of this island, we found three others, which follow
each other at nearly equal distances. The two first are
connected by a great sand-bank, and take up a space of
nearly four miles. We passed these three islands on our
left, as well as a great sand-bank, which is at the end of
the third, and which is a mile in length under water.
Opposite to this sand-bank and to the last of these
islands, we perceived on the right two creeks, neither of
which are navigable. The channel on the left is altogether
impracticable • that on the right has from fifteen to twenty
feet of water.
Two miles below the sand-bank we found an island,
situated in the midst of the river, very high, which we
passed on our left; and three miles lower than the head of
this island, we found a second of the same elevation j we
left it on our right, the channel on the left being the only
1 90 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
practicable. Three miles further down than this last
island we found a third, situated exactly opposite Cum-
berland River ; we passed it on the left, the channel
between the island and the mouth of Cumberland River
being often filled with driftwood, brought down by that
river, which renders the passage on that side sometimes
difficult.
Y
iFrom the three small islands abovementioned to Cum-
berland River, which is nearly fifteen miles, the navigation
with little attention is every where good. The soundings
gave fifteen, eighteen, twenty, and twenty-five feet of
water.
After passing the last of these three small islands, the
country changes its aspect ; the heights on the right side
disappear altogether, and we perceived nothing but a vast
extent of low and swampy ground.
Cumberland River is from six hundred to seven hun-
dred yards wide at its mouth : it is navigable for boats of
all sizes one hundred and eighty miles, and its banks
are already inhabited. The mouth of this river is sur-
rounded by small eminences very advantageously situated
for protecting the entrance.
Ten miles below Cumberland River, we reached
Teriessee River, the entrance of which is marked by two
islands, situated so close to each other, that without great
OP NORTH AMERICA. igi
attention we should have passed without perceiving that
they were separated.
On the left side, between Cumberland and Tenessee
Rivers, we observed a small wooden fort, the object of
which was the protection of the navigation of those two
rivers, and also of the Ohio, during the war with the
Indians ; but the fort is placed at too great a distance to
answer this triple view, and is really useful only for the
Ohio. From Cumberland River to Tenessee the navigation
is excellent ; the height of the water is from twelve to
sixteen and eighteen feet. The lands are low and swampy
on both sides. Tenessee River is nearly of the same breadth
as Cumberland River, and is navigable for all kinds of
boats as high as Muscle Shoals.
After passing Tenessee River, the bed of the Ohio
widens considerably, and at the end of eleven miles, leav-
ing several defiles on both sides, with the navigation unin-
terrupted, we reached Fort Massac. The depth of water
in this distance is sixteen, eighteen, and twenty feet. The
lands on both sides are low and swamp}'.
Fort Massac, so called by the Americans, and Fort
Massacre by the Canadians/ is a post anciently established
* The Canadians informed us, that the Indians having one day surprised
and massacivd all the French who were within the fort, it was on that
acccount called Fort Massae.
1Q2 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
by the French, and abandoned at the time of the cession
of Louisiana j it has lately been repaired, and has been
occupied two years past by the Americans.
This fort is erected on a small promontory; it is built
with wood, and has four bastions surrounded with pali-
sadoes, of the same form and construction as all those
mentioned in the course of this work. The garrison is
composed of an hundred men, commanded by a captain ;
the batteries are mounted with eight pieces of twelve.
The fault of this position, with respect to the navigation
of the Ohio, is, that the channel being on the opposite side,
the passage [may be effected, especially during the night,
without any fear of the batteries.
It is, nevertheless, very important to keep this point,
because it communicates by two different roads wilh the
country of the Illinois. One of these, called the lower
road, and which is the shortest, is practicable only in
very dry seasons, and when the waters are very low;
because there are several creeks to pass, which are not
fordable in high waters ; in this case, the T)ther, called
the upper road, must be taken, which is much longer,
and which leads along the heights, crossing the creeks or
rivers at their sources. This road is passable for carriages,
whilst the lower road is practicable only for horse or foot
passengers. The distance from hence to Kaskasias by the
OF NORTH AMERICA. 1C)3
lower road is reckoned eighty miles, that by the upper
road one hundred and fifty.
The platform, on which the fort is erected, is about
seventy feet above the level of low water, and has con-
sequently nothing to fear from inundations. But the bank
being perpendicular, and the fort placed very near the
precipice, which is daily giving way, two of the bastions
that face the river dre in danger of being borne off by the
first floods ; the ditch and palisadoes having already shared
that fate.
Near the fort are seven or eight houses or huts
inhabited by Canadians, whose sole occupations are
hunting, or dragging boats: they appeared poor . and
miserable.
The commander of this fort was Captain Pike, who
treated us with great hospitality during the two days
which we spent with him ; but at the moment of our
departure, whether from reflection, or whether he had
received orders to that effect, as he told me verbally, he
thought it prudent to arrest us. At five in the morning,
Capt. Pike, attended by four fusileers and the whole of his
staff, including the surgeon, planted himself in my boat,
declaring to me with an air of dignity, that he thought
himself obliged in conscience to arrest us, having been
informed that I was indefatigable in taking the survey of
vol. f. c c
194 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
the Ohio, and of all the Western States. I immediately
showed him the whole of my manuscripts, observing that
they contained nothing but geographical notes and a few
local remarks, which were more fitted to benefit than
injure his fellow-citizens. He advised with his council ;
but neither any of its members or himself could read
French, and there was a moment of suspense with respect
to his decision ; when an idea, which alarmed me ex-
tremely, presented itself to him;— that of sending my
papers to Philadelphia, and taking the orders of govern-
ment. The distance from Fort Massac to Philadelphia is
at least a thousand miles. Fortunately, the surgeon,
who was a man of sense, observed, that eight months
must elapse before we could obtain an answer, and that
it would be cruel to detain me and my suite during the
whole of the winter, if, as he believed, I had done nothing
contrary to the laws of the country; since every one had
a right to travel in the United States, and even without a
passport. Captain Pike was struck with the wisdom of
this observation, and it was unanimously resolved that I
might continue my journey, taking, however, on board
an officer to attend me as long as I should remain in the
territory of the United States; this commission was
entrusted to Captain Taylor. Of Captain Pike's conduct
we had upon the whole no great reason to complain: he
OF NORTH AMERICA. 10,5
appeared to be a good man; and this little adventure pro-
ceeded rather from the jealous suggestions of some persons
who surrounded him, than any hostile intention of his
own.
Two miles below Fort Massac, on the left, we found a
creek, called Massac's Creek, which is not navigable.
Immediately below Fort Massac the Ohio widens still
more, and its course becomes slower, flowing along a low
country. On the right we perceived a kind of natural
dyke, which runs parallel with the banks of the river,
but the lands behind are in general low and swampy.
We proceeded without finding any variation in the
soil twenty-three miles. In this spaee the Ohio, which
had run for some time towards the west, takes a sudden
bend towards the south. We reached Cash Island, after
having passed two creeks on our right and left, neither of
which are navigable. The navigation during these twen-
ty-three miles is perfectly good, and the depth of water
from fifteen to twenty-five feet.
Passing Cash Island on our left, we took the channel on
the right ; carefully steering, however, as close as possible
to the island, to avoid a sand-bank jutting out from the
right.
Three miles below Cash Island, we left on the right
Cash Creek, and six miles below this creek we reached
J 96 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
the mouth of the Ohio. The country continues low and
swampy; the navigation regularly good, and the depth
of the river scarcely ever varies from twenty to twenty-
five feet.
The Ohio at its mouth offers nothing remarkable; its
breadth is nearly the same as that of the Mississipi, and
its banks are low and marshy, as well as the country on
each side.
Opposite to its mouth the Ohio has deposited a great
quantity of sand, which, forming a very considerable
bank, bars a part of the Mississipi, and renders this passage
extremely difficult : this we shall explain in the chapter
that treats of the navigation of this river.
In general, the distances marked in Hutchins's charts,
and others, are too great ; particularly from the rapids to
the mouth of the Ohio,
OF NORTH AMERICA.
*97
CHAPTER XIV-
TABLE
OP THE DISTANCES OP THE COURSE OP THE OHIO, FROM
PITTSBURG TO ITS MOUTH.
From Pittsburg to
Hamilton Island
The length of the island
Long Island
The length .
A small rapid
A small and very low island
Its length
Maes,
l
\k
3
6i
1
3
i
n
i98
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
From. Pittsburg to
Miles,
Brought over
Logstown ♦ w
Crow Island ,
Its length
Big Beaver Creek
A small low island
Its length T . .
Great Island
Its length
Bird Town
Little Beaver Creek ,
Island without a name
Two islands without names
Yellow Creek
The head of the first of the Black Islands
Their length
Judah Campbell
King's Creek
Brown's Islands
First houses in Mingo's Bottom
Henderson Island
Buffalo Creek
Carpenter's Station
84*
OF NORTH AMERICA.
*99
From Pittsburg to
Short's Creek i
Brought i
brward
Miles*
844
4
The head of the first of the Three Islands
1
Their length
Weeling Creek * »
4
i
Mc.Mann's Creek «
2
Dely's Station * .
Captel's Island
Captel Creek t
Fish Island
5
4
2
5
Its length i
Two small islands
i
i
Sun Fish Creek
3
Opossum Creek
Fishing Creek
5
8
Long Reach
Its length
5
12
Dechiquetee island .
Middle Island
8
i
Its length
French Creek
5
3
The first of the Three Brothers Islands
i
Their lenglh .
4
166
200
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
From Pittsburg to
Two small gravel banks
Calf Creek
Bull Creek . ■ r
Little Muskingum ,
The head of Duval Island
Its length
Great Muskingum .
A small creek
A small island
Another small island
A third island
Port Kanhawa . .
Belpre .
Little Hock Hocking
Great Hock Hocking
Lee's Creek
Belleville Island
Devil's Hole
Anderson Island . .
A little low island
Abraham's farm
Two small islands ,
Brought over
Mijes,
166
11
2*
3
5
1
2?
1
3
M
3
3
1
7
2
8
6
7
2
2
s3g
OF NORTH AMERICA,
From Pittsburg to
Miles.
Brought forward
239
Length of the two small islands
2i
Mill's Creek
i
The first island
.
l
The second island
.
2
Tartt's Fall
2
Robertson Island
.
*9
Taylor Island
3
Point Pleasant
6
Gallipolis Island
.
3
Its length
2
A small island without
a name
4
Racoon Creek
8
Little Guiandot
7
Great Guiandot
.
8
Twelve Poles Creek
9
Great Sandy River
6-1
A creek without a name
3
A torrent
.
12
Little Sandy River
5-:
A creek eight fathoms wide
i3?
Little Scioto
2
Tiger Creek
6
564 f
VOL. I.
nd
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
From Pittsburg to-
Miles.
Brought over 364*
Great Scioto . . , 5
Kenekena Creek » . . 11
Turkey Creek . . . a
Michael Settlement
5
A prominent point
8
Salt works
2
Graham
9
Middle Island
3
Donaldson Creek
3
Three islands
5
Manchester
2
Izick's Creek
1
Cabin's Creek
3
Brush's Station
2f
Limestone
4
Lawrence Creek
4
Eagle Creek
a
Red Oak Creek
2i
Lee's Creek
2i
Lee's Station
1
White Oak Creek
3
Bracking Creek
3
447
OF NORTH AMERICA.
From Pittsburg to
Miles.
Brought forward 447
Bull Skin Creek . 3
Locust Creek
ai
Hot Creek
3
A great bend
4
Twelve Mile Creek
12
Nine Mile Creek
3*
Selma Creek.
5
Little Miami
51
Cincinnati
9
Mill's Creek
21
Sym's Station
11
Great Miami
54
Tanner's Creek
3>
Wilson Creek
M
Hogan's Creek
1
Woolper's Creek
3
Paroquet Island
3
Gunpowder Creek
7
Landing Creek
1
Big Bone
2
Steel's Creek
2|
Creek without a name
5i
54H
204
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
From Pittsburg to
Elk Creek
Cool's Station
Indian Creek
Kentucky River
Little Kentucky-
Indian Kentucky
Creek without a name
Another creek
Another creek
Eighteen Mile Island
A creek
Twelve Mile Island
Harrod's Creek
Goose Creek
Louisville
Salt River
Otter Creek
Ohio-Pio-Mingo
Does Run
Falling Spring"
French Creek
Buck's Creek
Miles.
Brought over 54 iJ
7
12
693
OF NORTH AMERICA.
205
From Pittsburg to
Brought forward
A small island
Another island
Windot's Creek
Preston Creek
Blue Creek
Helin's Creek
Dardada Island
Little Yellow Creek
Harden's Creek
A third creek.
Clover Creek
Jefferson's Creek
Anderson's Creek
A slate-bank
Its length
Blackford Creek
A great sand-bank
Its length
Two islands
Yellow Bank
An island without a name
Another island
Miles.
693
4
2
1
10
1l
2
2
3
6
6
3
5'
8o3
«o6
SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
From Pittsburg to
Miles.
Brought over 8o3
lis length . . ^ . 1 1
Little Pigeon Creek
8
An island without a nam
e
4*
Its length
2i
Green River
3
Pigeon Creek
9
A small island
6
Red Bank
6
An island
2*
A bend
9
Diamond Island
51
Its length
4
A long island
7
High Land
10
River Wabash
7"'
The first of three small i
slands
a!
Their length
4
A small island
4
Salt Creek
9
Trade Creek
8
The Cavern
7
A large island
it
925!
OF NORTH AMERICA.
207
From Pittsburg to
Its length
A creek on the left side
Broug
ht forv*
rard
Miles.
925i
3'
4
Another creek on the left
1!
A small island
li
Another island
3
The first of three small
slands
3
Their length
A large island
Another island
4
3
3
Cumberland River
3
Tenessee River
10
Fort Massac
11
Massac Creek
2
Cash Island
23
Cash Creek
3
Mouth of the Ohio
6
Total
( 209 )
CHAPTER XV.
Military description of part of the Mississipi, from the mouth of
the Ohio to the Illinois country. — Important remark. — Buffalo
Island. — Temperature. — Elk Island.— P ointe d la Perche. —
Charpon Islands. — Courcy Islands. — Unlucky accident. —
English Islands. — Vines. — Chains of rocks. — Rapidity of the
current. — Cape a la Cruche. — Quicksands. — Pelicans. — Cape
Qirardot. — Observation respecting the beavers. — Du Verrier
Islands. — False Bays. — Marl River. — Apple River. — Muddy
River. — The Tower. — TFandering Indians. — Necessary pre-
cautions.— TFinged Islands. — Five Men Cape. — Dung Islands.
St. Mary's River. — Recapitulation of the distances. — Reasons
why a good map of the course of the river can never be
obtained.
Before we speak of the Mississipi, that great artery of
North America, it is necessary to make an observation.
Obliged, on leaving the Ohio and entering the Mississipi,
to ascend a part of this last river, in order to gain the
vol. i. e e
210 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
Missouri ; and anxious to give a successive view of objects
such as we beheld them, our account of the Mississipi
will necessarily be interrupted ; that is to say, we shall
first treat of the Mississipi from the Ohio to the Missouri,
and shall not resume our account of that river as far as
New Orleans, till we have finished our expedition into the
country of the Illinois and the Missouri.
We began our course on the Mississipi the second of
August. This day was one of the hottest we had felt in
North America: Fahrenheit's thermometer had risen to
ninety-seven. An hatchet exposed to the sun during an
hour had acquired such a degree of heat, that we could
not hold it in our hands. The wind was south, and the
weather thick and hazy.
Immediately on entering the Mississipi, and after
doubling the northern point which separates the waters of
this river from those of the Ohio, we passed on the left a
great sand-bank, called in the language of the country
latture, formed by this last river. The sand-bank is
long, flat, and covered with young poplars. At this point
both sides of the river are low and swampy, and we saw
nothing on the horizon which indicated that there were
any lands more elevated within a certain distance. For
this reason, the right side of the river, opposite to the
mouth of the Ohio, will never be proper for the construe-
OF NORTH AMERICA. 211
tion of any works, unless at an expence which would be
useless in a country that is yet a desert.
Three miles from the mouth of the Ohio, in ascending
the river, is an island on the left, called Buffalo Island,
which is about a mile in length, well wooded, and high,
with a blackish soil. We observed on both sides of the
river, ranks of willows, all of the same height, resembling
the finest Lombardy poplars, and arranged with so much
symmetry that each tree seemed placed at equal distances,
which viewed from the water produced a most beautiful
effect,
After doubling Buffalo Point, we reached, at the dis-
tance of half a mile, Elk Island, which is newly formed.
The willows we-eaw on this spot were not more than
from two to three years growth. Both passages are equally
good j nevertheless, when the waters are low, and in
going up the river, the right side is to be preferred, leav-
ing the island on the left.
We rowed by Elk Island a mile, and a mile and an half
higher we reached on the rightPointealaPerche, so called
on account of the great quantity of willows with which it
is bordered ; these willows are still loftier than those we
have just mentioned, some of them being sixty feet in
height.
212 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
Between Elk Island and Pointe a la Perche the current is
more gentle than from this island to the mouth of the
Ohio, where it is so strong that we proceeded scarcely
more than a mile in two hours ; and this with such diffi-
culty, that the best Canadian rower could not handle his
oar more than a quarter of an hour without resting.
Haifa mile higher than Pointe a la Perche, we reached
on the right Charpon Islands : these are three in number,
and they follow each other in succession ; each is about a
mile long, including the canals by which they are separated.
The lands continue low and swampy to a very great
distance on both sides, but they are of a fine quality,
having from twelve to eighteen feet of vegetable earth.
Three miles above these islands we reached Courcy
Islands: these are four in number, and occupy a space of
two miles. The towing line is used for these three miles.*
Before we reached Courcy Islands, we passed between
two great banks, in order to gain the right side, leaving
the islands on the right. This is the only side practicable
for the towing line, the other being perpendicular and
encumbered with trees, which renders this passage ex-
tremely difficult. With a line of fifty fathoms, though the
waters are low, we found no bottom.
* The towing line is made use of when the waters are low and the
sand-hanks dry : in high waters, or when the hanks are steep, this mode
is impracticable.
OP NORTH AMERICA. 2i3
Immediately after passing the last of Courcy Islands,
we steered to the left, in order to avoid a very dangerous
sand-bank ; there is a passage on the right, but the current
is so strong, that it is practicable only in descending the
river.
In crossing over, we met with a disagreeable accident •
our boatmen, exhausted in striving to master the current,
stopped on a sudden, when the boat drove with such
violence and with so much force on a stump, which broke
in its ribs, that we had only time to throw ourselves
on the nearest of one of the islands, where we passed the
rest of the day to repair the damage.
We learned with certainty, on leaving the Ohio, that
from thence to the Missouri, we could never proceed faster
than three leagues in a day, and sometimes only two.
Although our boat had twenty oars, the rapidity of the
current, the immense quantity of trees heaped together
on both sides the river, and which sometimes filled half
its bed ; the transversal position of these trees, which
changes the current of the river, and increases its rapidity,
render this navigation very difficult and dangerous: we
were continually in the alternative of breaking on the
trees, or striking on the sand-banks.
We estimated the current of the river in this place
at six or seven miles an hour, and often nine in channels
2l4 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
formed by the islands. The country continues to be low
and swampy.
We proceeded nine miles and reached the English
Islands, called by the Canadians Great Courcy Islands, and
by the Indians Taiouwapeti. These islands occupy a space
of six miles, and are twelve in number, ranged in groups
of different sizes, and each affording a passage : it is, how-
ever, safest to leave them all on the right ; not only be-
cause the current is less strong, but that nearly six miles
are gained by taking the channel on the left. The naviga-
tion from Liltle Courcy Islands hither is good: the banks
which are formed between them, and which are dry, make
it very easy for towing.
We saw a great quantity of game of every kind on
these islands, roebucks, bears, and buffaloes; we killed
one of the latter. From the mouth of the Ohio to this
spot we found neither creek nor river, nor saw any source
whatever.
After passing the English Islands, we perceived that
the lands begin to rise, and cease to be swampy j the soil,
nevertheless, is poor, being either rocky or gravelly,
mixed with reddish earth. At a distance we perceived a
chain of heights, called Taiouwapeti Mountain, which
rims north and south, parallel to the river.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 2l5
The whole of this quarter is covered with vines of the
large kind, which differs, however, from that which we
found in the north, the wood not being so thick ; tho
fruit is less, of a deeper red and sweeter : these vines climb
to the tops of the loftiest trees.
At half a mile distance from the last of the English
Islands, we found on the left side a chain of rocks, called
the Little Chain. We kept to the right, and two miles
higher we found a second, called the Great Chain, which
extends into the middle of the river, and is a mile in
length. The rocks that form this last chain being
detached from each other, leave a number of small pas-
sages, which, although perilous, may be passed with less
danger, aided by a good pilot, than the channel altogether
on the right, where there is a current, so strong, that it
cannot be stemmed without much loss of time and consi-
derable efforts, while amidst the rocks the water is almost
stagnant.
After passing the Great Chain of rocks, keeping con-
stantly to the left, the navigation continues gentle and
easy. We sometimes proceeded a mile and an half an hour.
Here the ground on both sides rises in gentle slopes,
and is no longer swampy ; it is a mixture of rocks, gravel,
and good soil. We beheld at intervals small rivulets,
which take their sources in the heights of Taiouwapeti.
Qi6 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
The quality of their waters is very inferior to that of
the river.
The hanks of the river are extremely dangerous in
this place, from the quicksands which often shift, and on
which no one can step without the risk of being swallowed
up ; our hunter had nearly perished in this manner,
and was saved only by placing his fowling piece in a
cross direction, when we instantly threw out cords and
hawled him on board the vessel. These quicksands may
easily be known by their lustre, which have the polish of
glass, and by their humidity which resists the hottest
beams of the san,
We proceeded six miles, and reached, on the left
side, Cape a la Cruche: it is a very elevated and per~
pendicular point, in front of which, and level with the
water, is a nest of rocks which extends to • some distance,
and which is very dangerous. These rocks may easily
be distinguished by the breakers.
The navigation during these six miles is good, if care
be taken to keep on the left side.
Having reached Cape a la Cruche, we crossed a part
of the river to gain an island on the opposite side, which is
bordered by a great sand-bank, very conveniently situated
for towing. We thus avoided a very strong current on
the left, and which begins after doubling Cape a la
Cruche.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 21?
Three miles above Cape a la Cruche, we passed on
the left the small island of La Ferriere.
Towards four o'clock in the afternoon, we perceived in
the horizon a kind of white riband of great length, which
was a flock of pelicans, called by the Canadians great
throats, coming from the north in their passage to the
southward. They begin to arrive in this latitude, in
the month of June, as the cold approaches. In the month
of December, therefore, an innumerable quantity are
seen at New Orleans, where they generally pass the
winter, and hatch their young. These birds travel
always in flocks ; when they reach any great river, they
range themselves all in one line, their heads turned
against the stream, and thus suffer themselves to be car-
ried down: they swallow all the fish that come in their
way, and deposit them in the great bag. When the
river is too narrow to contain a whole flock, they place
themselves in a line of two deep: they prefer the Missis-
sipi and the Missouri to every other river, on account
of their muddy waters.
At the distance of a mile and an half above the island
of La Ferriere, we reached Cape Girardot. We kept to
the left side, to take advantage of a very strong eddy
that reaches from this last island to Cape Girardot, which
is the first military point on the river, from the mouth
VOL. I. Ff
2l8 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
of the Ohio j* both sides being either swampy or broken
by rocks.
Cape Girardot, on the contrary, is a block of granite,
covered with a vegetable earth, about a foot in depth ; it
commands the whole river, which by means of a point,
or very considerable alluvion, on the opposite side, is
narrowed to the breadth of a mile at most. In order to
avoid the shallows with which this alluvion is surrounded,
all vessels that pass are obliged to keep very near the right
side, which is within half cannon shot of the Cape.
The upper part of the block or eminence A, is com-
manded by no height j that part which fronts the river
is steep and inaccessible; a large and deep defile surrounds
it to the north and east: on the south is a gentle declivity,
which finishes in low and sometimes marshy lands. The
foot of the cliff affords shelter and excellent mooring for
vessels.
Cape Girardot is, therefore, so situated as to supply
what is wanting on the right bank of the Mississipi, at the
point which corresponds to the mouth of the Ohio. Placed
at forty- three miles and an half only above its mouth,
this point commands whatever issues from that river, and
covers perfectly on this side the place of St. Louis, from
* It will be seen at the end of this survey, that this is also the first
point on the western side of the river from New Orleans, which renders
it so much the more important.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 219
which it could receive succour in twenty-four hours. This
leads us to think that the true station of the gallies is at
this spot, where there is a fort respectable enough to pro-
tect them.
The importance of this post did not escape M. Lauri-
mier, a Frenchman in the Spanish service, whose military
talents and great influence with the Indian nations are very
useful to this power. He has established himself there
with the Chawanons and the Loups, whom he commands,
and has a very line farm, on which he resides.
The river in great floods rises here as high as seventy
feet.
In one of the villages of the Loups which I visited
whilst I remained at Cape Girardot, I found a white who
had formed an establishment. This planter in clearing had
destroyed a settlement of beavers: on examining, with the
proprietor, the devastation which had been made in the
dwellings and dikes of these industrious animals, we were
struck with the appearance of one among those we had
killed, the skin of which was totally without hair, and his
body covered with scars. I conjectured at first that this was
the effect of some malady natural to this species of animal;
but my host, to whom I made the remark, informed me,
that he was the slave of the family, and that a similar one
was found in almost every habitation of the beavers.
f f 2
220 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN" RIVERS
" In each family," said he, ". there is one, which on
his entrance into the world is destined to be the slave.
The most servile and laborious occupations are his lot';
among which is that of his serving as a traineau for the
conveyance of wood. When the beavers have resolved
on cutting wood, and it remains only to be carried off,
the slave takes the stick between his fore feet ; the free
beavers, seizing him by the tail, drag him in this manner,
nor is he permitted to quit his hold till he reaches home."
If this be a fact, and I relate it with the same
simplicity that it was recounted to me, it is not astonishing
that the body of this animal should be scarified and de-
prived of its hair, by the continued friction he must have
undergone, when dragged through briars, over stones and
rocks. This at least is certain, that the beaver I saw was
without hair, and covered with scars both old and newly
made.
At the distance of half a mile from Cape Girardot,
and on the left side, is a creek which is almost dry
during the summer ; and half a mile higher is the
island Du Verrier, which we left on the right. The
navigation during this mile is easy, but the island being
very large, and narrowing the bed of the river, there is
a very strong current in both channels. We quitted the
left side, and crossed to gain the island, which is sur-
OF NORTH AMERICA. ■ 221
rounded with banks, that facilitate the use of the towing
line.* The left side of the river, independently of its
extreme rapidity, is also filled with a considerable quantity
of drift-wood, which chokes up half the channel ; but
these kinds of obstacles are but momentary; the next year
they may totally disappear, and may probably embarrass
some other point of the river.
After rowing by the island Du Verrier, which is two
miles long, and proceeding three miles further, we reached
False Bays, situated on the right side; we crossed again a
part of the river, to gain a great sand-bank which is dry,
and where the current is less strong. We left on the right,
a mile from False Bays, an island without a name, which
has been only formed within these two years. Two miles
and an half above this island, we passed another on the
right, of which the name is also unknown.
The current during these last two miles and an half
is moderate, and the navigation easy ; we kept to the
right side, which is bordered with flat rocks, and con-
venient for mooring boats. A mile above this last island,
perpendicular rocks rise on the right bank to the height
of two hundred feet: the left side, on the contrary, is
swampy.
* These crossings are made with extreme difficulty, and however able
the rowers, one and two miles are often lost in the passage: they ought,
therefore, to be avoided as much as possible.
322 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
We rowed the length of a mile along this iron ram-
part, and reached on the same side Marl River (Riviere
de Glaise), which is full of a clay of this nature. The
river is about forty or fifty yards wide at its mouth, runs
through low and swampy lands, and is almost dry during
the summer.
Four miles above, and on the same side, Apple River
(Riviere aux Pommes) empties itself. This river is from
eighty to ninety yards in breadth at its mouth, and though
its waters are low in dry seasons, there is nevertheless
enough for the navigation of canoes.
Directly opposite to Apple River, Mud River (Ri-
viere aux Vases) flows into the Mississipi. Its mouth is
concealed by a very considerable island, which forms two
passages; the first, in ascending the river, is the best.
This river is navigable sixty miles for canoes, during the
whole year ; the country through which it flows is ex-
tremely fertile, but swampy to a great distance.
Four miles above Mud River, and on the right side of
the Mississipi, is the Tower; a name given to a great
mass of rocks, at nearly fifty yards distance from the right
bank. Its round form, insulated situation, and lofty height,
led the first navigators to give it this appellation. This
rock offers nothing curious,* excepting the immense quail?
* If this rock were not commanded by the right bank, it would form
a very important military point.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 223
tity of birds of every kind to which it affords an asylum.
Six weeks previous to our arrival here, an American
family, composed of twelve persons, were all massacred.
They had taken their station, at the close of the evening,
opposite to the Tower, on the left side of the river. Soon
after their landing, two Chickasaws came to visit them
with a friendly air, asking them for provisions and rum,
which were given to them, and they appeared to go away
highly satisfied. But at daybreak a troop of twenty Indians
fell upon this unfortunate family, and massacred men,
women, and children, without mercy. These murders
are very common, and are committed almost always by
Indians proscribed and driven from their tribes for rob-
bery or some bad action ; the vagabonds then wander
through the woods, and rob and kill all they meet. These
depredations are in general committed by the Chickasaws ;
sometimes, however, massacres take place by way of
reprisal. If an Indian be killed by a White, as soon as the
news reaches the tribe, the whole nation swears vengeance,
and that the same quantity of blood which has been taken
shall be shed : after which, the first White that presents
himself, whether a stranger or no, becomes their victim.
When such attacks are to be apprehended, it is prudent
to encamp in one of the small islands, after having well
examined it; or what is still better, to anchor always at
.224 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
a little distance from the shore. To this precaution, which
we cannot too strongly recommend to those who travel
in these deserts, we owe the preservation of our own
Jives.
Leaving the Tower, we proceeded three miles and an
half, and reached Winged Island (Isle aux Ailes), which
we left on the right. In this space there are several
eddies on the left side, which favor the ascent of the river ;
the current is very strong on the right.
Four miles and an half above Winged Island is Five
Men Cape (Cap des cinq Homines), situated on the leftside.
It is known by the long line of rocks which precedes it,
and which though joined to the bank, extends far into the
river. These rocks form very violent currents, but be-?
yond them the navigation becomes smooth and easy.
Three miles above Five Men Cape are Dung Islands
(Isles a la Merde) :* these are four in number, and extend
nearly three miles. We passed them on the left, and
half a mile higher we reached the river St. Mary, situ-
ated on the same side. Opposite its mouth is a little island,
called Perch Island (Isle a la Perche), which we left on
our right.
A mile and an half above Perch Island, wre reached
the island of Kaskaskias,
| JThese disgusting appellations seem to characterise the slate of the people*
OP NORTH AMERICA. S25
From Five Men Cape the navigation is good, and even
easy, but care must be taken when at Perch Island, to
cross the river and gain the right side, where the current
is much more gentle than on the left.
A mile above the island of Kaskaskias, we reached the
mouth of the river which bears this name.
The appearance of the country from Cape Girardot to
this place, varies but little; everywhere we find small
rocky heights, intersected by vallies, which are often
overflowed. Excepting Cape Girardot, the whole of this
country, from the Ohio to Kaskaskias, is uninhabited.
The river Kaskaskias is nearly one hundred and twenty
yards broad at its mouth, and affords in every season a
gentle and safe navigation for all kinds of boats. The village
of Kaskaskias, situated ten miles from the mouth of the
river, is the first settlement in the country of the Illinois.
From Kaskaskias to Salt River is reckoned ten miles;
from thence to St. Genevieve four; from St. Genevieve to
Fort Chartres twenty; to Joachim River eighteen; to
Marimeck river fifteen; to the village of Carondelet fifteen;
to St. Lewis ten; and to the Missouri four.*
The whole navigation from the river Kaskaskias is
excellent, and traverses a country very well inhabited,
called the Illinois.
* See the description of the country of the Minok
VOL. I. Gg
226
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
RECAPITULATION OF THE DISTANCES
FROM THE MOUTH OF THE OHIO TO THAT OF THE MISSOURI.
From the mouih of the Ohio to
Miles.
Buffalo Island
5
Its length ....
1
Elk Island . . . .
<
Its length ....
i
Pointe a la Perche
i
Charpon Islands
Their length
5
Courcy Islands
5
Their length
2
English Islands
9
Their length
6
Little chain of rocks
Great chain
2
Cape a la Cruche
6
Island a la Ferriere
5
Cape Girardot
i
Island du Vcrrier .
. . i
44
OF NORTH AMERICA.
227
From the mouth of the Ohio to
Miles.
Brought over 44 1
Its length ...... 2
False Bays
3
Marl River
5t
Apple River
4
The Tower
4
Winged Island
o\
Five Men Cape
4*
Dung Islands
IT
O
Their length
3
River St. Mary
1
Kaskaskias Island
if
Salt River
10
St. Genevieve
4
Fort Chartres
20
Joachim River
18
Marimeck River
i5
Carondelet village
i5
St. Lewis
•
10
The Mouth of the Misso
uri
5
jQi
225 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
The most valuable information which we acquired
during this short passage, respecting the navigation of this
river, as well from our own observations as the different
accounts which we could procure, was, that whatever
talents, patience, and courage may be exercised in under-
taking this expedition, there are obstacles which will for
ever render it impossible to obtain either charts or any
certain details respecting the course of this river, which
can serve either as a guide or instruction to travellers.
The Mississipi has not only the inconvenience of being
of an immense extent, of winding in a thousand different
directions, and of being intercepted by numberless islands;
its current is likewise extremely unequal, sometimes
gentle, sometimes rapid; at other times motionless; which
circumstances will prevent, as long as both sides remain
uninhabited, the possibility of obtaining just data with
respect to distances. But an insurmountable obstacle will
always be found in the instability of the bed of this river,
which changes every year : here a sharp point becomes
a bay; there an island disappears altogether. Further
on, new islands are formed, sand-banks change their
spots and directions, and are replaced by deep channels ;
the sinuosities of the river are no longer the same : here
where it once made a bend it now takes a right direction,
and there the straight line becomes a curve : here ravages
OF NORTH AMERICA. 22Q
and disorders cannot be arrested or mastered by the hand
of man, and it would be extreme folly to undertake to
describe them, or pretend to give a faithful chart of this
vast extent of waters, as we have done of the course of
the Ohio, since it would not only be useless but dangerous.
It is for these reasons that we shall confine ourselves, as
we proceed, to general ideas with respect to the navigation
of this river, and treat in detail only of the most striking
military points situated on its current. If from the Ohio
to the river Kaskaskias we have deviated from this rule,
it is because that part of the river is reckoned the most
difficult, and also varies less on account of the two
chains of heights which bound its banks, and which fix
and master its course,
( »5i )
CHAPTER XV.
Country of the Illinois.— Period at which the French established
themselves. — Character of the inhabitants. — Sketch of the
country. — Observations on the mountains. — Conjectures. —
Objections. — Communications. — Meadow of the Rock, — Fort
St. Charles.— St. Philip.— New design.— Hull's Station.— Salt
Works. — Bound Station. — Indian tombs. — Meadow of the
Bridge. — Observations. — Kaokias. — Singular country. — St.
Lewis.— Fort.— Military position of St. Lewis.— Florissant—
3Iarais des Liards. — St. Genevieve. — Lusiere. — Alines. — Water
carriage.— Nomenclature of different gramina.—Plan of an
intrenched camp.
llIE country of the Illinois is situated between the
thirty-seventh and forty-fifth degree of northern latitude.
The French took possession of this province in 1681, at
the same period that William Penn laid the foundation
of Pennsylvania.
2 32 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
The settlements on the Spanish side begin from Salt
River, and terminate at the Missouri, on the right bank
of the Mississipi : those on the American side begin at the
river Kaskaskias, and end at Dog's Meadow (Prairie du
Chien).
The French settlements which still remain, situated
on the Spanish side, are St. Genevieve, St. Lewis, Floris-
sant, and St. Charles. This last is formed on the left
side of the Missouri.
On the American side there are still some French at
Kaskaskias, the Meadow of the Rock (Prairie du Rocher),
St. Philips, Kaokias, Piorias, on the Red River, at Dog's
Meadow, near the Ouiscousin, Chicagou, on the lake
Michigan, and at Post St. Vincent's, on the Wabash.
These people are, for the most part, traffickers, adven-
turers, hunters, rowers, and warriors; ignorant, super-
stitious, and obstinate j accustomed to fatigue and priva-
tions, and stopped by no sense of danger in the under-
takings they form, and which they usually accomplish.
In domestic life, their characters and dispositions are
similar to those of the Indians with whom they live;
indolent, careless, and addicted to drunkenness, they cul-
tivate little or no ground, speak a French jargon, and
have forgotten the division of time and months. If they
are asked at what time such an event took place, they
answer, " in the time of the great waters, of the straw-
OP NORTH AMERICA. 2 53
berries, of the maize, of potatoes :" if they are advised to
change any practice which is evidently wrong, or if
observations are made to them respecting the amelioration
of agriculture, or the augmentation of any branch of
commerce, the only answer they give is this : '" It is the
custom j our fathers did so: I have done well; my children
will do the same." They love France, and speak of their
country with pride.
The province of the Illinois is perhaps the only spot
respecting which travellers have given no exaggerated
accounts : it is superior to any description which has been
made, for local beauty, fertility, climate, and the means
of every kind which nature has lavished upon it for the
facility of commerce.
This country is a delightful valley, where winds
one of the most majestic rivers on the globe, and which,
after receiving the vast Missouri, is still augmented by an
infinite number of smaller rivers and creeks, all navi-
gable, and fitted for the construction of mills and ma-
chinery of almost every kind.
This valley is full of small lakes and villages, and
interspersed with woods and natural meadows, strewed
with medicinal and odoriferous plants. Across these
meadows flow numerous rivulets, sometimes murmuring
beneath the flowers, and sometimes displaying their silver
vol. i. Hh
2 34 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
beds and their transparent waters, pure as the air which
is breathed amidst those romantic spots. On each side of
these vast meadows, which are level as the surface of the
calm ocean, rise lofty and venerable forests, which serve
as boundaries, while their thick and mysterious shades fill
the mind with reverential awe and enthusiastic contem-
plation.
This valley is bounded on the right and left by two
small chains of mountains running parallel with the banks
of the river, but never more distant than four or five miles.
The chain on the east begins to be perceived from the
mouth of the river Kaskaskias, and runs in the same
direction as far as the Dog's Meadow, situated two hun-
dred and forty leagues higher.
The western chain is visible from Cape Girardot, and
runs in the same direction, nearly at the same height, and
following the same bendings as that of the east.
These small chains rise commonly one hundred and
fifty and sometimes two hundred feet above the level of
the lands which separate them from the waters of the
river. These masses of rock are composed sometimes of
greystone, flint, with which the Indians tip their arrows,
or millstone, but most frequently of limestone.
The lands which run along between these chains and
the bed of the river, form, as I have already observed,
OF NORTH AMERICA, &33
vast meadows intersected with small woods : the whole
of these lands are the product of successive depots,
occasioned by the overflowings of the river. Trees half
burnt are often found in digging, together with pieces
of earthen and iron utensils. The whole is a bed of sand,
the surface of which is covered by a vegetable layer, four
or five feet in thickness.
It is probable that both these chains have been washed
by the river: the different shells which are found in-
crusted, the constant parallelism of their layers with the
horizon, and which is seen marked in the rocks, lying in
the same direction, and the correspondent angles of
these chains, are indications which support this con-
jecture. Here, nevertheless, a great difficulty presents
itself; which is that of knowing how the river could at
once have covered these two chains.
Many persons, and we were of the number, perplexed
at the idea of the quantity of water necessary to cover this
surface, suppose that the Mississipi may several times
have changed its bed, and have flowed at different epochas
over certain parts of these two chains \ but the corres-
pondence of the angles, the constant opposition of the
concave with the convex parts, which so well demonstrate
the course of the waters, oppose this hypothesis, and wo
Hh a
2 56 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
are brought back almost irresistibly to believe that these
two chains were once the two banks of the river.
In fact, had not the Mississipi washed at the same
time both these chains, they would not always have run
parallel and without interruption, and breaks would have
been found at intervals, such as are observed in the
current of the Ohio.
It may be inquired what is become of all the water
which was necessary to fill so broad and deep a bed?
The following is the most satisfactory solution which we
could find of this difficult question.
When in descending the Mississipi we consider with
attention the direction of these two chains of mountains,
we observe that the nearer we approach the sea, the
further they fall back from each other ; till, at length, that
on the western side flies off, and disappears altogether
towards the Attakapas ; whilst that on the east directs itself
towards the mountains in the south of Florida.
From the point where these two chains are no longer
visible, we find a prodigious extent of productive land,
sometimes fifty leagues in breadth.
At thirty leagues from the mouth of the river is situated
New Orleans, which is distant from the gulf of Mexico
on the right and left, only two leagues. In the midst of
OF NORTH AMERICA. 207
this peninsula runs, in different channels, the Mississipi,
by which alone it could have been formed.
We know, also, that formerly this town was very near
the mouth of the river, and consequently at a small dis-
tance from the sea shore. Admitting this to be the case,
if we could carry back in our imaginations, above the
Illinois, all the earth which has been washed down and
deposited by the current in the stretch of land, which is
now below New Orleans, we shall be convinced that the
quantity of water necessary to fill and cover the space
which then existed between the two chains, could not be
immense, and that its volume appears insufficient at present,
only from the changes which the water has itself produced.
Besides, in the month of April, i784, when a considerable
inundation took place, the river reached from one chain
to the other, and carried a barge from Kaskaskias to
Kaokia, across the meadows and low lands which were
under water. There are, moreover, strong conjectures
that the lakes Michigan and Superior emptied their waters
formerly into this river. The evidence for this conjecture
is, that when the waters are high, boats carrying from
fifteen to twenty thousand weight pass from the Illinois
river to the lake Michigan, without portage, by traversing
a marsh which joins the sources of the river Illinois with
those of the river Chicaco, which now discharges itself
2 58 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
into the lake Michigan. The Ouiscousin affords a similar
proof.
No one is ignorant that Canada has suffered very
considerable earthquakes ; such, for example, as happened
in i663, when in a single night twenty-six shocks took
place. The history of this colony informs us, that these
earthquakes were felt over an extent of country more than
one hundred leagues in breadth, and three hundred in
length, from the mouth of the river St. Lawrence running
to the West.
It is very probable, therefore, that the bed of granite
which forms the cataract of the Niagara has been sunk
in one of these violent commotions, and that previous to
this convulsion of nature the waters of the lake emptied
themselves into the Mississipi ; this hypothesis explains
easily how the waters of that river might have washed
at the same time both the chains which filled the vast
void that now exists ; since the greater part of these
waters at present discharge themselves into the river
St. Lawrence.
But I offer this solution as the opinion of an individual
little enlightened on a subject so abstruse, and which
I leave to the meditation of those who are more conver-
sant than myself with the secrets of nature.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 23g
There are two communications by land from Kaskaskias
to Kaokia ; one called the lower road, the other the upper.
The first is practicable only during the summer, the second
the whole year.
From Kaskaskias to the Meadow of the Rock is rec-
koned fifty miles, and the road lies across natural meadows
and a soil extremely loamy, which renders it impracticable
in rainy seasons. The vegetation of this soil is so luxuriant,
that a man on horseback is covered by the height of the
grass; we measured some stalks, which were twenty-one
feet high.
The Meadow of the Rock is a small village situated at
the foot of the chain of rocks, of which we have given the
description ; its population is composed of eighty or an
hundred inhabitants at most, and the greater part are the
produce of a mixture with the Indians.
At the Meadow of the Rock are two roads; that on
the right goes across the heights; the left, which is the
continuation of the lower road, traverses the meadows.
A mile beyond the Meadow of the Rock, on the left, is a
path now covered with grass, the track of which is scarcely
to be seen. This path leads to Fort Charles, situated on
the banks of the river, at the distance of a mile: its ruins
are the only vestiges that remain of the power by which it
was erected. This fort was begun by the French India
240 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
Company in 1754, and finished in 1762, precisely at the
period of the peace by which we lost our territorial pos-
sessions on this continent. Its form is square, with four
bastions finely proportioned and covered with freestone.
A wall surrounds it six feet thick and twenty high, with
crannies and embrasures : opposite and parallel to the
curtains are four large and magnificent buildings, one of
which was destined for officers, one for the garrison, and
the two others for military stores. The whole of these
buildings are made of freestone, and raised on arches.
This establishment was constructed with so much solidity
and care, that in spite of time and the neglect in which
it is left, the wall and buildings are still in good preser-
vation : the timber has been taken away.
In front of the curtain which faces the river, are seen
the remains of a very fine battery of six pieces of twelve
that defended the passage of the river, by means of an
island which is opposite, and narrows its bed. At a
quarter of a mile from the fort, on the left, are the ruins
of Chartres, covered with wild herbs.
Proceeding seven miles by the road on the right,
reckoning from the point where it separates, leading to
St. Charles, we reached St. Philip, which is a new
settlement, and contains seven or eight families, among
which are a few Americans. This space is intersected
OF NORTH AMERICA. 24l
with woods, with natural meadows, and some marshes,
which render St. Philip's unhealthy.
Two miles from thence is another crossway; the road
on the right goes to New Design, and meets that which
leads to the Meadow of the Rock; the road on the left goes
into the valley.
Five miles further we reached Hull's Station, which is
agreeably situated at the foot of the chain of mountains,
on a small platform, high enough not to be incommoded
by the thick and foggy air which spreads over the meadows.
This station is composed as yet but of two houses, inha-
bited by Americans.
Eight miles beyond Hull's Station are the Salt "Works:
two roads lead to this place; that on the right is the most
direct and the best, following the base of the mountain;
the left leads through the meadows.
From the Salt Works to Bounds Station is a distance of
five miles, which lie across a country alternately wood
and meadow ground. On the left is a very considerable
pond, filled with an innumerable quantity of water fowl
of all kinds; this point is unhealthy during the summer.
A few miles beyond Bound's Station we passed some
small huts on the left, newly constructed. Sixteen miles
farther, following the course of the meadows, which are
of an immense extent, we found several small mounds
VOL. I. ! i
242 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
regularly ranged in a circular form : these were ancient
Indian tombs.
Three miles further we reached the Meadow of the
Bridge, leaving on the right a road which leads to the
heights. The whole of this space is intersected with
large ponds, some of which are three or four miles long,
and one broad: these stagnant waters occasion, by their
exhalations, many fevers in the autumn, and on this
account the Meadow of the Bridge is very little peopled,
the greater part of the inhabitants having gone over to
the Spanish side.
Observing the level of the waters of the river, when
it is low, and that of the waters of the lakes, we perceived
that it would be very easy to dry up the latter by means
of a few drainings, which might be cut across the
meadows; but indolence and the want of population are
impediments to this measure, and the inhabitants prefer
changing their settlements to the labor of ameliorating
those they already occupy.
From the Meadow of the Bridge to Kaokia is only
a mile.
Kaokia is situated at the extremity of this immense
and beautiful valley; it contains about three hundred
families, of which there are an hundred men capable of
bearing arms.
OF NORTH AMERICA.
243
RECAPITULATION
OP THE DISTANCES OF THE LOWER ROAD.
Miles.
From Kaskaskias to
the Meadow of the Rock
i4
To St. Philip
.
8
Hull's Station
7
Salt Works
.
7
Bound's Station
.....
5
Indian Tombs
.
16
Meadow of the Brie
Ige . . . .
5
Kaokia
i
6.
Leaving the Meadow of the Rock, the road turns
short to the right, passing a hollow which is very narrow,
and following on the left a rivulet which is fordable at
the distance of two miles. After climbing during a mile
a very steep ascent, we reached a platform, which pre-
sents the view of a very singular country.
This country can neither be termed wood nor meadow ;
the trees with which it appears to be covered, are so
thinly scattered, that the intervals are so large as not
to intercept the light. Neither a thorn nor a shrub are
2 44 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
to be seen, and only one kind of wood, the post oak, the
trees of which are all of the same size and height. The
ground is covered with grass of an excellent quality for
cattle.
The singular aspect of this country can be attributed
only to a custom among the Indians of setting fire every
autumn to the grass and dead leaves of the forests, which
destroys the whole, except this kind of oak.* It is to be
observed, also, that this oak is smaller, and not so lofty as
those of other forests, where this accident has not taken
place, and its bark is almost black. It is clear of
branches, both great and small, to the height of twenty or
twenty-five feet. The principal use of this timber is for
inclosures or barriers, and it is as serviceable as cedar for
these purposes.
* When a traveller is surprised by one of these fires, which happens
commonly in the autumn, and sees the conflagration advance, which generally
spreading over the whole extent of the meadow, runs rapidly on when
aided by the wind, the only measure to adopt, in order to preserve himself
from a danger so imminent, is to fight a fire behind him ; by this means,
the grass is already burnt when the devouring flame reaches the spot,
where finding nothing more to consume, it stops and is necessarily extin-
guished. For this reason every one who travels in the autumn, amidst these
plains, cannot be too strongly recommended to provide himself with a
tinder-box, which the inhabitants of the country are careful to do, since
their fives are so nearly concerned.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 245
The whole of this country is a gentle undulation ; not
a single rivulet is to be found, but there are a great
number of springs of pure and limpid water.
The quality of the land is excellent ; its vegetable
layer is about three feet in depth. Great holes of a
singular form are frequently seen, which have the figure
of a cone reversed, or kind of funnel, the upper part of
which is about one hundred yards broad, and thirty,
forty, and fifty feet in depth. Several of these have very
plentiful springs of water ; others are entirely dry during
the summer : the issue cannot be traced by which the
waters run off.
The same country and the same aspect continues
without any variation till within three miles of Kaokia,
when the upper road falls into the plain at Pickset's
Station, and joins, six miles farther on, the lower roac^
The upper road is every where very good, except for
carriages ; it is military, not only as it holds the summit
of the whole country, but that by means of its undu-
lations, every movement may be kept out of sight of the
enemy.
246 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
DISTANCES OF THE UPPER ROAD.
From Kaskaskias to the Meadow of the Rock i4
To New Design f „ 20
Belle Fontaine P 2
Pickset's Station . . . . . 16 £
JCaokia . . . . . 12
64i
Independently of these two roads, there is another
which communicates from Kaskaskias with Post St. Vin-
cent's, and leads almost continually across fine natural
meadows. The distance is computed at one hundred and
fifty miles, which may he passed in five days on horse*
hack; hut this road is impassable for any carriage.
These natural meadows are highly agreeable to the
traveller, who passes them without suffering any of the
inconveniences which he finds in the forests, such as
reptiles and insects ; since it is well known that the
moschettoes, with which the woods are filled, and which
are so troublesome, cannot bear the light; much less the
rays of the sun, by which they perish : they can only
exist amidst damps and darkness. With respect to reptiles,
OF NORTH AMERICA. 247
tliey must be extremely rare in these meadows, which
are consumed every autumn by the Indians.
Two miles above Kaokia, and on the right bank of
the river, is situated the town of St. Lewis, or Pincour,
on a platform high enough to be at all times out of the
reach of inundations.
The population of this town is estimated at six hun-
dred inhabitants, of whom two hundred, all French,* are
* A circumstance worthy of notice, with respect to our national cha-
racter, is, that we never incorporate, generally speaking, with any other
nation ; wherever we go, we wish to plant ourselves, to introduce our own
tastes, manners, customs, and language. It is to tliis generous pride that we
must attribute that marked difference wliich exists in the mode of our forming
settlements in foreign countries, from that of other emigrants. The French
unite, and form themselves hito towns and villages, whilst others disperse and
melt into the mass of the people amongst whom they dwell, as may be
observed in the United States.
This love of our country, this national prejudice, far from being a subject
of ridicule, as it has been treated by some modern writers, ought rather to
be regarded as a virtue, of wliich wise governments know how to take
advantage. Who knows if Louisiana and Canada would not have balanced the
immense influence wliich England has obtained in the United Slates, if France
had supported her colonies, as those of the English have been protected by
their government. England owes her influence to the introduction of her
manners, her customs, her language, her religion, and her marine ; I say,
her marine, because to be master of the world, it is necessary to be sovereign
of the sea. This political axiom is of ancient date ; the Greeks transmitted it
248 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
capable of bearing arms. These men are less degenerate
than the race which dwell on the American side; we
found among them that sentiment of attachment to their
country which characterises the French nation; they
appeared to be excellent patriots, whose lives and fortunes
are devoted to France; families of laborers in easy cir-
cumstances, and prosperous merchants. The people in
general would be happy, were it not for the viciousness
of the administration, which grants exclusive privileges
to strangers for the fur trade; privileges always odious to
the people and ruinous for the states, since they anni-
hilate industry and destroy emulation.
It might easily be presumed from the situation in
which we found the forts, and the weakness of the gar-
rison, which consisted of seventeen men, that Spain had
the intention of abandoning Upper Louisiana.
At the time this post was menaced by Genet's expe-
dition, ill combined and still worse directed, a paltry
square redoubt was constructed, flanked by four bastions,
the sides of which were precisely two feet and an hal£
(the space of a single man) and surrounded with a ditch
to the Romans, and it has since been adopted by every nation : it is in this
sense that one of our tragic writers (Lemierre) says:
" Le trident de Neptune est le sceptre du monde."
OF NORTH AMERICA. 24q
two feet deep and six in breadth, with an inclosure of
crannied planks. A garrison of seventeen men and the
inhabitants, all devoted to France, were charged with the
defence of this post.
The order of the commander was the only thing rea-
sonable in this extraordinary defence of Upper Louisiana :
it stated in substance, that immediately on the appearance
of the enemy, the garrison should retreat to New Madrid.
We shall speak of that place at the end of the work.
The position of St. Lewis, five leagues from the mouth
of the Missouri, and eight from that of the Illinois,
considered in a military point of view, is one of the best
on the riv«r Mississipi. If it were put into a respectable
state of defence, it would cover Upper Louisiana, and
prevent every irruption by the Upper Mississipi, the Illi-
nois, and the Missouri; commanding, at the same time,
the Western States and Upper Canada, each of which
might be invaded by three different roads: the first in
ascending the Mississipi, and the Ouiscousin, from whence
a carrying place of three miles leads to Fox River and
Green Bay, which makes part of Lake Michigan; the
second by ascending the Illinois river, and gaining by
Chickago the sources of the river Kennomick, which
empties itself likewise into the same lake ; this may be
effected in high waters without carriage, by traversing
v°l- i. k k
200 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
a marsh where there is four or five feet of water; and the
third, in proceeding from Kaskaskias, and gaining the
post of St. Vincent's by a fine communication of one
hundred and fifty or one hundred and sixty miles across
a country of natural meadows, and afterwards ascending
the Wabash as far as the sources of the river Miamis, the
waters of which fall into Lake Erie.*
St. Lewis can also oppose every irruption by the Ohio
against New Madrid ; that town being situated above the
mouth of the river at the distance only of fifty leagues,
this space might be run in thirty-six hours with gallics;
the advantages of being master of the current, in the navi-
gation of a river, are still more decisive than having the
wind at sea.
If we consider St. Lewis in a commercial point of
view, we shall find its position still more fortunate. This
place will stand in the same relation to New Orleans,
as Albany to New York: it is there that will be collected
all the produce transported by the great rivers which
meet near this point, after traversing such fine and fertile
countries. It is there that the traders would bring all the
fine furs of the Missouri, and other adjacent rivers ; — a
source of inexhaustible riches for more than a century.
* See the particular description of each of those rivers.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 201
It is al St. Lewis that a stop may be put to the inva-
sions and usurpations of England. St. Lewis will become
the military point for the defence of the head of the
Mississipi, and the mouth of the Missouri, and to support
the different posts which might be formed upon this river :
it will be the central point for all internal administra-
tions, and from which the traders* will take their depar-
ture. Upon the whole, it will be by St. Lewis that the
communication will be opened with the Southern Ocean,
and its waters connected with those of the Gulf of Mexico ;
and this may be effected with more facility, more safety,
and with more economy for trade and navigation, than
in any other given point in North America. §
These considerations, which even the peace cannot
annul, decided the French plenipotentiary to propose to
the Spanish minister on my return in the month of Ja-
nuary, 1797, the plan of defence which will be found
at the end of this chapter ; a plan which may be con-
sidered as only temporary, but which may one day serve
as the basis of a plan of defence more mature and complete,
when circumstances, time, and experience shall have
furnished easier means of examination, and more exact
* Those who are here called traders, are persons who traffic with the
Indians for furs.
§ See the description of the Missouri.
Kk2
252 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
details than those which could he collected in a situa-
tion so delicate as that in which we undertook the survey
of this place.
Four leagues to the north of St. Lewis, and a league
from the mouth of the Missouri, a new settlement has
hcen formed, called Florissant, which contains already
thirty families, the greater part American, and all good
farmers.
A mile west of Florissant is another settlement formed
"by the French, called Marais des Liards, which contains
an hundred families. Two leagues and an half farther on
towards the north-west, and on the left of the Missouri,
is situated the last settlement of civilised men, called
St, Charles, containing two hundred families, all traders
or hunters.
Twenty-four leagues to the south of St. Lewis, and
on the same side, is situated the small town of St. Gene-
vieve, vulgarly called by the people Misere. It was
originally built on the banks of the river, but the
frequency of the inundations forced the inhabitants to
transport their settlement two miles back at the foot of
a small height: there are still a few huts remaining,
inhabited by the traders of the old village.
This little town contains at present twelve hundred
inhabitants of both sexes, whites and blacks, slaves and
OF NORTH AMERICA. 255
freemen, of which two hundred and forty bear arms;
but out of that number, sixty only can be considered as
soldiers.
On the upper part of the platform on which St.
Genevieve is situated, stands a small fort, of the same
form and constructed with the same kind of materials
as that of St. Lewis; that is to say, square, and sur-
rounded with planks to support the earth, and serve at
the same time for palisadoes. Two pieces of iron cannon
of two pounders, a corporal and two soldiers, were at
this time the sole defence of the place.
This position on the whole is extremely bad, being
much too distant from the river to protect its navigation.
The fort on the south-east side is entirely under the
command of the platform on which it is built ; the farther
you go to the back of this position, the more the ground
rises gradually; and these heights being connected with
each other a great length of space, and commanding
each other successively, it is impossible to occupy them all
at once. This situation ought therefore to be abandoned as
an intermediary point between St. Lewis and the Ohio,
as had been once projected. We shall take occasion
to point out another far superior in all respects.
Two miles to the south-east of St. Genevieve, on the
height, is an increasing settlement, called Lusiere: this is
-i54 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
a concession which has lately been made by the government
to a French refugee of this name, who fled, like many
others, from assassins and executioners.
Two leagues from St. Genevieve, towards the sources
of a rivulet which empties itself into the Mississipi, is a
lead mine and a lime quarry, both of which are at present
worked, on the heights of Marimeck. An iron mine,
extremely rich, has been lately discovered, but is not
worked for want of hands and means. Mr. Burd, an
inhabitant of New Jersey, and in partnership with Robert
Morris, has visited it and extracted several pieces of ore,
which have been found by professional men to be of the
first quality: this mine is so much the more precious, as
it is the only one of the kind hitherto known in Upper
Louisiana. We brought away specimens of these various
minerals.
All conveyances from St. Genevieve to St. Lewis are
made by water; no communication by land for carriages
having yet been opened : the road at present is practicable
only for horsemen and foot passengers.
The passage of the river, in the communication of
St. Lewis with Kaokia, either from St. Genevieve to
Kaskaskias, or across the Missouri from St. Lewis to
St. Charles, is made with canoes of different sizes; but
these boats are not large enough to carry either horses or
OF NORTH AMERICA. 255
carriages ; the horses are commonly made to swim across
the stream.
RECAPITULATION OF THE DISTANCES
TROM ST. LEWIS TO THE NEIGHBOURING VILLAGES.
Spanish side. Leagues.
From St. Lewis to Florissant . . 4
From St. Lewis to Marais des Liards . 4i
From St. Lewis to St. Charles . . 6
From St. Lewis to St. Genevieve . . 24
Independently of the description which we shall give
under the article of agriculture, of the vegetation that
clothes and the productions that enrich this fine country,
we deem it necessary to add, that it abounds in all kinds
of gramen, from dog's grass to reeds thirty feet high;
the great and lesser kinds of mallows, violets, nettles,
dandelions, maiden hair, ferns, horsetail, thistles, briars,
squinant, iris, cresses, milfoil, St. John's wort, centaury,
hen bane, pellitory of the wall, vervain, mint, thyme,
burdock, endive, hops, storksbill, purslain, sowthistle,
woodsorrell, melilot, trefoil, luzerne, Venus-navel, ginger,
gentian, the second and fourth species of ipecacuanha, the
bastard senna, the bastard indigo, three kinds of sensitives,
256 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
camomile, bugloss, comfrey, wild marjoram, sage, mother
wort, wormwood, poppy, terragon, pumpkin, sorrel,
strawberry plant, asparagus, golden rod, scabious, the
winter cherry, liJac, palma-christi, Indian fig-tree, rose-
mary, marjoram, several of the flowers cultivated in
Europe, the great blind nettle, blind oats, white root,
red root, the spindle tree, the liana, dragon's blood,
geranium, and fumitory, friends-root, white meadow
wood, the tea-tree of Labrador, and the Obelia.
The trees most common are five or six kinds of walnut?
trees and of oaks, the mulberry-tree, apple-tree, pear,
plumb, and cherry-trees ; the ash, the willow, the elm,
the hawthorn,, the poplar, the beech, laurels, acacias,
plane trees, pines, firs, red and white cedars, the cypress,
peach-trees, fig-trees, and chesnuts; pomegranates, the
thorny ash, the small cotton tree, and the little oak. We
found, also, the orange, lemon, and lime trees, with every
other production of the most favored climes.
Every season presents its peculiar vegetable produc-
tions ; it would, therefore, be almost impossible for a
single individual to examine and give an exact enumeration
of the whole. We collected our information on this
subject from Mr. Perron, who had resided in Upper
Louisiana ten years, and who had been continually em-
ployed in the study of natural history.
OF NORTH AMERICA.
PLAN
OF AN INTRENCHED CAMP UNDER ST, LEWIS.
St. Lewis is situated on the slope of a curtain D, which
descends, by insensible degrees, to the banks of the Mis-
sissipi.
This curtain is commanded by the height E, and the
small curtain F, which is itself lower than this height.
The space G, at the western part of the town, is a
plain accessible on all sides, formed of natural meadows,
without trees or any shelter whatever, and which rises
by an imperceptible gradation towards the country.
At the south-west is a piece of water B, broad and
deep, surrounded by heights and defiles : from this piece
of water issues a rivulet, which throws itself into the
Mississipi, crossing a defile formed by the two curtains
H and I.
The most elevated of these curtains is that of H, on
the side of the country.
The side opposite M, to the north of the town, is open
and accessible on the whole of its front. The ground is
sloping, from the summit of the curtain F to the bank of
the river.
yol. i. l 1
258 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
Thus, from the west and north side of the piece of
water to the hank of the Mississipi, the ground offers no
natural impediment to the enemy's penetrating into the
town. This space is about a thousand yards.
The roads are easy on all the points surrounding the
place, and the only natural obstacle to the movements of
the enemy is in the southern part of the town, from the
piece of water B to the river.
From this side the heights L and 12 command a pari
of the curtain, which forms the embankment of the
rivulet A.
A bad fort, with four small bastions, narrow and ill-
placed, formed by a range of palisadoes to keep up the
earth, occupies at present the platform E.-
A great detached bastion, No. 2, invested with a wall
of freestone twelve feet in height, and two feet and an
an half thick, with large embrasures, without ditch or
palisadoes, is erected in the northern part of the town,
the whole front of which it commands as far as the river.
The face and left flank command also the western
part of the town ; but left to its own defence, which is
null, this display of cannon becomes altogether useless,
since the enemy would march directly on its front and
right flank, and would carry it sword in hand, before
attempting to enter the town.
OP NORTH AMERICA. 269
Their fire then directed on the fort No. 1, would over-
whelm it in an instant, and the fort falls of itself.
Thus are these two important points so ill occupied,
that they can only be maintained during the time necessary
for the enemy to approach the bastion No. 2, and turn the
artillery on the fort No. 1.
According to this sketch, different modes of defence
present themselves; it remains only to decide on those
which are the most speedy and suitable.
FIRST PLAN.
The platform E being of a proper extent to admit a
work susceptible of a good defence in itself, having also
the advantage, from its position, of commanding the whole
town and a great part of the surrounding country, the
whole of the defence might be concentered on this spot,
by occupying at the same time the points L and 12, which
command it, without any apprehension of leaving the
town open.
The fort marked No. 1, on the papillon, would perfectly
answer this end; the part Q of the platform should be
occupied by a redoubt in front of the glacis, supported by
a good communication, in order to take the reverse on a
l 1 2
i6o SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
point of the slope of the platform, and in the front of the
fort. A solid work should be made in L, the defence of
which should be connected with that of the principal
fort ; a battery should be raised at point 12, and these
works should be surrounded with an abatis 22 and 2 5.
The battery 2 should be rased, which could only do
harm to this plan of defence, without any possibility of
advantage.
The importance of the town of St. Louis, situated
almost at the mouth of the Missouri, and which may be
regarded as the key of Upper Louisiana, will require,
^perhaps, sooner or later, the adoption of this plan.
SECOND PLAN.
The platform E should be occupied by an earthen fort,
conformable to the chief inclosure of the fort No. 1, traced
on the papillon ; the capacity should be diminished, and
the half moon and covered way be suppressed. The fort
should be surrounded with a large and deep ditch, invested
with a small glacis palisadoed and double : the parapet of
the work should be bordered according to the profile
opposite.
The battery 2 should be put a barbette, surrounded
by a good ditch, with a small palisadoed glacis ; a small
OF NORTH AMERICA. 26 1
covered way may be afterwards added, and a few places
cVarmes, indispensable to make cross fires. From its neck,
a line a redans in the earth should be drawn, marked 8, 8,
covered with a ditch and palisidoed glacis to the bank of
the Mississipi : the houses 21 behind this line may be
placed at the instant of the attack, at small expence and
speedily, in a state of defence : if they were constructed
of stones or brick, they would powerfully support this
line.
In the bastion 2, only six-pounders should be placed ;
so that if it be carried, its artillery could not resist with
advantage that of the fort 1, where should be a few pieces
of twenty-four, which would soon silence it.
The mounds 6 and 7 should be rased ; it would be
useless to think of fortifying them.
The works in earth, 3, 4, and 5, should be erected ;
and the whole of this system should Jbe covered with posts
of a general abatis, 20, 20, etc.
On the southern side, across the embankment of the
rivulet A, dikes of earth should be formed, i3, i4, i5, 16,
and 17, in order to procure an inundation in the whole
length of this embankment ; these dikes should be sup-
ported by the fleches 9, 10, 11, and 12, and the summit
should be covered with trees, in the form of an abatis, to
prevent them from serving as a passage to the enemy. It
262 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
must be observed, that the whole of these works should
be in earth.
If the time permitted, the line a redans 18 should be
drawn, such as it is pointed in the plan, like that on the
opposite side of the town, marked 8, 8. The houses 21
on this side should also be put in a state of defence, to
stop the enemy, in case he should have passed the inun-
dation.
Examination should be made on the places, whether
the works 5, 4, and 5, embrace too great an extent of
ground; for the more the defence is parcelled out, the
more difficult it is to preserve the order and connexion
necessary to render it successful j especially where there
are neither disciplined troops, nor officers well skilled in
military tactics.
On this hypothesis, these three posts, or at least the
Nos. 4 and 5, may be suppressed, and an abatis formed,
such as is marked 22, joining the great abatis at the pointC,
and from thence continuing it, as it is marked, to the banks
of the Mississipi. This position would be very respectable
under the cross fires of the two forts 1 and 2, supported
also by the houses 22, 21, which are themselves protected
by the forts.
The construction of two or three works might be
avoided ; and the men they would require might be
OP NORTH AMERICA. 2 63
advantageously distributed in the other forts. The No. 5,
however, seems indispensable, on account of the great
interval between the redoubts 1 and 2.
The fort 1 may be furnished with fifteen pieces of
twenty-four, twelve, six, and four pounders.
The bastion 2 should be furnished with eight six
pounders j two four pounders would be sufficient in the
work 3 ; two in the fleche 5, and three in that marked 4.
The two pieces o£ the Jtecke 5 should be drawn back into
the redoubt 3, and the three in the work 4 into the fort 1,
as soon as the enemy had forced the abatis.
Two four pounders should be placed in the work 10,
and two six pounders in the lunette 12.
Thirty-four pieces of cannon would be sufficient to
support all these positions, which would require three
hundred cannoneers to man them in case of attack.
Twelve hundred infantry would likewise be necessary
to defend the whole of these works; by infantry I mean
regular troops, militia, and Indians.
3oo cannoneers.
1200 infantry.
Total i5oo men.
264 SURVEY OF THE WESTER W RIVERS
This plan of defence has of late been partly put in
execution by M. Finiels, a French engineer, who was
immediately dispatched by the Spanish minister at Phila-
delphia, on the report which I made him of the danger
to which this place was exposed.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 265
CHAPTER XVII.
Description of the River of the Illinois.
The river of the Illinois is situated towards the thirty-
ninth degree thirty minutes northern latitude, and six
leagues above the Missouri, on the eastern side of the
Mississipi. This river is about five hundred yards wide
at its mouth.
The chain of rocks and high mornes which begins at
the mouth of the Kaskaskias, and which runs parallel
with the Mississipi, passing behind the Meadow of the
Rock, St. Philips, Kaokia, and de Piasas, turns near the
mouth of the river of the Illinois, and keeps at greater
or less remote distances, on its eastern side, the same
direction as this river.
After ascending the river eighteen miles, on the
eastern side, we reached a small river, called Macopn,
vol. r. Mm
266 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
which signifies in the Indian language White Yam. This
river is about twenty yards broad at its mouth, and is
navigable nine miles.
In this space, the maple or sugar tree, the asli, and
other wood fit for construction, are very common.
At slight distances on each side of the river, are fine
natural meadows : the earth on these banks does not break
off like those of .the Mississipi. We passed several islands,
some of which were from nine to twelve miles long and
three miles broad j after which the breadth of the river
continues to be about four hundred yards, and runs N.N. W.
Thirty-six miles above the Macopin is the village of
the Priorias, situated at one mile distance from the left
bank, and behind which are several small lakes, that
communicate with each other, and are surrounded with
natural meadows of great extent. The passage which
these lakes have opened to the river is very narrow,
and practicable only for small canoes. The high chain,
which follows the river, falls back here to a considerable
distance.
Twenty-seven miles farther up the river are several
small islands, covered with a great quantity of animals;
and eighteen miles beyond is another island of some
extent, called Pierre a Heches. Near this island mountains
not lofty, border the western side of the river ; on those
OP NORTH AMERICA. 267
heights the Indians find the stones with which they
point their arrows.
The eastern side is bordered by natural meadows to
a great extent : the land is very fertile, and watered
by a multitude of small rivulets which are never dry.
The heights are covered with the tallest ash trees; the
banks of the river are high, its waters are limpid, rolling
over a bed of sand and white clay.
Eighteen miles farther up is Mine River, called by the
Canadians Bad Land (Mauvaise Terre). During this
space, the aspect of the country continues the same : on
the east lie natural meadows, which are sometimes nine,
twelve, and fifteen miles broad ; on the west is the chain
of small hills, that runs parallel with the course of the
river.
Mine River is not more than fifty yards wide at its
mouth ; its current is very rapid, and its banks on each
side are low, but rise afterwards gradually. The lands
along this river are of a very fine quality, particularly for
corn and pasturage.
Twenty-one miles above Mine River is the Sagamond,
situated on the western side, at the extremity of the chain
of small mornes. This river is about one hundred yards
broad, and is navigable one hundred and eighty miles for
small canoes; the right side is. very low, and the left
Mm 2
268 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
bordered during a space of six or nine miles by small
mornes.
Twenty miles from the Sagamond is the river Demi
Quian, on the same side. This river is fifty yards broad,
and is navigable one hundred and twenty miles.
Nine miles above this river is Demi Quian Lake,
situated on the western side. This lake, of a circular
form, is at least six miles in diameter, and empties itself
into the Illinois river by a small channel, which is always
four feet deep. The banks are bordered by natural mea-
dows, especially on the western side, where the view is
unbounded. This part of the country has little wood; the
lands are fine in every direction, and the waters of the river
and lake perfectly limpid. The course of the river, proceed-
ing from the lake, is eastward, and the navigation excellent.
Twelve miles above the lake, and on the same side, is
the river of Seseme Quian. This river is forty yards
broad, is navigable for canoes sixty miles, and flows
through a very fertile country.
Nine miles higher, and on the same side, is the river
March, thirty yards broad, and navigable nine miles only
for small skiffs. The country here begins to rise gradually
towards the west.
Nine miles higher, on the eastern side, is the river
Michilimaekinac, fifty yards broad, and navigable ninety
OF NORTH AMERICA. 2gq
miles. There are thirty or forty small islands at its
mouth, which at a distance have the appearance of a
village. On the banks of this river there is excellent
timber; the red and white cedar, the pine, the maple,
and walnut tree. The land is high on both sides, and
the woods are intersected at certain distances by fine
natural meadows, covered with grass of the best quality
for cattle.
It is worthy of remark, that in the space of one
hundred and fifty miles there is not a single river or
rivulet on the eastern side, whilst the western side abounds
with both.
The river Michilimackinac forms the line of separation
of the counties of St. Clair and Knox from the state of
the North- West Territory.
Twelve miles above the Michilimackinac is the village
of Pioria, called also hy the Canadians the Piss; it is
inhabited by fifteen Canadian families, who till the land
and trade with the Indians. There is an old fort situated
at the southern extremity of a considerable lake, called
the Illinois Lake, formed by the river, and which is about
twenty-one miles long and three miles broad. In this
lake there is neither rock, shoal, nor current. The ruins
of the block-house that formed the fort are still seen:
the platform on which it was built affords a delightful
270
prospect
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
On the north the lake opens in its whole
extent; on the west vast natural meadows close the
horizon, and towards the east of the lake terminates
the chain of rocks, which taking its rise behind the
Kaskaskias, the Kaokia, etc. follows constantly the same
direction as the Illinois River.
RECAPITULATION OF DISTANCES.
From the month of the Mississipi to
Miles,
The river Macopin
18
Priorias
. . 36
Several small islands
37
Island Pierre a fleche
. . . 18
Mine River
18
The Sagamond
■ 1 . 21
Demi Quian River
31
Demi Quian Lake
9
Semi Quian River
. - . 12
March River
,• 9
Michilimackinac River
9
Piss Village
12
210
OF NORTH AMERICA. 271
CHAPTER XVIII.
Missouri. — General observations. — St. Charles. —Astonishing
prospect.— Miserable state of population.— River Gasconnade.
—River Osage.— River d la Mine.— Cher aton River. — The
Great River. — Prairie du feu.— Cans River.— Little Plate
River. — Nidmaha River. — Nichenanbatonais River. — Plate
River.— Otoktata nation.— Great Panis nation.— Wolf River.
—Little Sioux River. — Maha nation. — Great Sioux River. —
St. James River.— Qui-court River.— Poncas nation. — White
River. _ Observations. — Oconona nation. — Ricaras nation.—
Chaguienne River.— Chaguienne nation.— Nations allies of the
Chaguiens.—Padou nation.— Baldhead nation.— Probabilities
respecting the distance of the Southern Ocean. — Mandanes
nation. — Rig-bellied nation. — Observations respecting the
forests. — Asseniboine nation.
The mouth of the Missouri is situated towards the
thirty-ninth degree of latitude; its direction is north-west,
running east-south-east, and it empties itself into the
river Mechacipy, or Mississipi, a word which signifies
2<-j2 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
in the Indian language Great River, five leagues above
St. Lewis of the Illinois.
No one has yet penetrated as far as the spot whence
this river takes its source;* but it is highly probable, from
the reports of the indigenous nations, and the structure
of this part of the continent, that the Missouri flows
from the chain of mountains, called by Mackenzie " Stony
Mountains," and by the Indians " Yellow Mountains j"
and which are only a prolongation of the Cordejleras. It
has also been presumed, that this chain of mountains must
run parallel with the coast of the Southern or Pacific
Ocean, at the distance of an hundred or an hundred and
twenty leagues.f
The banks of this river have been explored the
length of more than six hundred leagues, without finding
any rapid, fall, or cataract. What it has in common
with all other rivers, the banks of which are uninhabited,
is, that it is sometimes encumbered with drift-wood; but
this inconvenience is seldom perceived but near its mouth.
Its current is often divided by islands, which form
several channels; this renders its navigation difficult in
dry seasons, from the uncertainty of knowing which is
* This journey is now undertaken by order of the President of the
United States.
f See the .chart of the Upper Missouri.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 270
the channel that contains most water. This river is from
three quarters of a mile to a mile and an half broad, and
when the passages are known, it has sufficient depth for
the largest boats at all seasons.
The river Plate disturbs the waters of the Missouri,
and gives them a considerable rapidity, which has, how-
ever, been much exaggerated. Its course is gentle above
this river, and its waters limpid ; and the further you
ascend, the slower is its current.
One of the great obstacles to navigation on this river
is the direction of the winds, which blow nearly eleven
months in the year from the north-west; and often with
such violence, that it is found necessary to unload the
boats, in order to avoid their being sunk, not being able
to find a safe shelter. But it is chiefly in dry seasons
that this danger is imminent; for when the waters are
high, it is easy to secure the boats or barges, by means
of the trees, which almost every where line the banks
of this river.
The Missouri, from its mouth to the river Plate, flows
through a country extremely diversified : the lands on the
left side, towards the north, are of the best quality ; fine
plains sufficiently undulated to carry off the water, inter-
sected with woods of a lofty kind, and which bears marks
of the greatest fertility: the right side, on the contrary,
vol. 1. n n
2^4 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
is broken by barren heights, and at equal distances by
small vallies, which for the most part are covered with
sand and gravel.
The river Plate in the whole of its course runs through
a country of this nature, the chalky soil of which gives
its waters a whitish color.
The river Qui-court and the White River (la Riviere
Blanche) traverse countries of similar extent; neither
trees nor herb, except wild thyme, are to be seen; and of
animals, only the rabbit and the small meadow dog.
Beyond the Plate, as far as the base of the Yellow
Mountains, the Missouri flows between two chains, which
run parallel with its course, and which are a continuation
of steep rocks, covered with fine and short grass. In
some places, however, these chains are broken, and the
intervals are formed of meadows of large extent, which
are frequented by numerous droves of buffaloes and roe-
bucks.
Beyond these chains are vast meadows, which stretch
away to the west, without any interruption, towards the
Yellow Mountains, and which are intersected only by
the rivers, that throw themselves into the Missouri, or
interspersed with small clumps of wood of the poplar and
willow kind, or white wood of similar growth.
About two leagues from the mouth of the Missouri,
OF NORTH AMERICA. 275
and on the left side, is situated the town of St. Charles,
which is the last of the settlements belonging to the
Whites to the north-west of the continent j it is also at
this point that the lands on that side begin to rise, the
country which lies between St. Charles and the Mississipi
being low, covered with rushes, and swampy. A mile
beyond this town are three beautiful eminences, detached
from each other, called the Breasts (les Mamelles) ; from
which we beheld a most astonishing prospect.
To the east the view is interrupted by cliffs which are
not less than three or four hundred feet high, and bound
in this part the left side of the Mississipi. In turning
towards the north, the river of the Illinois, flowing
from the lakes, runs over a bed of pebbles, and, after
a thousand windings, and freeing a number of falls and
rapids, joins the Mississipi. Certain portions of this river,
descried at intervals, run in nearly the same direction,
overhung with dark forests; a gentle slope renders its
current slow and easy ; and its fertile branches are
decorated by cypress trees and lianas of graceful and
infinitely varied elegance. In some places, marshy swamps
covered with bamboos, in which the most venomous
reptiles fix their abode, form a contrast of all that nature
can present of beauty and deformity. Towards the north-
west the scene changes altogether : here the rapid
276 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
Missouri, with tumultuous noise, rolls on its muddy
waters j its steep banks, undermined continually by the
violence of the current, sometimes fill its bed with the
wrecks of trees, and accumulate obstacles that are almost
insurmountable. Towards the south, the Mississipi
again presents itself, its waters discolored by those of
the Missouri, flowing through the fine country of the
Illinois, and stretching along till lost in the horizon, after
having its course divided and broken by a multitude of
charming islands. This view is so highly decorated, that
it would seem as if art had lavished all its resources to
embellish this part of the continent ; and yet these beauties
are the workmanship only of nature. It were unjust to
assert that these descriptions are the exaggerated tales of
travellers; imagination, taken in this sense, does not de-
serve this reproach, relatively to the beauties of nature ;
imagination fails when with its most vivid coloring it
attempts to vie with nature, and remains far below its
model, even in its most eloquent descriptions. What an
immense distance between the ideas which are excited in
us by the view of the finest paintings, and the spectacle
of those magnificent forests, those immense natural mea-
dows, those majestic floods, and stupendous cataracts
which astonish us in the new world! The imagination of
man can only surpass the works of his own hands, can
OF NORTH AMERICA. 277
only embellish the objects of art; but when we contem-
plate the sublimity of nature, human conception sinks
far below the reality, and the impression made on the
mind by such scenery may be felt, but can never ade-
quately be described.
St. Charles contains about an hundred or an hundred
and twenty ill-constructed houses: the inhabitants do
not till the ground, though it be extremely fertile ; their
ordinary occupations are hunting and trading with the
Indians; a few hire themselves out as rowers; and it
would be difficult to find a collection of individuals more
ignorant, stupid, ugly, and miserable. Such are the sad
effects of extreme poverty, with its train of cares and evils,
that it destroys not only the beauty of the person but even
the intellectual powers, and blunts all those feelings of
delicacy and sensibility which belong to a state of ease,
and the advantages of a good education.
Twenty-eight leagues from St. Charles, towards the
north, is a river, called Gasconnade, which is about
thirty fathoms wide at its mouth: this river is full of
rapids, and navigable only in high waters for small boats,
during the space of fifty leagues.
Ten leagues higher, and on the same side, the river
of the Great Osages empties itself, after flowing sixty
leagues, as far as the village of the Great Osages, through
278 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
a country extremely fertile, but low and swampy on both
sides.* Its navigation is safe at all seasons, as far as the
village, for boats and barges.f
Twenty leagues higher, and on the same side, the
Mine River empties itself. The country it flows through
is barren ; it is a continuation of high meadows, on a
gravelly soil: the navigation of the river is unknown.
At the distance of five leagues, and on the northern
side, is the river Cheraton, navigable only for small
hunting boats ;§ the meadows through which it flows
are high, but fertile.
Nine miles higher, and on the same side, flows the
Great River, which is navigable eighty leagues for large
barks j it communicates towards its sources by a small
* Among the papers which were taken from us by the governor of
Louisiana, composing five chapters relative to the Missouri, was a particular
description of the river of the Great Osages, from its mouth to Fort Caron-
delet, as well as that of the river of the Arkansas. Baron Carondelet,
indeed, wilh a politeness somewhat dilalory, sent them back to me six months
after, by the American brig the Betsy, Captain Peter David; but the bearer
having thrown them into the sea, they were lost to me as well as to the
public. — See Proces-verbal, Appendix, No. 2.
-J- What follows, after the river of the Osages, are accounts given to us
by different travellers, who traded to the Upper Missouri.
§ A kind of canoe, which carries only two men.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 27a
carrying place of ten or twelve miles, with the river
Dumoins, which falls into the Mississipi.
Twenty-six leagues beyond the Great River, on the
southern side, is a vast plain, called Fire Meadow (Prairie
du Feu).
Ten leagues higher than Fire Meadow is the mouth
of the river des Cans. This river is navigable an hundred
leagues for barks and barges of every kind ; it runs through
very fertile lands, flat, well wooded, and intersected by
rich meadows ; but the country, such as we have
already described, does not extend farther than one or
two leagues from the banks. In ascending this river fifty
leagues, we find a fortified point, on which is situated the
great village of the Cans. The branch which runs to the
West is called the River of White Water ; on that of
the south-west the Indian nation called Republican is
established.
Five leagues further up the Missouri, and beyond
the mouth of the Cans, is the little river Plate, which
is navigable at no season of the year, and is dry during
the summer.
Fifty leagues beyond the little river Plate, on the
southern side,, is the river of the Great Nidnfaha, navigable
only for hunting boats ; it flows through high meadows
and lands of a bad quality.
38o SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
Ten leagues higher, on the same side, is the Little
Nidmaha, which is not navigable for any boat, and runs
across a country that is high and barren.
Fifteen leagues from the northern side of the Little
Nidmaha is the river Nichenanbatonais, navigable an
hundred leagues for hunting boats; these lands are bare,
and of the same quality as the preceding.
Fifteen leagues higher is the mouth of the river Plate,
situated on the western side : this river is as large as the
Missouri, and runs with such rapidity, that oars and
poles are insufficient to resist the current; the only mode
of going up is by towing. But to use the towing-line,
the waters must be low ; and then this expedient is
dangerous, on account of the quicksands, against which
boats have sometimes struck, and disappeared with the
whole crew. These sands may be distinguished, as we
have already observed, at a considerable distance, by
their reflecting surface, which is occasioned by the humi-
dity of the soil, and the action of the sun.
This river is shallow, and its bed and sides full of
quicksands ; its waters are white and of a chalky color ;
the lands through which it flows are also chalky; its
banks are bordered by small bare slopes, and the aspect
of the country is in general dry and barren.
At the confluence of the Plate River is situated the
OF NORTH AMERICA. 28 1
village of the Otoktata nation, which consists of three
hundred warriors : this nation is stationary, and is com-
posed of good hunters.
Twelve or thirteen leagues above the village Otoktata,
is the village of the Great Panis (Grand Panis), situated
on the same side : this nation is settled, and is composed
of seven or eight hundred warriors, who are neither brave
nor fond of hunting.
Five leagues from the village of the Great Panis, and
on the opposite side, is Wolf Paver (la Riviere des Loups),
which flows across low meadows and lands extremely
fertile. At its mouth is the nation of the Panimahas,
which counts six hundred warriors, who are extremely
brave, but bad hunters.
Thirty leagues beyond the Plate River, on the northern
side of the Missouri, is the little river of the Sioux, which
is navigable only for small hunting canoes.
Twenty leagues above this last river, and on the
southern side, is the nation of the Mahas ; their village, or
their huts, are built in a fine plain, at two leagues dis-
tance from the Missouri. This nation is sedentary, and
cultivates Indian corn and gourds. In the month of
June, these Indians usually set out in considerable bodies
to hunt the buffalo, and return in the month of Au-
gust, to gather in their harvest. At the approach of
282 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
autumn, and towards the month of October, they again
leave their habitations, but in small bands, at the head of
which is always a chief, to hunt the beaver, the otter,,
the roebuck, and other fur animals ; they return towards
the end of January. This nation is supposed to consist of
eleven or twelve hundred warriors.
Six leagues above the nation of the Mahas, and on the
north-east side, the waters of the great river of the Sioux
empty themselves. It is on this river that the people of
the Sioux, who inhabit the borders of the river of the
Moins and St. Peter, come at different seasons of the year
to hunt wild bullocks and other animals; having commu-
nication with this river by a carrying place of twelve
miles.
Forty leagues above ibis last river that of St. James
discharges itself, navigable, according to the report of the
Indians, during sixty leagues for great canoes: it flows
along very fertile meadows, that are covered with animals.
This river abounds particularly in beavers, and receives,
a little below its sources, several small rivers, of which
one is called- Red Stone River (la Riviere aux Pierres
Rouges), from a quarry of stones of that color which is
found on its banks, and which the Indians employ in
making pipes and calumets, that are highly esteemed,
since none resembling them are found in any part of the
OF NORTH AMERICA". 283
Missouri. This quarry lies four or five feet below the
vegetable earth.
At the distance of twenty leagues, on the western side
of the Missouri, is the river Qui-court, which lakes its
source to the west-south-west, and very far above its
jnouth. According to the Indians, this is, of all the rivers
which are frequented, the most abundant in beavers and
otters. Its course is so rapid, and broken by so many
falls, that it is impossible to navigate it either in canoes
or skiffs.
. Two leagues above its mouth is situated the village of
the Poncas. Their huts are built on a small eminence
about a league from the Missouri. Around this hill are
fine meadows, watered by a small river which is ex-
tremely pure and limpid, and which gives to this site an
agreeable aspect
Although these Indians have their fixed dwelling in
this place, they are not sedentary, and do not cultivate
the .ground, but live by hunting wild bullocks, which
abound in these vallies; they kill also great numbers of
otters, beavers, and roebucks.
Thirty leagues above the river Qui- court, and on the
same side, the White River (la Riviere Blanche) empties
itself: the waters are as white as lime water, running
oo 2
284 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
through a country the soil of which is pure chalk. This
river is not large, or navigable for any kind of vessels.
Ten leagues higher, the Missouri makes a great bend
towards the west, forming a circuit of ten or fifteen
leagues, at the end of which it resumes its ordinary
direction towards the north-west. The neck of the
peninsula, formed by this circuit, is about four or five
miles ; and as this space is only low land, without moun-
tains or rocks, it will be easy at some future period to
make a canal, which would shorten this navigation twelve
or fourteen leagues.
Twelve leagues above this bend, and at the place
where it finishes towards the west, is a small river, called
by the hunters the Little Missouri, and by the Indians
Still Water. It is navigable for canoes only in the spring,
when the snows melt, or after great falls of rain.
A horde of Sioux, called Oconona, formerly allies of
the Ricaras, dwelt habitually on this river ; but they have
lately been driven away, and it is not known in what
latitude they now live.
The nation of the Aricaras were situated ten leagues
higher on the western side of the Missouri ; they were
divided into two villages at half a league distance from
each other, and which they have lately forsaken to live
near the Mandanes. The Aricaras were formerly very
OF NORTH AMERICA. 2 85
numerous, consisting of thirty-two villages, now destroyed
in part by the Sioux. The small-pox has also made such
ravages in this nation, that they are reduced to five
hundred warriors at most.
Two leagues above the second village of the Aricaras,
on the same side, the river Chaguienne empties itself.
This river is rather large at its mouth, but shallow; so
that the navigation is made with difficulty, and only in
canoes. It rises in the west, in mountains which are very
steep and rocky; its banks are covered with fine timber,
and, according to the Indians, it is much frequented by
beavers.
About forty leagues from its mouth, it divides itself
into two branches; the western branch is called Cherry-
branch River (la Riviere aux Cerises a Grappe). The
Chaguienne nation is settled a little above the fork, and
cultivate Indian corn and tobacco: the Chaguiennes are
divided into three hordes; the first, which is the most
considerable, bears the name of Chaguienne; the second
that of Vouisy; and the third that ofChouta: they hunt
the wild bullock the whole length of this river, from its
source to its mouth; traverse even several chains of steep
mountains, that separate, as they assert, in several
places, this vast country; in the midst of which are a
great quantity of lakes and marshes, that, according to
286 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
their report, form the place of meeting of the different
tribes of beavers, These Indians recount on this subject
the most absurd stories, and which are highly charac-
teristic of their ignorance and superstition; we shall cite
one of these tales, as an instance of the credulity of this
simple people.
One of these lakes, they assert, is much larger than
the rest, and which no animal dares approach ; there is
always a great quantity of wild bullocks in its environs,
but every human being dreads its neighbourhood. In
the midst of this lake is an habitation of beavers of an
extraordinary size and height, surrounded by an infinite
number of lesser ones. Every night, even when the
weather is calm, a noise, like that of the sea agitated by
the wind, is heard on this lake.
Two young warriors, excited by curiosity, once con-
cealed themselves four days and four nights, in order
to discover what could occasion this horrible noise,
and also to see the spirit king of the beavers, wJaich
dwells in this great lodge, as they had been assured by
their old men. They saw nothing during three days,
hut heard in the night a sullen noise in the lake, the
water* of which rose high on the bank, and retreated
in the morning. The fourth day, towards the evening,
they saw, on the summit of this great lodge, a beaver
OF NORTH AMERICA. 287
of an enormous size, whose hair was quite white, and
a number of other beavers of less size seated around
him. At a certain cry, the whole morass was in motion,
and the waters swelled with a noise so dreadful, that the
two affrighted Indians fled back to their village, and
related what they had seen.
From this ridiculous story, we may draw an infe-
rence not totally destitute of probability : it is very pos-
sible that there may exist in this part a bay of sufficient
extent and depth to reach the base of these mountains ;.
this would explain the noise and motion made by the
waters, and which so much astonished and alarmed
the two Indians. Chesapeak bay furnishes us with an
example.
Independently of these different tribes, this country is
overrun by several other wandering nations, such as the
Cayovuas, the Tocaninaubiches, the Pitapahats, the To-
kiwuakos, friends and allies of the Chaguiennes, but each
having a different language? These last are excellent
hunters j but as they have yet no communication with
the whites, they change their skins and furs for goods
which are furnished them by the Sioux, who have been
a long while in the dependence of the English.
The nation of the Paduas inhabiting the banks of the
river Plate, are distant only ten days march from the
288 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
Missouri, which may be computed at sixty or eighty
common leagues.
The Hulitanes, or Baldheads, a wandering race, occupy
the whole of the great extent from the river Plate to the
source of that of the Arkansas, and stretch along the great
mountains which separate New Mexico from this con-
tinent.
When we interrogate these different nations, aud the
traders who frequent them, respecting the nature of -the
country on the other side of these rocky heights, they all
agree in their information, that beyond these great moun-
tains, which have two, three, and four chains, and after
having travelled several days (six or seven), they reach
the banks of a great river, large, deep, and well wooded,
the waters of which run, to use their own expressions,
to the " setting of the winter." In following the banks
of this river for some days, they find several Indian
villages of a nation unknown, who make use of utensils
of their own invention ; their huts are composed of junks
and long straw ; the Avild bullock, the stag, and other
large animals, which serve for food and clothing to
other Indian nations, are altogether unknown in
these countries; their garments and shoes are made
of the skins of beavers, otters, foxes, wolves, and hares.
Like the Indians they use the bow and arrow pointed
OF NORTH AMERICA.
with bones and flints ; they cultivate Indian corn, the
grain of which, they say, was furnished them by a great
Indian nation, who dwell lower down the river, and who
sow and reap a vast quantity. The women of this nation
wear ear-rings and necklaces of small shells of different
forms, strung on slender thongs of leather, and which
they procure at the entrance of this great river, where
there is a large lake, of which the opposite side is not to
be seen, and the water of which rises and falls con-
siderably at certain times both day and night. The
nations who reside on the borders of this great lake tie
large pieces of meat to the end of a long cord, which they
throw into the water when it is high, and drawing it out
when the water falls away, often find a great quantity
of these little shells sticking to the meat, which they
take off, make holes in them, and tie them to their
neck and ears. A knife, with the name of Cook marked
on it, was found in the hands of one of the chiefs, and
sent to the Governor of Louisiana.
Above the mouth of the river of the Chaguiennes, the
Missouri turns to the north-east, runs for the space of
four or five leagues, and from thence turns to the north-
west, as far as the Mandanes. About fifty leagues above
the villages of the Aricaras, on the eastern side, is a river
VOL. I.
PP
2 gO SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
frequented by the Sioux, called Titons. There are several
small rivers on the western side, none of which are
navigable. The distance from the river of the Cha-
guiennes to the Mandanes nations is computed at about
an hundred leagues. These people were formerly very
numerous, but were attacked several times by the
nations lying to the north of the Missouri, and were
depopulated also by the small-pox. The Mandanes reckon
no more than three hundred men capable of bearing
arms.
The Big Bellies (Gros Ventres), called by the Indians
" the Long-Haired Nation," are more numerous, and
can set on foot eight hundred warriors. They are divided
into two villages, the distance of half a league from each
other, situated on the banks of the Missouri, to the left,
in ascending about two leagues above the Mandanes.
These last are divided into three villages, the greatest of
which is built in a fine country, on the western part of
this river ; and the two others, which are smaller, on the
eastern side, and opposite to each other.
These nations are all settled, and never leave their
villages but by brigades, either for war or the hunting of
wild bullocks, which are numerous in this part of the
country.
OP NORTH AMERICA. 2gi
Near the villages of the Mandanes and Bigbellied
Indians, the forests which border the Missouri are much
thicker, the wood larger and more lofty than that on the
lower part of this river, that is, from the Great River
Plate.
The Asseniboines, a wandering tribe, situated to the
north of the Missouri, with whom the English merchants
of Canada and Hudson's Bay carry on the fur trade,
frequent the Mandanes and the Bigbellied Indians, of
whom they purchase horses, Indian corn, and tobacco,
in exchange for muskets, iron pots, knives, etc.
A few years since, the English merchants built small
forts in several places on a river, called the Red River,
which falls into that of the Asseniboines. The sources of
this last river begin near the Missouri, towards the Man-
danes country. They send their agents by land, either
with horses in the autumn or spring, or with great dogs
in the winter, which run with light and slender traineaux
on the snow, and traffic for bullocks' hides, wolf and fox
skins, in exchange for powder, knives, glass beads, and
vermillion. The passage from the Missouri to this river
is reckoned by travellers who have made it several times,
at a hundred of our common leagues.
At fifty leagues above the villages of the Bigbellied
p p 2
292 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
Indians, fo the west of the Missouri, a great river dis-
charges itself, called Yellow Rock River hy the Indians
(Riviere aux Roches Jaunes), and by the French, Crow
River (Riviere des Corbeaux). This great river flows
from the rocky mountains on the western side : its banks
are well furnished with wood ; such as pines, firs, cedars,
the beech tree, and several other kinds. Along its banks
are likewise found droves of bullocks and other wild
beasts. A number of small rivers which flow into it,
abound with an almost incredible multitude of beavers.
Notwithstanding the concourse of these animals found on
this great river, its waters are as pure as chrystal. Its
current is not so rapid as that of the Missouri. The
Crow nation, a numerous tribe, dwell on its banks, and
higher up, towards its source, are a number of other
Indian nations as yet unknown. Several Indians assured
me that this river is very large and deep to a great
distance above its mouth. A Canadian traveller, named
Menard, who has resided more than sixteen years among
the Mandanes, and who has been several times in quality
of calumet to t&te Crow nation, in company with the
Bigbellied Indians, who are his allies, assured us, that this
river was navigable in all seasons with great pirogues,
for more than an hundred and fifty leagues, and perhaps
OF NORTH AMERICA. 20,5
ivvo hundred from its moulh. He lold us, that it required
from fifteen to twenty days march of an Indian going to
war,* to travel from the Mandanes to this nation.
A fort built at the entrance of this fine river would be
extremely advantageous for opening a considerable com-
merce, not only with the neighbouring nations, but with
those also who inhabit the western part of the Missouri
above this river ; such as the Chionitanons, and the nation
of the Serpent, who dwell among the rocky mountains,
respecting which we have as yet but little information.
A great part of the Assenibojne nation, which over-
spreads the country north of the Missouri above the Man-
danes, would have much more facility, in opening a trade
for its skins with this fort, by following the lake Placoty,
than by taking them to the forts of the Red River, which
belong to the English.
The Sioux, called also Titons, who are divided into
four great wandering tribes, frequent the whole of the
eastern part of the Missouri, from the White River, thirty
leagues above the river Qui-court, as far as the river of the
Titons. They traverse, likewise, the western part of this
* There is a difference between the march of Indians going to war and
returning; in the first case they march much more slowly than in the
second.
294 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
river, to hunt the wild bullocks and beavers, which are
generally in greater abundance there than in any other
part.
The Sioux are accustomed to frequent the Chaguiennes
and the Ricaras, and sometimes the Mandanes ; from the
two first nations, they purchase horses, beaver skins, and
dresses suitable to their customs, and deal with the latter
for Indian corn and tobacco.
The Sioux nations are those who most frequently hunt
beavers, and other animals, which furnish good furs.
These hunters overrun and explore rivers and lakes with-
out fear or apprehension, and carry off every spring a great
quantity of furs from the territory belonging to His Catho-
lic Majesty, which they exchange for goods with the other
nations of the Sioux* dwelling on the rivers St. Peter and
Moins, and which are frequented by the English dealers in
Canada.
It would be easy to establish warehouses on the Mis-
souri, to supply the wants of those Indians ; and thus
deprive the English of this branch of industry, of which
they now have possession.*
The Sioux quit the banks of the Missouri in the begin-
ning of the month of April, and return in the course of
* See the chapter 011 the fur trade.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 2q5
the months of July and August, where they pursue their
eccupations of hunting till the spring.
The months of April, May, and June, are the only
seasons in which the places frequented by them may be
passed with safety ; because they either kill or make pri-
soners of every stranger they can lay hold of.
The whole of the Indian tribes lately known, and of
whom we have spoken, that inhabit the western part of
the Upper Missouri, except the Sioux nations, are the
most mild, humane, and hospitable people on earth; but
it must be observed, that none of the nations inhabiting the
Missouri are cannibals, while those who live eastward of
the Mississipi are almost all addicted to this practice. They
have a great respect and veneration for all white men,
whom they confound indifferently under this denomina-
tion j being incapable of making any distinction between
the Spaniards, French, and English. It is important to
prevent the latter from obtaining settlements among these
people.
When I undertook this expedition, I had determined
not to enter into any details respecting the natives, and
still less to listen to those marvellous stories which travel-
lers record in their descriptions of distant countries. I am
induced, however, to break this resolution, by relating
296 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
two facts, which appeared to me so very remarkable,
that I thought I might allow myself this exception.
During my abode in the Illinois, I had an opportunity
of forming an acquaintance with a young physician, of the
name of Rosse, interesting as well for his talents as for the
courtesy of his manners. What had most struck him, he
often told me, in the different excursions which he had
made into the inland countries, was the character of the
Indians, who are every where the same with respect to
their patience, their indolence, and their insensibility
both physical and moral.* He did not think with me,
that this indifference of character proceeded from their
education, as I had often endeavoured to persuade him,
but from the nature of their blood, which was much
thicker, and circulated more slowly than in the whites.
To prove what he advanced, he engaged me to repeat the
same experiments which he had already made; to compare
the pulsation of an Indian with that of a white j taking
* An Indian is sometimes seen seated at the foot of a tree, employed a
whole day in ruhbing two stones, one against the other, and he will begin
again the next morning, and continue his task till he has given them the
polish he desires. This operation lasts sometimes a month. Every one
knows with what indifference Indians support what we civilised nations call
horrible pains.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 2<yj
care that the stature, age, and strength of both should
be as near as possible the same. This idea seemed so
ingenious, that I resolved to put it in execution without
delay.
I knew that several bodies of Indians, newly come
from the Upper Missouri to purchase articles of traffic for
the hunting season of winter, at St. Lewis, had settled
near St. Charles. These Indians, perfect children of
nature, appeared to me preferable for my experiment to
the Kaskaskias or Kiokias, inhabitants of the Illinois,
already corrupted by their intercourse with the Whites.
For the farther we penetrate into the woods and deserts,
the more humane and hospitable we find the Indian ; the
more distant he is from the Whites, the less is he infected
with the vices of society. I went, accompanied by Adju-
tant Warin, an interpreter, and two of my suite, among
the Indians j and by. means of a few customary presents,
induced a Mandane and a chief of the Great Osages to
submit to the experiment I proposed to make. The Man-
dane was about five feet three inches (French feet), and
exactly of the same height and size as one of my suite, who
was an American, and born at Pittsburgh. The Osage
was five feet ten inches and an half, which was my height;
he was somewhat less robust, but of the same age> forty-
vol. i. Qq
298 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
five years. Three trials, repeated at the interval of half an
hour, and by a stop watch, gave the following results :
The American, 69 pulsations in a minute.
The Mandane, 60 pulsations.
Difference.-.©,.
The Osage 62 pulsations.
Myself. 76 pulsations.
Difference i3.
I repeated the experiment with Adjutant Warin and
the Osage, as the Adjutant was nearly of the same stature
as myself, but more phlegmatic ; the difference was only
ten pulsations, that is, Warin 72, the Indian 62.
During the course of my expedition, I had an oppor-
tunity of repeating this experiment,* at Cape Girardot,
with two Indians of Upper Canada, a Loup and a Cha-
vanon, and also among the Arkansas. The result of these
different trials was, that I found the nearest approach
* I am sorry that I had not thought of trying this experiment on
children ; but I intend to repair this omission, as well as many others, if
I again undertake this expedition, which I have much the wish to
accomplish.
OF NORTH AMERICA. ggq
between an Indian and a White to be nine pulsations, and
the most remote sixteen.*
This fact, no doubt, is fitted to excite reflection in
persons of observation ; but that which I am about to
mention, is no less worthy of notice.
In the number of different nations which I found
encamped near St. Charles, one in particular drew my
attention, from the distinctive mark which ornamented
both sexes ; the men had great rattlesnakes twined around
their necks, and the women also around their arms ; they
played with these reptiles as others would amuse them-
selves with a necklace or bracelet. My interpreter, to
whom I expressed my astonishment at this singular custom,
informed me, that these Indians were of the nation of
the Serpent, dwelling near the Yellow Mountains, on
the right side of the Missouri; that they bore the name
of the reptile, which they had adopted for their ma-
nitou; as others assumed that of the fox, the wolf, and
the hawk. After this explanation, nothing remained but
to discover how they had succeeded in rendering these
* I must observe that I had the precaution to put in contrast with these
Indians, French, Americans, and Spaniards, without finding any sensible
difference.
Q q 2
50O SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
animals so familiar, and depriving them of their destruc-
tive qualities. I thought at first that they had had the
precaution of taking out the two incisive teeth, through
which the poison distils into the wound which they make
hy their bite; but I was convinced of the contrary when
I was informed of the manner in which these animals
were reared, the details of which I obtained from the
chiefs, but not without much difficulty, and after many
messages, conferences, and, above all, considerable presents.
He told me, that when they were desirous of taming
one of these reptiles, they caught it very young, and
gained its attachment by the smell, which takes place with
many other animals; but that to destroy the venom of
its bite, they-took care to confine it two or three months,
during which time it was fed either with flower of maize,
or the juice of very mild plants; and that substituting
such aliments to those which nature points out to these
animals in the forests, such as vegetables and disgusting
insects, it distilled no poison, and its bite became then
as harmless as that of the eel.
I was convinced of the truth of what he related by
my own personal observation; for by whatever means
these animals are thus rendered innoxious, it is certain
that they still retain their teeth, and though excited by
anger, their bite produced no bad effect.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 301
What a precious discovery were that of a regimen,
which should have the faculty of rendering innocent
whatever was most hurtful and destructive! and what
obligations would mankind owe to the Indians who
should transmit to us so precious a secret! But let us
not indulge the illusion; the sovereign specific which
should have the power of neutralising the most subtle
poison, would fail when applied as a remedy for the
passions of men.
STATE
OF THE
ANCIENT INDIAN NATIONS,
WITH
THE NUMBER OF THEIR WARRIORS.
'nations.
WARR.
RESIDENCE.
Delaware . . . .
600
Between the Ohio and Lake
Erie.
Wayondotts . . .
Mohickons ....
> 3oo
Near the river Sandusky.
Coghnawagas ...
Portion of the Chawanons
5oo
Sioto and Muskingum.
Twightwees . . .
25o
On the Miami River, and near
fort Miami.
Portion of the Kickapoos
Piankas ......
On the Wabash, or adjacent
Musquitons ....
> 1000
branches.
Ouiatanos . . .
245o
5o4
SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
NATIONS.
WARR.
- - RESIDENCE.
Brought over . . .
245o
Kaskaskias ....
Near the Illinois, on the Ame-
Piorias .....
► 5oo
rican side.
Mitcliigamas . . . •
Wigondotts ....
25o
Detroit.
Portions of the Ottawas
4oo
The same.
Putawatimes . . .
i5o
The same.
Portion of the Chepawas
200
Near Lake Huron.
Portion of the Ottawas
Portion of the Kickapoos
4oo
At the entrance of Lake Su-
perior, and near St. Mary.
Portion of the Chepawas
Mynomanies • • •
Sacks ......
, 555
Stinking Bay, near Lake Mi-
chigan.
Port ion of theP utawa times
200
Near St. Joseph.
Portion of the Ottawas
i5o
Near St. Joseph,.
Portion of the Kickapoos
Miscotins
Outagomies ....
Outtamok ....
) 4ooo
On Lake Michigan, and be-
tween the Mississipi.
Mascou .....
Musquakeys. . . .
)
qo55
OF NORTH AMERICA. 3o5
NATIONS. WARR. RESIDENCE.
Brought forward
Portion of the Ottawas
Portion of the Chipawas
Portion of the Chawanons*
The Loups .
The Cadeauxf
The Arkansas $
9o55
200
1000
1100
i5oo
200
200
Near Lake Michigan, and withm
twenty-one miles from Lake
Michilimackinac.
The Islands on Lake Superior. •<
On the West of the Mississipi,
and thirty leagues from Cape
Girardot.
The same.
i3255
West of the Mississipi, on the'
river of the Arkansas.
No distinction must be made between the Chawanons and the
Loups, who are always allied with each other; both are in general devoted
to France.
f A very brave nation, and friendly to the French.
§ The Arkansas are the best warriors that inhabit the banks of the
VOL. I.
3o6 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
NATIONS. WARR. RESIDENCE
Brought over.
The Chikasaws* . .
The Chactawsf . .
The Creeksfl ....
The Cherokees . . .
i3a55
IOn the river Yazoo.
Between the river Yazoo and
the Mobile.
9000
5o255
Florida, on the river Mobile.
There is a great number of nations dwelling on the
West of the Mississipi, between the thirtieth and thirty-
fifth degrees of northern latitude ; but they are cowardly
and degenerated.
* The Chiekasaws also are very brave, but perfidious ; no dependence
is to be placed in iheir trealies.
f The ChactaWs are in general bad warriors, devoted equally to
the Spaniards and Americans.
§ The Creeis and Cherokees are entirely devoted to Spain, and are very
good warriors.
STATE
THE INDIAN NATIONS
WHO DWELL TO THE WEST AND NORTH-WEST OF THE
MISSISSIPI, LATELY DISCOVERED,
RIVERS NEAR WHICH THEY RESIDE,
NATIONS.
NUMB.
WITH THEIR LATITUDES.
Castor ....
600
The sources of the Sahaskawan, and at
the foot of the Yellow Mountains,
in the 54th degree of latitude.
Black-Foot . . .
i5oo
The same ; near lat. 5a.
Sacue ......
4oo
Sources of the Daim, and at the foot
of the Yellow Mountains; lat. 5o.
Wandering part of
the Asseniboine
5oo
Southern branch of the Sahaskawan ;
lat. 47, long. 11 5.
Great Nation . . .
Between the Daim River and the lake
Placote.
Great-Foot
1000
North-western branch of the Missouri
at the foot of the Yellow Mountains,
lat. 5o.
4ooo
5o8
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
RIVERS NEAR WHICH THEY RESIDE,
NATIONS.
NUMB.
WITH THEIR LATITUDES.
Brought over .
4ooo
Asseniboine, settled
1000
Upper part of the Asseniboine River ;
lat. 52, long. 11 5.
The Christinaux .
5oo
South of the Asseniboine, near the Red
River; lat. 47, long. 110.
Sauteux Nation . .
lOOO
The whole course of the Red River ;
between the 46th and 47th degrees
of north latitude, and the 100th and
Grand division of
106th of west longitude.
the Sioux ....
lOOO
The whole of the river St. Peter, and
upon the river St. Lewis.
Lesser division of
the Sioux.
On the Crow or Yellow Rock River.
Crow-Quill
Crow River, and the bottom of the
Yellow Mountains.
Red-Bead
The same.
Orignal
At the fork of the Missouri.
Bigbellied
5oo
Fifty leagues above Titon River ;
lat. 53, long. 11 5.
Mandane
lOOO
On the banks of the Missouri, ten
leagues above the Bigbellied nation.
9000
Or NORTH AMERICA.
5o9
Brought forward
Pitapahata ....
Tokiwako
Kayoha ....
Chaguiennes .
Tokaninarnbich ,
Arricaras . . . ,
Richaare
Blue-Bead nation
Poncas
Mahas . .
Panimaha
Panis , . .
NUMB
9000
5oo
600
800
.2000
RIVERS NEAR WHICH THEY RESIDE,
WITH THEIR LATITUDES.
Northern bank of the Cherry-branch
River.
Southern bank of the Cherry-branch
River.
The same.
Confluence of tbe above river.
South-western branch of the Chagui-
enne River.
Western bank of the Missouri, and
the mouth of the Chaguienne River.
Sources of the Little Missouri.
Southern bank of the Little Missouri.
Western bank of the Missouri, and the
mouth of the river Qui-court.
Western bank of the Missouri, oppo-
site the Great Sioux river.
Plate River to the confluence of
Wolf River.
Southern bank of Plate River, and op-
posite the mouth of Wolf River.
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
RIVERS NEAR WHICH THEY RESIDE,
NATIONS.
NUMB.
WITH THEIR LATITUDES.
Brought over .
12000
Otoktata
800
Mouth of Plate River, and upon the
western bank of the Missouri.
Padou
Banks of the south-western branch of
of Plate River.
Cans
On the river Cans, where it divides,
60 leagues from its mouth.
Republican nation
South-western branch of the river
Cans, near its source.
Great Osages. . . .
9000
Near the sources of the Great Osages,
and of the Lead-mine River.
TheSerpentand Chi-
ouitanon nations
2000
Westward of the Yellow Mountains.
Maskego
Eastward of Lake Winipeg; lat. 63,
long. io4, W.
Bungi
Northward of York River ; lat. 55,
long. 97, W.
Chipiwian
800
Latitude 5j ; longitude 110.
246oo
END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
SURVEY.
CHAPTER XIX.
Continuation of the description of the Mississipi, from the Ohio to
the IFhite River.— Embarrassing situation. — Justification of
the vice-governor of Upper Louisiana.— Judge St. Clair.—
Rencontre with two suspected Indians.— Superstition of forest
men. — Important advice on the expedition of Canada. Iron
mine.— Application of the observations of 31. de St. Pierre.
Dew. — New Madrid.— Its bad situation.— Fort. — Further
observations respecting the expedition of Canada.— Population.
—Margot Cliffs.— Bad position.— Fort.— Advantage of being
master of the stream.— The place best fitted for the erection of
the] fort.— Attack on Adjutant Warin.— Reflections on this
subject.
On ray return to St. Lewis from the Illinois, I learned by
letters from New Orleans, that M. de Jaudenes, Minister
of His Catholic Majesty to the United States, notwith-
standing the passports and letters of recommendation
vol. ir. a
2 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
which he had delivered to me, had written to the Baron
de Carondelet, governor-general of Louisiana, to engage
him to arrest me ; in consequence of which, the latter
had publicly mentioned, that he had given orders to appre-
hend me. Letters, also, from another quarter, had reached
me from Philadelphia a few days before, which informed
me that the Secretary of State Pickering had likewise sent
orders to the same effect, and that Indians had been
dispatched from Canada to assassinate me. These dif-
ferent reports threw me into a great embarrassment,
with respect to the resolution I had to take. I could not
without indiscretion ask permission from M. Zenon
Trudau, commander of the Illinois, to continue my
researches in Upper Louisiana ; I might have injured him
by such a request, and should thus have been deficient
in gratitude towards a man who had treated me with
singular politeness and attention. I had determined,
therefore, to return by the river of the Illinois, to cross
the lakes Michigan, Huron, St. Clair, and Erie, and
descend the Mohawk and the Northern River to New
York; but having calculated with my Canadians the time
necessary to make this tour, we found that the season
was already too far advanced, it being the month of
September, and that I should be forced to winter in the
lakes, either at Michilimackinac or at Detroit. By fol-
OF NORTH AMERICA. 5
lowing this route, I might not only fall into the hands of
the English, but Mr. Mackintosh, also, a trader, who had
just come from Detroit, informed me, that I should
certainly be arrested at the American posts, since my
expedition, having already made a considerable noise,
might be interpreted in different manners. Thus in both
cases I had to run the risk of losing not only the fruit of
my labors, but also my liberty. To return by the same
road I had taken, appeared to me weak and dishonorable,
and which would not preserve me from any of the
dangers with which I was menaced. After maturely
reflecting on every circumstance, I determined to follow
my first plan, and to proceed at all events on my journey,
as J had at first purposed; that is, to go down the river,
and examine the various streams that flow into it from
the West, as far as should be in my power, without tor-
menting myself about the dangers or persecutions which
attended me in the Spanish possessions, or heeding the
frigates or English privateers which were cruising in the
Bahama Straits, and which interrupt the traveller from
New Orleans to Philadelphia.
These motives, however powerful, did not alone fix
my decision : I was anxious to avoid the ridicule which
usually attends those who, in similar cases, after much
trouble and expence, return with excuses for their failure.
.4 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
I was not less apprehensive of those inexorable judges,
who, seated tranquilly by their fire-sides, pronounce dog-
matically on matters of which they are most profoundly
ignorant ; who injure by perfidious suggestions, prejudice
the public, and are themselves the harbingers of such in-
justice that they force their victim, however innocent,
to become, as it were, criminal.
I made, therefore, all my preparations; I exchanged
my great barge against a pirogue made of the trunk of a
single tree, much more light and easy to be steered, which
were qualities very essential for going up the different
rivers which I had to explore, or to descend the Mississipi,
which, on account of its rapidity and the numerous
obstacles which are every moment to be surmounted,
required a slight vehicle, the motions of which should be
quick and precise.
I dismissed, therefore, a part of my attendants, keeping
only four Canadians, a Spaniard, and my hunter; my boat
being able to contain only this number of men, together
with Mr. Warin and myself.
I made a second journal, which I took care to fill
with praises respecting the administration of the Baron
de Carondelet, with the intention of leaving it open to
the curiosity of all who chose to inspect it, whilst the
true -journal was carefully concealed. This little stratagem
OF NORTH AMERICA.
will readily be forgiven me, since it saved me the dis-
agreeableness of being sent to the Havannah, where I
should probably have been detained a long time.
Having at length collected as many materials as
possible respecting the countries adjoining the Missouri,
particularly the province of the Illinois; after having
communicated to Mr. Zenon Trudau,* my well founded
apprehensions that the armament which was preparing
in Canada was destined against Upper Louisiana, and
* I owe to justice and to the veneration I feel for the character of
Mr. Zenon Trudau, Vice Governor of Upper Louisiana, a solemn declara-
tion, which fully clears liim from the accusation brought against him by
the Baron of Carondelet, Governor General, for having suffered me to
penetrate into the territory of his Catholic Majesty.
Mr. Zenon Trudau was never informed of my expedition; it was during
the six weeks that I remained in the American part of the Illinois, that
I undertook my excursion upon the Missouri, and before I had had the
pleasure of being presented to Mm. The truth of this assertion will be.very
readily conceived, when it is known that there are neither forts nor posts,
nor any guard whatever, on the banks of the Missouri, and that the mouth
of this river is more than a mile and an half broad; if to these circumstances
it be added, that 1 had taken the precaution to pass St. Charles in the night,
it is not astonishing that the Vice-Governor should know nothing of the
matter. The Baron of Carondelet was., therefore, in the wrong when he
reproached liim so severely on this account, and threatened to dismiss him.
I know few men more attached to their government, or who serve it with
G SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
pointed out to him the means which I thought best fitted
for the defence of St. Lewis, I gave him, on taking leave,
my plan of an intrenched camp, and quitted the finest
country in the world, in which there are neither war-
riors, merchants, nor farmers ; which, notwithstanding the
riches it contains, presents nothing but uncultivated lands,
and half-famished inhabitants, with scarcely a sufficient
clothing to protect them from the inclemencies of the
weather.
In our passage to Kaskaskias, we learnt that all our
letters coming from Philadelphia had been intercepted
by the agents of the federal government, and that St. Clair,
judge at Kaskaskias, had spread the most idle and inju-
rious tales respecting the French nation, and particularly
respecting myself.* In consequence of these reports,
Adjutant Warin and myself repaired to his house, ac-
companied by the justice of peace; where, after expressing
to him my contempt for the baseness of his proceeding,
more fidelity and honor. With respect to the circumstances which pre-
vented my going beyond the river of the Great Osages, they were entirely of
a private nature, and concex-ned no one but myself.
* I had met with this man on the Ohio; but as he travelled with more
speed, he had preceded me. It was he who denounced me to Captain Pike,
commander at Fort Massac, where I was arrested, as I have already
related.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 7
I caused him to make in writing the declaration which
will be found at the end of this work, in the number of
the justificatory papers .* This Judge St. Clair was an
Englishman, paid by the British government, and one
of the chiefs of the conspiracy of Governor Blount, the
purpose of which was to put the province of Louisiana
into the power of England, as I had been informed, and
of which I shall have occasion shortly to speak.
It being late when we reached Apple River f (Riviere
aux Pommes), we stopped at this point with the intention
of passing the night; but scarcely had we landed, when
two Indians of the Chickasaw nation made their ap-
pearance. They were painted black, and had a white
feather stuck on their forehead, which signified that they
were on an expedition. I noticed this to Mr. Warin.
After having surveyed us attentively for some moments,
they advanced, and proposed to us a piece of buffalo in
exchange for brandy ; we refused, because we had no
more provisions than were necessary for our consumption,
and besides we were unwilling to furnish them with
* See Appendix, No. 2.
-J- It must be observed, that I have already given the description of the
Mississipi, from the Ohio to the mouth of the Missouri. This description,
therefore, recommences from the Ohio, and continues to the entrance of
the Mississipi into the Gulf of Mexico.
8 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
spirituous liquors ; but as they insisted, and threatened to
leave us their game for nothing, we took it that we
might not displease them, and gave them a little powder
and tobacco, which they accepted, without showing any
marks of content or dissatisfaction, and withdrew.*—
Having been accustomed in the course of our expedition
to such visits, we paid at first no great attention to this
incident ; but after a little reflection, not knowing what
might be the number and the intention of those who thus
followed us, we left the banks of the river, and went
to encamp on a small unsheltered island, separated from
the main land by a channel of about seven or eight hun-
dred yards broad. We passed the night there without
any molestation.
The next day we proceeded on our voyage as usual.
Two leagues from Apple River, we saw on the bank so
great a quantity of game, that we could not resist the
inclination of landing in order to hunt; which led to an
accident that may be mentioned on account of its singu-
larity.
At the beginning of the hunt we were somewhat dis-
persed; Mr. Warin was on my left, and the hunter on
* It will appear shortly that these two Indians followed us as far as the
river of the Arkansas, distant from this spot more than three hundred
leagues, where they attacked the unfortunate Warin.
OF NORTH AMERICA. „
the right: we had scarcely walked a quarter of an hour,
when we heard the hunter utter the most piercing cries'
We ran to inquire the cause, and found him seated at
the foot of a tree, two steps from an enormous rattlesnake
which he had just killed. « Oh!" cried he, on seeing
us, " I am lost; I am a dead man: this cursed animal
has just bit me in the heel !» The poor man had actually
lost his senses; his eyes were fixed, and every muscle in
his face expressed terror. While we were using our
efforts to tranquillise him, and were bathing the wound
with eau de luce, of which I had a phial, darting his
haggard looks on me, he exclaimed: » General, have
you got your almanack?"* On my answering in the
affirmative, he added : « Oh! for God's sake, lend it me"'
As soon as he had it in his hands, he turned it over
hastily, to find the sign of the month in which we were
Scarcely had he seen it, than imagining it was favorable
to him, he exclaimed, with an enthusiasm which it is
difficult to describe: « I am clear enough !" His emotion,
indeed, began gradually to subside; and when he reached
the boat, one of his comrades sucked the wound,f to
* I had purchased a small almanack at Philadelphia, in winch were
the signs of the zodiac, and which he often amused himself in reading.
t This operation is performed by putting water or miikinto the mouth,
which is spit out at each aspiration.
VOL. II.
IO SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
which we applied a poultice made of eau de luce. On
visiting it the next day, we observed a swelling and a
violet tint j but the patient felt no pain. This accident
prevented him neither from walking or working ; and
at the end of eight days there remained scarcely any
marks of the wound.
In placing this event before the eyes of my reader,
I trust that he will not suppose me so credulous, or so
destitute of common sense, as to attribute the cure of
this man to the sign of the zodiac. The cure was cer-
tainly produced by the suction, and the application of
alkali to the wound; but I am firmly persuaded, that
amidst the remedies which were administered to effect
the physical cure of the patient, the sign of the zodiac
had a most powerful effect on his moral feelings. We
may appeal on this important question to the faculty
themselves, and ask if they do not also think, that while
a man is struck with terror, and his whole frame
in a state of contraction, if such a situation will not
neutralise the most efficacious remedies? For my part,
I repeat, that if by chance this sign of the zodiac had
appeared sinister to the hunter, I have no doubt that the
effect produced on his imagination, already impressed
with this idea, would have been such that he must
infallibly have perished. Yes, terror is a real disease
OF NORTH AMERICA. 11
which we owe only to the vices of education. Why are
not the Indians affected with this sentiment as much as
ourselves? because they are trained up to despise death,
and we to fear it. A great part of our early education
consists of errors, invented by falsehood and exaggeration,
and propagated by ignorance. Who in his infancy has not
heard or read in fabulous descriptions, that the bite of a
rattlesnake is without remedy,* and that canine madness
is incapable of cure ? These tales are circulated, and when
once engraven on the imagination of youth, are not
easily effaced. Hence that despair which takes possession
of the mind when we meet with any of those accidents,
which have been described to us under such terrible
colors j despair which destroys us more speedily than the
most subtle poison. If we can find a cure for terror,
the remedy for many other diseases is not far distant.
In passing before Cape Girardot I saw Mr. Lorimier ;f
he told me, that having been informed I should re-descend
the river, he had resolved to meet me, having very
* Nature has been so provident in creating this reptile, that wherever
a serpent is found, a remedy against its bite is sure to be discovered withm
a few yards of its haunts. I have often made this observation, and there
is not a forester who is not well versed in finding these" specifics.
f M. Lorimier is the chief of the Chawanons and Loups, of whom we
have spoken under the article of Cape Girardol.
B 2
12 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
important information to communicate, which he had just
received from Upper Canada, by Indian chiefs who were
allies of the two nations which he commanded. Ac-
cording to their report, the English were preparing an
expedition at Montreal, composed of two thousand regular
troops, fifteen hundred militia, and several Indian tribes,
and that all these forces were directed against Upper
Louisiana; he added also that reports, although vague,
had been spread, that English agents, dispersed in Tenessee
and Kentucky, were organising another expedition, which
was destined at the same time to attack Lower Louisiana,
and that the governor of one of these states,* gained over
by England, was in the conspiracy.
As the first part of this report agreed perfectly with
the information I had received during my residence in
the Illinois, from two Canadians who had come from
Quebec, I had no doubt that a plan was formed for the
invasion of the possessions of his Catholic Majesty. I
considered, therefore, from the alliance which existed
between France and Spain, that it was my duty, as a
Frenchman, to make use of all the means in my power
to counteract this project. I engaged Mr. Lorimier to
* It will be seen, that this news was [perfectly conformable to the
truth.
OP NORTH AMERICA. j3
repair immediately to St. Lewis, and communicate to the
Vice-Governor the new details which he had just given
me, and assured him at the same time, that I would use
the utmost expedition in giving information to the Go-
vernor-General of Louisiana, residing at New Orleans,
as well as a tall the posts which I should have occasion to
visit in going down the river. I regretted extremely that
amidst the deserts where I was now situated, without any
direct communication with Philadelphia, it was impos-
sible for me to give any immediate information to the
French and Spanish ministers resident in that city. This
evil was without remedy: I therefore left Mr. Lorimier,
satisfied with the new proofs of zeal which he had tes-
tified towards me, and without further loss of time
resumed the course of my journey.
Having reached the mouths of the Ohio, I again
examined, with the most scrupulous attention, both its
banks, the isle in front of the river, and the opposite
banks of the Mississipi. This second examination con-
firmed me in the opinion I had already formed on this
subject; that it will be impossible for a long time, unless
by immense labor and incalculable expence, to raise forts
or military works on any one of these points, where if
we may judge from the marks on the trees, the water*
l4 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
sometimes rise more than twenty-five feet above the
banks of the Ohio.
Eighteen miles from the mouth of the Ohio, on the
left, is a cliff, called the Iron Mine. This cliff is two
hundred feet perpendicular, but does not extend more
than a thousand yards along the river ; from the exami-
nation we made of its direction, which is north-east, it
can only be a ramification of the chain of heights of
which we have spoken in our description of the country
of the Illinois, and which in this latitude begins to take
a direction towards the south-east. Strata of clay of
different shades may be distinctly seen in the cliffs, some
of the color of ochre, others of a red or rose color, and
some of a yellow saffron. These strata are intermixed
with a very fine sand, of a black or rusty color, which is
in general the indication of iron mines. But whether
our researches were ill directed, or that we wanted suf-
ficient knowledge of the subject, we were unable to
discover the mineral, although it is the general opinion
that this spot contains a very rich mine of this metal.*
* Naturalists who travel in this country ought to stop at this iron
mine. If the river is low, they will find at the foot of the cliff a sand-
bank, covered with petrifactions. l"W~e may without exaggeration add, that
every thing there is petrified ; even the leaves of the trees.
OP NORTH AMERICA. j5
About a thousand yards below this spot, the lands on
the left are low and swampy, like those on the right,
which continue the same from Cape Girardot. The chain
of heights falls off towards the south-west, at the distance
of five or six miles from the river.
After passing the Ohio, the current of the Mississipi
is perceptibly less rapid, and its waters acquire a sort of
limpid clearness.
The ingenious observation of Mr. Bernardin St. Pierre,
in his Studies of Nature, on the current of rivers, is
perfectly applicable here, and explains why the river of
the Mississipi is so impetuous between the Missouri and
the Ohio.
The Missouri, as we see in the chart, comes from the
north-west, and consequently forms with the river„,which
runs north and south, an acute angle; hence the Missouri
communicates all its violence to the Mississipi, because it
is neither interrupted nor impeded by any obstacle. The
Ohio, on the contrary, coming from the east, and falling
into the river almost at right angles, the volume of its
waters and its current, which are powerful enough to
strike against the opposite bank of the Mississipi, inter-
rupt, and suspend its course. This is so evident, that
above the mouth of the Missouri the current of the river
l6 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
is gentle, because it is naturally slow, and below the
Ohio it resumes its ordinary course.
A similar remark has been made in the Missouri, the
current of which is very moderate above the river Plate j
but this coming from the south-west, in an oblique
direction, and bringing with it muddy waters and an
impetuous current, imparts the same character to the
Missouri. It is, therefore, to the river Plate, and not to
the Missouri, that this effect should be imputed.*
It is observed, on the Mississipi, that the dews, which
are very abundant when the winds come from the south
and south-west, are scarcely perceptible when the winds
blow from the north and north-west. The fogs also,
which are very thick on the river from the southern
winds, disappear as soon as the wind veers to the north.
From the Iron Mine to New Madridf is reckoned forty
miles. The navigation from the mouth of the Ohio to
this point is generally good and free from embarrass-
ments.
New Madrid is situated in thirty-six degrees thirty
minutes northern latitude, on the right side, at sixty
* See the particular description of this river.
f It is to he remarked that the two first persons we perceived when
we landed at New Madrid, were the two Indians whom we had found at
Apple River.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 17
miles distance from the mouth of the Ohio, instead of
forty^five, as is asserted by Mr. Hutchins in his description
of the Mississipi ; it is built in the hollow of a great bend,
which the river makes in this place, and opposite a long
salient point, intercepting half its bed, and which, when
the waters are low, narrows the channel considerably,
and forces vessels to steer very near the right side. This
bank, though liable to inundations, is much more elevated
than the bank opposite, which it commands on every
side.
The river, which by its direction strikes with force
upon this perpendicular bank, carries away, at different
periods of the year, a considerable quantity of the ground
on which the town and fort are built ; this ground
being composed of earth, washed down by the waters,
is easily dissolved, and extends twelve miles inland,
without changing either its nature or its level. Nothing
can hinder this destructive effect, which will continue
until the river in its progress reaches a layer of primitive
earth ; or rather, the glacis of the chain of heights which
runs in a parallel direction with it, but at twelve or fifteen
miles from its actual bed. Every annual revolution car-
ries off from one to two hundred yards of this bank ; so
that the fort, built five years since at six hundred yards
from the side of the river, has already lost all its covered
l8 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
way; and at the time we passed, the commander had
given orders to empty the magazines and dislodge the
artillery, having no doubt but that in the course of the
winter the rest of the fort would be destroyed.
This fort is a very regular square with four bastions ;
in each are built four block-houses, connected by a range
of palisadoes twelve feet in height, behind which is a
good raised way; the whole is surrounded by a ditch
twelve feet deep and thirty broad, with a small covered
way, well staked and palisadoed. The artillery consists
of eight eight-pounders, placed in the front of each bas-
tion; the garrison consists of twenty soldiers of regular
troops. Within the fort is a small house for the governor,
an ill-constructed barrack for an hundred men, and a
powder magazine covered with planks; there is a well,
also, containing very bad water.
The whole country around New Madrid and the parts
adjacent, being, as we have just observed^ quite flat, and
without any slope for the draining of the waters which
are left in seasons of inundation, a great quantity of
morasses and pools are formed around it, which render
this spot extremely unhealthy ; putrid fevers and agues are
very prevalent from the month of June till November.
There are about one hundred families in this town,
the greater part of which are French, and can each furnish
OP NORTH AMERICA. Xg
a man capable of bearing arms; but the Spaniards
have so little dependence on them, on account of their
attachment to France, that when the attack on Upper
Louisiana by Genet was projected, Mr. de Bostel, com-
mander of this post, stopped up the holes of the cellars, to
hinder the militia from hiding themselves. We had this
account from Mr. de Bostel himself.*
Notwithstanding these inconveniences, a very fine
mill has been lately built, at the expence of government,
on a small creek, called St. Thomas. This mill is a
very ingenious piece of machinery, of the invention of
Mr. Venden, a Dutch engineer. The foundations are
laid on piles, and constructed with great art and solidity;
but the spot on which the building is erected, appeared
to us ill chosen, the local circumstances being such that
this place can never become a military post, or ever
draw a great population.f
* Several newspapers have given magnificent descriptions of New
Madrid : the people of this colony are naturally lavish in their praises of
the spot they inhabit; and they even pretend to be more industrious, and their
condition less miserable than that of the colonists in the Illinois. They are,
perhaps, in the right; a tarnished coat is better than rags.
t We have been since informed that the whole of these works are
carried off and destroyed by the waters, and that no vestige whatever remains.
C 2
20 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
After descending one hundred and seventy-one miles
below New Madrid, and through a country which is
entirely a desert, we found on the left side a cliff,
which, from its direction and nature) must he a branch
of the chain of heights that runs parallel with the
left side of the river, but which have ceased to be
visible. This cliff is preceded by a small river, or creek,
called by the French, Riviere a Margot; by the Ame-
ricans, Wolf River; and by the Spaniards, Las Casas.
A few yards from its mouth, it divides itself into two
branches: the principal branch, called Margot, comes
from the East; the other; called Bayou de Gayoso,
takes its direction from the South. Opposite the mouth
of the river is a great island, which is separated from
the left side by a channel from forty to fifty yards
wide, and which forms, with this bank, a kind of
haven or port. The land is low and swampy.
The nature of the country is an assemblage of various
small eminences running towards the North East,* dis-
tinct from one another, and each having a platform
separated by small vallies. On the inland side, the
slope of these small elevations is gentle and easy; on
the side of the water, they form perpendicular cliffs,
* See the map.
OP NORTH AMERICA. 21
which; as you descend the river, rise progressively from
thirty to sixty feet. On the first of these heights A,
m descending, and consequently on the lowest, is situated
the fort which the Spaniards have lately built, called
St. Ferdinand. This fort is commanded on the land
side, at the distance of one hundred and twenty yards,
by the platform B, as well as on the southern side
by that of C. The choice of the natural position of this
fort is faulty, and the plan of its construction no less
reprehensible, since it has too considerable an extension
for the surface on which it is placed \ and the front of
the two bastions on the land side occupy more than
half of the inclined part of the platform. From the
platform B, notwithstanding an inclosure of stakes which
are twelve feet in height, the whole of the interior of
of the two bastions is seen, and consequently the rest
of the fort.
The form of this fort is a square with four bastions,
surrounded, as we have observed, with stakes, without
ditch, palisadoes, or even banquettes, and containing
only eight eight-pounders.
The buildings, indeed, consist of a handsome house
for the commander, an ill-constructed barrack for the
troops, and a powder magazine covered with tiles. One
2 2 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN" RIVERS
hundred and fifty men and three galleys form the defence
of this place. Such is the fort which has cost to the
Court of Madrid so much money, and respecting which
so many statements, projects, and plans have been given,
and which originated in ignorance, or were, perhaps,
suggested by treachery.
We know that in a newly settled country, covered
with wood, the bad choice of a position may be excused,
because before the land is somewhat cleared, it is difficult
to find out the true heights of the country which we wish
to defend, especially when it is irregular and undulating:
but the mode of construction of this fort is inexcusable.
If this establishment at first had no other object in
view than to keep in awe the Chickasaws, a powerful
nation hostile to Spain ; it is only since the Americans
have poured in on this part of the continent, and have
shown themselves, like their ancestry, ambitious and
enterprising, that the Spanish Court has been anxious to
render this post capable of stopping them in their projects
of invasion.
We repeat onxe more, that it is not below the Ohio
that a position should have been chosen to defend its
outlets; but above this river, since the ground did not
permit of any works being erected opposite to its mouth.
OP NORTH AMERICA. 23
I have already observed, that to be masters of the Missis-
sipi, it is necessary to command the course of that river,
and for the following reason :
Every vessel or armed galley, ascending the river, is
obliged to employ the greater part of its crew in rowing.
These oars, fixed at distances of five or six feet, from
one end of the vessel to the other, embarrass the working
of the guns, which are placed in the intervals. In going
up, the vessels are always obliged to present their heads,
which is a very disadvantageous position: in some parts
of the river also, the current is so extremely rapid,
that it is impossible to stem it without keeping close to
the shore, where the enemy, posted on points higher
than the vessel and concealed behind trees and rocks,
might kill great numbers without resistance; since not
being seen by those in the boat, it would be impossible
for them to know where to point their artillery, and
even if the enemy were seen, the shot would be without
effect, since it would be firing upwards.
A vessel which descends would require, on the con-
trary, but two or four oars, and a pilot to steer. The
whole crew might, therefore, be employed in the service
of the artillery or musketry; the vessel might keep the
middle of the river, or approach either bank, or take
whatever passage or position should be most advantageous
24 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
for annoying the enemy; while the vessel in falling down
would present its broadside, and might attack or avoid a
combat. Such evident advantages require no comment.
The fort, since it was determined to build one on this
bank, notwithstanding its inutility, ought to have been
placed on the platform D, which commands the rest;
from this position, whatever should advance by the three
small passes formed by the islands situated above the
cliffs, and which opposite to these cliffs form only one,
would readily be discovered, and the fort could also
very easily defend the small road, and the mouth of the
river Margot ; and as the platform D is greater than those
of A, B, C, the fort might have had as large an extent as
should have been required. But we shall clearly show,
in our general system of the defence of Louisiana, that
every kind of fort on this bank, the object of which is
the protection of the colony, would be more injurious
than useful, and that forts are necessary only as stations
for travellers, or to protect commerce and navigation;
on this hypothesis block-houses are sufficient, because all
the keys of the different positions on the left side are
too far distant from the banks of the river; these, for
example, are more than twenty miles.*
* See the point A in the chart.
OP NORTH AMERICA. 25
Sixty miles below Margot Cliffs, on the right side, is
the river St. Francis. This river comes from the north-
north-west, and not from the north-west, as it is marked
in all the charts. It is navigable three hundred miles for
canoes. Half of ray boatmen having fallen sick in this
place of a fever and dysentery, I was obliged to steer the
boat myself; these circumstances prevented me from
going up this river, concerning which we have hitherto
had so few details.
Ninety miles below the river St. Francis, and on the
same side, is the mouth of the White River.
As this river appears on the charts to be confounded
with that of the Arcks or Arkansas, the mouth of which
is separated from the White River by only a slight
distance, and an union with which is formed by a
channel about six leagues from its mouth, Adjutant
General Warin and myself resolved to take a minute
survey of the outlets of these two rivers. We deter-
mined, therefore, that he should ascend, with the bark
and two men, the White River as far as the opening of
the channel, which he should cross, and wait for me at
the point where it communicates with the river of the
Arkansas; whilst I should continue with the canoe
to descend the Mississipi, as far as the mouth of that
river, and then re-ascend to the point where its waters
vol. ir.
26 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
have made a passage, and communicate with the White
River. The first who arrived was to wait the coming
of the other. I gave Mr. Warin provisions and stores
for eight days, and we separated at five in the morning.
On the second day, at half past four in the evening,
I reached the place of rendezvous, and finding no one,
encamped with my boatmen. The next morning, at
nine, I perceived the bark coming up the channel,
and when it approached, found Adjutant Warin lying
along the boat, and suffering so much that he could
scarcely speak or breathe. One of the hunters who at-
tended him informed me, that at five in the evening of
the day we separated, having reached the point where
the channel of the Arkansas throws itself into the White
River, they had resolved to pass the night on that spot;
that whilst his comrade was gone to hunt, and he himself
was gathering wood at a very small distance from the
camp, two Chickasaws (the same we had several times
met) approached Adjutant Warin, and gave him a
piece of bear's flesh ; that having accepted it, he offered
them in exchange powder and tobacco, which they
refused, and asked him for rum; after making some
difficulty, M. Warin gave them each a glass, when they
asked for another, which he positively refused. Seeing,
that they could not obtain it, one of them, with a club
OF NORTH AMERICA. 27
in his hand, leaped into the canoe to seize on a small barrel
of rum, when Adjutant Warin, in order to prevent his
carrying it off, took up his carabine ; the Chickasaw at
that instant struck at his head with his club, which he
avoided by throwing himself back, but unhappily received
the blow on his breast, which stretched him lifeless in
the canoe; that he, the hunter, hearing the noise, ran
to the river, where seeing what had passed, he levelled
his musket at the Indian in the canoe, and broke his
arm, upon which they both took flight.
Without endeavouring to seek for any extraordinary
cause of this deplorable event, I cannot help remarking,
that these two Indians were the same who had followed
us from the country of the Illinois, five hundred miles;
that at each of our principal stations, we always found
they had preceded us; that they were painted black,
■with each a white feather on their heads, a sure sign of
war or an expedition; that there was only one armed
with a carabine, and it is to be remarked, that it was
the unarmed Indian who attacked Adjutant Warin ; it
seemed as if they were fearful of raising alarm by the
report of a musket. On the appearance of the hunter,
and his firing, which wounded one of them, they fled ; nor
did he who had his carabine loaded, and who was not
wounded, fire either at the Adjutant or the hunter, who
d 2
28 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
was then disarmed. Were they apprehensive of my
arrival, or of that of other hunters, or fearful of being
discovered? Did they mistake Warin for me?* — I accuse
no one; I have no evidence of hostile intentions against
me, hut
* It is to be observed that we were both of the same size, and were
dressed in the same manner.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 29
CHAPTER XX.
Continuation of the river Mississipi, from the TFhite River to
Nogales. — TFhite River. — Channel of communication with that
of the Arkansas. — River of the Arkansas. — Its red and
brackish waters. — Fine country. — Sketch. — Animals and crys-
tallisation.— Singular country. — Great quantity of animals. —
Louisiana, with respect to its military relations. — The places
where the rivers of the Arkansas and the Osages take their
sources.— Supposition. — Negligence of the court of Spain. —
Unsatisfactory reasons alledged by its agents. — Means to be
taken to remove these difficulties. — Obstacles. — Bad fort. —
Abuse of authority. — Population. — Indian anecdote. — Nature
of the country between the Arkansas and the Yazoo. — River
Yazoo.
1 he White River is from an hundred and twenty to an
hundred and forty yards broad at its mouth; its direction
is north-west, and it is navigable six hundred miles for
boats of six thousand weight, but only in high waters,
5o SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
that is, eight months in the year. Being much hemmed
in, its bed narrows as the waters decrease, and discovers
a great number of small falls or rapids. Its current is
very strong when the waters are high, and more gentle
when they are low.
Eighteen miles from its mouth, and on the right side,
is the opening of a channel about forty yards in breadth,
and through which a part of the waters of the river of
the Arkansas empties itself. It is eight miles long, and
is navigable only in. high waters. During the months of
July, August, and September, it is almost dry, and we
were enabled to ascend only by an extraordinary swell
of the water. Although the current be gentle in this
channel, it is extremely difficult to go up, on account of
the great quantity of sand-banks and drift-wood with
which it is encumbered.
At the mouth of the White River is a small post of
three men, which is a detachment from that* of the
Arkansas. The object of this post is to stop the entrance
of this river, but it can be of no use with respect to
the navigation, because when the waters are low, it is
separated from the channel by a great sand-bank, which
extends more than two miles; a passage might, therefore,
be effected by keeping to the left side of the river,
OF NORTH AMERICA. 5j
without being seen by the post, which, it must also be
observed, has no means of resistance.
After passing the White River, and proceeding ten
miles, we reached the point where the river of the
Arkansas empties itself on the same side. This river is
three hundred yards wide at its mouth, comes from the
north-west, and runs parallel "to the White River. It is
navigable nine hundred miles for the largest barks, except
during the three dry months ; at that season the navi-
gation extends only one hundred and twenty miles.
Eighteen miles from its mouth, on the left, is the
entrance of the channel of communication, which its
waters have opened with the White River.
During the space of sixty miles from its mouth, both
sides of the river are low and swampy- but at this
distance, where are situated the fort and the village of
the Arkansas, the country begins to be more elevated.
Ninety miles higher are five rapids, which are pas-
sable only in small canoes, when the waters are low; but
when they are high, these rapids are entirely covered
and imperceptible.
When the waters are low, the current of this river
is almost as violent as that of the Mississipi, which is not
the case when they are high, since the waters, as they
32 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
extend flow more gently ; the White River in similar
circumstances is directly the reverse.
The river of the Arkansas rolls over a bed of sand,
and washes a red soil, which gives a tint to the waters j
and as it crosses, six hundred miles from its mouth, a
range of rocks composed of pure salt, the water preserves
a brackish taste, which renders it disagreeable and un*-
wholesome.
After passing the line where the swampy country
ends, the river of the Arkansas waters, perhaps, one of
the finest countries on the globe. The land is of a
chocolate color, with a vegetable mould from eight to
eighteen feet deep, and a gentle undulation, which, by
facilitating the draining of the waters, concurs to the
salubrity of the air.
We can only repeat what others have already said
or written respecting this charming country, which the
more carefully we examine, the greater beauties we
discover. On the horizon, mountains, the summits of
which are lost in the clouds, and from whose base,
stretched in lengthened perspective, lie plains of immense
extent and fertility; the Arkansas winding, and varying
every moment the form of these fine natural meadows j
hills, sprinkled sometimes with beautiful groups of wood,
OF NORTH AMERICA, 35
at other times with tufts of the laurel or magnolia;
rivulets falling in torrents, or cascades from the moun-
tains, and after numerous meanders throwing themselves
into the river, are but a slight sketch of this delightful
region, from which the traveller with difficulty with-
draws his reluctant steps.
Six hundred miles from the mouth of this river are
heights forming a chain, the continuation of that which
we have already described in the country of the Illinois ;
here this chain falls back towards the south-west, and
is filled only with minerals and crystallizations.
Between the sources of the river of the Arkansas and
those of the Great Osages, is a valley, the extent of
which may be estimated at one hundred and twenty
miles. In the centre is a lake, the banks of which are
perpendicular in its whole circumference, and composed
of a rock of white salt, more pungent than common
salt. From this lake flows a little river, traversing the
plain in its whole extent, the banks of which river are
nearly of the same nature as those of the lake.
The whole surface of this valley is covered with a
small fine and thinly scattered grass, across which is
perceived an almost impalpable dust; this is an efflo-
rescence of salt in a state of continued reproduction j
VOL. II. e
34 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
since if it be swept away, the surface on the morrow is
again covered.
In this plain are found also holes of different forms,
some perfectly round, others oval or, triangular, and often
very deep, and filled with a saline water. The inside of
the banks are lined with this salt, left by the evaporation
of the water, from its level to that of the soil.*
Numerous droves of wild bullocks, bears, roebucks,
panthers, and elks, cover this plain, and in such numbers
that it cannot be crossed without great danger ; for this
reason, the Indians never hunt but at a certain season of
the year, when they can assemble to the amount of a
thousand or twelve hundred warriors.f
* The Indians who inhabit these countries (the Great Osages) make
considerable use of this salt, of which they extract great lumps with pointed
slicks, thrust into the crevices, and which serve for pincers; the Indians
give a round form to these lumps, tie them to the end of lianas, and dip
them in their food till it has attained a sufficient aegree of saltness. We
brought away with us several specimens of this salt.
f We are obliged here to leave an hiatus in our description. The
governor of Louisiana, M. de Carondelet, having kept five chapters of our
journal, one of which contains a detailed account of this interesting country.
See the proces-verbal on this subject, with the justificatory papers.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 35
When vve take a military survey of the structure of
this part of Louisiana, we must admit that the two
rivers, the Arkansas and the Great Osages, are the two
keys of Mexico; for though the mouths of these two
rivers are separated by a space of more than six hun-
dred miles, the one throwing itself into the Mississipi,
and the other into the Missouri, nevertheless, as that of
the Great Osages flows from the south-west, and that
of the Arkansas from the north-west, the sources of each
are so contiguous, that they are separated only by the
narrowest part of the plain or valley, of which we have
just given the description, and at the extremity of which
is Santa Fe.
From the point where the navigation ends to Santa Fe
is reckoned sixty miles; and from that where terminates
the navigation of the Great Osages, is reckoned one
hundred and fifteen or one hundred and twenty miles.
Thus, supposing two bodies of troops should assemble,
one in the state of Indiana, at the mouth of the river of
the Illinois, and opposite that of the Missouri, and the
other in the Tenessee, at the cliffs of Margot, a little
above the river of the Arkansas; the first ascending the
Missouri and the river of the Great Osages, the second
that of the Arkansas; they might both reach, in a few
days, the same given point (Santa Fe), having nearly the
36 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
same navigation, and the same space to traverse. The
difficulty which the right column might find in ascending
ninety miles the Missouri, and in travelling overland
sixty miles more than the column on the left, would he
counterbalanced by the facility with which it might
ascend the river of the Great Osages, which is much less
rapid than that of the Arkansas; having once reached
the head of these two rivers, the country presents no
obstacles whatever either from mountains or rivers: we
may, therefore, judge of what importance it is to Spain
that these two outlets should be shut.
It might be imagined, that a communication so easy
and direct with the capital of the country of metals, so
well known, and bordering on the United States, would
have fixed the attention of the Spanish government, and
that different surveys, respecting the nature of this country
watered by these two rivers, would have been made by
engineers, in order to obtain certain data, on which a
system of general defence might be established ; or at least
that some provisional measures of safety would have been
taken to hinder and stop, by strong works and a respec-
table garrison, the navigation of this river. But all this
has been neglected, nor has any person been employed by
the government to go up this river for the purpose of
taking military surveys; we are even ignorant of the nature
OF NORTH AMERICA. 5y
of the country that lies three hundred miles below the
mouth of the river of the Arkansas. The opposition
made by the natives against exploring this river is but
a mere pretext to justify so culpable a neglect.
The Great Osages, which are the only nations that
inhabit the sources of the river of the Arkansas, are
esteemed by those who have visited them, the most
gentle and hospitable of all the nations on the west of
the river Mississipi; with great veneration for the Whites
and particularly the French.
It is true, nevertheless, that possessing that part
of the continent which is most productive in animals,
they are extremely vigilant, and permit no stranger to
enter their territory without their consent, despoiling
and killing such as they meet, which keeps them in
perpetual war with all the surrounding nations. This
inconvenience is obviated by a direct address to them-
selves, and by taking them for guides. Mr. Choteau, an
inhabitant of St. Lewis, who has obtained the privilege
of trading with the Great Osages, among whom he has
resided for five years, proposed to me whilst at Fort
Carondelet, to go up to the sources of this river, accom-
panied by two chiefs § to traverse the space which lies
between these sources and those of the Arkansas, and follow-
ing the course of this latter river, descend into the Mis-
58 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
sissipi. This journey would have employed three months
at most, and there would have been less danger in
adopting this .mode, than in traversing many of the
United States.
But no doubt the disgrace of seeing such a survey
taken by a stranger, or rather jealousy, the companion
of ignorance, were obstacles far more difficult to sur-
mount than the pretended opposition of the Indians;
these considerations led us to return without having been
successful in rendering this service to Spain.
Two ill-constructed huts, situated on the left, at
the distance of seventy-five miles from the river of the
Arkansas, surrounded with great palisadoes, witnout ditch
or parapet, and containing four six-pounders, bear the
name of fort. The garrison entrusted with its defence,
consists of a captain and fifteen men, three of whom, as
we have already mentioned, form a detachment at the
mouth of the White River*
* At the time we passed, an engineer had been sent to the post of jhe
Arkansas, with orders to build another fort or block-house. He proposed
to occupy a piece of ground situated half a mile behind the fort, which was
standing, and consequently at the same distance from the river, under pre-
tence that the bank was continually washiug away. But in this arrangement,
the officer forgot that to defend the passage of a river, the banks of which
are steep, the more distant he removed, the le6s able would he be to direct
OP NORTH AMERICA. 3<)
It may easily be imagined how small a portion of
respect such means as these are fitted to excite, either in the
neighbouring powers or the Indian nations : the following
anecdote, of which we were witnesses, will give us a just
idea on this subject.
Two Chickasaws, the real tyrants of the river, met
an Indian of the nation of the Mascous, with whom they
were at war ; pursuing him to the palisado of the fort,
they killed and scalped him under the eyes of the com-
mander, who dared not defend the poor wretch, or grant
him an asylum.
The commander, on the observation we made him
that this act was a violation of the territory of His Catholic
his fire into the middle of its bed. Besides, block-houses or other works
of that kind, which were sufficient formerly to overawe the Indians, are
now become altogether useless ; because at present it is much more material
to construct defences against the United Stales than against Indian nations,
the greater part of whom are degenerated or destroyed. The only dangerous
enemies for Spain, the only to be feared, are the Americans, as well for
their population and their spirit of enterprise, as then local situation, which
gives them ample means of conveying artillery of every bore. Such fortifi-
cations become, therefore, a derision ; solid works in earth, well constructed
and judiciously placed, should be raised, till the population on the Spanish
aide puis it in a situation of building others still more durable.
4o SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
Majesty, which appeared to us extremely reprehensible.,
replied that he had express orders not to mingle in any
quarrel which the Indians might have with each other ;
that the Chickasaws were a very powerful nation; and
that if he had prevented the murder, perhaps in a fort-
night the post and all the Whites would have been de-
stroyed.
The more probable reason of this conduct (for it is not
likely that such an order should have been given) is, that
this commander, as well as others scattered through Upper
Louisiana, trading with the Indians to the detriment of the
inhabitants, are more earnest in gaining over the greatest
number of nations possible, in order to obtain a larger
quantity of furs, than anxious to make the territory of
their king respected ; because they well know, that, if
they resisted their caprices and insults, these Indians would
keep off from their counters, and would carry elsewhere
the produce of their hunting. In this manner sovereigns
are often degraded by their subjects.
A little behind this fort is a small village, which
may contain from forty to fifty Whites; these settlers,
having no means of defence against the Indians, who
are continually pillaging their cattle and robbing them
of the fruits of their industry, are in general poor and
miserable.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 4 1
A single farm, belonging to Mr. Wolf, a German,
evinced what might be expected from a country thus
fertile. He was employed in gathering in his corn
harvest, which yielded him two hundred fold. The quality
of the wheat was certainly equal to that of the best
departments of France ; which leaves no doubt, that
under a government favorable to agriculture, this cul-
tivation would be attended with the greatest success. But
with an administration so vicious as the present, Mr. Wolf
was compelled to display a constancy and firmness of
character which are rarely to be found.
Having received a deputation from the chiefs of the
great village of the Arkansas, I determined to pay them a
visit, and be myself the bearer of the customary presents.
In the course of our journey, which was nearly eleven
miles, we passed several Indian camps; among others,
one of the Mascou nation, then at war with the Chicka-
saws. I took advantage of this circumstance, to renew
my experiment of pulsation on one of the chiefs of this
nation, with a young Spaniard whom I had found at the
Cliffs, and to whom I had given a passage as far as New
Orleans: they were both of the same age and size: the
experiment, made at eight in the morning and repeated
three different times, gave on the average sixty-eight to
vol. ir, f
42 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
the Spaniard, and fifty-nine to the Mascou; the difference
was consequently nine.
We proceeded on our way, and came in an hour and
an half opposite the village of the Arkansas, situated on'
the other bank. My interpreter was very much astonished
to see no one to conduct us to the place of embarkation ;
and the more so, as he had had the precaution to give
notice to the chiefs, the preceding evening, of the day
and hour we were to arrive. I observed to him, that the
Indians were never servile in any action of their lives ;
and that the only thing which surprised me was, that
they had left nothing on the bank that could furnish
us with the means of passing the river, which was very
wide, especially in this place ; but that in looking we
should perhaps find a canoe. We then gave our horses
to the Spaniard to hold, and went in search along the
banks of the river. We had scarcely proceeded fifty steps,
before we discovered a small skiff tied to a great pole. I
recognised in this action the character of the Indians, and
easily interpreted their thoughts, which seemed to say:
" Here is a canoe, here are oars ; if you are not old
women,* make use of your arms." My companion agreed
* This expression on the part of the Indians indicates cowardice, weak-
ness, and in general every ihhig that wants strength and courage.
OP NORTH AMERICA. 43
to the justness of my observation ; we took, therefore,
each an oar, and crossed the river amidst the accla-
mations of the Indians, who were, waiting for us on the
opposite- bank. After the usual ceremonies, we were con-
ducted to a dance, the object of which was the celebration
of a marriage.* On our return, we were ferried over by
women.
From the river of the Arkansasf to that of Yazoo is one
hundred and fifty-eight miles. In this distance, excepting
two passages, one called the Island a la Tete de Mort and
the other the Island aux Chicots, which are encumbered
with drift-wood, heaped up sixty feet high, and narrowing
the channel, the whole of the navigation is good ; the
current of the Mississipi, from the river of the Arkansas,
becomes evidently more gentle.
From the Cliffs at Margot to the river of the Arkansas,
and from hence to that of Yazoo, both sides of the Mis-
sissipi are swampy, and covered with great reeds or
* There is a kind of soft and melancholy languor in the Indian tunes,
and particularly in those of the amatory kind, which excite by attractive and
irresistible emotion to a pleasure before unknown ; this feeling is heightened by
the silence winch reigns in these solitary abodes.
f It was in the river of the Arkansas that we saw the first alligators,
and it appears that they are never met with above this latitude.
F 2
44 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
cypress trees ; it is to be observed, that the latter are found
only below the Arkansas, and that no wood of this kind
grows above that river.
The mouth of the river Yazoo is situated thirty-two
degrees twenty-eight minutes north, and is about three
hundred yards wide. This river divides Upper from
Lower Louisiana.
At the mouth is a considerable island, which forms
two passages; and as the land is very low, it is difficult
to distinguish the entrances.
In high waters, the Mississipi drives back the Yazoo
fifteen miles, and overflows the country on both sides.
The course of this river is nearly north-east, which at
its confluence with the Mississipi forms a very acute angle.
An hundred and thirty miles above its mouth it divides
into two branches; the western branch is called Cold
Water River (Riviere a l'Eau Froide), and the other the
Eastern River or the river of Yazoo. From the point
of its division it traverses an undulated country, which
becomes very mountainous near its sources. It receives
a great number of rivulets, of which several are suffi-
ciently large for the purpose of every kind of manufacture;
in this number are the Lowbassha, the Jockengpitofa, and
the Salt Hatche.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 45
The land above Cold River is no longer swampy, and
the higher you advance the more fertile it is found.
There are even some points which have been cleared
by the Indians. The country, as far as the sources of
Cold River, is one of the most healthy in America : from
Cold River to the mouth of the Yazoo, on the contrary,
the inundations render the climate very unwholesome.
From the mouth of the Yazoo to Cold River, the
country is covered with bamboo canes of a considerable
height; from thence to its source is wood of different
kinds, but neither the cedar, the pine, nor the green oak.
In the mountains where it takes its rise, very rich
iron mines have been discovered. In general, the course
of the Yazoo and the district of the Natchez are con-
sidered as the finest part of North America.
The river Yazoo is navigable for barges or boats as
far as Cold River, or the Western Branch, that is, an
hundred and fifty miles above its mouth, except in seasons
when the waters are extremely low. There are a few
rapids, but when the waters are high, they can be
distinguished only by those who are well accustomed
to the river. From Cold River, the Yazoo is still navi-
gable seventy miles, to a point sixty miles below the
village of the Chickasaws, but only for barks carrying
four or five thousand weight. From this point its bed
46 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
narrows, and great obstacles are to be surmounted ;
sometimes there are not even six inches of water: its
course is gentle and slow, which renders it very easy of
ascent.
The Eastern Branch, or Yazoo River, directs its course
towards the river of Tennessee, from which it is separated
only by a chain of mountains, rather lofty, which are
ramifications of the Alleganies or Blue Mountains, and
which will render this carrying-place or communication
extremely difficult. From the sources of the Yazoo, or
rather from the end of its navigation to the nearest point
of the river Tennessee, is two hundred and sixty miles ;
but from the different turnings of the mountains and the
river, this distance may be reckoned at three hundred.
There are two roads employed by the hunters and traders
from the end of the navigation of the Yazoo, to reach
the river Tennessee : the first passes by the great village
of the Chickasaws, from thence to Hope Chapaw Creek ;
when at this latter place, you can only reach Cumberland
River on foot, on account of the steepness of the moun-
tains.
OF NORTH AMERICA.
RECAPITULATION OF DISTANCES.
Miles.
From the end of the navigation of the Yazoo
to the village of the Chickasaws . 80
From the village of the Chickasaws to Hope
Chapaw Creek .... 70
From Hope Chapaw Creek to Cumberland 100
25o
The second road is that used by the traders ; this road
also passes by the village of the Chickasaws, but it then
goes to Duck's Creek, and from thence to Knoxville. It is
passable for loaded horses, but with great difficulty.
Miles.
from the end of the navigation of the Yazoo
to the village of the Chickasaws . . 80
From the village of the Chickasaws to Duck's
Creek
5o
From Duck's Creek to Nashville . . 100
33o
The fur trade which is carried on by the Yazoo, is
of very little importance. At present, the Indians, sur-
48 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
rounded by the Americans on the east and north, and by
the Spaniards to the south and west, find scarcely any
game. This branch of commerce is now reduced to fifty
thousand skins of roebucks, and about seven or eight thou-
sand pounds weight of beaver.
OP NORTH AMERICA.
i9
CHAPTER XXI.
Continuation of the military description of the course of the
Mississipi, from Nogales to Baton Rouge.— Nogales.— Fort of
the Great Battery.— Fort Sugar Leaf— Fort of Mount Vigie.
—Fort Gayoso and St. Ignatius.— Reflections.— Turtles.—
Black River.— Bayou de Pierres.— Islands of Bayou de Pierres.
-Natchez.— Nature of the country.— Fort of the Natchez.—
Gayoso Battery.— State of the fort.— Observations.— Town
of Natchez. — Population. — Communication. — Climate. —
Conspiracy of Governor Blount.— White cliffs.— Roch of
Avion.— The Tonicas.—Pointe - Coupe1 e.— Population.— Fort.
—Cliffs of Pointe-Coupee.
THE post of Nogales, called by way of irony the Gibraltar
of Louisiana, is situated on the left of the river, near a
deep creek, and on the summit of different eminences
connected with each other, and running North East.
These heights form a kind of spur, branching from the
VOL. II. G
50 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
chain of hills, which is no longer visible at the cliffs
of Margot, and which falls away on the side of the
Floridas.*
These eminences rise gradually towards the country,
during the space of forty miles,f from the banks of the
river to the peak of this small chain.
The first of these eminences, that is of those that touch
the banks of the river, do not form cliffs like those of
the Iron Mine and at Margot ; they slope away, on
the contrary, very gradually, and it is at the extremity
of one of their glacis that the first work A, called fort
of the Great Battery, is placed. But as after building
this first fort it was perceived, in clearing, that at about
two hundred yards behind a small elevation commanded
the battery, a block-house, B, was erected, on which were
placed four howitzers pointed at the battery.
On the side of the river this battery is closed by
a wall of masonry, twelve feet high and four thick,
in which are crannies and embrasures : on the land
side, a ditch four feet in breadth and three deep, and
a palisado twelve feet high, surround the battery and
the block-house.
* See the plan.
•f- See the point B, on the chart of the Mobile.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 5!
Twelve pieces of cannon, four twelve - pounders,
and eight eight-pounders, mounted on rotten platforms,
compose the artillery. A house for the commander,
barracks for two hundred men, and a powder magazine,
are erected in this inclosure. On the left of this first
work, at the distance of six hundred yards, is another
small mound C, insulated and separated from the fort
of the great battery by a great defile D, and which
is about twelve feet deep and twenty broad.
To obviate this second inconvenience, another block-
house has been erected on this kind of Sugar Loaf, in
which are placed four four-pounders. This small work
is surrounded by a bad ditch and a palisado, and
is called fort Sugar Loaf. These two first works look
upon the river.
About a thousand yards behind these two works,
is a chain of small heights, which, connected with each
other, form together a large and extensive platform E,
that commands the whole of the space from the
river, as well, as the battery A, and fort Sugar Loaf B.
Three works have been erected on this platform.
The first, F, called fort of Mount Vigie, and on which
depends the defence of this post, is placed in the middle,
so as to form a recess with the battery A, and fort Sugar
Loaf B; but though it supports fort F, it cannot,
G 2
52 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
however, overlook the battery A from the elevation
of fort B; so that after having carried the battery and
the block-house, it would be very easy to form a lodg-
ment at the foot of the eminence B, without risking
a cannon shot from the other works.
The form of fort Mount Vigie is a perfect square,
without bastion, with a parapet of four feet of earth,
surrounded with a ditch and a palisado j on each of its
fronts are placed two eight-pounders.
In the middle of this fort is a block-house, which
serves for barracks; a well is also sunk.
To the right and left of fort Mount Vigie, at the
distance of nearly four hundred yards, on a spot a
little more elevated than the fort, two small block-houses
are built, which serve for lunettes; they have no
guns, and are surrounded neither by ditch nor palisadoes.
The block-house placed on the left, G, is called fort Gayoso,
and that on the right, H, fort St. Ignatius.
Such is exactly the present state of the defence of
Nogales. If behind these three last wprks any new
clearings should be made, it will infallibly result, from
the nature of the ground, that the works F, G, H, will
be commanded by some other points ; in this case, new
redoubts or block-houses will probably be built, till going
on from one blunder to another, the point B, the natural
OF NORTH AMERICA. 55
key of this position,* be attained ; this with a small share
of intelligence might have been perceived at first.
Eighty soldiers and a captain are intrusted with the
defence of these different forts, which would require at
least a thousand men.
In whatever manner this position be occupied, with
the view of protecting Louisiana against the Americans,
it will always be ineffectual, unless possession be gained
of the whole chain of heights : since, at present, only a
small part can be supported, and this part is weak, and
commanded by other .points, which are in the power of
the Americans, and which render them masters of the
summits, as well as the sources of the rivers. Thus the
whole of this puny fabric would be destroyed ; for an attack
may be made, not only by descending the Yazoo, but equally
well in falling down- the Mississipi • since the Americans
can easily land at Nogales, and that with so much the
more security, as the whole of these eminences are
accessible on every side: such posts, in short, are good
only when they can be supported, and defended by a
strong population, which is the great advantage the
inhabitants of the United States have over the Spaniards.
From what has been said, it follows that the left bank
of the river being well peopled, and the right a desert,
* See the Chart of the Mobile.
54 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
every military establishment formed on this bank, with
any other view than that of fixing the limits, is on the
part of Spain altogether useless, as long as its political
situation with the United States remains unchanged.
Our Canadians discovered in this place a number of
turtles' eggs, buried in the sand, along the banks of
the Mississipi, when the waters are low. A Spaniard of
our suite, who had lived a long time at Nogales, gave me
the following account of the manner in which these depots
are formed.
" This animal," said he, " looks out in summer for
sandy banks, on which it can lay its eggs; it is led by
instinct to choose the break of day: it then goes out of
the water with great precaution, raises itself on its hind
legs, looks around, and when sure of being seen by no
one, crawls to the place which it judges most suitable,
that is, to the spot which the waters never reach in this
season, whatever may be the accidental freshes. When
it comes to the point on which it has fixed, it raises
itself anew, looks round with attention to see if it be not
observed, and when it has this persuasion, it makes with
its fore feet a hole, where it deposits its eggs, covers them,
and rubs the place which conceals its treasure gently with
its belly; it then returns, making a great circuit, careful
always to take the side opposite to that by which it
OF NORTH AMERICA.
These turtles are scarce in the Mississipi; but are
found in greater abundance in the Arkansas, and generally
in the western rivers that fall into the Mississipi, from
this latitude to the sea; these turtles are very large, but
less than those which are found in the gulf of Mexico.
The Canadians find out these depots from the polish
left by the rubbing of the turtle on the sand, which is
easily distinguished from the sand in its natural state, in
which are irregularities, and slight undulations produced
by the agitation of the waters.
From Nogales to Big Black River is thirty-nine miles.
This river is situated on the left, and runs nearly parallel
and in the same direction as that of the Yazoo.
This river is not more than sixty yards wide at its
mouth ; but in ascending it some miles, it is an hundred
yards broad, and is navigable sixty or eighty miles for
boats carrying from four to five thousand weight.
Its sources, for it has many, form different branches ;
some are very near those of the Mobile; those in the
south-east take their rise in the height B,* and those in
the north-east in a little rivulet E, or a chain of mountains,
which runs parallel with it, and which separates its
waters from those of the Yazoo.
* See the map of the Mobile.
56 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
The course of this river is often interrupted by rapids
and small cascades. Thirty miles from its mouth, a great
bank of rock bars almost the whole of its bed, and leaves
only a passage of twenty feet wide and four deep.
In freshes these impediments are not perceived ; but
when the waters are only at a middling height, the greater
part re-appears, and renders the navigation extremely
difficult.
This river runs through a country which is irregular
and very hilly, especially on the right side and towards
its sources. The left side is even, and with fewer heights
and rocks.
Ten miles below Big Black River, and on the same
side, is Bayou de Pierres, or Stony River ; this is only a
large rivulet, which does not flow more than twenty or
twenty-five miles inland. The bed being full of great
rocks, it is navigable only for very small canoes. The
country on the right, through which it runs, is low and
very fertile; that on the left is more lofty, broken by
heights and small vallies.
At the mouth of Stony River is a wretched hut; but
there are several American settlements a mile above.
Although at the mouth of this river the Mississipi forms
no cliffs, it is, however, sufficiently elevated to prevent the
country from being inundated in high waters.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 57
Fifteen miles from Stony River, in the middle of the
Mississipi, are two islands, called Les Isles du Bayou de
Pierres, and by the Americans Stony Creek Islands.
These islands, which are in front of the creek, fill up
a great part of the bed of the river, and form three
remarkable passages, of which there is only one navigable
in the same year, the two others being choked up with
drift-wood. This year it was the left which was open
for the navigation j next spring that will perhaps be
obstructed in its turn, and one of the other passages
be alone navigable. Nothing certain, therefore, can be
indicated to travellers, with respect to such difficulties.*
Twenty-eight miles below these islands we reached
the Natchez. The district of the Natchez begins at the
river Yazoo, and ends at the Tonicas; it is one of the
most ancient, populous, and important settlements of
Lower Louisiana.
The town and fort are situated at an hundred miles
from Nogales, on the left side of the river, and on a fine
elevated plain, which we shall call the Fourth Spur from
the Ohio, that branches off from the chain of principal
heights, which we have so often mentioned. Its direction
* See the general observations on the navigation of the Mississipi at the
end of the work.
VOL. II. tT
58 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
is north-east, like those of the three preceding, which are
the Iron Bank, the cliffs of Margot, and Nogales; but
it differs from that of Nogales, as it is less elevated,
sinks perceptibly towards the country, and at ten or
twelve miles distance is no longer visible.
This space forms also ver3»considerable cliffs, which
extend nearly four miles, and are from an hundred and
eighty to two hundred feet high; which places this settle-
ment out of the reach of inundations, renders a landing
very difficult, or at least prevents it from being effected
near the chief place of residence.
The principal eminence A* is eight hundred yards
from the bank of the Mississipi; its form is round, its
slope gentle on the land side, but somewhat steep towards
the river.
On the right, looking from the side of the river, is a
large and deep defile B, which begins at more than a
mile inland, and divides into two branches C, one of
which, that on the left, turns and circumscribes a part
of the eminence A. Its breadth near the river is not less
than two hundred yards, and its depth one hundred;
its sides are almost perpendicular, and embarrassed with
trees, thorns, and thickset hedges; but towards its upper
? See the plan.
OF NORTH AMERICA.
%
extremity it grows shallow. Behind this defile, the
country is irregular and intersected by a number of small
defiles, which empty their waters into the first.
The principal eminence A, on which the fort is
situated, neither commands nor is commanded by any
surrounding height. It is also out of sight of the great
defile -j but this defect was remedied by raising the fort
twelve feet with earth inclosed in a case made of planks,
and strengthened with great beams. As this factitious
parapet was preceded by neither ditch nor palisado, the
present governor, Mr. de Gayoso, has constructed an
inclosure of planks at forty yards distance, and has lately
began, in front of this railing, a small covered way, of
which nothing as yet appears but the tracing of the ditch.
Behind the fort, at a thousand yards distance, towards
the head of the great defile, a small battery D has been
erected, the form of which is a long square, open at the
neck. The object of this battery is to prevent the ap-
proaching a small mound situated opposite, which if it
does not command the eminence on which the fort is
placed, is at least on the same level. This battery looks
also into the deepest part of the great defile; it has neither
ditch nor palisadoes, and is intended for four-pounders.
This fort is called Gayoso Battery.
H 2
6o SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
The form of the fort is an irregular hexagon, contain-
ing eight eighteen-pounders and eight twelve-pounders,
barracks for two hundred men, a well which is not less
than eighty feet deep, and a powder magazine. The
whole is in a most wretched state; the buildings are
falling into ruins, the platforms rotten, as well as the
gun carriages; the cases which support the parapet are
likewise so decayed, that were the fort to make use of
its eighteen pounders, *a part would infallibly crumble
into ruins. Fifty soldiers, commanded by a captain,
form the ordinary garrison of the fort.
Of the four positions on the river, and which we have
lately described, this is, without doubt, one of the most
perfect, for the following reasons:
First, That by means of the great defile an intrenched
camp might be formed, in occupying all the small heights
or undulations which surround the principal eminence,
and inclosing, by this separation, all the small defiles,
which are so favorable to the approach of the enemy:
Secondly, That this position being situated at only
an hundred leagues from New Orleans, it may be sup-
ported and aided from that place, at least for some time:
Thirdly, That the Americans, not being favored in
this geographical point by any considerable river, which
OF NORTH AMERICA. 01
leads directly to this spot, can convey no artillery without
making a great circuit:
Fourthly, This eminence not being externally connected
with the principal chain of mountains, the Americans
have not the same advantage of locality as the preceding
positions offer, by seizing on the commanding points;
they would, therefore, be compelled, in order to place
themselves on a level with the fort, to force several outer
works, which in this position would retard their ope-
rations and multiply their dangers.
But all these feeble advantages, which are partial and
purely local, cannot remedy the defect which exists in
the general structure of the country; this leads us to
repeat, that all the positions on the left side of the river,
in whatever point of view they be considered, or in what-
ever mode they may be occupied, without the alliance of
the W^estern States, are far from covering Louisiana :
they are, on the contrary, highly injurious to this colony ;
and the money and men which might be employed for
this purpose, would be ineffectual*
At a quarter of a mile, on the left, from the fort, and
on the sloping part of a small height in front of the river,
* It is almost useless to observe, that this survey was made in 1796,
when Louisiana was threatened by the United States.
6-2 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
is the town of Natchez, which contains about an hundred
houses, built of wood, and painted of different colors.
The town is surrounded by a great number of' fine farms
and orchards, displaying in every part a high state of
industry and prosperity. The population of the district
of the Natchez is reckoned at about ten thousand souls,
of every sex and age.
This population furnishes two thousand militia, formed
into companies, part of which, in the pay of Spain, is in
actual service. Independently of this militia, there are
also two hundred dragoons, volunteers, well mounted,
and who could easily be increased to five hundred.
In this population may be distinguished three classes
of emigrants; the first is composed of those who first
established themselves when this colony belonged to Great
Britain; the second, of those commonly called Tories or
Loyalists, who, at the period of the American revolution,
took arms for the king of England, and who fled thither
at the peace of 1783; the third class is composed of those
who since the peace, discontented with the federal go-
vernment, are come hither to form settlements, having
purchased lands at a very low price.
These three classes are absolutely divided in political
opinions: the first is purely English; the second is Anglo-
American royalist ; the third is republican, but the weakest
OF NORTH AMERICA* 63
in number. They are, however, in general agreed on
all questions respecting the federal government, which
they equally detest, and against which their hatred is
carried to such a point, that if ever it should be their
lot to form part of the United States when the limits are
fixed, conformable to the treaty between this government
and Spain, they would transport themselves under the
dominion of the latter, whatever repugnance they might
feel to live under a government, which in their opinion
gives no national character.
This colony, as well as all the posts established on the
Mississipi, is subject to the great inconvenience of having
no roads open with the neighbouring states- they can
communicate, therefore, neither with Georgia nor Ten-
nessee, and still less with the Floridas. Every thing must
come and go from New Orleans by the river, which is
the sole outlet and only market.
If the being thus insulated, and thereby depriving the
enemy of all means of reaching them, has some ad-
vantages, militarily speaking, they are dearly purchased
by the stagnation which is thus produced in trade and
industry.
There is, nevertheless, a pathway to Pointe Coupee,
where the great road, which is to lead to New Orleans,
will begin ; but this pathway is practicable only for horse
64 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
and foot passengers, and it requires five or six days to
reach the place of destination. There is no habitation
on the road, and several rivers to pass; from these
inconveniences we may easily perceive how useless such
a communication must he to commerce.
The climate of the Natchez, though hot, is much less
so than has been asserted ; and the duration of these
heats, so much exaggerated, is very short. They begin
about the month of June, and at the time of our visit
(October 22), it was cold enough to render the warmth
of a fire agreeable.
The winter is in general very mild : snow is sometimes
seen, but it never remains long enough on the ground to
hinder the cattle from grazing.
During my abode at the Natchez, I imparted to
Mr. de Gayoso, governor of this province, the account
I had received relative to the hostile preparations which
were making in Canada. He appeared to me very much
surprised at this communication, of which he acknow-
ledged that he had not received the slightest information;
and he was much more astonished when on the following
day I procured him the most positive and circumstantial
details, which I had gained by accident, and to which,
I will venture to say, his Catholic Majesty and France
owe the preservation of this colony.
OP NORTH AMERICA. 65
The day fixed for ray departure, one M an
inhabitant of Tennessee, with whom I had become
acquainted in the course of this expedition,* gave me,
in writing, information of which the following is the
substance.
First, That a thousand inhabitants of this province,
destined to attack the*posts of Baton Rouge, of Nogales,
and Margot Cliffs, belonging to his Catholic Majesty, had
been enrolled by Chisholm, an English agent in Tennessee.
Secondly, That Chisholm had made a general survey
of Louisiana and the two Floridas, and determined the
Creek and Cherokee nations to turn their arms against the
Spanish possessions.
Thirdly, That Chisholm had obtained a list of fifteen
hundred English Loyalists of the Natchez, of which
list he M was in possession, who were engaged to
take arms in favor of the English as soon as they should
be in readiness to attack Lower Louisiana, and march,
after this conquest, upon Santa Fe, in ascending the river
of the Onachitas.
Fourthly, That a body was forming on the lakes, in
Upper Canada, composed of fifteen hundred English,
troops of the line; seven hundred Canadians, hired mi-
* I had met with hiin in Kentucky.
VOL. II. i
66 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
litia; and two thousand Indians of the lakes,, who were
to be commanded by the Indian chief Brent.
Fifthly, That this body was to descend by the river of
the Illinois, attack St. Lewis and New Madrid; to bear
down on Santa Fe, following the course of the rivers
St. Francis and the Arkansas.
Sixthly, That Chisholm had procured six field pieces,
which he had embarked on the river Tennessee, and
that these were the pieces destined for the expedition of
M. Genet.
Seventhly, That the rendezvous for the Americans
was fixed at Knoxville, in the Tennessee, for the first
of May.
Eighthly, That Chisholm, who had concerted the
whole of these measures, after having made his report
to the minister Liston, at Philadelphia, had set out the
twenty-eighth of March for London, in the brig Fanny,
in order to inform the government of this project, and
demand vessels and money for the execution.
Ninthly, That, in short, as a proof of what he ad-
vanced, M had given us the following original
letter, written by Chisholm, in which he recommended
to him to repair, at the time agreed on, to Knoxville,
to act in conformity to the plan.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 67
" Messrs. M and Cr. —
" You will take notice that it will be
" necessary for you to be in the state of Tennessee on
" the first days of May next, to put our project into
*' execution j you may depend on rny earnest attention,
" and that every thing agreed on between us shall be
" faithfully fulfilled, conformably to the existing plan.
" I am, Gentlemen,
" Your very humble servant,
" John Chisholm."
M added to these details, that the governor of
Tennessee was absolutely gained over by England, and
yielded every support in his power to this project. He
gave me besides a list of several persons of distinction,
who held the first places, and who were in the interest
of the Anglo-federal party. I shall not mention their
names, because the greater number are out of place, and
their party being overthrown, they have no longer the
means of persecution ; * besides, although appearances
* There are certain individuals, who, to give themselves an air of
importance, after having lived, during the time they were in the United
I 2
68 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
were against them, it is possible that they may be in-
nocent.
However alarming this information, it seemed certain
that the expedition could not take place till the spring,
which gave Spain more than time sufficient to take such
precautions as were necessary to render it abortive.
We shall shortly see how I was welcomed by the
Governor-General of Louisiana, for the important service
I had just rendered his government.
The distance from Natchez to Baton Rouge is estimated
at one hundred and twenty miles.
In this space are several remarkable points, such as the
Cliffs, the Rock of Avion, the Heights of Tonicas, Pointe
Coupee, and the Cliffs of Pointe Coupee.
Fifteen miles from the Natchez, on the same bank,
are small cliffs, of a color white as chalk, and perpen-
dicular. They appear to form a branch of those of the
Natchez, though they are altogether separated by low
and swampy grounds. They do not extend more than
Stales, with the enemies of France, flattering their opinions, and conforming
lo their tastes in the most servile manner, talk of the persecutions which
they underwent, while they were scarcely even the ohjects of the slightest
animadversion. The French who were really persecuted, and who sacri-
ficed themselves for their country, are those who have said nothing of the
ill treatment they received.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 6()
six hundred yards along the river, and are lower than
those of the Natchez. Their oblong form, their gentle
slope, small extent, and geographical situation, render
them, militarily speaking, susceptible of no point of
defence.
The rock of Avion is situated thirty miles from the
White Cliffs, and on the same bank ; it is an insulated
promontory, which, to the eye, has no connexion with
the heights of the Natchez- it is composed of three emi-
nences connected together, two of which front the country,
and the third the river, touching its banks; the slope is
very rapid, and difficult of access, but not perpendicular.
Behind these heights are swampy lands, full of cypress
trees. The part of the height nearest the river commands
that which looks towards the country. In general, the
rock of Avion is more elevated than the heights of the
Natchez.
From the summit of the rock of Avion, on turning
towards the east, an immense extent of country is dis-
covered; the chain of the Natchez is seen running east-
north-east, and sometimes north-east. The whole of the
intermediate country, from this chain to the rock of
Avion, is low, swampy, and intersected with cypress
woods and small lakes.
rj0 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
On the western side is descried a great part of the
course of the Red River, coming from the north-north-
west, and forming at its mouth a very acute angle with
the Mississipi. Ten miles from its mouth, the country
which it traverses rises gradually, till it reaches the feet
of the heights of Washita ; the distance of which to the
banks of the river may be reckoned at forty or forty-five
miles, in a right line.
The rock of Avion might serve for the establishment
of a very good post, being the only height of this kind
between the Natchez and Baton Rouge. But we shall
enter into no details on this subject, as this position will
necessarily belong to the United States, if the boundary
line be fixed at the thirty-first degree and an half of
latitude.
The Tonicas is not a river, but a channel or passage
opened by the waters of the Mississipi : its entrance is
situated on the left side, six miles below the rock of
Avion, and its outlet at forty-five miles from its entrance;
it is almost fifty or sixty yards broad at its mouth. This
passage is practicable only in high waters and in going
up; since it would be too dangerous to descend, on
account of the rapidity of its current, and the great
obstacles with which its bed is encumbered.
OF NORTH AMERICA, 7 1
Immediately after the outlet of the Tonicas, on the
same side, is a small insulated height, called the height
of the Tonicas; this spot is remarkable only from the
probability, after the observations made, that it is the
point of the frontier line, which is in future to separate
the possessions of Spain and those of the United States.
Twelve miles below, we left on the right the highest
mouth of the Mississipi, called Chafalaya; this is the
first outlet, the waters of which, after traversing a very
fertile country, empty themselves into the bay of St.
Bernard.
The district of Pointe Coupee begins at the entrance
of the Tonicas, and terminates at False River ; the first
settlements which we found were, however, thirty miles
below the entrance of the Tonicas; it is at this point
also that the waters of the river begin to be restrained by
artificial dikes.
Thirty-six miles before reaching the church of Pointe
Coupee, we left on the right another channel, opened by
the waters of the river, and which is only sixteen or
twenty yards broad at its mouth. It is dry during the
whole summer, and is navigable only for pirogues in
high waters, and only in going up; having, from the
embarrassments and rapidity of its current, the same
inconveniencies for descending as the Tonicas.
72 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
By this passage, the road to the church of Pointe
Coupee is shortened twenty-one miles.
The population of Pointe Coupee, according to the last
enumeration, amounted to about ten or eleven thousand
souls, in which number there are not above three hundred
men capable of bearing arms.
Three miles on the left before reaching the church,
are the ruins of a fort, of which scarcely a trace remains.
Its figure was that of a square, flanked by four bastions
of earth ; the ditch is entirely filled up, and the parapets
effaced ; the commander and one man form the whole of
the garrison.
Fifteen miles from the church of Pointe Couple, on
the left, we meet again with a very feeble branch of the
heights of the Tonicas, which had disappeared ; it seems
that the last ramification of these heights terminates at
this point.
This branch, called the cliffs of Pointe Coupee, extends
a mile along the river. These cliffs are not more than
thirty feet in height, and are formed by a number of
small perpendicular cliffs, extremely white, and altogether
of the same nature as that of the White Cliffs ; they fall
away behind with a gentle slope of two miles, and end
in swampy ground. Their direction is north-east, lijce
the others which we found on this bank.
OF WORTH AMERICA, 73
The cliffs of Pointe Coupee are too equal, and have
the ground on their summits too irregular to establish a
post of any importance; these cliffs can never serve for
any other military object than as a point of observation
against whatever comes from the Natchez or the Baton
Rouge, the distance from which is not more than
thirteen miles
VOL. II.
( 75 )
CHAPTER XXII.
Continuation of the military description of the Mississipi from
Baton Rouge to the river Plaquemine. — Baton Rouge. —
Military position. — Fort. — Reflections. — Intrenched camp. —
River of Iberville. — Observations. — Designation of different
channels. — Communication of lake Pont chartrain, by the rivers
Amit and Tanchipas. — Passage of lake Maurepas.— Observa-
tion.— Channel of Iberville. — Inconveniences of its navigation.
— Remarks on the river AnataJiama.
I HE district of Baton Rouge begins at False River,
and ends at that of Iberville. It is a new settlement,
amounting to no more than five or six hundred in-
habitants.
The etymology of Baton Rouge goes back to the
time when several Indian nations inhabited these countries,
and who, in order to mark their bounds, made use of a
great pole or stick, which they painted red, and which
was placed on the frontier line.
76 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
The post of Baton Rouge is a small platform A,*
on the left side of the river and from twenty to twenty-
five feet above the level of the highest waters. The left
of this post is supported by a small creek B, navigable
for canoes eight months in the year; in which creek
there is a constant current. Its right ends by a gentle
slope in a cultivated plain C. It is bounded behind at
six hundred yards distance, by a vast grove of cypress
trees D, in which there are from ten to twelve feet
of water in the season of inundations, but which, in dry
weather, forms an impracticable morass.
In the front runs the river, the banks of which
form, as we have just observed, the steep E of twenty
or twenty-five feet, sometimes perpendicular, sometimes
accessible, but always difficult. At the foot of this
talus, the alluvion has formed the low ground F, which
is very unequal in breadth. The soil is sandy, but
solid, and is covered in high waters.
Eight hundred yards from the creek B, on the summit
of the platform, are the sources of the little rivulet G,
which throws its waters into the Mississipi, and which,
in its course, has formed a very deep defile. The
road passable for carriages, coming from Pointe Coupee,
* See the Plan.
OF NORTH AMERICA. jj
and leading to New Orleans, crosses ; it and if we except
the little mound H, which must be regarded as factitious,
being only an Indian tomb, the whole of this platform
is a perfect planimetre, uninterrupted either by woods,
defiles, or any undulation whatever. Its extent may
be about three thousand yards in length and six hundred
in breadth.
The fort I is situated about eight hundred yards
from the creek B, near the sources of the little rivulet,
and about a thousand yards from the mound H. Its
figure is that of a star; it has a ditch with a covered
way, but is so neglected since the peace, that the covered
way has disappeared altogether, and the embrasures
which were on the parapet, serve at present for entrances
to carriages. Nothing remains but the commander's
dwelling and a small barrack; the garrison consists
of fifteen men.
On the supposition that Louisiana belonged to any
other power than the United States, and that by some
wrong system of policy, in contradiction with the laws
of nature, and the rules of military operations, such
power should be desirous to retain possession of any
territory on the left side of the river, the position of
Baton Rouge, notwithstanding its defects, would become
a very important point, since it is the only one which
y 8 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
exists between the Tonicas, where the new limits are
to pass, and New Orleans. Oh this hypothesis, Baton
Rouge covers this last place against every thing which
could come down from the upper part of the river,
the distance of which is only one hundred and twenty
miles; during that space, the land is constantly low,
uniform, and opened by a great communication which
leads to the capital.
The enemy once master of Baton Rouge, necessarily
gains possession, from this situation, of the whole of
this bank to the mouth of the river j since he meets
with no obstacles of any kind to his progress.
From this sketch it may be perceived, that the
weak part of this position is the left C; and it was
also on this side that it was attacked by the Spaniards,
who took advantage of the small mound H to erect their
batteries against the fort I, and of the steep E to make
their approaches. But the defect of this weak part is
less considerable, as long as those entrusted with its
defence are in possession of New Orleans; since the
points of attack are turned on the side of this place,
and those which present most difficulties, are on the
side of the United States.
The Americans can never attack the post of Baton
Rouge, but by descending the river, or in coming by
OP NORTH AMERICA. 79
land along the road, which from Pointe Coupee ends at
the creek B; but to effect this purpose they must force
either the passage of the river or that of the creek 5 since
they cannot turn this position in the rear, on account of
the insurmountable obstacle occasioned by the cypress
marsh, the extent of which is yet unknown.
This being admitted, the object which ought to be
kept in view in the holding this position, is to present
every difficulty, both of nature and art, against whatever
should come from the Upper Mississipi, either by water
or land.
To carry this point into full execution, it would be
expedient;
First, To occupy the whole platform, which would
be easy, from its little extent :
Secondly, To keep back the waters of the creek by a
sluice, so as to cause an inundation, which from the
nature of the ground would naturally form a junction
with the waters of the cypress marsh :
Thirdly, To protect the sluice by a redoubt formed
at the point No. 1, which should contain a good battery,
so placed as to point its fire on the sluice and the river:
Fourthly, To erect a small fleche at the point No. 2,
to guard the whole of this part of the inundation, and
80 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
chiefly the point of junction between the water of thi§
creek and that of the cypress marsh :
Fifthly, To leave the principal fort I as it stands at
present; taking care only to give it a different form, so
as to fulfil the double object of supporting the redoubt
No. j , and the passage of the river.
By the first arrangement, the rear, the right, and
front of this position would be perfectly covered, and
nothing would remain but to provide for the left. But
the enemy cannot attack on this point, until the passage
of the river be forced ; and it is not probable, militarily
speaking, that this would be attempted, because his
position would become so much the more dangerous,
since a body of troops, marching from New Orleans,
would place the enemy between two fires, and cut off his
communication with the river.
Nevertheless, as every thing should be foreseen, since
events the least probable frequently take place in war,
the right should be covered by a good redoubt, closed
by the defile at the point No. 3, which should connect,
on the road and the river, with another small redoubt
at the point No. 4, where the ground begins to incline
towards the plain and the cypress marsh, and where
the fires of both would cross with those of the redoubt
No. 5.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 8l
A staccado should be formed between the river and
the redoubt No. 3, to bar the passage of the slip of ground
formed by the raised earth E, and a few gallies should be
placed under the protection of the fort No. 5.
To complete this defence, it should be examined how
far it would be proper to rase the mound H, or whether
it would not be preferable, and this is our opinion, to
build a good redoubt to support those of Nos. 3 and 4 ;
in this case, these should be opened by their gorges.
This position, defended by a thousand or twelve hun-
dred men, would be very respectable, and force the enemy
to a great expenditure both of men and money, in order
gain possession it; motives sufficient to stop any power,
and still more the Americans; since a single war against
the Indians, for a few years, would be sufficient to exhaust
their finances, if we may judge by the expence incurred
for the maintenance of that in which they have lately
been engaged against the Six Nations,* during three cam-
paigns ; although their troops never exceeded the number
x>f two thousand effective men, with a very feeble train
of field pieces.
From Baton Rouge to the river of Ibberville is reckoned
thirty miles. Before we speak of these two rivers in their
* See Mr. Wolcott's statement of the expences.
VOL. II. X,
82 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
various details, it is necessary to animadvert on a few
errors which exist in every geographical chart of this
part of the world.
The names of Massiac, Manchaque, Ascantia, Amit,
and Ibberville, which are found in almost every chart,
are so mingled together, that it is become at present almost
impossible for a stranger to know what are the passages
or canals which they describe j and these errors still exist
even among the inhabitants of the country, when they
speak of this internal navigation. The consequence is,
that they often confound the space which separates the
river from the lake Maurepas, with that which separates
lake Maurepas from lake Pontchartrain. In order to avoid
this confusion, we shall distinguish, by particular names,
the country watered by these respective rivers, from lake
Pontchartrain to the mouth of the canal of Ibberville;
and in order to be more intelligible, we shall begin our
description by lake Pontchartrain*
The channel or passage which leads from lake Pont-
chartrain to lake Maurepas, ought to be called- the river
Massiac, and the two passages formed by the Great Island,
* We took ourselves the survey of this river, from the Mississipi to the
river Amit ; the remainder, from the Amit to the sea, has been furnished
by a pilot well acquainted with this river and the lakes.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 83
ought likewise to be distinguished, that on the north-
west by the name of the Small Channel, that on the
south-west, by the name of the Great Channel. The
large island which forms these two passages is called
Massiac Island. The space from lake Maurepas to the
Fork of the Amit and Ibberville Rivers, ought to be called
the river Amit. The distance between the point where
the river Amit makes this fork and the Mississipi, is called
the channel of Ibberville, the word river being improper,
since this channel is supplied only, by the waters of the
Mississipi, and that only when its bed is full; that is,
from the beginning of February to the end of June.
I shall now make a few observations respecting the
navigation of these different channels, and the nature of
the adjacent country.
At the entrance of the river Massiac, after leaving lake
Pontchartrain, the depth of water is from three to four
fathom; this depth continues the same half way the
channel, keeping always on the western side. Having
reached this point, we directed our course along the
middle of the channel, where the depth of water is four
or five fathom, till we reached the point of Massiac
Island, which forms two passages. Though both are
equally deep, the South-West, or Great Channel, is the
best, having less windings than the Little Channel, and
84 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
consequently shorter and less filled with shoals. In the
great passage the depth is never less than five fathom.
The distance from lake Pontchartrain to lake Maurepas
is eleven miles.
There is another communication from lake Pontchar-
train to lake Maurepas, and which is much frequented
by the Indians ; this passage is made by going up the little
river Tanchipas, which falls into lake Pontchartrain, the
sources of which river communicate with another small
river, called Nitabani, and which falls into lake Maurepas ;
but this passage is practicable only for canoes, and is
eighteen miles in length. This communication, which
is longer than the other, and more difficult, is but little
resorted to by the inhabitants; it ought not, however,
to be overlooked, as far as respects its military position,
and a post at the junction of the sources of these small
rivers is indispensable.
A mile before leaving Massiac river, and entering lake
Maurepas, care must be taken to keep very near Massiac
Island, to avoid a great sand-bank, which is on the
opposite side, and which extends nearly two miles. By
steering in this manner during these two miles, seven feet
water will be found on the bar j but the moment this bar
is passed, the soundings give fifteen and sixteen feet,
which is an indication of the entrance into lake Maurepas.
OT NORTH AMERICA. 85
In order to traverse lake Maurepas with safety, we
must keep close to the north side, about the distance of a
mile or a mile and an half. In following this course,
the soundings are always from eight to fifteen fathom, on
a gravelly bottom ; the distance in crossing from Massiac
River to the Amit is about eight miles. The lands bor-
dering on lake Maurepas are all very low, often swampy
and covered with wood, which renders it very difficult
to distinguish the mouth of the river Amit, the direction
of which, in going out from the river Massiac, is west-
south-west. It is situated in the bottom of a bay, and
its entrance may be known by the great quantity of
drift-wood accumulated on both sides, and forming con-
siderable masses, the greater part of which is dry when
the waters are low. The marks on the trees show that
when the waters are high, both banks of the river Amit
are covered to the depth of a foot and an half; this kind
of ground continues a league, reckoning from the mouth
of the river; the land then rises a little, and is no longer
liable to the same inconvenience, at least in ordinary
freshes. Half a league higher the country lowers again,
and is full of marshes and bogs; here the waters, from
the mark on the trees, appear to rise to the height of
three feet, which proves that the lands are half as low
again as those which are at the entrance of the river.
86 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
From lake Maurepas to the point where the river
Amit throws itself into the channel of Ibberville, a
distance of forty-one miles, we meet with a considerable
number of small tributary rivers; as these are all very
carefully noted in the chart, it is very important for those
who navigate this river without a pilot, to follow it
exactly; since all the lands watered by the river Amit
being extremely low, covered with wood, and the mouth
of these different rivers presenting, on the first inspection,
the same breadth as the bed of the river Amit, it is easy
to mistake, and to ascend one of these instead of the
Amit itself.
The nearer we approach the point where the Amit
joins the channel of Ibberville, the stronger the current
becomes; its rapidity is sometimes three miles an hour,
while near lake Maurepas it is scarcely to be perceived.
The channel between the waters of the Mississipi and
the point where the Amit joins, which we have designated
by the name of channel of Ibberville, is but sixty yards
wide at its mouth, and is navigable only when the waters
of the Mississipi are at their greatest height, the season
of which we have already mentioned. This distance is
reckoned eighteen miles. When the waters of the Mis-
sissipi flow into the channel of Ibberville not to return,
which lasts only four months, this channel is navigable;
OP NORTH AMERICA. g-r
but the instant the waters of the river diminish, the
navigation is interrupted by the immense quantity of
drift-wood which is accumulated at this point, and which
so embarrasses the channel, that it is sometimes choked
up. Independently of this obstacle, when the waters are
at the lowest, in the months of August, September, and
October, a part of the channel is entirely dry, which
obliges the boatmen to unload their barges at the mouth
of the river Anatamaha, and carry their goods and vessels
across the land to the Mississipi. This portage is nine
miles. The other portion of the channel of Ibberville,
that is, from the river Anatamaha to the Amit, continues
to be navigable, because it is fed by the waters of the
river Amit, which flow back to this spot. I have thought
proper to enter into these minute details, in order to give
a clear and just idea of these different currents of water,
which are very important to be known, as well in a
military as a commercial point of view.
During the whole course of the navigation of the river
Amit, the depth of water varies but little, and we con-
stantly found from twenty to twenty-five, and never less
than eighteen feet. Decked vessels, therefore, and brigs
may go up this river at all times; but as soon as they
enter the channel of Ibberville, and immediately after
50 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
passing the river Amit, the water falls suddenly to ten,
eight, six, five, four, two feet, and at length to zero.
In the whole of this passage, which may be reckoned
at seventy-nine miles, counting from lake Maurepas to
the Mississipi, the oar alone can be used; there is too
much water for the poles, and the branches of the trees
which line both banks fall so low, that it is impossible
to hoist a mast. These inconveniences, however, are but
momentary, and it is easy to conceive that they will soon
disappear, whenever the country shall be cleared and
peopled.
Though these lands are in general low and formed
by depots, some variations may, however, be remarked
between the river Anatamaha and the river Amit. This
space, fifteen miles in length, is composed of two sorts
of ground; during the first six miles, the land is low and
under water to the depth of ten feet; after which, at
irregular distances of six and eight hundred yards, are
little gentle elevations covered with bamboos, and which
are never overflowed: these spots are called Tayou-Lasay.
The little river Anatamaha, which signifies in the
Indian language fishy river, is remarkable for the immense
quantity of fish of all kinds with which it is filled, and
which is without doubt the reason why it is frequented
OP NORTH AMERICA. gq
by such multitudes of alligators; this circumstance renders
the navigation very dangerous for persons who venture
alone and without sufficient precaution.
We have just observed, that a part of the channel of
the Ibberville was choked by the drift-wood which the
current of the Mississipi leaves at every annual overflow,
and by a great quantity of trees that fall into the water
from both banks, and which, reaching from one side to
^the other, present an impenetrable barrier to the trees
and drift-wood brought down the stream. Several at-
tempts have been made to open this passage; it was under-
taken by the English at the time they were in possession
of this colony, by sawing, when the waters were low,
these immense pieces of wood, that at the increase of
the waters they might float away. But unfortunately,
this operation was begun at the head of the channel,
that is, in the part nearest the Mississipi, instead of
beginning betow, near the mouth of the river Anata-
maha; from whence it followed that the trees which-
remained whole, continued to stop those that were cut;
because it is the water of the Mississipi which flows into
the channel of Ibberville, and which instead of flowing
back empties itself into lake Maurepas. There is no doubt
but if they had begun in the lower part, this channel
would at length have been cleared.
vol. ir.
go SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
It is thought that this communication might be very-
useful for the trade of the Floridas and the Mobile with
Tointe Coupee, the Natchez, the Attacapas, the Natchi-
tochez, and the various establishments formed to the
west of the river in Lower Louisiana; but time and
circumstances do not permit me to enter into a question
of this importance.
OF NORTH AMERICA.
9*
CHAPTER XXIII.
Continuation of the military description of the Mississipi, from
the river Plaquemines to the Balise. — River Plaquemines. — •
Fork of Chetimacha. — Observations. — Nature of the country.
— Arrest of the author. — New Orleans. — Canal. — Forts. —
Reflection. — Departure for the Balise. — Estimated distance. —
English Bend. — Fort Plaquemines. — Observations. — Otter
Passage. — South-west Passage. — East Passage.^Time neces-
sary to go up to New Orleans. — Mistakes on this subject. —
Singular country. — River of the Mobile.
Six miies below the river Ibberville, on the right, lies
Plaquemines River, called river as improperly as the
preceding, being only a passage, which the waters of
the Mississipi have made towards the west, to empty
themselves into the gulf of Mexico, in passing by the
Appelouza. Like the Ibberville, this passage is dry after
the rains.
M 2
92
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
Thirty-six miles lower, on the same side, is another
outlet of the river, called the fork of Chetimacha, which
also conveys the overflow of the waters of the river into
the gulf of Mexico, after passing the Attacapas.
RECAPITULATION OF THESE DIFFERENT BRANCHES.
i. Chafalaya, on the western side:
2. River Ibberville, on the eastern side:
3. River Plaquemines, on the western side :
4. Chetimacha, on the western side.
We observe with regret, to the disgrace of the dif-
ferent powers which have been in possession of Louisiana,
that no detailed or certain knowledge has yet been ac-
quired respecting the nature of these different channels.
A few traders or forest men have descended to no great
distance from the mouths of these outlets; but no one
with talents fitted for such a survey has yet undertaken
to reach by one of these openings the bay of St. Bernard,
or that of the Attacapas, and in coasting return to the
mouths of the Mississipi by sea: hence it follows that
every one gives a different account, and that the govern-
ment, as well as individuals, have very uncertain notions
respecting the nature of the country through which these
branches flow, the state of the navigation, the means
OP NORTH AMERICA. Cj5
which might be employed to overcome such obstacles as
may occur, and in short the nature of the posts and
harbours where these channels empty themselves, either
in the bay of St. Bernard or that of the Attacapas.
From the fork of Chetimacha to New Orleans is
reckoned sixty miles.
The whole of this space is remarkable neither for its
military position nor for its channels; it is much more
so for the finest settlements of Lower Louisiana, which
succeed each other without any interruption along both
sides of the river to the capital.
The first we met with were those of the Accadians,
so well known by their industry, their social virtues,
and their love for their country. Next to these are the
Germans, the oldest settlers in Louisiana, and who are
inferior to the Accadians neither for industry nor moral
qualities.
After these are the vast plantations of our great colonial
capitalists, which are become so advantageous within
these few years from the cultivation of the sugar cane ;
the growth of indigo and cotton has given place to this
new production, the rapid success of which will prove
an abundant source of riches to the colony.* It is
* See the Chapter on Agriculture..
jq4: survey op the western rivers
amidst this charming landscape that the traveller is
conveyed gently on by the current of the river to New
Orleans.
My fellow traveller and myself had reached the distance
of only two leagues from that town, when we were ar-
rested at the house of Mr. Bore, where we had alighted.
I shall not interrupt the thread of my narration, by
giving in this place an account of this transaction, which
will be found at the end of this chapter.
The town of New Orleans is situated on the left side
of the Mississipi, and not on an island as many travellers
have related j although it sometimes happens, that the
water, by means of a channel, encircles the ground on
which it is built, as a ditch surrounds a fortified place:
this channel was at first made by inundations, and com-
pleted afterwards by manual labor. As this ground, if
we may use the expression, is thus enchased on the left
side, and part of the bank of the river follows the same
direction, without any irregularities or jutting points,
the bed of the river is neither larger nor narrower either
above or below ; there is no reason, therefore, why this
spot should be called an island, and still less to doubt
whether or no it belongs to the left side.
The spot on which the town is built, as well as the
country surrounding it to an indefinite distance, is level,
OP NORTH AMERICA. g5
without heights, mounds, or the slightest undulation,
and both banks are of the same nature.
The form of the town is that of an oblong square,
five streets in breadth and seven in length, each at right
angles. The population is composed of about ten thousand
souls, including the free mulattoes and the slaves. The
proportion of whites is six thousand, one thousand of
whom are militia, and two hundred formed into a com-
pany of dragoons. The houses are in general built of
wood, except a few public edifices.
At the upper part of the town, opposite the river, is
the draining channel, which has been opened from the
river to lake Maurepas. It is twenty-four feet broad, and
eight feet deep. This channel furnishes water to the
ditch which surrounds the town, by means of a sluice.
The defence of this place consists in five small forts,
and a great battery, the whole of which is distributed in
the following manner.
On the side which fronts the river, and at both ends
of the town, are two forts, Nos. 1 and 2, which look
upon the road and the river. Their figure is a very regular
pentagon, having a parapet of eighteen feet thick, lined
with brick, with a ditch and covered way. The ditch is
eight feet in depth, and twenty broad. In each of these
forts are barracks for one hundred and fifty men, and a
g6 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
powder magazine. The artillery is composed of twelve
twelve and eighteen-pounders.
Between these two forts, and in front of the principal
street of the town, is a great battery, No. 3, opened on the
6ide towards the river, and which crosses its fire with
those of the two forts.
The first of these forts, that is, the fort on the right,
and which is the most considerable, is called St. Charles,*
and the other St. Lewis.
In the rear, and to cover the town on the side next
the country, are three other forts Nos. 4, 5, and 6, which
are less considerable than the two first. There is one at
each of the two angles of the square formed by the town,
and a third between these two a little in front, so as to
form an obtuse angle. These three forts have no covered
way, but only stakes and palisadoes. They are each
mounted with eight guns, but of what bore I am igno-
rant; there are barracks, also, for an hundred men.
That on the right is called fort Bourgogne; that on
the left St. Ferdinand, and that in the middle St. Joseph.
The five forts and the battery cross each other's fires,
and are connected by a ditch forty feet broad and seven
deep. With the earth of the ditch has been formed, on
* It was in this fort that we were imprisoned.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 97
the inside, a causeway three feet in height, and on which
were placed great picquets of twelve feet, very near
each other. Behind these picquets is a small banquette.
On the side of the ditch the earth has been simply thrown
out, which renders the slope gentle and easy. By means
of different communications formed between these ditches
and the draining channel, there is always four feet of
water, even in the driest seasons.
It must be admitted that these forts are well kept up;
but at the same time they look rather like mock fortifi-
cations, from their diminutive size, and especially from
their ridiculous distribution, than places of war ■ for
there is not one of these forts that is sheltered, and
which five hundred determined men could not carry
sword in hand. Should one of the two principal forts,
either that of St. Lewis or St. Charles, be taken, the
others are rendered of very little importance; for by
turning a part of the guns against the town, it would
immediately be forced to capitulate, since it might be
burned in an hour, and all its inhabitants destroyed.
None of the forts can contain above one hundred and
fifty men : but when Mr. de Carondelet adopted this bad
system of defence, it is more likely that he had rather
in view to keep his Catholic Majesty's subjects in due
subordination than to cover the town; and if this be
0,8 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
the case, he has completely attained his object. It is
one of the misfortunes of this government, to have
more to fear from enemies within than from those
without.
Continually surrounded by bayonets during our resi-
dence at New Orleans, it was not possible for us to
reconnoitre in detail the country which surrounds it,
and consequently we can give no just idea of the proper
mode of defence, considering the importance and situation
of this place. It however appeared to us a point to
examine, whether a well-planned fort with just propor-
tions, and in a state to sustain a siege, could not be
better placed on the spot where fort St. Lewis is situated
at present, especially by adding a few works to defend
the passage of the channel, to the point where it begins
to enter on the swampy and impassable marshes ; a
passage which may be reckoned at twelve or fourteen
hundred yards. In this case, it would be unnecessary
to fortify the town, which cannot be attacked on the
lower side, provided the entrance of the river be defended.
An air always damp, stagnant waters, and marshy
grounds, cannot but have a very noxious influence on the
human constitution. Ages must elapse before a country
just emerged from the waters can be sufficiently dried,
and the air acquire a proper state of purity. It is then
OP NORTH AMERICA. qq
only that New Orleans will cease to feel the effects of
its origin.*
After having remained in a state of arrest fifteen days
at New Orleans, where I lost my unfortunate fellow-
traveller, who died in consequence of his wounds, and
having rendered him, with the sentiments of the most
tender friendship, the honors due to his virtues and his
talents, I embarked on board a king's galley, and was
conducted to the Balise, where I was to remain till a
vessel should convey me to the United States.
The distance from New Orleans to the mouths of the
rjver, that is, to the Balise, is reckoned ninety-nine miles.
During the first forty-five miles both sides of the river
continue to be well inhabited j but the number of good
houses diminishes very perceptibly as we proceeded, till
we came to the English Bend (Detour des Anglais), where
the country begins to be swampy and uninhabitable.
From this point there is not a single settlement, no jettees
or roads ; the surrounding marshes are covered with reeds
and rushes, and serve only for shelter to water fowl.
The English Bend is an elbow of the river, which
from this part to the sea makes several windings. This
* Of four persons, including myself, who arrived at New Orleans,
three died in the course of eight days.
N 2
100 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
point was formerly chosen by the English to defend the
entrance of the river, and two small forts had been
erected; but the Spaniards have abandoned them, and
have chosen a better position twenty miles lower, called
the Bend of Plaquemines (Detour de Plaquemines), which
is only eighteen miles distant from the first mouth of the
river. Here a very considerable fort has been constructed,
called fort Plaquemines. This fort is situated on the left
side of the river, at the mouth of a small creek, called
Mardi Gras, on a moving marsh which extends as far as
the sea, and which presenting no outlet by the land can
be reached only by the river. Its form is so irregular,
that it is difficult to give any clear description, especially
having had but a transient view. It is a bastion, closed
by two long branches broken in the middle, which gives
it, at the first glance, the air of a hornwork. The
parapets which front the river are eighteen feet thick,
lined with brick, and it is surrounded with a ditch twenty
feet long and twelve thick.*
The two great branches and the gorge are defended
only by a causeway, the width of which has been taken
from the ditch ; this ditch is of the same breadth and
depth on each side as in the front; on the causeway are
* See the plan of this fort.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 101
placed picquets twelve feet in height. Mardi Gras Creek
furnishes water to all the ditches.
Within the fort are barracks for three hundred men,
a house for the commander, and a very good powder
magazine. On the northern side is a small bank, that
extends a thousand yards along the river, and is directed
upon one of the points of the bastion, in which is a gate
with a drawbridge. This is the only outlet of the fort,
without running the risk of being swallowed up in the
mud.
Twenty-four guns of different sizes form the battery,
and a captain with an hundred men, who are relieved
every month, form the garrison.
This fort is intended to defend the entrance of the
river, and consequently to cover New Orleans on the side
of the sea. In this point of view it is excellent, and the
spot has been perfectly well chosen ; not only because it
is covered by the creek of Mardi Gras, but also because
it is situated precisely at the point where the land on both
sides ceases to be adherent and practicable. It is of course
impossible to land on either side the river, either above
or below the fort, and for this reason, no approach can
be made without constructing works which cannot be
undertaken but with the necessary materials, such as are
not easily conveyed by water. The difficulty would not
102 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
be less were an attempt made to force the passage of the
river j since no other vessels can enter than sloops and
small frigates: independently of the consideration that
the fort would present a very formidable artillery against
vessels of slight construction, by means of red-hot balls
and bombs, which an enemy could scarcely resist. The
river in this place is not more than twelve or fourteen
hundred yards in width, and on the supposition that a
few armed vessels should force the passage, transports
would certainly run the risk of being sunk one after
the other. It may also be observed, that as long as this
fort exists, the communication between the sea and the
invading army would be in danger of being intercepted.
Two gallics, therefore, placed under the protection of
the fort of Plaquemines would be sufficient to hinder any
force whatever from ascending the river; and we may
add, that an enemy acquainted with the place and dis-»
positions would never undertake the invasion.
But these advantages are not without their inconve-
niences. These moving or rather floating grounds admit
of no foundation, on the solidity of which there is any
dependence. The fort, -that is the part covered with
brick, though built on piles twenty feet long and two
thick, and fixed within six inches of each other, has
already given way more than three feet on the side of
OF NORTH AMERICA. 105
the creek, and two on the eastern side. The linings of
brick, and which have been constructed scarcely three
years, are as much damaged as the other parts. The
banks of the river are every day falling in, notwith-
standing the stakes and the hundred galley slaves employed
the whole year to keep them in repair; these circumstances
lead us to doubt whether the land will take any firm
settlement, at least for a long time.
Eighteen miles below fort Plaquemines, on the left
side, is the Otter Passage (Passe de la Loutre), the most
northerly of the whole. Six miles below we left on the
right that of the south-west, and twelve miles still lower
is the Balise, about four hundred yards up a small creek
which runs into the Great or Eastern Passage.
It was here that I was landed at the house of the
master pilot, called Ronquille, an honest and intelligent
man, and to whom I am indebted for the permission of
having visited the coast and different passages of the river.
The Otter or North-Eastern Passage has been choked
up these forty years past, and is navigable at present only
for canoes. An American vessel, which a few hours before
my arrival had entered it by mistake during the night,
instead of the eastern passage, had struck. I accompanied
the master pilot, who went to carry succour, and we
found it twelve hundred yards within the entrance of the
104 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
passage, ashore on the mud. As the tide was at ebb, we
waited for the flood to see if the vessel would not rise :
all efforts were useless, and we were obliged to unload
her till she drew but three feet of water, her lading being
four and an half. During this operation, I sounded this
bar for two miles, and never found above three feet and
an half of water.
The Western Passage is somewhat better, and has
been stopped only ten years. The master pilot, who had
resided at the Balise since the cession of Louisiana to
Spain, assured me that he had piloted vessels through;
though at present there is not above five, six, and seven
feet water. I sounded it also at different places, and found
no variations,
The Eastern or Middle Passage is that which is now
used, and, according to his account, is the best which
the river has ever opened.
Its ordinary depth in the bar is fourteen feet, and in
the most favorable season, with wind and tide, is fifteen
feet and an half measured with the pole and not with
the lead, which is very different, on account of the
bending of the cord when the soundings are made with
the latter.
The highest tide is never more than two feet and an
half or three feet, and common tides but a foot and three
OF NORTH AMERICA. 10LJ
inches. This pass is nearly three miles long, and from
forty to fifty yards broad; from whence it happens, that a
vessel, stopped in the midst by contrary winds or by any
other accident, and forced to cast anchor, would entirely
block it up. The pass changes its direction more or less
every month, so as to occasion fresh soundings and buoys.
Its direction at this time was south-east. The north-
easterly winds were then preferred by the master pilot,
both for coming in and going out.
With respect to the time commonly employed in
navigating vessels from the Balise to New Orleans, which,
like every description of this river, has been much exag-
gerated by those who have written on this subject, the
whole amounts to this:
The common passage from the mouth of the river up
to New Orleans is eight, nine, and ten da}rs ; the shortest
is five, and even four, as I was a witness with respect to
an American brig the Active.
The tide at all times of the year rises as high as Pla-
quemines, which is a third of the way ; and as the river
has several windings, it is impossible, in whatever direction
the wind blows, that it should be always contrary. If,
therefore, a vessel be well directed and keeps close to the
wind, the passage cannot be longer than ten days.
VOL. II. o
106 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
But there are so many ignorant seamen and so much
bad shipping employed in this voyage, that the captains,
to excuse their blunders, never fail to attribute their
delays and losses to the great impediments they meet with
either in going up or down the river, and hence the
variety of absurd tales which are related. The following
instance, of which I was an eye witness, is a proof.
A three - masted vessel, drawing thirteen feet water,
Captain Th. . ., an American, master, and belonging to
Mr. Flechier, merchant, at New Orleans, remained eleven
days at the Balise before she could go out, though there
were fourteen feet water in the passage, and the winds
were excellent. He attempted twice to cross the bar, and
twice he was obliged to return to anchor at the Balise, and
at last unload a part of his cargo, which caused a con-
siderable expence and loss of time. If it be asked, how
. this happened when the winds and tides were both
favorable, it may be answered, that the captain was an
ignorant man, that his vessel could neither carry sail nor
keep the wind, that it was ill ballasted, drawing thirteen
feet and an half ahead and but twelve astern, which
prevented him from steering. Ronquille, who knew the
ship and the captain, as soon as he saw it coming down,
said to me, " Here is a vessel that will not go out." He
OF NORTH AMERICA. 10J
told ine the reason, and repeated it before the captain, who
paid no attention to his observations, and who did not
fail to lay the whole blame on the difficulty of the naviga-
tion, for the expence and loss of time which his ignorance
had cost his employers.
It might naturally be presumed, after the great
inundations which take place in the upper parts of the
Mississipi, that the mouths of the river are equally over-
flowed; this is not the case, although there is scarcely
six inches difference between the level of the water and
the banks. The reason is obvious; for the whole of the
ground which forms the mouths of the river as high as
Plaquemines, are what is called floating, and rise or sink
with the river. It has even been observed^ that there is
less water in the pass when the river is very high than
when it is low. The south-west pass is however an
exception to this rule, and does not feel the same effects;
as I found, on examining the whole, that the lands which
surround it are adherent to the gulf, as well as all the
islands without the mouths of the river.
There are, nevertheless, certain times when these
floating grounds are overflowed, but this never happens
but in those convulsions called hurricanes. The sea at
these seasons rises to a prodigious height with respect to
108 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
the land, which is covered from ten to twelve feet, as
happened in 1794.
The whole of the coast, from the mouths of the
Mississipi to that of the Mobile, called West Florida, is
a vast uniform solitary plain; but where an elevation
interrupts this sameness, the country presents a more
smiling aspect, and the air is pure and less humid. This
uniformity is sometimes broken by forests, which extend,
according to the nature of the ground, to the edge of
the gulf: these are large trees grouped together, without
symmetry or order, and with little underwood.* The
soil, near the sea-coast and the mouths of rivers, is either
a dark and unwholesome marsh, or composed of light and
sandy earth which produces nothing. Great tracks of
white sand, in which grow only pines, border these
marshes; the country appears dull during the summer;
in winter this appearance must be much more desolate.
With respect to the Mobile, I received the following
account from an officer who resided several years in the
town of that name. The mouth of the bay of the Mobile
is situated in thirty degrees fifteen minutes northern
latitude, and eighty-eight degrees twelve minutes lon-
gitude from the meridian of Greenwich. Its bar is formed
* Among these trees the oak is found in great abundance,
OP NORTH AMERICA. IO9
by a great number of sand-banks at one and two leagues
distance from its mouth, and on which there are com-
monly fourteen or fifteen feet of water. Although these
sand-banks often change their place and direction, the
depth of water is almost always the same.
: After passing the bar, the soundings increase gradually,
and yield from five to seven fathom. This depth con-
tinues to the point of the Mobile, where on the eastern
side is good anchorage in six and seven fathom of water.
The inner part of the bay is every where ten and
eleven feet deep, and this depth continues the same till
within three leagues of the town.
In this bay there is neither rock nor stone ; the bottom
being of mud, if any vessel touches it meets with no
damage.
From the point of the Mobile to the town is a distance
of eleven leagues, which is the length of the bay. In this
space the breadth varies from three to five leagues.
The town of the Mobile is situated at the extremity
of the bay, on the western side, and in a marshy soil,
surrounded with large pools or inlets of water, which
render the situation extremely unhealthy. In spite of
these inconveniences and disadvantages, the town is
already considerable ; a small regular fort has been con-
110 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
structed of brick, as well as barracks for officers and
soldiers.
Several small rivers flow into the Mobile. At three
or four leagues from the mouth of the bay, and on the
eastern side, the first that presents itself is the river of
Bon Secoursj the second, a little to the north, is Fish
River (Riviere des Poissons). Several neat settlements are
already formed along their banks. Five or six leagues
above these rivers, and to the west, are two other con-
siderable rivers, one called Hen River (Riviere aux Poules),
and the other, a little to the north, Dog River (Riviere
aux Chiens). It is at this point that large vessels are
obliged to unload, and that the navigation of boats and
other small craft begins.
About ten leagues above the town of Mobile, the river
is intercepted by a great island, which forms two passages;
that on the east is called Tansa, and the other the Western
Passage. The last has a bar, on which are only seven
feet of water. A little to the east of this same passage,
and two leagues above its entrance, is the Spanish River
(Riviere Espagnole), in which there is at high tide nine
or ten feet of water.
Three leagues above the Tansa, the river Alibama
throws itself into the Mobile. This river runs north-east,
OF NORTH AMERICA. Ill
traverses a space of more than fifty leagues; that is, from
the confluence of the rivers Caussa and Tapalouse, both
very considerable, and on the banks of which are the
principal settlements of the Creek nation.
Above the junction of the Alibama and Mobile Rivers,
this last loses its name and takes that of Tombachee.
Ninety-six miles from the mouth of this river is fort
Tombachee. Forty leagues higher are the sources of
this river, near which is situated the great village of the
Chickasaws.
The Tombachee is navigable for goelettes, or other
vessels of the like burthen, forty leagues above Dog River
or Taskuloussa; beyond this point there is depth only
for barges or canoes carrying five or six thousand weight.
From the village of the Chickasaws is a carrying-place
of about three miles, at the end of which are the sources
of Bear's Creek, which falls into the Tennessee River;
and although this country be very mountainous, it would
be easy to open a communication, in following the direc-
tion of the defiles. The nature of the country and the
lands, from the mouths of the Mobile to its sources, may
be divided into three distinct classes. The first, which
extends from the point of the Mobile to the confluence of
the Alibama, is swampy for three quarters of a mile
along the banks of the river, and is fit only for the cul-
112 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
tivation of rice; this is ground brought down by the
successive overflowings of the river; it is of a blackish
color, mixed with sand.
The second extends nearly a mile and an half farther
inland, and rises about four or five feet, in the form of
a step, above the level of the other. The country is
equally flat, without the slightest elevation; the lands
are never overflowed, and are covered with very fine
wood of an enormous size; such as the white cedar, the
cypress, and the green oak. The color of the earth is
brown or chocolate; indigo, hemp, flax, and tobacco
flourish here exceedingly.
The third in succession is a more elevated and hilly
country. The lands are covered with green oaks, walnut
trees, and pines of an extraordinary height; but though
they are of a good quality, these lands are very inferior
to those of the two other classes, being fit only for maize,
potatoes, and plants which require a very light soil.
Further inland, and towards the west, is a country
of a very different nature. Here are natural meadows
of an immense extent, intersected with marshes, and
which offer excellent pasturage for all sorts of cattle.
But to the east of the Alibama River, onward to the river
Chatahoochee, is a country covered with bamboos so
large and thick that it is almost impenetrable.
OF NORTH AMERICA. Il5
The Mobile, generally speaking, ought to be con-
sidered as a river of the first order for commerce, after
the Mississipi, because whenever the population is so
extensive as to admit of a portage between its sources and
Bear's Creek, which falls into the Tennessee, the Mobile
will undoubtedly be one of the shortest and most direct
communications between the sea and the states of Ten-
nessee and Kentucky.
A considerable trade was carried on at the time the
English were in possession of the Mobile; the exportation
on an average, in furs and skins, was about three hundred
thousand francs a year: but since it has been in the pos-
session of Spain, the government of which has had the
impolicy to grant the English Company the exclusive trade
of this country, there is no more industry, and the
exportations at present do not amount to more than half
this sum.
Il4 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
ARREST
DP THE AUTHOR AND OF JOSEPH WARIN,
ADJUTANT-GENERAL, BY M. DE CARONDELET,
GOVERNOR OF LOUISIANA.
Before I reached New Orleans, I stopped at Mr. Bore's,
a planter, in Lower Louisiana, whose house is situated two
leagues from that capital.* I proposed remaining there
twenty-four hours, to examine with some attention the
interesting experiments which he had made on the sugar
cane, the first which till now had been crowned with
any success. I intended, in consequence, to send Adjutant
Warin to the Governor the next morning at day-break,
to inform him of my arrival, and to present him with the
* It is easy to conceive that all that I describe from the time I left
Mr. Bore's till I reached the Balise, must be very imperfect, since I had
only confided it to memory, after classing the different objects hi my mind.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 11$
letters and passports which I had received, as well from
the minister of his Catholic Majesty as from the French
plenipotentiary at the United States.
The 27th, at day-break, and at the moment that
Adjutant Warin was preparing for his departure, I was
informed that the Governor's barge was arrived with the
Major of the place, Mr. Gilmar, and an officer of the
regiment of Louisiana, and that these gentlemen desired
to speak with me. Being introduced into my apartment,
the Major told me that he came by order of the Governor,
to congratulate me on my arrival, and offer me his barge.
After returning him my thanks, I observed that Adjutant-
General Warin was about to wait on the Governor in
the course of the morning, to remit to him the packets
with which I was entrusted, and to inform him that I
intended myself the honor of paying him my respects on
the following day. The Major replied, that the Go-
vernor requested I would repair to the town immediately.
I observed to him, that the disorder in my dress*
absolutely required that I should make some changes:
he then told me, that his instructions were to bring me
as I was. I asked him if it was an order which he
* I was in the same dress with which I had travelled among the woods
for ten months.
Il6 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
signified to me; he told me, yes. I instantly obeyed,
in order to prevent the Major from offering any greater
insult to my country. Adjutant-General Warin having
expressed to me his desire to remain in my boat to
take care of the crew, received the same order as myself
to enter the Governor's barge, leaving all my effects at
the mercy of the rowers. A quarter of an hour after we
had embarked, we perceived on the dike a troop of fifty
dragoons, who were directing their course towards
Mr. Bore's habitation. The Major having perceived
them, made a signal with his cane to order them back,
which they appeared- perfectly to comprehend. I asked
him what this troop meant. He replied, that it was
the ordinary patrole. When we came to within four
hundred yards of the bank which fronts the Governor's
house, an officer of the place made a signal to the Major,
which led him to exclaim: (< Ah, it is singular; they
are making me signals to go to the fort." I asked him
if that was the apartment which the Governor destined
for the officers of the French republic, before they had
had [the honor of being presented to him. He told me,
that he was obliged to follow his orders; and on this
our conversation ended.
On our landing we were conducted, amidst a crowd
of people, to Fort St. Charles, and put into the officer's
OF NORTH AMERICA. liy
guard -room; in which was placed the same officer
who escorted us in the barge. Two grenadiers were
stationed as centinels at the door with; drawn sabres ;
one also was posted at the window; two other grenadiers,
with fixed bayonets, for greater security were placed on
the outside of the door, and another on the parapet
opposite the window. It is to be observed, that during
the night the garrison of the fort was doubled, as well
as the patroles, both horse and foot.
After these sage dispositions, Adjutant-General Warm
was ordered to repair to the Governor's house, and was
conducted by the Major and Adjutant of the place. The
Governor received him very politely, and having begged
him to sit down in his cabinet, in the presence of the
Auditor of war, the Interpreter-General, and Secretary of
government, he asked him if he were disposed to answer
the different questions which he was obliged to ask him
relative to the expedition which he had undertaken with
General Collot, etc.
Adjutant-General Warin having replied in the affirma-
tive, and sworn to declare the truth, he underwent a
kind of examination; after which he was conducted,
by order of the Governor, to an inn, where he was
guarded by a corporal and two soldiers, with fixed
Il8 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
bayonets, who passed the night with him, though he
was much indisposed.
At one in the afternoon, the Major and Adjutant entered
the guard-room: I asked them if they had received in
writing the order for my arrest; they answered me in
the affirmative. I requested them to give me a copy of
it, which they refused. I then begged leave to write
a note to the Governor; but the officer of the guard,
Mr. Donois, told me very politely, that this was impos-
sible; that Adjutant Melzingue had given orders that I
should have neither pen, nor ink, nor even a pencil,
and that every thing, even the bread,* which entered
the guard-room should be examined ; in short, nothing
was wanting but chains.
About four in the evening, the Major, Adjutant, Inter-
preter-General, and Under Secretary, came and deposited
in the guard-room my baggage, which was huddled toge-
ther, my trunks which were open, the boxes which
were broken, and put on the seals before me, without
making any inventory, or following the regulations ne-
cessary on such occasions.
* The Governor formally disavowed this order, and threw the odium
of it on Mr. Metzingue, who had acted thus from a refinement of malignity:
I should be happy to believe it.
OF NORTH AMERICA. HO
The Adjutant, after this ceremony, asked me for my
keys, in the name of the Governor. I told him, that
the whole of the effects contained in the boxes, as well
as the papers in my porte-feuille, belonged to the Republic;
that being only the depositary, I could give up my keys
to no one but the Governor, and upon receiving an
authentic discharge; by which he rendered himself solely
responsible for the consequences that might result from
the publicity given to my papers, which were equally
interesting the two allied nations.
The Adjutant, notwithstanding this declaration, had
the impertinence to take my bunch of keys from the
table ; I ordered him immediately to return them, adding,
that if he refused, he should learn from me that the
Piepublic was powerful enough to obtain his head from
his sovereign, if it thought that any offence committed
by him could be of sufficient consequence. The Adjutant
changed color, put back the keys, and withdrew.
At five the same evening, the Governor sent me word
by an officer, that were he not prevented by a head-ach,
he should have waited on me, but that the next morning
at eight he would repair to the fort.
At the hour appointed, the Governor, attended
by the Auditor of War, the Under Secretary, and
Interpreter-General, arrived. After the usual compliments
120 SURVEY Or THE WESTERN RIVERS
on both sides, the Governor inquired if I were disposed
to answer the questions which might he asked me. I
replied, that I should answer nothing till I had had a
previous and private conference with him, and until he
had read the letters which I had brought him from our
respective ministers. The Auditor withdrew with his
suite.
After half an hour's private conference, in which the
Governor read all his letters, and learned the motive of
my journey, which interested so nearly both nations, and
during which he seemed less concerned at the precipitation
with which he had acted in this affair, than anxious to
find the means to extricate himself, he told me, in order
to save appearances with the Auditor, that he should be
obliged to examine me, but the questions he should ask
would be insignificant and matters of mere form.
As soon as the Auditor returned, I underwent an exa-
mination, at the close of which the Governor offered me
a house in the town, where I should remain on my parole,
with a messenger. I accepted his proposition, and the
Governor very politely lent me his carriage to conduct
me thither.
Having returned next day to pay me a visit, the
Governor asked me if I preferred giving him, under the
promise of inviolable secrecy, communication of my
OP NORTH AMERICA. 121
papers, to going to the Havannah and wait till the two
courts should have decided with respect to this affair.
Having reflected on the inconveniences attending this last
alternative, on account of the delay which it would cause
to my return to Philadelphia, where I had to transact
affairs of importance to the republic, I did not hesitate to
communicate my papers; but on condition that the Go-
vernor should engage, by writing, to give no information
whatever respecting their contents to any person, and
that they should be all faithfully returned to me. The
Governor gave me his word, and sent me in consequence
the letter No. i, to which I answered by that of No. 2.*
I remained under arrest at New Orleans till the first
of November, during which time the governor and myself
held daily conferences relative to the interests both of
France and Spain. He assured me, that he had read
with the highest satisfaction my memorials, which agreed
perfectly with every thing that he had repeatedly said
and written to his court, since he had had the adminis-
tration of this province; he even asked me for certain
observations respecting the danger of opening the Missis-
sipi, which I gave him, on taking a receipt. The Governor
made no other answer, than that he was not on sum-
See Appendix.
VOL. II.
Q
122 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
ciently good terms with his minister to write to him;
but in violation of his most sacred engagements, losing
all respect for himself, for an allied power, for his own
government, he caused several of my manuscripts and
most precious charts to be copied, and among others that
of the Ohio.*
In consequence of the proposal which the governor
made me in his letter of the date of the twenty-eighth
October, to go to the Balise and wait for a vessel, and
thereby tranquillise the inhabitants, who were alarmed
by my presence, I went on board the king's galley,
accompanied by a captain of the regiment of Louisiana,
who landed me at the Balise, at the house of the master
pilot, situated in the midst of a morass, from which it
was impossible to go out, except in a canoe, without
danger of being swallowed up by the mud, full of insects
of every kind and other reptiles, which are the natural
produce of such situations. I remained here till the
twenty-second of December, when I embarked for Phi-
ladelphia, on board the Iphigenia brig.
The Governor, in his letter to the French Minister,
justified the conduct he had observed towards me by the
following considerations :
* Major Gilman, who copied them, gave me this information.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 123
First, On the silence of the minister, who had given
him no previous information of my arrival.
Secondly, The information he had received from
Philadelphia, that I was employed in a secret mission
which -ile ought to distrust.
Thirdly, The report made to him by a subaltern
officer, that I was making a survey of the province.
Fourthly, The alarm into which my presence had
thrown the inhabitants, especially after the reports which
had been spread by the American newspapers, that Lou-
isiana was about to become a French province.
Nothing can be more futile and contradictory than
such reasons: I need only have recourse to the Governor's
letters and conversation to refute them. When he said
that he was not informed of my arrival, he probably
forgot that in the month of June he received a letter from
Monsieur Jandanes, the Spanish minister at Philadelphia,
which gave him intelligence of my expedition, and which
he himself had made public: that two months after, not
seeing me arrive, he mentioned on the parade, that
probably the French officers who were travelling in the
west of America were disgusted and had gone back by
the Ohio. But supposing that my arrival had never been
announced, this was no reason for arresting and confining
me in a fortress. He must have been well persuaded that
Q 2
124 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
two officers would not travel through a foreign country,
without providing themselves with the necessary pass-
ports; and if he had any doubts, he ought to have made
himself sure. I am sorry that I can offer no justification
for the Governor's precipitation, which betrayed" a kind
of aversion for whatever bore the mark of the republic.
He says, indeed, that he had received different in-
telligence from Philadelphia, which recommended him
to be on his guard respecting nay journey; but if the
Governor had been better instructed respecting the po-
litical situation of the United States, he would have
known that there was a very violent struggle between
those who are called the federalists and anti-federalists;
that the first are the most determined enemies of the
French republic, and that it was natural, when informed
of my expedition, that they should employ, as they
did, every means to prevent its success. The Governor
was so convinced of this fact, that at the end of a private
conversation on this subject, he could not help telling
me in a fit of impatience, " I have been deceived, but
he who has committed me shall pay for the whole."
The Governor presents a very futile motive for his
conduct, in the assurance given him that I had made the
survey of Louisiana hostile to his government; since this
pretext has even less foundation than the two preceding.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 125
He examined all my papers,, as well as those of Adjutant
General Warm, and found in my manuscripts nothing bm
observations which were favorable to the interests of his
Catholic Majesty j in my draughts, a sketch of St. Lewis;
and in my charts, the American part of the Illinois, on
which only the right side of the Mississipi is traced.
I gave the Governor an explanation respecting the
plan of St. Lewis, conformable to what Mr. Zeno
Trudau, and Mr. Gayoso, Governor of the Natchez,
had sent him.*
* During my slay at St. Lewis, conversing with Mr. Zeno Trudau on
the importance of tins post, in case of a war wilh England, I noticed
to this officer, who was an active and intelligent person, the facility which
tins spot offered for the formation of an intrenched camp, by means of a
single sluice. Mr. Trudau, anxious to communicate to his government
whatever might be useful, requested me to give him the sketch on paper of
my idea, in order to send it to the governor. Mr. Warin executed it im-
mediately before Mr. Trudau, who requested me to convey it. When at
the Natchez, I conversed with General Gayoso on the defence of Louisiana,
and showed him a sketch of my plan respecting St. Lewis ; he thought it so
good, that he requested me to leave it wilh him : but as I was commissioned
to give it to the governor-general, I observed to him that it was better for
him to receive it from his hand than from mine. Mr. Gayoso wrote to the
governor concerning it, in a letter dated the i5th of October, the eve of my
departure, and of which the governor persisted in refusing to give me
communication.
126 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
To the map of the Illinois the Governor had- not the
slightest right; yet notwithstanding his promise to restore
me all my papers of every kind, he did not hesitate to
keep it. It in is vain for him to alledge that the right side
of the Mississipi is traced on it; he knows perfectly well
that it was only a single stroke taken from Hutchins's
chart, to show the hreadth of the river; but at least he
had no right to take from it any other part than that
belonging to Spain.
Did the Governor find likewise any part dependent on
the territory of his Catholic Majesty in the course of the
Ohio? or was he commissioned to hinder the French from
taking any knowledge of the United States? It seemed to
me astonishing that he should have been so scrupulous
and severe to the French republicans, with respect to
every thing that concerns Louisiana, whilst he was so
extremely favorable towards other strangers, and par-
ticularly the English; by granting to a house of this
nation, Messrs. Todd and Company, the exclusive fur
trade of Upper Louisiana, on the right of the Mississipi.
The Governor was no doubt ignorant that these persons
were Canada agents belonging to the great Northern
Company; that this Company was already in possession
of all the sources of the river that empty their waters
into the left of the Missouri; that this company had
OF NORTH AMERICA. 12™
gained over to its interests the greater part of the
Indian nations inhabiting the whole of this part of the
territory belonging to his Catholic Majesty, and thereby
depriving his subjects of this branch of industry, had
reduced them to want and misery.
With respect to the alarm which my presence excited,
as was represented by the Governor, I own that I can
scarcely credit it; especially when I recollect the mul-
tiplied marks of friendship and goodwill which I expe-
rienced during the time I spent in Louisiana, as well from
the inhabitants as from the Spanish officers, who, not
satisfied with treating us politely, gave me letters for
their friends and relations at New Orleans, which
letters I gave to the Governor, to the amount of forty.
If he will have the goodness to produce them, his
government and mine may easily judge the kind of
inquietude which I occasioned. I every where met with
persons who were attached to their ancient country,
without ceasing, however, to entertain the most respectful
sentiments for the government under which they lived.
The result of my expedition was so far from causing
any alarm, my mission wore a character of wisdom and
prudence so evident, and my labors were so favorable to
the interests of the court of Spain, that the Governor was
the first to suggest the means of putting my person and
]28 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
my papers out of reach of the common enemy, by pro-
posing to me a passport under a feigned name, and in
causing the secret machinery to be made in which to
conceal my papers.
I shall finish this account by rendering that justice to
the Governor which he deserves ; excepting my detention,
he treated me with all the kindness and attention possible.
I should be happy in thinking that he was deceived,
and I willingly forgive him the vexations he made me
undergo at first, in favor of the civilities with which he
aflerwards treated me. Every man is liable to error, and
particularly those who govern; for since it is impossible
for them to see every thing with their own eyes, they are
obliged to trust to those who surround them, and are often
deceived.
OF NORTH AMERICA.
129
CHAPTER XXIV.
Continuation of the description of the Mississipi. — Details res-
pecting the sources of this river.— Nature of the lands on
the western side. — Periodical inundations.. — Its navigation. —
Navigation of the Gulf of Mexico.— Winds which commonly ;
prevail in these countries. — Recapitulation.
1 he sources of the Mississipi, according to the observations
made by Mackenzie, are in the forty-seventh degree of
northern latitude, one hundred and one longitude west
of London, and about two degrees below the Lake of
the Woods: they rise in a vast morass formed by a
number of small lakes, the chief of which are called White
Bear Lake and the Lake of the Marshes. The first, which
is the most northerly from Upper Louisiana, is also the
most considerable.
VOL. II. n
lJO SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
The direction of the Mississipi from its mouths to a
small river, called Elk River, situated a little below that
of Chepaway, is north and south j but at this point it
makes a bend and runs north-west, parallel with the
Missouri, from which it is separated by a space of an
hundred or an hundred and twenty miles.
The Mississipi from its sources to St. Anthony's fall is
only a large rivulet ; but immediately after receiving the
river St. Peter, it begins to be navigable, and takes a
majestic course, which it maintains till it reaches the Gulf
of Mexico, without any interruption from cataracts.
From St. Anthony's fall to the Missouri its current is
gentle, and its waters always limpid.
In the whole of this space, which may be reckoned at
a thousand and fifty miles, the Mississipi receives, among
other rivers remarkable for the facility of their navigation
for commerce, the Cold River, those of St. Peter, St. Croix,
Chepaway, Ouisoousin, Moins, and that of the Illinois.
Cold River flows from the east, and is separated only
by a very small portage from one of the sources of the
river St. Lewis, which throws its waters into Western
Bay, making part of Lake Superior.
The river St. Peter comes from the north-west, and
takes its rise near the river Asseniboine, which flows into
the Lake Winnipick. It is by this river that the English
OP NORTH AMERICA. l3l
at Michillimackinac communicate with the Indian nations
on the Upper Missouri, and particularly the Sioux.
The river St. Croix runs from the east, and is separated
only by a portage nine miles from the river Goddard,
which throws its waters into Lake Superior. The English
going from Canada usually descend this river to reach
that of St. Peter.
The river Chepaway comes from the west; its most
northerly branch communicates by a small portage with
Copper Mine River, which falls into Lake Superior. This
river is but little frequented on account of the falls.
The river Ouiscousin flows also from the east, and
is separated only by a morass of three miles, navigable
even in high waters, from Fox River, which falls into
Green Bay, forming part of Lake Michigan. The English
take this road to reach Moins River.
This river is, next to that of St. Peter's, on the western
side of the Mississipi, the most frequented by the English
in their expeditions among the nations which dwell on
the left side of the Lower Missouri. Its sources commu-
nicate with the Great River, the waters of which fall
into the Missouri.
The most northerly branch of the river of the Illinois,
called River of the Plains, is separated by a very small
portage only from the river Chikago, which falls into the
R 2
1^2 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
lake Michigan. This is the great communication between
Detroit and the Mississipi.
Thus all the great rivers of the Upper Mississipi,* from
St. Anthony's Falls to the Missouri, coming from the east,
communicate with lake Superior and lake Michigan, and
those flowing from the west with lake Winnipick and the
waters of the Missouri.
At the sources of the Mississipi the nature of the
country is a mixture of lakes and land drenched in water,
which extends below the Lake of the Marsh. These lands
are covered with long grass and underwood, and very
rarely with trees. But from Marshy River to the mouths
of the Mississipi, three classes of lands may be perfectly
distinguished. The first, which includes those lying from
Marshy River to the Missouri, forms an undulating
country, covered with the finest woods and with natural
meadows of vast extent, some of which exceed an hundred
miles.
The quality of the land is superior to any hitherto
known in North America, especially on the elevated
plain which separates the waters of the Mississipi from
those of the Missouri.f
* By Upper Mississipi is understood the space from its springs to th«
Missouri.
-J- See the map of Upper Louisiana*
OF NORTH AMERICA. 253
The second class stretches from the Missouri to the
heights of Taiou Wapeti, near Cape Girardot. This is
a broken country full of heights abounding in minerals ;
but on the other side of these heights the country is less
hilly, and the soil richer and better watered.
The third class extends from the heights of Taiou
Wapeti to New Orleans. This range of country is low,
aud often swampy for a greater or less space, in proportion
to its distance from those heights. Towards the south-
west these lands are all productive, and covered with great
bamboos or cypress, to the distance of twenty-five or
thirty miles from the river, where they begin to rise
gradually into fine woods or natural meadows, equal in
fertility to those which we have described in speaking of
the Missouri; particularly on the river St. Francis, the
White River, the Arkansas, the Red River, and the river
of Wachita.
These lands, from the forty-seventh to the thirty-third
degree, are fitted to receive the same cultivation as that
of our northern departments ; and from the thirty-third
to the thirty-first, as that of our southern departments;
from this degree to the mouths of the river, that is, to
the twenty-ninth degree, the productions may be the
same as those of our colonies.*
* See the chapter on agriculture.
1 54 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
The river begins to rise towards the end of December,
and overflows in February, March, and April; in May
and June it sinks to the level of its banks, and falls back
into its bed ; on the first days of July it begins to decrease,
and continues to the end of August, which is the season
when its waters are at the lowest,
In speaking of this river I have just observed, that its
waters fall back into their bed, which places me in con-
tradiction with several writers, some even academicians,
who, like professional travellers, think they render them-
selves interesting in proportion to the extraordinary things
they pretend to have seen, or the dangers they have
incurred. Hence those gigantic descriptions and mar-
vellous relations, exaggerated and fabulous, by which the
reader is intimidated or deceived. In the list of these
errors, is the assertion that the waters of the Mississipi,
when once they have overflowed its banks, never return
to their bed. The following circumstances have given
rise to this false report.
It has been seen in the course of this expedition, that
after having passed the heights of Tonicas, both sides of
the Mississipi are only one vast alluvion, traversed by
different great channels or mouths of the river. In the
whole of this part, from New Orleans to Natchez, where
OF NORTH AMERICA. l35
the country is more elevated, the waters which have
gone out of their bed do not return, because the land on
each side being lower than the banks of the river, and
inclining to the east and west, their waters finding other
channels, fall westward into the Bay of St. Bernard, and
on the east into the lakes Pontchartrain and Maurepas.
But from the Natchez to the Missouri, and even higher,
where the river ceases to be without banks and expands
into sheets, the waters which flow beyond their limits
return again; because in ascending the river the country
rises on each side, and the two chains of heights which
we have described approach nearer the banks. The
waters which find, on the contrary, a ground, the plane
of which is inclined towards the Mississipi, are naturally
thrown back into its bed, either by the rivers which flow
into the Mississipi, or by the number of large defiles and
creeks on each side: the whole of this volume of water
discharges itself into the Gulf of Mexico, which is their
common reservoir. These waters, therefore, are not lost
in the land, and remain on them no more in the lower
than in the upper part of the Mississipi, as has been so
confidently asserted: in this movement of the waters,
there is no extraordinary phenomenon ; all is simple, as
every thing which proceeds from the hand of nature.
l56 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
The difficulties attending the navigation of the Mis-
sissipi have scarcely been better explained: these are great
without doubt, but I am convinced that they have nothing
more extraordinary than was common to great rivers in
Europe before this portion of the world was inhabited ;
and the greater part of the accidents which have
hitherto taken place, ought only to be attributed to
ignorance or carelessness, and still more to avarice.
The seasons in which the greatest impediments to the
navigation of the Mississipi occur, are those of its rise
or fall j consequently in December, January, February,
and in July and August; because in those seasons its
current is much more rapid, and carries down a great
quantity of drift-wood: but when its waters are in a
kind of equilibrium, its current is very slow, and the
greatest part of this wood floats down to the gulf, where
it remains.
I had an opportunity of ascertaining the truth of these
observations. The greater part of my boatmen having
been attacked with the dysentery at Cape Girardot, and
particularly the pilot, I was obliged to steer the boat my-
self as far as the Natchez, which is a distance of twelve
hundred miles. I found, therefore, by experience, that
the dangers and accidents so much talked of, are with
OP NORTH AMERICA. 13J
a little prudence, much attention, and a few general rules,
reduced to nothing.
I shall here cite a few of these rules, in following
which every traveller may place himself out of the reach
of the most common accidents.
First, The most essential of all in descending the river
is to take care at every bend to follow the hollow part,
and avoid carefully the points as well as the channels
formed by the islands; it is in these places that sand-banks
and drift-wood accumulate. In the concave parts, the
current is stronger, and does not suffer the floating wood
to settle, and there is also a much greater depth of water.
Secondly, When the river, on the contrary, runs in
a straight line, and its bed is intercepted by islands,
which frequently happens , if doubtful what channel
ought to be taken, you must cease to row or steer a mile
before you reach the island, and leave the boat to the
current, which infallibly carries it into its proper course.
Multiplied experiments convinced me of this fact.
Thirdly, What is most dangerous and has occasioned
the loss of so many boats, especially of those with which
the Americans navigate the Ohio and the Mississipi to
New Orleans, are the Sawyers, called by the Canadians
Chicots. These are great trees, of which the roots are
fixed to the bed of the river, or to other trees, while the
VOL. II. s
l38 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
higher branches rise above the water, and are beaten by
the stream. There is nothing more easy than to avoid
these trees ; with a little attention they may be always
seen at a considerable distance , either by their appear-
ance above water, or by the breakers which they form
when under water.. If the stream, in running from the
left to the right, should drive upon the chicot, care must
be taken not to persist in passing above, but, on the con-
trary, to yield to the current, and pass below, that is,
on the right, leaving the chicot on the left. By taking
such precautions, these obstacles may always be avoided :
the Americans, however, not only neglect to steer their
boats in these long voyages, but their excessive economy
leads them to continue their route during the night as
well as the day, by which means a great number are lost :
from these circumstances, the navigation of this river
is reckoned dangerous, although it is very seldom that
any such accidents happen to boats manned by Canadians.
With respect to ascending the Mississipi, the most
• favorable season, as we have already observed, is when
the river is very high or quite low. In the first case, as
there is abundance of water in every part, and the boat
is not driven by the stream, none of the inconveniences
are to be apprehended which are met with in descending
the river. In the second case, the inverse direction of
OP NORTH AMERICA. l3g
that which we have pointed out in descending ought to
he followed; the concave parts must here be avoided by
keeping close to the points, because on this side the stream
is less rapid, and these points sometimes offer convenient
banks four or five miles in extent, where the towing line
may be used.
We have already remarked, that within these twenty
years these impediments have very perceptibly diminished.
These changes have justly been attributed to the immense
numbers which since the peace resort to the Ohio and
the parts adjacent, both sides of which are cleared and
peopled with very great rapidity.
There is no doubt, therefore, that in proportion as all
the great rivers tributary *to the Mississipi, especially the
Missouri, become inhabited, a part of these obstacles will
diminish; because it is the vast forests which attract the
clouds, and keep up the constant humidity that feeds
the small rivulets. It has been remarked, that beyond the
Alleganies a much greater quantity of rain falls, one year
with another, than on this side of the mountains, where
vast plains have been cleared and cultivated. When the
same circumstance shall take place with respect to the
Western States, the rains will be less frequent, and the
greater part of the rivulets will be dried up; the rivers
S 2
l4o SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
thus furnishing less water to the Mississipi, its inundations
will diminish progressively.
By means of the clearings, the hanks of the rivers
being no longer covered with trees, these immense quan-
tities of drift-wood will disappear, and the Mississipi, the
Ohio, and the Missouri will become as free from embar-
rassments as Hudson's River, the Delaware, and the
Potomac, which certainly presented the same inconve-
niences when visited for the first time by civilised men.
Before we leave this subject, we shall make a few
observations respecting the navigation of the Gulf of
Mexico j the difficulties and dangers of which have been
also represented as one of the great inconveniences which
would necessarily form an obstacle to the prosperity of
this part of the continent. This opinion has been enter-
tained by men whose talents and public character so justly
command respect and admiration j by Mr. Jefferson, for
instance, in his work on Virginia.
What renders the navigation of the gulf of Mexico
difficult and dangerous, are the currents; but it is proper
to state in what part of the gulf they are really dangerous.
Below the twenty-seventh degree, the currents flow
into the gulf; above this latitude, they flow out. The
further we penetrate into the gulf, after passing the
OF NORTH AMERICA. l4l
twenty-seventh degree, the greater variation is found
in the direction of the currents, a variation sometimes
every twenty-four hours. In this part, the navigation is
very dangerous, because no practice can establish certain
rules. This is so true, that when a vessel, coming from
the bottom of the gulf, has passed the twenty-seventh
degree, the seaman regards his voyage as completed, and
considers himself as out of all danger.
Above the twenty-seventh degree, as I have just
observed, the currents flow outwards, but with this
difference, that they never vary. At the twenty-ninth
degree, near the mouths of the Mississipi, the currents
run from east to west; that is, the Avatcrs of the rivers
divide, half in the bay St. Bernard, and the other half
in Pensacola, but this lasts only during the lime of the
soundings, after which the currents run straight upon the
channel of Bahama.
But as vessels never go out from the river except with
steady winds, and even if they should be becalmed, good
anchorage is every where found, there is not the slightest
danger of being thrown either on Pensacola or into the
bay of St. Bernard; so that no accidents take place but
below the twenty-seventh degree.
With respect to the winds that prevail in the valley
the Mississipi, the observations which we made day by
l42 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
day agree with the information we received from the most
experienced pilots.
The winds on the Ohio are in general variable; but
it is, however, to he observed, that they blow more
commonly from the south than the north, and very rarely
from the north-east.
The south-easterly winds are very common during
the summer, and always bring rain or thick fogs.
The south-west is very clear and hot ; the wind from
the south brings hurricanes.
In Upper Louisiana, towards the Illinois, and above,
the westerly winds produce storms, -which follow the
chain of heights that border the river and run towards
the south-south-west.
The winds on the Missouri blow eleven months in
the year from the north-west, and are most powerful in
the vicinity of the Yellow mountains. Towards noon, they
sometimes rush with such violence that the navigator is
obliged to land ; the wind, however, falls as the sun
goes down.
In Lower Louisiana, below the thirty-third degree,
from the month of November to that of March, the
north-north-west and north-east winds prevail. Some-
times the winds turn to the south, but never more
than for twenty-four hours, when they are always fol-
OF NORTH AMERICA. l43
lowed by rain; they afterwards constantly return to the
north-west.
April, May, and June, are remarkable for calms and
great droughts. July, August, and September, are, as in
the islands, the season of winds, which blow from every
point of the compass; the winds, except at this period,
blow always from the south-west.
It is in August that hurricanes take place; they com-
monly begin in the north-north-east, blow at first with
violence for a few hours, after which there is a dead
calm which lasts a few minutes; the winds then pass
to the south-south-west, rage with fury, and drive the
water upon the land more than six feet above its banks;
but these hurricanes are never felt inland, I mean those
of this direction, beyond the thirtieth degree. When
these blasts are accompanied with thunder, there is nothing
to fear from the hurricane.
The natural monuments of Upper and Lower Lou-
isiana arc evidences of the antiquity of these countries;
Lower Louisiana, from the immense quantity of earthy
depots which have been carried down by the Mississipi;
Upper Louisiana, from the arrangement of the layers of
earth, the traces of vegetables and animals found at
different depths, the high tracks of meadow ground along
l44 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
the elevated plains which separate Louisiana from New
Mexico, where are still seen scattered rocks which seem
to he the wrecks, or rather the most elevated points, of
a chain of mountains" which exist no longer, hecause the
waters have covered them again with their mud.
With respect to the fictitious monuments of which
certain travellers have given such magnificent descriptions,
the most numerous are the mounds of different heights,
which have served as fortresses to the Indian nations,
and which are called Mammelles. These mounds are
scattered in all directions j and in digging are found stone
hatchets, tomahawks, and earthen vessels, some of which
are still whole. Tombs, consisting of stones heaped
together, are sometimes met with; and it is said, that at
no great distance from fort St. Charles, in the country of
the Illinois, there are others of hewn stone ; and that in
the same place is a beautiful grotto in a rock. In other
places, we were assured that there are traces of buildings
of hewn stone of an enormous size; but we saw nothing
of this kind, nor any of those characters which have been
mentioned, and which, it is said, have no resemblance
with any writing hitherto known.
What is called Palissa is the figure of a great imaginary
animal, which the Indians have rudely depictured in red,
OP NORTH AMERICA. l45
iii the slope of a great rock on the eastern side of the
Mississipi, near the river of the Illinois. The subter-
raneous grottos, of which travellers have recounted so
many extraordinary things, are caverns hollowed by the
waters, and in which strong concretions have been formed.
The mud that is deposited in these cavities receives the
marks of the feet of animals, which, remaining in this
layer, petrify and become homogeneous with the rock.
These grottos are very numerous. In the river of the
Arkansas is a great rock, called the Sugar Loaf, around
the base of which are several of those cavities. There
are others on the banks of the rivers, into which canoes
can enter. Some of these caverns, it is said, are so deep,
that it requires an hour's walking to reach the end; others
pierce even the mountains. It has been asserted that there
are rocks cut perpendicularly, with crannies in the top ;
but this is a fable : for these rocks have been formed by
the currents of water, the cuttings have been made by
the falling down of the earth, and those crannies are
only the protruding parts which the waters could not
reach.
I shall not close these observations like the greater part
of travellers, whose presumption leads them to believe
that they have seen, done, and said every thing. I will
l46 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
frankly acknowledge, on the contrary, that this work is
very incomplete, because the countries which we had
traversed were immense j that to examine them in detail
required as many years as we employed months, and as
much facility as we found obstacles.
But we may be permitted to observe, notwithstanding
the multiplied imperfections of this work, that if the
critical period in which we undertook it be considered ;
if we reflect that we had to struggle against the jealousy
and hatred of the federalists and English ; to excite no
uneasiness in the Spanish government, which the beha-
viour of a few vagabonds that had preceded us in the
same route, but with perfidious views, had too well
justified; if it be recollected that we were watched and
surrounded by spies and assassins, and even arrested ; we
may venture to hope that this series of observations will
merit some attention, especially if, as we trust, it should
be an incitement in others to complete it. It was neces-
sary, also, to brave other perils : but a true Frenchman is
unacquainted with danger when any service is to be
rendered his country.
As a supplement to the information we have gathered
respecting these countries, we shall treat in general of
its productions, woods, commerce, policy, limits, as well
OP NORTH AMERICA. l4y
as the frontiers which we presume ought one day to serve
as a barrier between the Atlantic and Western States;
these are important objects, and for the better infor-
mation of the reader we have classed them in the fol-
lowing chapters.
{ i«9 )
CHAPTER XXV.
Productions of Louisiana. — Timber. — Errors in Europe respecting
the timber in the United States. — State of Louisiana and the
Floridas. — Inferior quality of the woods in the north.
— The woods of the west preferable. — Timber for building. —
Green oak. — IVhite and black oak. — Cedars. — Cypress. — Pines.
— Elms. — Other sorts of wood. — Cayenne wood. — Other spon-
taneous productions of Louisiana.
As the productions of the earth are the first, we might
even say, the only elements of commerce, it is with these
that I shall begin this chapter.
It is well known that the forests of the Baltic, which
for so long a time supplied the whole marine of Europe,
are beginning to be exhausted ; that this state of consump-
tion will naturally increase the price of timber; and
l5o ^ SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
that England, in order to obtain what she wants, has
considerable advantages over the rest of the maritime
powers.
It is generally believed in Europe that the continent
of America, and by the continent is understood the United
States, can, by means of its vast forests, supply the marine
of Europe with timber, when it can no longer be found
in the forests of the north. The enormous difference
between the population of the United States and the
extent of their territory, is no doubt the foundation of
this opinion.
But the consumption of wood is immense in the United
States; the new clearings in which the wood is almost
always burnt; the construction of American vessels, which
consumes so much the more, as these vessels last a much
shorter time than those of Europe ; their buildings ;
the fences which inclose fields from one end of the con-
tinent to the other; in short, the waste of every kind
made by an improvident people, have destroyed such a
quantity of wood, that scarcely any is to be found within
an hundred miles of the sea, or near navigable rivers.
Fire w°°d is dearer in the towns of America than in those
of Europe. Excepting in the forests of South Carolina and
Georgia, the timber, independently of its doubtful quality
for the construction of vessels, is not of sufficient growth
OP NORTH AMERICA. l5l
for great ships; in Georgia even, the builders for the
United States found with difficulty green oak of sufficient
size to build the six frigates which Congress had decreed
three years before; in short, the little that had escaped
the general devastation has lately been purchased by the
federal government. These facts, known by all those
who are acquainted with the United States, are convincing
proofs that the hope entertained in Europe of finding
great resources here for its naval constructions is alto-
gether erroneous.
But the resources which are no longer to be found in
the territory of the United States, are met with in abun-
dance in the forests of Louisiana and the Floridas. The
great fertility of the soil produces timber of the finest
kinds and the largest dimensions; and as these immense
countries are almost all uninhabited, and as Spain has
hitherto extracted but little timber, we may consider the
forests as untouched, or at least as offering resources which
will not be exhausted for a long series of years.
There are, however, in North America and towards
Hudson's Bay, some forests which no doubt are yet un-
touched : but although they may furnish a certain portion
of wood fit for building, it is only in very small quanti-
ties. It has generally been observed, that, in the northern
l5a SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
latitudes, the forests are so thickly peopled with trees as
to hinder the circulation of the air and keep the ground
in a continual state of humidity, which prevents the trees
from rising beyond a certain height, or of keeping such
under as injure their growth. Their humidity also renders
the sap watery and easy of fermentation, on which account
the timber is very liable to rottenness.
This is not the case in the more southerly latitudes, such
as the banks of the Missouri, the Arkansas, St. Francis, the
Osages, Yazoo, Ibberville, the Red River, the Washites,
the Mobile, and throughout the whole country to the
west of the Mississipi.
The ground there imbibes the waters which it receives,
without retaining them on its surface, as in the north.
Fed by a more substantial sap, the trees rise with force
and quickness sufficient to disengage themselves from
such as would hinder their growth ; the air circulates
around them, and aids their vegetation, their force, and
their beauty. These forests are less peopled with trees;
but those which grow there are fine, tall, straight, and
of proper dimensions. Their sap is oily, which renders
their fibres hard and compact, and preserves them from
the rottenness so common in the forests of the north.
Under these lofty trees the ground is often covered with
OF NORTH AMERICA. l53
rich and thick herbage. Such in general are the forests
of these countries, the immense extent of which may,
however, give room to some exceptions.
The most valuable wood for naval constructions which
grows in the Floridas and in Louisiana, is the green oak,
the white and black oak, the red cedar, the pine and elm.
The green oak grows in East Florida, on the Mobile,
the Washites, the Red River, and the Yazoo, on the
Attacapas, and in the vicinity of New Orleans, where it
is in great abundance ; but this tree is not found above the
thirty-first degree, or at least the small number beyond
this latitude are stunted and of bad growth.
The quality of the green oak, its solidity and duration,
are generally known. The vessels which are constructed
with this wood, are of long duration. A remarkable
and authentic instance will confirm the opinion which
has been formed respecting the firmness of this timber.
When the English in the last war were desirous of
fortifying Pensacola, they were obliged to destroy a small
fort built of green oak, erected in 1680 by the French,
at the time of their first settlement. They found the
wood as sound and untouched in all its parts, as if it had
been cut the preceding day, and the whole without any
waste was employed in forming the new intrenchment.
VOL. II. IT
l54 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
This fact was related by an English engineer charged with
the construction of that work.
A piece of green oak, thirty feet long and thirty-four
inches square, costs the King of Spain four livres the foot,
delivered at New Orleans. Mr. Serile, master builder in
the service of Spain, a man of considerable talents and
reputation in his line of business, attributes this dearness
to the want of hands ; he asserts that he could reduce this
price a third, if he could dispose of a few sailors to make
trains.
The white and black oak grow throughout the whole
continent of Upper Louisiana j these are in several parts
thinly planted and lofty.
The custom of the Indian hunters of setting fire in
the spring to the leaves which have fallen in the winter,
and to the shoots, contributes, with the nature of the soil,
to the insulated growth of the trees ; and in those parts
which are burnt, the trees are much more distant from each
other. There are also vast natural meadows in which
there are no trees, and which are covered with a long,
thick, and rich herbage. This almost total absence of trees,
in parts so extensive and in a soil so rich, can be attributed
only to the fires made by the Indians, to which they often
can neither give the direction nor the limits they wish ;
OF NORTH AMERICA. 55 1
and who, indeed, embarras themselves very little
respecting the greater or less extent of ground which is
consumed. But it results from these frequent glades in
the midst of these forests, that the trees which border
them being more exposed, receive from the impulsion of
the wind a curved form, which renders them still more
fit for that part in the construction of vessels for which
they are employed.
Mr. Serile asserts, that these kinds of oaks are pre-
ferable to those of Europe for ribs, knees, and curbs.
The cedar grows on the banks of the Missouri and the
rivers Plate and Arkansas. It is of a reddish marble color,
and almost always of fine dimensions ; the quality of its
timber is good, though inferior to that of Cuba, being
more brittle.
The cypress grows on both sides the Mississipi, from
its mouth to the river Arkansas, and in all the marshy
grounds of these latitudes. This tree rises above seventy
feet on a diameter of eighteen or twenty-four inches; its
trunk is straight and without knots. The Spaniards
use them for masts ; they are less serviceable for yards,
because as these terminate almost in a point, the heart of
the tree, more porous, is exposed, and the piece is liable
to break at its end. The cypress contains a great quantity
U 2
l56 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
of soft substance between the bark and the wood, but
as the trees are large, there still remains, after taking
away the imperfect part, a thickness of good wood greater
than the proportions requisite for the use in which it is
employed.* The cypress plank, ten feet long, a foot wide,
and an inch in thickness, sells at New Orleans only
for twenty-four or twenty-five sous tournois.
The pine grows very generally through the whole of
Louisiana; those on the Red River, the White River,
and the Arkansas are of the greatest height, straight, and
without knots : they have the same elasticity as those of
Riga, only they are more heavy and less liable to break
than the cypress, and can be more easily repaired; the
cypress, however, lasts longer than the pine.
The pine in the Illinois and in the Missouri is less
tall, more knotty, and the wood is drier than those above-
mentioned. The price of a pine, coming from the Red
River, the White River, and the Arkansas, and delivered
at New Orleans, is a piastre the foot; hitherto none have
been extracted from the Illinois for the Spanish marine.
The elm grows also in almost every part of Louisiana:
* The principal defect of the cypress is being too heavy ; the Spaniards
employ it only in the construction of their first-rate vessels.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 167
its wood is used for pullies, pumps, carriages for cannon,
and every kind of wheelwright's work ; but that which
grows on heights and in light grounds is the best.
Nearly the same kinds of wood are without doubt
found in every part of the United States bordering on the
Mississipi, as in the Spanish possessions on the same river ;
but these parts, from their population and the clearings
which are made, are in every respect superior to those of
Spain, and consequently are exposed to the same degra-
dation as the other parts of the States nearer the sea.
Besides, if ever this timber should become useful for the
marine belonging to the power which should have pos-
session of New Orleans, it cannot be obtained without
purchase ; and whether it be employed by this marine,
or any other in Europe, it can have no other outlet than
the Mississipi, which is the common receptacle, together
with the Ohio, of all the rivers by which this wood can
be transported.
Independently of this ship timber, which is the most
precious and essential for a great naval power, Louisiana
produces an immense quantity of other kinds of wood,
which though not of so great a value as the last, are not
less useful and important. Of this secondary class are live
or six different kinds of walnut-trees, the black and white
mulberry, the apple-tree, pear, plumb, cherry-tree, the
l58 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
ash, the willow of different kinds, the thorn, poplar,
beech, sassafras, the acacia of various sorts, the plane,
laurel, fir, fig-tree, pomegranate, peach, chesnut, orange,
lemon, olive-tree, and a variety of others which it would
take too long to enumerate. Trees of an unknown species
are every day discovered in the territory of the United
States ; and it cannot be doubted that the forests of Loui-
siana, much better wooded and more extensive, contain a
considerable number, which will be discovered in propor-
tion as they are explored, and which will furnish new
resources both for the wants and arts of life.
But without pretending to indulge in any fancied spe-
culations with respect to the time when such discoveries
shall take place, the wood already known in Louisiana,
of which a part has already been enumerated, offers
immense and necessary resources for the annual consump-
tion of the western colonies. In this province may be
found every kind of timber fit for building, wood for the
covering of houses, staves, and all kinds of resins : these
various objects, so necessary for the colonies, are of a
quality infinitely superior to those which the United States
can furnish ; the conveyance is more quick and certain ;
and free of those expenses which must always be expected
from the charges of foreign merchants.
OF NORTH AMERICA. l5o,
Much has been said of the wood of Cayenne ; if it be
true that this country produces timber fit for the con-
struction of vessels, it must be in small quantities, and
would require much attention in the choice. Professional
men who are acquainted with the forests in the regions of
the torrid zone, know that a great part of the wood which
is there produced is generally of a weak, lax fibre, and
what is called soft, that is, which a few weeks after
the trees are felled, crumble into a kind of rotten dust,
while those of the incorruptible species are found too
heavy, and not sufficiently flexible.
The other spontaneous productions of Louisiana are
numberless and of every kind. Nature seems as prodigal
to the west of the Mississipi as she is sterile from the
Atlantic to the east of this river. In Upper Louisiana
are found greystone, millstone, silex, marbles, gypsum,
pyrites, and pummice stone. In the country from the
river St. Peter to the Natchez are salt springs, lead and
iron mines, coal, and slate quarries in abundance. In the
higher parts of the Osages and the Arkansas, are salt rocks
of the finest crystallization. It is stated as a fact, that in
the mountains known by the name of the Yellow Moun-
tains, forming the separation of the waters of the Mississipi
and the Southern Ocean, there are mines both of tin
and copper.
l6o SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
If in these countries, hitherto so little frequented, va-
luable fossils are found in so great an abundance, there can
be no doubt but that a much greater quantity will be
discovered when the necessary means for making such
researches shall be put into execution.
OF NORTH AMERICA. i6l
CHAPTER XXVI.
Of the productions arising from cultivation. — Disproportion of
territory with population. — Agriculture in a languishing state.
— Exportation. — Cultivation of indigenous productions. — Fruit
trees. — Vine. — Cultivation in Lower Louisiana. — Observations.
'—Indigo abandoned. — Inferior quality of cotton. — Sugar canes.
— Detail of a sugar plantation. — Canes of Otaheite preferable
to those of ' Batavia. — Success of Mr. Bore. — Other productions.
— Low price of cattle.
VV herever population is in disproportion with the
lands which remain uncultivated, the cultivation must
necessarily be limited and imperfect. This is evident from
the state of Upper Louisiana, the soil of which, in general
good and new, produces abundantly with the slightest
labor.
VOL. II. x
162 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
Indolence, or rather that love of repose which is natural
to men living in hot climates, does not suffer the inhabitants
of Upper Louisiana to reap from their lands all the ad-
vantages which commonly result from industry stimulated
by interest. The measure of their toil is that of their
wants, which when limited to what is necessary are
soon satisfied : every kind of cultivation extending be-
yond this point, would appear to them so much the more
useless, as the objects of exchange are few in number,
and because commerce, which produces new wants, and
gives fresh springs to industry, is almost extinct in Upper
Louisiana. Agriculture has also other obstacles to contend
with: the rivers which traverse these countries abound in
fish j the forests are stocked with game, and afford the
inhabitants the easiest means of supplying their wants ;
besides a great number trade with the Indians, and the
greater part among them, fond of roving, undertake very
distant expeditions.
,. Although the state of agriculture be not very flourish-
ing, more, however, is produced than is necessary for
the consumption of the inhabitants. Louisiana exported
in the year 1796 three thousand five hundred barrels of
flour, at four piastres the hundred weight, and twenty-one
thousand measures of maize, from the territory of Saint
Lewis: two thousand nine hundred barrels of flour at the
OF NORTH AMERICA. lG3
same price, and thirteen thousand measures of maize from
St. Genevieve; seven thousand barrels of flour, and thirty-
five thousand measures of maize, from Anse a la Graisse.*
The Illinois territory belonging to the United States
furnished, in the same year, three thousand barrels of
flour and thirty thousand measures of maize. This flour
is indeed inferior to that of the United States, owing to
the imperfection of the corn mills.
It is also to be observed, that the Arkansas and the
Chawanons, two Indian nations, the first inhabiting the
banks of the river of that name, and the second the west
of the Mississipi, thirty leagues from Cape Girardot,
increase, by the produce of their cultivation, the expor-
tation of which I have just spoken.
In Upper Louisiana are also grown rye, oats, peas,
flax, hemp and potatoes. Though this last root comes
originally from Europe, wild potatoes are found through
the whole extent of the Illinois : these potatoes are
small, and of a sour taste ; but by cultivation they
become both larger and palatable.
Fruit trees are very abundant in Upper Louisiana;
in this country, originally inhabited by the French,
and which has continued to be so by their descendants,
* New Madrid.
x a
l64 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
the trees of Europe have heen planted, and cultivated
with care. Apples, pears, and nuts are good, and in so
great plenty, that quantities are sent to New Orleans, and
even to the Havannah.
This country produces naturally trees and plants
which may he perfected by cultivation. It is a rich soil,
and varies in its productions ; the riches which it con-
tains would readily unfold themselves to the researches of
human industry.
In this astonishing variety of production, the vine is
also to he numbered, with which the country is covered ;
but it is the wild vine, and few experiments have been
made to cultivate it with success. This plant appeared to
me altogether different from that which I saw in North
America: its stalk was not more than two feet and an
half or three feet in length; it grows most frequently in
rocky and stony places, and is found always in clumps,*
resembling, in its foliage and appearance, the vine of
Madeira or Champagne ; the grape is black, small, and
very sweet. There is no doubt but this vine would
increase both in size and quality by cultivation. AFrench-
* This vine is of the same kind as that we found on the Ohio, near
Cumberland River, and which we have mentioned in the course of this
work.
OF NORTH AMERICA. l65
man planted several cuttings in his garden ; in three
years time the fruit became much larger and more
abundant ; and probably his experiment would have
succeeded belter, if instead of letting them grow in
clumps, he had separated the stalks, shortened and
supported them with sticks. But the nature of the soil,
the temperature of the climate, the quality of the fruit,
even wild, and the experiment, though imperfect, leave
no doubt that this vine, well cultivated, would produce
fine grapes, and that good sets brought from Europe
might also be cultivated with great success.
Cultivation is already more prosperous in Lower than
in Upper Louisiana, and will continue to augment in
proportion to the increase of the population, and the
encouragement given to the industry of the inhabitants
by foreign markets.
I ought to remark, that between the last settlements
of Upper Louisiana and the first in Lower Louisiana, that
is, from the river Saline to the Natchez, there is a space
of nearly seven or eight degrees of latitude, where scarcely
any human traces are to be seen, and which present to
the eye of the traveller, on the Spanish side, nothing but
a few wretched huts belonging to hunters. This space,
however, is covered with the richest lands, the finest
woods, and watered by numerous navigable rivers.
l66 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
The difference of climate between Upper and Lower
Louisiana, and the heat which prevails in this last country,
admit the cultivation of productions which cannot ripen in
the latitudes of Upper Louisiana.
Indigo has long been cultivated, and though very
inferior to that of Guatinale and the Antilles, is preferable
to that of Georgia and the Carolinas. The harvests,
however, are very precarious, because this plant requires
a dry soil ; while the indigos planted in Lower Louisiana,
which is overflowed almost every year, often perish before
they ripen. Independently of the variety of accidents
which render the cultivation of this plant very hazardous
in the country where the indigo grows, the root of that
of Louisiana is liable to be pricked by a small worm,
which, from the extreme humidity of the ground, abounds
in this part and destroys the plant. The harvests have
been known to fail two or three years successively;
this misfortune happened in 1794, and no indigo was
made on any plantation. The low price of the indigo
of Louisiana in the European markets, especially since
India furnishes this article in such large quantities and so
rich in quality, does not indemnify the planters of indigo
for their expenses and the frequent failure of their har-
vests. It is on this account that they have entirely
abandoned the cultivation of that plant; and in Louisiana,
OF NORTH AMERICA. 167
I saw the mdigo works in ruins, and the planters reduced
to growing maize and yams, sawing planks with mills
which they had built, and framing timber for houses,
which they send to the Havannah and the Islands, pre-
ferring the very moderate gain which they reap from
this hard labor, to the uncertain and continually decreas-
ing profits to be obtained by the cultivation of indigo.
Cotton is cultivated with success in Louisiana ; its
wool is as fine and as white as that of the Antilles, but
shorter. One of the causes which contribute to disgust
the inhabitants with this cultivation is, that it is laborious,
and employs a great number of hands; that the cotton
tree, which in the Antilles resists the temperature three
years, perishes in Louisiana from the rigor of the winters,
though they are of short duration, if they be not re-
planted every year. The adhesion of the grain to the
cotton requires great care and a considerable time to
separate it, and the coarse kind of mill which is used
for this operation, shortens still more the cotton wool,
and lenders it inferior in value, in the markets of
Europe, to the cotton of Surinam, Cayenne, the West
Indian Islands, and the Indies.
Nevertheless, we are led to think that the cotton
planters of Louisiana, more enlightened and prudent,
will not abandon the cultivation of this article, which, if
l68 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
it requires care, will in return yield certain harvests,
and which, except what regards the preparation of the
soil, may be confided to children. With respect to
the adhesion of the grains of cotton, this depends altoge-
ther on the kind of seed which is employed, the choice
of which may be taught by experience.
The same inconveniences attending the separation of
the cotton in Louisiana, are found in Georgia and Caro-
lina. The mills, coarsely made and ill combined, broke
and shortened the wool so much, that the value was
diminished a quarter : a better machine has lately been
introduced into the United States, which is no doubt
susceptible of greater perfection, and the cotton has
already resumed its old price. It is, therefore, to be
hoped, that the industry of the Louisiana cotton planters
will be duly excited, and that, if encouraged by a proper
attention on the part of government, to commerce and agri-
culture, and instructed by the experience of others, they •
will find the means of carrying to its highest perfection
a produce of so much importance^ and for which there
is so great a demand.
The sugar cane is at present the most favored object
of culture in Lower Louisiana ; it is natural to the
country, but the attempts which have been made at
different periods to ameliorate its growth have been aban-
OF NORTH AMERICA. 169
doned. Louisiana, from the neglect of the indigo grounds,
and the discouragement of the cotton planters, was
reduced to great distress, when Mr. Bore, an old French
inhabitant, distinguished as much for his attachment to
his ancient country as the activity of his genius, under-
took, contrary to the opinion of the whole colony, to
re-establish the cultivation of the sugar cane.
It was towards the end of October that I visited
Mr. Bore's* plantation. He was then employed in cutting
the canes which had been planted the beginning of
February, as at St. Domingo, but closer to each other,
at least so it appeared to me, than in the Antilles. I found
them still green, the knots at very small distances,
and the stalks slender. Notwithstanding this state of
unripeness, he was rolling, that is, pressing the canes
in the mill. This mill, like those of St. Domingo, is
turned by five mules : the juice was of a green color,
contained a considerable quantity of acid, and was
evaporated in six boilers of unequal size, the only in-
struments of this kind Mr. Bore could find in the colony.
The syrop, less yellow than that of the Antilles, was
* It was at the house of this respectable citizen that I was arrested by
order of the Governor of Louisiana, as I have already related.
!y0 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
sweet and good. The pale color sometimes observed in
the syrops at St. Domingo, is attributed to the drought,
and sometimes also to the excessive humidity of the
season during the growth of the sugar cane. In Lou-
isiana, this paleness must proceed chiefly from the imper-
fect ripeness of the cane, which on account of the winter
can remain only nine months in the earth; whilst in
the Antilles, where this plant is continually exposed to
a burning sun, the planters never think it ripe but at
the end of thirteen, fourteen, and fifteen months. From
the great quantity of acid and watery particles it con-
tains, the sugar < f Louisiana loses much more by evapo-
ration, and crystallizes with more difficulty than in the
Antilles.
The moist sugars in Mr. Bore's plantation are good,
crystallise well, and have a rich grain; but they still
contain a thick watery matter, which cannot be totally
purified by evaporation.
The raw sugar is of the first quality, and such was
the opinion of the planters to whom I showed sam-
ples. It has so much body, that some of them thought it
had been refined. This perfection is a proof of the
extreme fertility of the soil, and of its necessary pro-
perties for the nourishment of the plant. The only
OF NORTH AMERICA. 17!
difficulty is to select the kind of cane which will soonest
ripen.
Experiments had been made in St. Domingo, previous
to the revolution, on the sugar cane of Batavia; the small
number of planters by whom it had been cultivated,
found it superior to the common cane, from the certainty
as well as abundance of its produce. These experi-
ments were interrupted by the troubles which took place
in the colony, and it is therefore difficult to lay down
any sure data. We are ignorant of what it would be
highly interesting for Louisiana to ascertain, whether in
the space of nine months it can attain a sufficient degree
of maturity.
At Guadaloupe, in the English colonies, and parti-
cularly at Antigua, the 'cane of Olaheite is cultivated.
This cane has been introduced only within four years,
and its advantages over the common cane are various ;
it ripens in ten months instead of fourteen ; in dry sea-
sons, when the common cane cannot shoot, the cane of
Otahcite is not retarded in its growth; it flourishes in
fen lands, where the common cane cannot grow ; the.
cane of Otaheitc gives more juice than the common cane,
and from an equal quantity yields more sugar, which
is of the finest color. The only disadvantage of this
cane, compared with the other, is, that its wood is not
Y3
172 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
so fit to heat the coppers, and that it considerably
impoverishes the ground ; hut these inconveniences are
slight for a soil so fertile and so rich in wood as Loui-
o
siana. The superiority of this cane has been so well
ascertained in Antigua, that no other is at present culti-
vated; it is also very general in the English colonies, espe-
cially in Jamaica; and vessels freighted only with this
plant have been constantly sent from Antigua to this last
colony within these two years, in spile of the dangers of
the war. It is highly probable that the cultivation of
this cane would very well suit the soil and climate of
Lower Louisiana ; but time and successive experiments,
aided by the light thrown on this subject by well in-
structed boards of administration, and scientific men in
Europe, can alone determine definitively the choice of
the inhabitants, who, encouraged by Mr. Bore's success,
seem much prejudiced in favor of this species of culti-
vation. There is, however, so great a want of refiners
in Lower Louisiana, that the only workman in the
colony, and who is in Mr. Bore's service, refines for
other planters when his master's work is finished. It is
scarcely necessary to observe, how much sugar must be
lost from the want of this class of workmen.
Mr. Bore thinks that the success of his plantation is
owing to the care he takes to convey the waters of the
OF NORTH AMERICA. l'fS
Mississipi into his grounds, by means of sluices which he
opens and shuts at pleasure. These irrigations keep the
grounds constantly moist in the months of March, April,
and May, which are the seasons of the great droughts in
Louisiana, and which Mr. Bore has found to be extremely
hurtful to the growth of the canes. This mode is prac-
tised in almost every plantation, the nature and position
of the grounds fitted for sugar being nearly every where
the same in Lower Louisiana, and the waters of the
Mississipi rising regularly from March to July.
The sugar cane which Mr. Bore cultivates, and which
is the common cane of the country, yields only from eight
to nine hundred weight of moist sugar per acre; while
the same extent of ground in St. Domingo produces from
twenty-five hundred to three thousand weight. This
difference arises, as I have already observed, from the
great evaporation.
His establishment, which consists of a mill, stove,
outhouse, the whole built with brick and covered with
tiles, including the cylinder and boilers, cost him only
four thousand piastres. It is true, that in these buildings
he employed his negroes, women as well as men, the
number of whom was forty. It must also be observed,
that the bricks, tiles, and lime, were found on his estate;
that the carpenter's work was made at home; and that
iy4 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
the construction of the whole was the labor of eighteen
months. This expense will appear, no doubt, very
trifling for so large and important a manufactory. At
St. Domingo, such an establishment would have cost two
hundred thousand livres.
The produce of Mr. Bore's establishment amounted to
twelve thousand piastres ; and he employed only forty
negroes, men and women, having no greater number:
a very considerable part of his canes, therefore, were left
to rot, for want of hands to gather them.
A longer abode at Mr. Bore's would, as I have already
observed, have yielded me more information : there were,
however, several important questions which he confessed
he was not prepared to answer, being still but a novice
in this kind of cultivation. Long experience, the com-
parison of the produce of several j'ears, the observation
of the influence of different seasons on the different kinds
of culture, on the various sorts of canes, the most econo-
mical mode of labor, and the comparison of the expenses
with the profits, could alone give these questions a; satis-
factory solution.
But one fact of great importance is ascertained ; —
that the soil of Lower Louisiana is fitted for the growth
of the sugar cane, that it is capable of producing fine and
good sugar, that such sugar is actually produced, and
OF NORTH AMERICA, lj&
in as great a quantity as is possible, considering the num-
ber of hands employed.*
Maize and oats are also grown in Lower Louisiana,
and all kinds of produce may be cultivated with success,
whenever sufficient encouragement is given by a sure
market, which can arise only from an active trade.
Great quantities of rice grows in the swamps belonging
to almost every habitation in Lower Louisiana. Tobacco
is also an article of produce, particularly in the Nattshi-
loches, at Pointe Coupee and the Natchez. The first of
these settlements furnishes tobacco of the best quality,
esteemed the finest and most valuable for the market.
Two millions weight are exported annually. In the
other settlements the tobacco is good, but inferior; for
which reason less is grown.
Pomegranates, lemons, oranges, and olives, ripen in
the sun of Lower Louisiana ; the heat of which, however,
is not so great as to prevent the whiles from working the
ground, which takes place in the Two Parishes of the
Accadians and Germans, both of which settlements are
the oldest and most considerable in Lower Louisiana.
These spots are in latitude 29.0 55." but the inha-
In 1796 there were l\vo sugar plantations; at present there are up-
wards of two hundred.
1-jG SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
bitants work like those in the most temperate European
climates ; few negroes are seen in these establishments,
and still fewer in Upper Louisiana, where the whites work
as in Europe.
Amongst the numerous advantages arising from this
colony to a government which should place a due value on
agriculture and industry, the multitude of cattle in certain
parts of Lower Louisiana might hold the first rank. The
settlements which arc more particularly productive are the
Attacapas, the Apelousas, Baratarias, Chitamachas, and
the Wachitas, all of which are on the right side of the
Mississipi. The droves of cattle are so considerable in
these countries, that few of the inhabitants are acquainted
with the riches they possess. The current price of a bul-
lock is four piastres, and from six to eight piastres that
of a horse.
OF NORTH AMERICA, 177
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Far trade — Places most convenient for this commerce — The English
in sole possession of this trade — Great importance of
Canada to the English — Benefits arising from the fur trade —
Total failure of this branch of commerce to the merchants of
Louisiana — Exclusive privileges obtained by the English —
Their persevering activity — Roads by which they trade — Mo-
nopoly of the trade of Florida — Forts on the Spanish territory
belonging to the English — Advantages of New Orleans —
Reflections — Erroneous opinions respecting the fur trade —
Philadelphia and Baltimore ruined by the trade of New
Orleans.
J. he immense territory to the north of the great lakes of
America, and to the westward of the Mississipi, hounded
hy the Frozen Sea and the Pacific Ocean, is the region
which has so long and so abundantly supported the fur
trade. The articles of this commerce had also been long
VOL. II. z
ffi SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
supplied by those countries which border on Canada, and
nearer to the Atlantic ; but in proportion as the Europeans
removed their settlements farther from the coasts, the
fur animals retreated; and the Indian nations, driven
by force, or under the influence of terror, soon followed
their example. A few, indeed, to the south of the great
lakes and east of the Mississipi, yet remain ; but these
are so circumscribed in their possessions that scarcely
any can subsist by hunting. The existence of the whole
is extremely precarious ; and although a few of these
tribes may from time to time trade for skins' of bears and
roebucks, they cannot be considered as contributing to
what may properly be called the fur trade. The resources
of this branch of commerce are, therefore, found at pre-
sent beyond the great lakes and to the west of the Missis-
sippi.
I shall confine myself, in this chapter, to that part
which is contained within the limits of Louisiana.
The trade which is actually carried on belongs almost
exclusively to English companies ; that is, to England :
since the English manufactories alone supply the articles
of exchange for this commerce, even to the French mer-
chants of Upper Louisiana who carry on this traffic.
Hence it naturally follows, that the furs from the Spanish
territory, and belonging to Spanish subjects, are trans-
OF NORTH AMERICA. 17 9
ported to Canada, where they increase the commercial
wealth of the English nation, and swell the amount of its
fiscal revenues.
Trade no doubt belongs of right to those nations
who are sovereigns of the country in which are found
such commodities as form the object of its commerce;
but it belongs, in fact, to that nation which can best ex-
tract such productions, and export them with the greatest
advantage for the trader and the consumer. This order
of things, so beneficial to the great mass of society, cannot
for a long time be restricted by any prohibitory law. The
mines even of Mexico and Peru, in spite of the numerous
soldiery which guard them, would be ransacked by foreign
nations, did not the Spanish government monopolize the
working.
When at the peace which followed the war of 1707,
so disastrous for France, the cabinet of Versailles thought,
or affected to think, that in yielding Canada to England
it gave up nothing but a territory of no real advantage,
a domain without revenues, a continual drawback without
any returns, a constant object of ruinous and foreign war.
England beheld in this cession, a new source of supplying
the manufactories of the mother country by articles im-
ported from its own colonies, of giving a fresh spur to its
commerce, and increasing the resources of its marine.
z 2
l8o SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
When we consider that during forty years Canada has been
English territory, and that this power has not once im-
posed the slightest direct revenue ; that no tax has been
levied to defray the expenses of its government, but that
all has been disbursed from the Exchequer ; and that
those expenses, including the sums paid the Indians,
amount annually to three hundred thousand pounds ster-
ling ; it may well be imagined that England deems the
possession of this colony of sufficient importance to its in-
terests. Having no pretensions, at the peace of 1763, to
the cession of Louisiana, England beheld with satisfac-
tion the transfer of this colony to Spain, from a conviction
that the Spanish government was less able than the French
to direct the resources of this important colony to advan-
tage, or throw obstacles in the way of the projects which
the English cabinet had formed of applying these resources
to its own profit, and becoming at some future period
the proprietor of the soil. This intention was clearly
manifested in 1780, when the garrisons of Florida marched
against New Orleans, whilst a body of English and In-
dians invaded the Spanish settlements in the Illinois.
England, having at this epocha lost all hope of reco-
vering by main force her American colonies, formed the
project of surrounding them by her new possessions ; of
checking and harassing them on each side by land, whilst
OF NORTH AMERICA. l8l
her marine annihilated their trade on the shores of the
Atlantic; thus keeping them in a state of perpetual blockade.
The possession of Louisiana would have completed the list
of resources which were drawn from Canada,, and which it
was hoped might be increased. This station also furnished
the means of menacing the Antilles., and of attacking them
under any favorable circumstances : besides, it had the
advantage of being not far distant from New Mexico ;
since, in twenty-five days march across a chain of vast
meadows, thinly wooded, well watered, and intercepted
neither by mountains nor large rivers, an army might be
transported from St. Lewis to Santa-Fe. The other go-
vernments of Europe ought to have this circumstance con-
tinually in view, and be convinced of the importance of
opposing by the most powerful obstacles the execution
of a project, which Great Britain might not hastily be
disposed to relinquish.
Though England failed in her attempt, in 1780, to
wrest Louisiana from Spain, she did not give up the
means of enriching herself by its territory ; and the genius
of that country, directed with so much earnestness and
constancy towards the increase of its commerce, with no
other rival than the apathy of the Spaniards, found little
difficulty in the execution of its designs. What is here
stated respecting the policy of England, is equally appli-
102 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
cable to the principles which govern the United States of
America.
It is not easy to make a pecuniary estimation of the
amount of the furs which England receives from Ame-
rica : the companies of Canada preserve the same silence
on this subject as all other merchants with respect to their
trade, and the political interests of England favor the
mystery. We know, however, that in 1795 the duties
paid on furs at the custom - house of London amounted
to nineteen thousand pounds sterling ; that the duties
on furs, except on bear skins, are very low ; and that
the companies in Canada are very speedily and abun-
dantly enriched by this commerce, as are their cor-
respondents in England, who spread these furs throughout
Europe, and even as far as China. The most wealthy of
these companies trade to the north and west of the lakes,
because in these regions the furs are finer and found in
greater abundance than elsewhere : but the merchants
who trade below the lakes in the Spanish provinces
speedily enrich themselves, and it is of these only that
we are now treating. Persons who appeared to be well
informed on this subject, assured me that the north-west
company draw goods annually from Great Britain to the
amount of sixteen hundred and fifty-six thousand livrcs
tournois, and that the furs which they exported sold for
OP NORTH AMERICA. 100
three millions five hundred thousand livres ; upon which,
after deducting the freight, assurance, commission, and
other charges, there remained every year on an average
a profit of fifteen hundred and forty -four thousand
livres.
The profits of the merchants under the Spanish
Government settled at St. Lewis, and who deal in furs,
are nothing in comparison with those of the English
merchants; these trade on considerable capitals, and im-
port from England the various European goods of which
they stand in need, by means of an agent who is satisfied
with his commission ; or when pressed, obtain them from
Montreal, at an advance of thirty or forty per cent, on the
English prices. If their operations oblige them to delay
their payments, they pay interest for the money at five
per cent in England or iVmerica. The Spanish merchants,
on the contrary, trading on small capitals, never find, and
especially at New Oilcans, such goods as they want, but
are obliged to send for them to Montreal, where they are
supplied by the English merchantsj with whom having
slender credit, they are always constrained to sell to those
English companies the furs which they have collected. It
is by means such as these that the profits of those compa-
nies accumulate, and thereby swell the mass of the richesof
Great Britain : and the immense advantages thus accruing
l84 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
to the English companies furnish them with the means of
pushing their trade to the greatest extent possible.
The nation of the Sioux, broken into a considerable
number of tribes along the river Saint Lewis, which
empties itself into Lake Superior, furnishes the English
traders with three hundred packets of roebuck skins, each
worth one hundred livres. These packets are the specie,
or course of exchange, by which other furs are estimated.
The nation of the Sauteux, part of which lies between
the fiftieth and fifty-second degrees of latitude, and ninety
to ninety - five west longitude from the meridian of
London, and who dwell chiefly on the banks of the Red
Piiver, supplies the English company with about an
hundred packets of fine furs. The same company draws
about seventeen hundred more from the remainder of the
country, situated to the south of Lake La Pluie, the lake
of the Woods, Lake Winnipic, and to the north of the
sources of the Mississipi.
The English Companies push their trade, also, much
farther to the south west of the countries which I have
mentioned : one of those companies* obtained from the
government of Louisiana, some years since, the privilege
of trading along the Missouri and to the west of tho
* Messrs. Todd and Co*
OF NORTH AMERICA. l85
Mississipi, where they formed several establishments, and
from which branched off a number of small forts at
certain distances from each other, making progress in
proportion as they discovered the means of trading with
any new nations. The English merchants have spared
neither labor nor expense for the purpose of extending
their commerce as far as possible ; sending persons out on
discovery, providing them with every thing necesssary
for an expedition of two or three years, and furnishing
them with goods both for trading and making presents.
Were the whole of these goods expended in the journey
without any return of furs, the expedition is always ac-
counted profitable, if those who undertake it pierce through
new tracts, discover new rivers, and especially new
nations : a second expedition, on such occasions, is then
sent out, more numerous and more abundantly stored.,
which returns laden with articles that indemnify, by their
immense profits, all the expense which had previously
been incurred. It is confidently asserted, that the English
have penetrated as far as that great chain of mountains
which runs parallel with the Pacific Ocean, and which
seems to separate the countries situated on the eastern
side, as these are divided from the Atlantic by the Alle-
gany mountains. Several Indian nations, attached to the
English merchants from the intercourse of trade, aid
vol. ir. a a
l86 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
them in their commerce by trafficking themselves with
nations more remote ; to whom they carry European
goods, and bring back to those merchants the produce o
their expeditions. f
The great store of goods for exchange belonging to the
English companies is at Michilimackinack.* This is the
point of departure for the traders who go in search of
furs, and of those also who convey these furs to Canada.
The communication of the English companies from
Michilimackinack to Montreal is not by the navigation of
lakes Ontario, Erie, etc. wliere there are few carrying
places; they go up the river Ota was, join lake Nipissing
and lake Huron by French River, and thus reach lake
Michigan, at the entrance of which is Fort Michilimack-
inack. This route is intersected by six carrying places :
the canoes are of bark, carrying only from three to four
tons and nine men. This mode of conveyance is much
more expensive and sometimes less expeditious than the
navigation of the lakes, employing six weeks j but it is
* Michilimackinack, in the Indian language, signifies a tortoise. It is.
a post established on a peninsula, and which defends the entrance of the lake
Michigan. But the English, compelled to evacuate and give up this
station to the United Stales, have established another on the island Si. Joseph,
which defends and commands the whole of the entrance of lake Superior.
This, in every point of view, is a very preferable position.
IN NORTH AMERICA. 187
preferred by the companies, because, however difficult
the route, they know precisely the number of days
which it requires for the journey, and which they cannot
ascertain on the lakes from the great variation of the
winds. This is an essential condition with the mer-
chants of Canada, since the river St. Lawrence, being
navigable only during a short and determined time, admits
of no delay for the stated periods of receiving furs and
sending them to Europe.
By combinations thus well calculated, by labor so judi-
ciously directed, by expenses so wisely hazarded and so
liberally supplied ; in short, by unremitting ardor in dis-
covering the fittest means of extending their trade, the
English have at present gained possession of every branch
of commerce in the Spanish territory. Every point in
that region, as far as Western Florida, is supplied from
London by means of two English companies that are
settled at the Bahama islands, and who, having obtained
from Spain the exclusive privilege of sending goods to
Louisiana, import in exchange the small number of skins
which they take from the Indian nations inhabiting
Florida and Georgia.
To complete this faithful contrast between the useful
and laudable activity of the English and the ruinous
apathy of the Spaniards, we should add that the establish-
l88 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
ments which the English companies have formed in
Louisiana are always guarded by armed men in their pay.
These establishments., which serve as temporary stores for
goods and as forts for the protection of caravans, are
situated on the rivers Owpas, Catopy, the Red River,
St. Peter and Moins* River, and are protected by small
works constructed with earth, and by block houses, against
any attacks from the Indians : thus England actually
has soldiers and forts on the territory of the King of
Spain, and in greater number than those of His Catholic
Majesty .-f It may readily be conceived, that in proportion
as the English trade extends itself (as it has already done)
to the more rich and populous parts of Upper Louisiana,
this military force will increase; and that on some future
occasion it may be applied with success to other views far
more dangerous than those of the fur trade.
This state of affairs excites regret and indignation,
when we reflect how contrary it is to the nature of
things; and that, from the number of rivers which water
Louisiana, from their direction and facility of navigation,
the route of New Orleans seems to have been evidently
marked out for the whole of this kind of produce.
* See the map of Upper Louisiana,
-f- There are seventeen men at St. Lewis, and two at St. Genevieve.
OP NORTH AMERICA.
Lake Winnipic is separated from fort Michilimacki-
nack by seventy-two carrying-places; and from this place
of general stores to Montreal, there are (as I have already
said) thirty-sis others. The seven months, during which
the river St. Lawrence is closed, require such extreme
exactness with respect to the conveyances, that fifteen days
of delay only would occasion the failure of the trade for
the whole year. The subjects of the King of Spain, on the
contrary, would have only to traverse a carrying-place of
twelve miles from this same lake Winnipic, and from the
river Asseneboine to the Missouri. The productions of
the countries bordering on these lakes might be conveyed
to New Orleans by the rivers which fall into the Mississipi,
the Missouri, and the other great rivers adjoining, and
which are navigable from an hundred to eight hundred
leagues, without rocks, falls, or rapids ; these rivers seem
to have been formed only to convey to the gulf of Mexico
the various riches of the countries which they water,
and to carry back in exchange the commodities of which
they stand in need.
The perusal of the chapter on the Missouri, and the
inspection of the map of Upper Louisiana, will fully
justify my observations on this subject : but as I have not
entered into details on navigation in this chapter, it is
sufficient to state that the Mississipi, the Missouri, and the
igo
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
various rivers which are tributary to them, are within the
reach of such Indian tribes as are already known, nations
of warriors, or hunters, settled in these countries hitherto
so little frequented, and rich in animals of every kind ;
that these nations are mild, friendly, and hospitable, some
of whom mingle the labors of agriculture with those of
hunting ; that a great number have as yet no concern in
the fur trade ; that amidst those countries already disco-
vered, and beyond their limits, many tribes yet unknown
no doubt exist ; that, independently of the Mississipi and
the Missouri, a considerable number of other rivers from
St. Lewis to New Orleans empty themselves into the Mis-
sissipi after a course of greater or less extent, and on the
banks of which dwell various other nations: from whence
I conclude, that whatever be the injuries done to the
interests of Spain by the introduction of the English com-
panies into the territory of His Catholic Majesty, the evil
is not yet so extensive or so inveterate as to be without
remedy. But it is now time to think of those dangers,
and of the means of removing them ; since a few more
years of apathy would render ineffectual these means
which are now so simple and easy, as may be demon-
strated by the geographical and topographical position
of Upper and Lower Louisiana.
OF NORTH AMERICA. igl
The principal measure to be adopted, and which will
render every successive effort easy, is, that a constant
and direct commerce be maintained between Europe and
New Orleans; that this place be continually furnished
with every kind of merchandise for the exchange neces-
sary for the trade, and such as should be suited to the
wants of the colony and the neighbouring states situated
on the rivers, the waters- of which flow into the Missis-
sipi or into the gulf of Mexico. I have already men-
tioned that the subjects of the King of Spain inhabiting
Louisiana, not finding at New Orleans the articles neces-
sary for trade or their own consumption, procure them at
fort Michilimackinack. These goods, purchased at Mon-
treal at thirty per cent, above the London prices, cost at
Michilimackinack twenty percent, more for commission,
and a further sum of twelve to fifteen per cent, for their
conveyance to St. Lewis : the goods, therefore, brought
to St. Lewis by the way of Canada, amount to seventy-
live per cent, above the London market.
The carriage from New Orleans costs only five piastres
the hundred weight; and we may suppose that there
are few bales or chests of goods of that weight coming
from Europe which are not worth much more than an
hundred piastres : but in estimating them only at this
rate, which is far below their real value, they would not
1Q2 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
cost more than thirty-five or thirty-six per cent, above the
European prices ; supposing also that the freights from the
ports of France or Spain to New Orleans are not less than
those from London to Montreal.
The establishment at New Orleans of houses of com-
merce, which in receiving goods from Europe must neces-
sarily be under the direction of rich capitalists, would
allow the traders of Louisiana the same advantages and
the same credit as the English companies receive from the
merchants of Montreal or London. This establishment
would secure the carriage of the whole fur trade from
Louisiana to New Orleans by the Mississipi.* England
has a positive advantage over all the other nations of
Europe, which it is easy to take out of its hands by imi-
tating its policy: this advantage arises from the well con-
bined measures taken for the conveyance of its goods,
from the system of navigation which it has established,
from the low price of its insurances, and the quickness of
its expeditions : but this advantage cannot over-balance the
means of conveying, without any concurrence, by a navi-
Nothing can more effectually remedy a part of those inconveniencies
than the industry of the American merchants ; but unfortunately they are
bliged to draw the articles of exchange from the English manufactories,
our own being totally unprovided,
OF NORTH AMERICA. 10,3
gation free from obstacles, every kind of merchandise to
the most distant nations, and of receiving, by the same
route and with still greater facility, every sort of produce
in exchange. England imports almost all its raw materials;
the price of workmanship would inhance the value of
its manufactures, did not the great use of machines make
up for the loss which would arise from manual labor.
The rest of the governments of Europe, wiLh little atten-
tion, might provide themselves with the same resources;
"and the difference of the value of labor regulating that
of the price of goods in the market, the advantage in our
favor would be immense.
If the government of the United States fix its boun-
dary line as was laid down by the treaty of 1785, this
line, touching the most north-westerly point of the lake
of the Woods, would cut off the English from all connexion
with lake Winnipic, unless they make a round by
Hudson's Bay and go up York river, with which it com-
municates, and that route would considerably increase the
difficulty and expense. But even should the Americans
not fix their boundary in this manner, or should the
communication between the lake Winnipic and lake
Superior not be taken away from the English, the advan-
tages of commerce would be no less in favor of New
Orleans, by the establishment of large warehouses and a
vol. 11. b b
iq4 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN' RIVERS
general magazine at St. Lewis. The enormous difference
in the price of goods going up the Mississipi, and the
great facility which this river gives for a speedy market
for furs, would shut up all communications between the
companies trading to the east of its course and Montreal
with much more certainty than any prohibition or
treaty.
The privileges of the English companies to trade on
the territory of His Catholic Majesty are but temporary;
these privileges expire at the end of three years ; and as
they are not yet very numerous, they may either not be
increased or be entirely annulled. The merchant, as is
well known, views his country in his interest ; he becomes
attached to the power which provides him the largest and
speediest gains. The English companies employ English-
men neither as agents, traders, nor soldiers ; but Canadians
only, whose decided attachment for their nation is so
well known, that it is become proverbial to say, that,
under the government and rule of the English, they never
cease to call themselves Frenchmen. They never see a
Frenchman without emotion: and if the French or mer-
chants of Louisiana engaged in the fur trade, they would
easily draw off the Canadians from the English companies.*
* Although the English merchants are now in possession of Louisiana,
the French merchants may still reap considerable advantages from this hono-
rable attachment of the Canadians.
OP NORTH AMERICA. Ig5
The inhabitants of Louisiana had oblained from the
Court of Madrid, after the peace of 1783, permission to
purchase in the different ports of France such goods as
they wanted, by paying a duly of six per cent on the
importation, and as much for the exports : this permis-
sion was continued to the period of the French Revo-
lution. The vessels which came from Bourdeaux were
freighted with every article wanted in the colony ; those
which sailed from Havre de Grace imported from London,
as articles of traffic with the Indians, clothes and blankets,
which since the cession of Canada* are not to be found in
France. This facility gave still a little animation to the
commerce of Louisiana, and rendered it less disadvan-
tageous to the inhabitants, but the merchants of New
Orleans wanted capital; f trade was deprived of that
protection, encouragement, and liberty, which are always
essentially necessary in growing establishments so far
distant and so little known; — protection and liberty
which it was not possible to hope for from Spain, be-
cause it demands an enlightened and unremitting attention,
* I have collected the dimensions, kind, and quality of the different
goods which are preferred by the Indian nations.
-f- This is no longer the case ; since New Orleans is now filled with
rich merchants.
b b a
ig6 survey of the western rivers
which can never be expected from the Spanish character,
nor from the principles of that government, till it has
shaken off the lethargy which benumbs all its facul-
ties.
The fur trade is not the only advantage which Lou-
isiana offers for commerce. The preceding articles of this
work show what vast resources might be found in the vast
quantities of fine timber which grow on this colony, and
in the productions of agriculture of every kind in the
various latitudes of these countries. The gratuitous ces-
sion of lands with good titles (a condition mentioned here
from' the general defect on this point in the United States)
would draw a great number of emigrants from Europe,
Louisiana would soon become peopled, the banks of the
Mississipi would be inhabited in their whole extent, and
in a short space of time the resources of the country
would be successively brought into action : independently
of the commodities which would then be furnished for
exportation by a more extensive and better cultivation,
the mines, quarries, and salt-pits, which are very abun-
dant in this country, would be explored 5 and a rich pro-
vision of commerce would be found in its hemp, flax,
tar, and oils. Louisiana would supply the wants of the
colonics even better than the other States of America.
OF NORTH AMERICA. I97
The whole of the productions, in short, of the rivers
Ouicousin, the Illinois, the Ohio, and the Yahoo, having
no other outlet than the Mississipi, must pass by New
Orleans and necessarily increase its commerce.
The Illinois of the United States receive at present
their goods from Michilimackinack ; Kentucky, Tenesse,
and the north - west territory, from Philadelphia or
Baltimore : on account of the want of storehouses well and
regularly furnished at New Orleans.
The merchants of the ports in the Atlantic States
and those of Montreal, finding their own interest in
this mode of supply, pretend that it is not only the surest
but the most economical for those countries. No one
in the United States was interested in contradicting this
assertion, or in examining how far it was founded ;
since, were the truth once cleared up, a part of the
Philadelphia and Baltimore trade would be ruined. —
This assertion, however, cannot bear the slightest
examination, as we have already shown in the chapter
on Kentucky.
No danger can be incurred in descending the river,
provided the pilots be attentive to avoid the trees and
other impediments which are always to be found in rivers
running through uninhabited countries; and in ascending
the river, no other inconvenience exists than the length of
iq8 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
the navigation.* With respect to the expense of con-
veyance, the carriage from Philadelphia to the Illinois
is twelve piastres the hundred weight ; six for the three
hundred and eighteen miles by land from Philadelphia to
Pittsburgh, where the navigation of the Ohio begins,
and six for transport on this river and that part of the
Misoissipi which boats are obliged to ascend, f The
expenses from Baltimore are the same; the difference of
the distance of forty miles to Pittsburgh is compensated by
the bad state of the roads, and the crossing of the
mountains. The expense from New Orleans to the Illinois
is, as I have already said, five piastres the French hun-
dred weight, which is seven piastres difference in favor
of New Orleans, without reckoning the difference in the
weight : goods, in short, are conveyed from Philadel-
phia or Baltimore to Franckfort in Kentucky, at thirty-
three per cent above the price at these two markets;
while the conveyance to the Illinois by New Orleans is
not more than four or four and an half.
It is true that the conveyance from Philadelphia to
the Illinois may be made in fifty-five or sixty days, whilst
* See the chapter on the navigation of the Mississipi.
-}■ The current of this river is the most rapid from the Ohio to the
Missouri; the cause of which I have explained in the chapter which treats
of this navigation.
OF NORTH AMERICA.
99
that from New Orleans requires from seventy to seventy-
five ; but this small difference in favor of the carriage from
Philadelphia is more than balanced by the badness of the
roads, in \\ Inch a waggon with four or five horses can
carry only twenty-five hundred weight ; by the loading
and unloading, as well as the warehousing, which takes
place at Pittsburgh ; and by accidents on the journey,
which always diminish in a greater or less degree the value
of the goods. Such are the inconveniencies of this mode
of conveyance, whilst the Mississipi may be navigated as
well as the Illinois in all seasons without a single portage,
by boats, carrying from an hundred to an hundred and
twenty thousand weight, and even by vessels of a still
greater burthen.*
The merchants of New York believe, that when the
different canals opened by the Slate shall be finished, the
goods by the North River, the Mohawk, Lake Oneida,
and all the great lakes, will be conveyed for five piastres
the hundred weight to Michilimackinack ; but the trouble
of carrying-places, of loading and unloading on the road,
will still be more sensibly felt, as well as the uncertainty
of the navigation of the lakes. Admitting even that this
expectation of the merchants of New York should be
* Galleys carrying twelve guns may easily go up the Missouri.
200 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
realised,' the goods which they might send wrould come to
the same price at Michilimackinack as those from New
Orleans would be worth at the Illinois. I have already
staled that the expenses from Michilimackinack to the
Illinois were from twelve to fifteen per cent : in addition
to which, the conveyance would take a longer ti*ne, and
be less secure than that of New Orleans. These facts are so
precise and certain, that the English company which had
obtained a privilege on the Mississipi was about to esta-
blish a house of commerce at New Orleans, to receive
from London whatever articles might be wanted for
trading with the Indians, and had also established a
depot at St. Lewis, when the declaration of war between
England and the Court of Spain put a stop to this project.
For these truths we may refer to the interest of the
merchant and the consumer.
OF NORTH AMERICA, 201
LIST
OP
ARTICLES OF EXCHANGE,
FITTED FOR THE COMMERCE OF THE WESTERN STATES, OF
UPPER AND LOWER LOUISIANA, AND THE FUR TRADE
WITH THE INDIANS,
WESTERN STATES.
WESTERN STATES.
WINES.
Teneriffe and Fayal.
Lisbon, in quarts.
Spanish, ditto.
Malaga, of an inferior quality,
ditto
French and Spanish brandies.
Holland gin, in casks, long
bottles, and chests.
VOL. II.
OBSERVATIONS.
No French -wines, unless sent as
sample.
Small parcels of Madeira.
262
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
WESTERN STATES.
OBSERVATIONS .
ARMS.
Cheap cutlasses.
Called briquets.
Long-barrelled guns for hunt-
ing and military uses.
Known by the name of lull's fusils
rA few carabines.
of Bourdeaux.
Large pistols.
Brass two and three-pounders
DRY GOODS.
Coarse blankets.
- ■ ■*
A few fine.
Woollen goods for clothing.
Ginghams.
Cloths from fifty sous lo nine
livres the ell; a few from
fourteen to forty-two livres.
Chiefly blue, grey, and quaker
Printed cotton goods, from
colors.
thirty sous to three livres
the ell.
Some pieces of the first quality
might be added by way of spe-
cimen.
OP NORTH AMERICA.
203
WESTERN STATES.
OBSERVATIONS.
Common woollen carpets.
Thread and worsted stock-
ings, from twenty sous to
four livres the pair.
Very coarse muslins.
A few black, white, blue and
quaker colored taffetas.
Black and colored silk hand-
kerchiefs for cravats.
Ditto, for shawls.
Cotton shawls.
Assortment of common rib-
band.
Assortment of tape.
Assortment of black velvet
ribband.
Assortment of silk and cotton
thread.
Cloth lining
A few pieces of black satin.
For curtains and pillows.
Figured borders ; a few fashion
able for samples.
Common, for breeches and women's
gowns.
io4
SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
WESTERN STATES.
OBSERVATIONS.
Clolli for shirts.
Clotli of Bretagne. .
Black, violet and olive co-
lored velveret.
Velvets for collars or breeches.
Black, grey, and a few white
silk stockings.
Cambrics, from four to twelve
livres the ell.
Lawns, from four to twelve
livres the ell.
Men's and women's gloves.
Black lace, from seven sols to
four livres.
Oiled cloths of different colors.
Straw hats.
Cutlery of every sort.
It is doubtful whether we can fur-
nish as cheap as Ireland ; Irish
shirts may be had at three livres.
Colored, but large ; a few white.
Of different patterns, to cover tables;
it is doubtful if we can furnish
as cheap as Germany.
Taking care to export only such as
are equal to the English; unfor-
tunately we have few, especially
at low prices.
OP NORTH AMERICA.
205
"WESTERN STATES.
OBSERVATIONS.
A few fashionable dresses.
Women's shoes.
Cheap clocks.
Silver watches, from thirty to
forty-eight livres.
A few gold watches, from five
to six louis.
Silver tea-spoons.
Very light, English fashion.
Shoe-buckles.
Thin patterns and cheap.
Tea equipage.
Common ; I fear we cannot furnish
them so cheap as England.
Common china, English form.
Same price as England.
Looking 'glasses, from eight
inches to twenty-two.
Mahogany frames, slightly gilt.
Window glass.
In great quantity, six inches by
eight, or eight by ten.
A few common ditto
Nine by seven, English measure.
Damask table cloth.
Low rate, and large patterns.
White paper.
And every article for compting
A few cheap prints.
houses.
Mercery of every kind.
Jewellery, rings, and ear-rings.
Shirt pins, wrist buttons, at
the lowest prices.
3o6
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN STATES
UPPER AND LOWER LOUISIANA,
UPPER AND LOWER LOUISIANA.
OBSERVATIONS.
In general the same articles as
for the Western States, to
which may be added a few
articles of luxury, such as
fashionable dresses, hous-
hold furniture, etc. but at
low prices.
Ladies' fashionable shoes.
For Lower Louisiana only.
Ladies' colored silk and cotton
stockings, with embroidered
clocks.
Elegant silk and cotton shawls.
Fine paper for rooms.
Ladies parasols,
Fine shirtings and sheetings.
Good cam bricks and lawns.
A few light coaches and ca-
briolets.
Great coats of linen and oiled
tafFety.
French wines of every price
and quality, both in casks
These carriages ought to be con-
structed for hot climates 5 that
is, with open tops, etc.
and bottles.
N. B. As the Americans
have a direct commerce with
India, they can furnish all the
produce of the Indian manu-
factories 25 per cent, cheaper
than the Europeans.
Note. With respect to Upper
Louisiana, nothing costly ; nearly
the same articles as for the Western
States.
OF NORTH AMERICA.
207
FOR THE FUR TRADE.
FOR THE FUR TRADE.
OBSERVATIONS.
Red and blue woollen cloths.
Large red coats, worsted
lace.
Coarse hats, bound with
worsted lace, and covered
with showy feathers.
London muskets.
Carabines, of the form we
have specified.
White powder-horns.
Powder and balls.
Shells.
Drinking cups of china or
bone.
Blue goblets.
Small drinking cups, colored
blue, black, and white.
Assortments of brass wires.
Framed looking glasses.
Horse-bells of various sizes.
Copper rings and ear-rings.
Box combs.
Awls and steels.
Gun-drawers.
Gun flints.
But small quantities of the blue.
Those of Tull, made at Bordeaux,
might be substituted ; these arc
preferable, but not much in use.
SOS
SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVER3
TOR THE FUR TRADE.
Black silk haudkerchiefs.
Square blue cotton handker-
chiefs.
Large Indian three-cornered
coverlids.
Ready made shirts,
Copper saucepans of all sizes.
Pick-axes, hatchets, and large
nails.
Tomahawks.
Spears in form of a half pike.
Short sabres.
Large and small scalping
knives with sheaths.
Vermillion.
Silver and metal Medals.
OBSERVATIONS.
This kind of coverlid is lost^ in our
manufactories.
Few white, but plenty colored;
the more chequered and varie~
the better.
These medals serve as presents for
the chiefs. It ought to be ob-
served, that they should have
only one figure upon them ; for
when an Indian sees more, he
will not accept the medal : I have
but one heart, he tells you, I can-
not love more than one person !
OF NORTH AMERICA.
209
CHAPTER XXIX,
Observations on the history of the United States — Origin of their
independence — Different parties since the Revolution — Influence
of the English party on General If'ashington — Treaty of
iy$5 — Defects of that treaty — Persecutions under the govern-
ment of President Adams — Constitution shaken — Hostilities
against France — The Federalists unmasked — Separation pro-
posed— Project of the English against Louisiana.
VV hen I visited Louisiana, of which France had been
an early but unprofitable owner, and which has since
been a burdensome possession to Spain, the opinion
had long prevailed that this province would again change
its master, and that (according to the circumstances
of the first crisis which should take place in North
America) it would be France or England who would
become the proprietors, before the United States were
sufficiently powerful to risk placing themselves in
vol. ii. p d
iUO SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
competition. It was, therefore, interesting to acquire
a knowledge of the rights, the hopes, and the resources of
each of those governments : nor should it, perhaps, be
deemed superfluous to present, in a political description
of this country, a sketch of the circumstances under
which the question relative to its possession ought to be
decided ; for it is natural to ask, why the United States,
judged at first to be the power which would favor the
views of one of the other two candidates for possession,
should be the power to whose lot it should definitively
fall. This government becomes, therefore, an object
on which the historian or observer is necessarily led to
fix his attention.
Although the English colonies in North America ap-
peared to be established on principles altogether different,
some under governments depending on the Crown, others
by charters and privileges granted to companies, and
finally by absolute infeudations (such as Pennsylvania,
which was given to William Penn, with the reserve
of the sovereignty to the Crown) the basis of those
governments was still the same as that of the English
constitution, which is thought to be representative but
which is not so in reality.
If the claim of voting taxes for the service of the
mother country was not founded, they had the right of
OF NORTH AMERICA. 211
levying taxes on themselves for the expenses of their
home administration. At a distance from the seductions
of courts and from too direct an influence of the Crown,
they contrived to modify the administration of the colo-
nies so well, by those forms which are called republican
because they are just, that the spirit of the nation pro-
ceeded rapidly towards independence and liberty. Popu-
lar resistance to the government frequently occurred,
whenever it was believed, with or without reason, that
there was cause of complaint. After the fall of that
despotic government, improperly called an English re-
public, the independence of the sectaries of Cromwell,
colonised in Virginia, discovered itself in every crisis
of danger from the reign of Charles II. It soon became
more difficult to foresee how such explosions might be
prevented, than to forebode their progress ; especially
when they found fresh food and incitements in a growing
population. From the beginning of the seventeenth cen-
tury, therefore, the future division of the colonies and the
mother country was openly announced, and the predic-
tions on this point were so precise, that modern prophets
have had no other merit than to renew and bring them
into action. But the small intercourse of the colonies
with each other rendered a general and complete revolt
for a long time dangerous, and, in the first period of the
Dd %
Sia SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
accession of the House of Hanover, which held the reins
with a vigorous hand, the success would have heen very
precarious. It was of late only that the Duke of Choi-
seuil undertook, examined, and determined, with persons
whose names remain unknown to us, the plan of the
separation, which was to be realised at the first favorable
moment. It fell to the lot of the unfortunate Lewis XVI.
to execute this design of the French cabinet, which
had been too long decided on as advantageous to the
State to permit him to place, in opposition to its execu-
tion, either his own political sentiments or his personal
repugnance. It is asserted by the Americans, that it
was General Lee who first proposed absolute independence
and a republic : this General, so singularly modest, was
less celebrated during his life than after his death, on
account of the discovery that has been made of his being
the author of the celebrated "Letters of Junius."
But political disputes, like religious controversy, silence
without convincing. A great party of royalists remained
yet to be converted. Constrained to wear a mask, and to
adopt a catch-word, they styled themselves Federalists
out of respect to the new Government, whilst their
opponents sometimes assumed the name of democrats,
and always of republicans ; they were the tones and
-whigs of America : the first were artful and successful,
OF NORTH AMERICA. 2l3
the latter confiding and consequently dupes. The federa-
lists soon procured their own nomination to the chief
places in the legislature, were raised to the most impor-
tant employments in the administration, and honored
even by Washington, then become the principal defender
and chief of the new state. These two opinions soon
divided the whole of the inhabitants of the United
States into two classes nearly equal ; and however incre-
dible it may now appear, that so many men, who had
scarcely terminated a war of liberty in the most ele-
vated sense, should in so short a space of time have adopted
sentiments so contrary; such was nevertheless the truth.
Popular opinion is at the mercy of every breeze, and
what are termed principles are often only passions. The
look of a hero, who is the object of public admiration, is
sometimes sufficient to determine a people to adopt his
affections or his dislikes. This was the case with the great
Washington and the people of the United States : from
a pusillanimous policy, erroneous but never accused of
corruption, the chief of the new republic appeared insen-
sible to the insults which England had begun to offer,
and which were either concealed, tolerated, or excused,
lie not only suffered (and, when there is power of resist-
ance, to suffer is to will,) individuals formerly known,
some by their clamours, others by their open hostilities
2l4 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
against the republic, to obtain popular favor in elections,
but gave himself up by degrees to the direction and in-
fluence of ministers, who were party men too violent to
respect even the decencies which were required from their
station. When the war in 1793 broke out between
England and France, he did more : he quietly suffered
the English to enjoy many peculiar privileges in the United
States, in contempt of the neutrality which he ought to
have observed. It may easily be imagined, that when the
federalists perceived this disposition in their first magis-
trate, a man whose authority was indisputable, they did
not fail to encourage such a propensity; and thus was that
illustrious personage himself the first dupe of a faction,
which, assuming the title of federalist, instituted itself to
destroy the federation, and his name became a corrupted
currency which perverted many well meaning but weak
citizens.
From that period federalism became in some sort
organised in society, and was openly professed, because
the absolute freedom of the press, which treats with as
little respect conventions made by the state with foreign
powers as its own internal laws, permits individuals to
write if they think proper in a contrary sense to that of
their constitutional representatives.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 2l5
England, whose capital and credit yield such powerful
support to the commerce of the United States, ranged
first under its banners the various classes of merchants,
and especially the bankers. These establishments, which
have such an enormous influence in every commercial
country, were so many powers leagued with the federalists,
attacking and annihilating the industry of their adver-
saries. The English government distributed throughout
its fleets, and the banking houses of the three kingdoms,
lists formed by the federalists ; and thus the republican
traders of the United States, by losing their vessels and
their credit, were punished for the political opinions
which they dared to profess, even under a government
whose independence was acknowledged.
Who would imagine, that while the party in favor
of England was so active, so violent, and so powerful,
Washington would have taken upon himself the task of
denying its influence before the French Government? —
Mr. Monroe was charged with this singular commission ;
and immediately after, in the midst of the war, Washington
pretended to establish, in the face of his contemporaries and
posterity, this new maxim : that the treaty of commerce,
the most advantageous to one of two belligerent powers,
was no derogation in a neutral state to the sense of its
engagements. But such a paradox attracted the attentioii
2lG SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
of enlightened men, the error was so completely de-
monstrated, that it soon became impossible to defend
it on any principles of reason, and the only resource left
was the assertion, that there was no other alternative than
a treaty of commerce or a war with England. The mass
of the people were not at first affrighted at this alternative,
but measures were taken by degrees to decide them in favor
of the treaty. From the humble itinerant preacher to the
proud episcopalian, from the lowest usher in the meanest
school to the most celebrated orator in the legislature,
the journalists, pamphleteers, and spokesmen at clubs, all
were active in detailing the miseries of war, and exciting,
under the respectable names of religion and humanity,
the feelings of weakness, avarice, and fear.
This last expression may appear singular when applied
to a hero, and above all when we reflect how ill-founded
were these apprehensions, since it would have cost England
too high a price to have received a second lesson from
America. Engaged in a ruinous war with France,it would
have been necessary for England, in declaring war with
America, to have found a remedy for the despair of some
hundred thousands of impoverished families, who live
in England on the produce of manufactures imported into
the United States, consisting of articles of every kind,
from the dress and furniture of the inhabitants of towns
OF NORTH AMERICA. 21J
to the hatchet of the woodman and the ploughshare of
the farmer. These articles are likewise exported from
the United States to the Antilles, to all the European
Colonics, and among the Indians. The whole of these
demands would instantly have ceased, and would soon
have been supplied by thousands of manufactories raised
by degrees in the United States, or by importations from
the other nations of Europe. The payment of thirty or
forty thousand piastres, private debts due by American
merchants, would have been suspended ; more than
two thousand American privateers would have swept the
English commerce from the seas j Canada would imme-
diately have been lost; the English colonies, which draw
all their resources from the United States, would have
become vast cemiteries; and above all, France, with
whom England was at that moment deeply engaged in
war, would have gained immensely by so formidable
a junction, which the British Ministry could not have
provoked without incurring the charge of treason. Various
other considerations, which might be added, afford a
striking example, that Cabinets the most renowned for
their sagacity are not always exempt from error.
But after all, there must have been some foundation
for these fears, and this the ministerial party were
eager to explain. The devastation of part of the coast,
VOL. II. e e
2 lb SURVEY OP TUB WESTERN RIVERS
the bombardment of a few towns, and the pillage of
a few Indian hordes : such were the miserable expedients,
which, had they taken place, would have produced no
other consequence than that of inspiring eternal hatred
between the two countries ; they would have stamped
a mark of disgrace on the glory of a great nation ; and the
points they could have insured would have been too
inconsiderable and insulated to have diminished the
power or resources of the Americans. With respect to
the Indians, their most formidable tribes were in the
power of France, the rest were allies of the United
States, and the enemies they had to reckon against them
were small in number. Upon the whole, the situation
of the two countries was evidently such, that England
having very few resources and the United States many,
the hypothesis of a declaration of war from England,
that is, the attack of the weak on the strong, was an
opinion altogether absurd.
But whether it were absurd or not, it became the
prevailing opinion. — Absurdities and chimeras are the
habitual dangers of popular governments! This strange
assertion was believed, and a panic terror, that dis-
graceful malady which sometimes takes place among
na lions the most illustrious, and from which even the
Romans were not exempt, so seized on the Americans,,
OF NORTH AMERICA. 21 g
that they became seditious from fear ; and a great
number of tumultuous meetings took place, in which
this pretended salvation treaty was loudly called for.
The militia even petitioned ; and those of the most
fanatical State in the Union (Connecticut) declared them-
selves ready to march, not against the enemy of the Stale,
but against the Congress, to force its sanction. When
at length the violence of their clamours had risen to
such an height as to shelter the glory of Washington
beneath the cloke of necessity, this great man took the
pen and signed ; but it must be observed, that he sacri-
ficed, on this occasion, his own opinion to that of the
public.
According to the stipulations of this treaty, which
were as insufficient as they were humbling for the nation,
and in which the most sacred of rights, that of persons,
was sacrificed to certain state maxims of unalienable
allegiance, thousands of sailors, who had been pressed
and torn with violence from their country, were con-
strained to remain in the service of the English marine.
Scarcely was any stipulation made to prevent the execution
of arbitrary sentences relative to vessels seized on the
simple suspicion of being freighted with contraband mer-
chandise. So little value was placed on the preservation
e e 2
2 20 SURVEY OP THE WESTERN RIVERS
of the honor and respect due to the flag of a great, free,
and independent nation, that the smallest English vessel
of the royal marine had a right to visit, stop, and take
possession of a whole fleet of merchantmen. One of the
most important articles of exportation from the Southern
States, cotton, was entirely forgotten ; and the admission
to the equal navigation of the Mississipi, which was not
yet a territorial right of the United States, but only a
privilege granted them by Spain, was given up to England
without the participation of the Court of Madrid. By
this arrangement, the federal government gave hack the
privilege which it had just obtained for itself, of navi-
gating this river, to a nation which had not only renounced
it by formal treaties, but which preserved neither port
nor a single acre of land.
This treaty blasted a leaf of the laurels gained by
Washington, and which had been the recompense of so
much wisdom, prudence, and civic virtue. If the
persons who thus perfidiously influenced him, at a period
so delicate and difficult of his political life, had on the
contrary advised him to observe a firm and just neutrality
towards England, and a frie'Sily conduct towards France,,
we are led to think that he would have sullied neither
his own glory nor that of his country.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 321
Under llie successor of General Washington, Mr. Adam?,
the history of federalism presents little else than a tissue
of intrigues for the introduction of despotism. The time
in which it was possible to suppose that anj great errors
could be committed by a republican government was past ;
Mr. Adams, nevertheless, accepted the sacrifice of a law
of his country as the first incense of adulation. The
state was delivered up to him, bound as it were hand and
foot, on condition that he would satisfy first his own
hatred, and then avenge that of the federalists against the
republicans, leaving to farther examination what should
be done with the republic.
But as no formal accusation could be brought against
the republican party, this vengeance of the federalists
was directed against the cause which they supported :
liberty was attacked in its very entrenchments. The
journalists were excluded from the galleries of the Congress
by a simple order of police- and by this interdiction of
the newspapers, which in the United States fill the office
of a public magistracy, the guardian of the rights of the
people, the first blow was struck at the vitals of the.
constitution. The second was a direct law against the
liberty of the press, a right established on the altar of
this same constitution, and considered by the citizens of
every rank as the palladium of their liberty. If, indeed,
22 2 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
the unlimited liberty of the press can exist any where
without danger, it is certainly in a nation among whom
we find neither those classes who for want of other
employment are active in spreading sedition, nor those
political fanatics who by their extravagant notions attack
the fundamental principles of civilisation.
The people of the United States can be compared with
no other: composed for the most part of proprietors,
deeply imbued with principles of morality, enlightened
with respect to the interests of their country, reflecting
and deliberating always before they act, were the govern-
ment to relax, they would accelerate its progress with
wisdom and prudence. Unlike our populace in this point,
who are for the most part ignorant and corrupted,
acquainted with no basis or principle of true liberty, full
of impetuosity, acting first and then deliberating on
what ought to have been done.
This suspension of the constitution can be justified
only when it becomes a measure of public safety. In
this instance, on the contrary, it appeared to have been
made entirely an instrument of party ; for the judiciary
body, devoted to the federal interest, employed all its
influence to gratify the revenge of this faction. The
republicans unanimously disdained to involve the tribunals
in their own behalf, and chose rather, whenever they
OF NORTH AMERICA. 22D
were calumniated, to appeal to the public, than have to
reproach themselves with the sentence of a corrupted
judge.
Mr. Adams took advantage of this measure to wreak
his vengeance for his insulted dignity on some idle scrib-
bler, who had been guilty of writing a few libellous
invectives agaiust him ; but he permitted, with great
equanimity, the circulation of every kind of calumny
and abuse against Mr. Jefferson, the Vice-President, who
was treated by the federalist writers as the vilest of men,
though there are few who have equalled him either in
wisdom or virtue.
A member of Congress expiates with the ruin of his
fortune and a severe imprisonment, a letter of ceusure on
some measures of administration ; and a persecution was
commenced against Mr. Cooper of Manchester, which
would present, were it known, as barbarous a violation
of all the forms of justice as that of the inquisitions of
state and religion, which heretofore so much disgraced
Europe.
But the impatience of the federalists, and above all
the plans of Mr. Adams, required something more than
secret oppression, by patient submission to which the
citizens they hated were destined to perish, together with
the republican constitution. To effect this,, it was ncces-
2 24 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
sary lo arm, and France was held out as the pretence for
that measure.
The piracies committed by the English, and tole-
rated by the United States, in virtue of their humble
treaty of 1790, had obliged the French Government,
especially in the colonics, to put themselves on the fooling
of equality, according to the rights of nations. Mr. Adams
seized -with eagerness an opportunity of avenging this
concurrence; and in order lo affect his purpose, he caused
a decree to be passed in Congress to attack. French ships;
and to render the rupture irreconcileable, he formally
broke the alliance of 1787, notwithstanding the advan-
tageous articles which it contained for the United Slates.
The most important article of this alliance^ without
doubt, was the renunciation of France to there-acquisition
of Louisiana and Canada. In this mode, the Anglo-
federal faction destroyed with the torch of hatred the
indirect title to one of the most valuable possessions of
their country.
If the free option of peace or war had been proposed
to the French Government, as is practised among civilised
nations, the depredations in the Antilles, which afterwards
took place, would have been stopped ; nor would the
French have suffered themselves to be so deceived by
Mr. Adams's ambassadors, the courtesy of whose conduct
OP NORTH AMERICA. 225
was only to mislead with more facility ; Mr. Adams
could have found no pretence to arm by sea and land,
nor would he have dared to alarm the people with
the fear "of an invasion by the French; an invasion by
a power at fifteen hundred leagues distance, at war with
all Europe, and who were in the physical impossibility
with a ruined navy of concmering a nation, which, as
long as it remains united, must for ever be out of the
reach of danger. ,
In the same manner as Washington had excited
terror with respect to England, so Mr. Adams succeeded
in raising the war-whoop against France ; and under
pretence of this absurd invasion, the whole of the anglo-
federal party took arms, and organised themselves into
corps of volunteers. Money, places, and rewards to
support this pretended war were blindly voted by
Congress, yielding with implicit submission to the will of
Mr. Adams.
While this militia waited for an opportunity of
signalising their courage against the French, they made
a display of their bravery by numberless acts of violation
of the public peace. They were sure that no inquiries
would be made into their conduct ; nor did the President
complain of the dishonor done his party, or of the
odium with which it covered him : on the contrary,
VOL. II. f f
2 26 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
his expressive silence was a sort of encouragement to
proceed.
But what in history will mark with eternal repro-
bation the character of Mr. Adams, is the following fact :
the crew of a French frigate, * without the slightest
suspicion of the possibility of war with the United States,
seeing a frigate with American colors bear down on them,
ran in crowds on the deck to salute a vessel belonging to
a friendly^ nation. A broadside from the American frigate
covered the deck in a moment with dead and wounded !
This atrocious deed, new in the annals of war among
civilised nations, was highly applauded by Mr. Adams,
as a brave and heroic action, f
Such acts resolved at length the doubts and roused
the energies of the republican party : military bodies
and counter - associations were formed. Observers
began to doubt, in their turn, whether the Anglo-federal
legions, clerks, shopkeepers, and wholesale dealers,
notaries, and lawyers, English agents and factors, would
be capable of struggling with battalions composed of the
vigorous woodmen and robust farmers of the Western
States.
* The Insurgent, bound from France for the West In<*ia Colonies.
-}- Mr. Adams's orders must have been very precise, since the commander
of the American frigate had the character of a brave and loyal officer.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 227
What will seem incredible is, that the federalist
party, seeing this opposition, carried their extravagance
so far as to propose a separation as the means of public
safety. Rather separate than not rule was their watch-
word. The States in which the opinion respecting this
separation was the most prevalent, were' precisely those
that would have suffered the most had it taken place :
such are the States of New England, already very populous,
and of which the lands are considerably increased in
value. These States already contain inhabitants that
are not proprietors, and even poor, from whom they
are relieved by emigrations to the Western Provinces.
Circumscribed after the separation within narrow limits,
and taxed for the support of the monarchical government
for which they are so anxious, what would have been
their situation had such a measure been adopted ? It
was, however, only by way of menace, that they spoke
to the republican States of this separation, and who,
were it not for the attachment which every true American
feels for the independence of his country, might have
found powerful motives of consolation in such an event.
Ff 2
( =29 )
CHAPTER XXX.
Ancient projects of the European powers respecting Louisiana —
Means taken by Spain for preserving it — Views of England
upon Louisiana — Policy of France in ceding this colony —
Justification of France against an old reproach of the
Federalists.
VV hile the question respecting the separation in the
United States was in agitation, Spain, perceiving that the
English had established ports and compters on the Oupas,
the Catopi, the Red River, St. Peter's, and Moins River,
and thereby monopolised the fur trade of the Sioux,
Mandane, Ponca, Sauteux, and Panis nations, and were
making preparations to penetrate into other parts of
Louisiana, endeavoured by every means to take advan-
tage of these divisions of the two parties, in order to
keep the colony in its own possession. It was natural
ZOO SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
for this power to look for support from the republican
States of the north-west, alike hostile to the English and
the Federalists, and the most flattering offers were held
out to engage them to such separation. The sacrifice of
money, which Spain was resolved to make, seemed to
promise success j this was, however, rejected, as well as
every kind of political connexion. The reasons which
were alledged by the republicans for their conduct on this
occasion were, that the people possessed such indepen-
dence of spirit, that they scarcely thought themselves suffi-
ciently free under their present constitution, and that they
would despise the protection of a government, monarchical
in the metropolis, despotic in the colony, and often tyran-
nical in its administration; while, in order for suchapeoplc
as those of the North-western States to think themselves
protected, it was necessary that the protecting power
should present itself with very different resources, and far
superior energy ; that their industry would be bounded,
since it could find no increase by their intercourse with
Spain j and upon the whole, that the people had judg-
ment enough to discern, that a power which can scarcely
maintain its own possessions, would be unable to guard
those of others. It was in consequence of this negociation,
that the court of Spain has for some time past opened all
the avenues into Upper Louisiana to the Americans,
OP NORTH AMERICA. 20 1
exciting them to emigration by offering them lands for
nothing : but what appears inexplicable is, that this
measure has not been extended to Lower Loujsiana^rhere
the passage of the river and all kind of settlement on the
right side are absolutely forbidden.
Could Spain imagine that the Americans who might
occupy Upper Louisiana would be more faithful and less
dangerous than those who should dwell in the lower
parts? or was this limit placed in order to keep them from
the road which leads to New Mexico ? On either of these
suppositions, the conduct of Spain was erroneous ; since
a despotic government ought never to place its confidence
in subjects influenced by the love of liberty; and because,
on this hypothesis, it is much more dangerous to suffer
them to occupy the heights than the plains.
England, after a Avar as useless as it was expensive,
and still determined to reduce the United States to obe-
dience, flattered herself that she should soon find the means
by diplomatic agency to break down the walls which
she had hitherto been unable to shake. An embassy was
organised at the peace ; but this embassy soon degraded
its character, by the adoption of measures tending to the
establishment of the project it had in view. As soon as
it was perceived that swarms of this new republican
people were thronging to inhabit the fertile country which
20 2 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
borders the Mississipi, it was conceived that these vast
waters becoming as essential to the States forming in the
west,^ those of the Atlantic were to the other States,
the power that was master of Louisiana might one day
become master of these States also. History will disclose
the intrigues which then took place. We have men-
tioned that only of which Blount was the contriver, and
which Mr. Adams's friendship was anxious to conceal from
his countrymen, to whom, nevertheless, it was highly
important that it should be known, in order to discri-
minate between their friends and their enemies.
It was natural also for the English Government to
covet so line a possession on various accounts. The
exhausted state of the soil of Jamaica would necessarily
lead the English capitalists to wish for the accruisilion of
Lower Louisiana, the fertility of which might procure
them the greatest advantage for the employment of their
funds. Supplies of wood, corn, cattle,, and provisions
for the whole of the Antilles, might be furnished from
Upper Louisiana. In the hands of English merchants, the
fur trade and other commerce with the Indians would
become a vast and lucrative monopoly. The Southern
Sea being in some sort under their direction, favored
their trade with Siain, Cochin China, Japan, and even
Bengal : New Orleans, through which flow all the rivers
OF NORTH AMERICA. 230
of the immense bason which forms the middle of North
America, might have become one of the first commercial
cities of the world, as the storehouse only of the exporta-
tions of the United States: a maritime arsenal, in short,
supplied with the timber of Florida, would have formed
a military post, commanding the colonies of the rest of the
European powers, and seizing on such as might best suit
its convenience. These projects have now vanished, and
the idea of Louisiana becoming an English possession is
like a vision which disappears at the dawn of day.
The conviction at present of the weakness of every
ultramarine power to maintain itself in Louisiana against
the will of the United States, has determined the French
cabinet to cede to this power that colony, which it had
received from Spain ; and of which, if the possession
could have been secured, France would have discovered
the means sooner than England, since it could more easily
have permitted a larger emigration j while the country
itself was peopled with inhabitants who spoke the same
language and felt the same affections, independently of
a still greater number who would have come from
Canada. The long and steady service of the troops would
have supplied the means of speedily recruiting the number
of its soldiers ; France would have had the support of the
VOL. II. g g
2 34 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
Spanish colonies, the old friendship of the Indian nations,
many families of which were formerly united by ties of
marriage with the French, and whom therefore they
considered as brethren : but, above all, France had for its
ally against the United States, this nation itself; that is
to say, the party of the Tories or Federalists, who were
desirous of a separation and anxious for an hereditary
government, but who desired it only for their own
exclusive and proper advantage, and without subjection.
How easy would it have been for France to have gained
over this faction, in case of need; and, if the internal
interests of the colony had been ably directed, it would
soon have acquired strength by its own means, and would
have ensured its safety by its courage alone.
We must, however, admit that it would not have
been easy to maintain such a system for a length of time.
The defensive means of France might not have been of
long duration, since they would have been weakened
fatally by the slightest error which should have been
committed : nor could the French reasonably hope to be
enabled to make a long resistance to so vigorous a mass
of people as that of the United States; the invasion of
the colony would have taken place sooner or later, and
its loss would have been as disastrous, after all the expense
it would have cost, as a failure would have been disgraceful.
OP NORTH AMERICA. 235
The cession, therefore, of Louisiana is the result of
profound policy.
With respect to the glory of France, as she makes this
sacrifice not under a government habituated to disgraceful
treaties, but under that of heroism, posterity as well as
contemporaries will see nothing in this act of cession but
a rare example in history, of that of an homage which
wisdom pays to destiny. Let us remark, also, in support
of the cession, that the cabinets of Choiseul andVergennes,
which,, in times when calumny was called history and
persecution republicanism, were so often unjustly censured,
gave up all pretensions to this colony, and that with so
much facility that they were no doubt actuated by strong
reasons of state. The former of these Ministers was
perfectly persuaded that so many colonies of different
nations, mingling along so enormous an extent of the same
continent, could not live together in peace j and it appears
also that Franklin had so clearly convinced the Ministers
of Lewis XVI. of the great impolicy of endeavouring to
regain Louisiana or Canada, that no trace is found of any
opposition to the renunciation of these colonies, which he
solicited and obtained. Affairs would have remained on
this footing, if the Federalists in the blindness of their
fury had not broken the alliance of 1785. It is to this
faction, therefore, that the United States owe the sacrifices
Gg 2
2 56 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
they have been forced to make, in order to obtain from
France the cession of Louisiana.
France, by the treaty of 1786, had certainly renounced
all pretension to any acquisition in North America, and
consequently to Louisiana ; but this treaty lost all its force
when it was first mutilated by the Congress. The French
Republic, from the moment of its institution, offered to
represent the King in its transactions with the United
States •; but the Congress appeared scrupulously uncertain
whether it could acknowledge in another nation the sacred
right of resuming the exercise of sovereignty, and held
itself bound by a guarantee of an interest purely national,
given to a preceding government.
It was from such fallacious reasonings, and a pretended
conflict of duties, that Washington was authorised to take
an advantage, and to take it somewhat usuriously. He
did so, by purchasing from the French government, in
favor of the payment of a debt not yet due, the annul-
ling one of the principal articles of the treaty, the
guarantee of the Antilles. In this manner he pleaded
the necessity of circumstances, in order to exempt himself
from a great by the performance of a trivial duty. It
surely was not the small sum of two or three millions of
piastres, which could indemnify France for the guarantee
of its islands, on which the English then could have no
OP NORTH AMERICA. 2^7
pretensions ; and its forced consent to so inadequate a
compensation ought not to prevent us from censuring this
infraction of an alliance purchased with so much expense
of blood and treasure. This guarantee being in short the
only essential advantage which France gained in return
for those she granted, the United States ought to have
considered the Republic, from the time of the refusal of
the guarantee, as having entered, as far as respects them-
selves, into all its antecedent rights and claims on the
colonies of North America, and have felt that the silence
which was observed was only the effect of that reserve
which circumstances rendered necessary.
The treaty of commerce with England in 1796 at
length took place, which must be reprobated as a violation
not only of the alliance with France, but also of that
neutrality which the United States had purchased so
cheaply, and which was so ill observed. The admission
of the English into the Mississipi proved that the govern-
ment of the United States was in the interests of the
British cabinet ; and that the government of France
ought no longer to be the dupe of its renunciation in the
treaty of 1786 ; that it should begin to take measures of
safety, and not refuse the preference for the possession of
Louisiana, half of which was already occupied by the
English posts, threatening a speedy invasion of the other.
( s39
CHAPTER XXXL
New relations of the European nations with the United States
after the cession of Louisiana — France — England — Navigation
of the Mississipi — Emigration from Canada — Renewal of the
treaty of ijg5 with England — Observations on New Mexico —
Straits of Panama — Advantages to Spain in adhering to
the republican party — Natives.
V rom the junction of Louisiana with the United States,
the friends of peace may perceive, in the new relations
of this power with France, the most happy consequences ;
and we are led at the same time to throw a glance on
the situation of those powers with respect to Spain and
England.
After having ceded Louisiana, it must he admitted
that France can never wish to regain possession of
240 SURVEY OE THE WESTERN RIVERS
Canada ; a country more burdensome than profitable to
an European power from its bad position, since the great
inconvenience of this colony is the having but one outlet,
the river St. Lawrence, which is also choked up seven
months in the year by the ice. If England perseveres in
keeping possession of this colony in defiance of the
American colonies, France, better counselled, will hence-
forth maintain with the United States neither the relations
of a frontier nor a rival power, but only such as may
result from the peaceable intercourse of trade, the balance
of which is and always will be in favor of the United
States, and which they themselves will naturally be
anxious to encourage. If, however, in the course of
time, they should perceive that we are resolved to esta-
blish ourselves as the avengers of the injured rights of
maritime nations, who could serve them better than our-
selves in support of a cause which becomes principally
their own, since they hold the highest rank among the
nations who navigate under a neutral flag. Moreover,
when the question of a separation in the United States
shall again be brought forwards by the Federalists, under
the pretence of new acquisitions which throw still far-
ther back the frontiers of the state, or that of delays and
irregularities in an internal administration so extensive,
will it be France or England who shall be most anxious
OF NORTH AMERICA. ll^l
to stifle that dangerous party and to insure the integrity
of the Republick? And lastly is it to be supposed that
England, who may have friends or emissaries in almost
every family of the United States, will not employ all those
means of influence to renew the trials which already have
been made for the abolition of a part or of the whole Re-
publick? It appears therefore impossible in our eyes, that
the United States, under an enlightened administration,
should, through an erroneous system, forget all those perils
and neglect the political friendship of the only foreign na-
tion, whose preponderancy, when the present war is brought
to an end, will be sufficient to shelter them from the effects
of any hostile demonstrations on the side of England.
In that respect we can not help repeating, that England,
the enemy of the United States, before* and after the cession
of Louisiana, will for ever remain so, were she even to
abandon all her possessions on the continent of America.
Between two nations who own the same extraction, and
who differ only by local habitation and by some slight dis-
tinctions, is always to be found one of the two opposite
feelings which exist in private families, love or hatred, but
never indifference. As long as the constitution of Engiand
remains monarchical, that nation will never give up the idea
of reconquering those colonies, the ancient property of their
ancestors. But if the consequences of the pretensions of En-
VOL. II. H h
a^2 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
gland were to amount to open war, is it not most probable to
suppose that she will be forced to submit to the natural supe-
riority which the United States will draw from the regular
augmentation of their population, and from the wealth of that
population whose properties are unincumber'd with loans
and poor rates?
Numerous difficulties will incessantly arise, as to the line of
demarcation betwixt Canada and Louisiana, as it draws towards
the Pacific Ocean. Will England remain in possession of the va-
rious ports and factories for the fur trade which she at present
occupies? What stipulations will take place in regard to the navi-
gation on the Mississipi, to a share of which the United States
admitted England by the treaty of 1795? And lastly, will the
migrations of the inhabitants of the United States to Canada
be suffered to continue to the extent they at present have
obtained? We shall pass by the first question, as requiring us
to inter into particulars unfit for the present work, but we
shall for a moment fix our attention on the other points.
It is contrary to the adopted policy of nations to allow
strangers the interior navigation of their respective states ;
and both the banks of the Mississipi, together with all'the
lands through which it flows, belonging at present to the
United States, it is clear that the data are no more what
they were at the time of the first concession, when the
upper part of the left bank was alone in the hands of
OF NORTH AMERICA.
43
the Republick. But notwithstanding the principle of general
policy, we may suppose that the private wishes of the in-
habitants of that part of the country, will be against the
interdiction : because the exclusion of English vessels would
deprive them of a considerable competition, and thereby, at
the same time, diminish the price of the exportation, and aug-
ment that of the importation goods, limited as they would
be, to the monopoly of the small local trade r in that
case, Congress might perhaps think prudent to sacrifice the
general principle to such a superior advantage, if claimed
by the states which border the Mississipi ; and the navigation
of that river might then not only be allowed to the En-
glish, but also opened to the merchantmen of every foreign
nation.
The last point concerning the migrations to Canada is also
of great importance. Congress, it has already been observed ,
sell their lands and sell them at a high price, no less than
two dollars par acre, while the English government offers
them for nothing. The lands thus given away are, it is true,
generally of an inferior quality; those of Congress to the
contrary most commonly good, owing partly to the difference
of the climate, which is much less severe than above the great
lakes; but the poor who are too often led astray by motives
of self-interest, contemplate only the advantage of cultivating
lands which have cost them no purchase price : none but a
hIi 1
244 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
small number among them being able to consider that the
ceconomy in the price of labour*, the multiplicity, variety, and
above all the abundance of the crops, not only compensate
for, but even from the very first year may exceed the two
dollars each acre would have cost. In the second year the
farmer, now proprietor of land situated towards the . south,
on the best soil and in the finest climate of the United States,
may boast of advantages for superior to any of those which
the husbandman in the cold grounds of Canada can enjoy**.
On the other hand if even the advantages were real, they
can be of no long duration : for the distinction which England
offerts to the new Canadian settlers by submitting them to
a small share only of the publick burdens is a momentary cir-
cumstance which will speedily cease. Some governments do
adopt that plan when they wish to augment or create their
population at the expense of a neighbouring state; but they
seldom persist in it, and we have no doubt that England
* The states of the West enjoy a difference of 5o pr. c'. in their
favor above those of the North, on the Costs of clearing the land.
** The chief inconvenience of the lands situated too far to the north,
is that the farmer being obliged to feed his cattle on dry food during
the seven winter months, consumes all he has been reaping in the five
summer months : this is not the case in the more genial climate of
the western states, where the cattle is never shut up.
OF NORTH AMERICA.. 245
will have reason to repent, if she continues to act according
to that system.
In the mean while should the United States feel their pride
or their interest hurt by the preference their citizens give
to a foreign country above their own, they may be comforted
by the idea that sooner or later they will recover these
emigrants with the country they inhabit.
Besides the differences which have been noticed concerning
the boundaries, many others will arise in regard to trade and
navigation, the seeds of which are all comprehended in the
treaty of 179^. We have seen that the apprehension of a
war was the only incitement on the side of the United
States to the conclusion of a treaty so replete with humi-
liating conditions, and it is to be hoped that at the expi-
ration of that treaty in 1807, the nation will profit of the
alarms of the English, abolish those conditions and create
new branches of trade with their neighbours.
Louisiana , in the hands of Spain, was of no other use
but as one of those great devastations which in barbarous
wars serve to put a considerable distance between a dange-
rous enemy and one's self : that it is to say that it served
to separate the United States from Mexico by a vast un-
cultivated country ; and the Spanish treasury instead of reaping
any profits from the colony, made the same yearly sacrifices
as England does for Canada : but a very essential difference
246 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
obtains between these two colonies in a military respect:
Canada being an offensive post somewhat like a tete de pont
on a rival territory, whilst Louisiana served only to shelter
Spain from an attack in the heart of her richest colonies.
Consequently as long as Spain remained in possession of
Louisiana, one of her chief objects was to hide from the
Americans whatever attractions the country might have for
them : in the first place the mines it possesses, and secondly
the facility of its communication with Mexico. The knowledge
of the road by land was kept a secret, as if it were a sort of
a state mystery. That road is safe and short through upper
Louisiana, following back the Ossage and Arkansa rivers till
near Santa Fe ; while the roads through lower Louisiana are
extremely dangerous and in a great manner impracticable
after four and twenty hours rain.
I cannot conclude without making some observations on
the consequences this new extension of the territory of the
United States may have on the original inhabitants of the
country. The different compacts by which the European or co-
lonial powers have till now acknowledged their mutual rights
on the lands situated in the interior of North America,
cannot be considered as absolute cessions of property. Thus,
for example, a great part of Louisiana consists of lands which
have not yet been obtained from the natives who live upon
them : and in regard to those lands the United States have
OF NORTH AMERICA. 247
undoubtedly only acquired the right of preemption, that is
to say an exclusive privilege to purchase them. Many other
interior lands which the United States had placed in their
former geographical circumscription have likewise no other
legal value, and resemble the patent by wich pope Eugenius
the fourth gave to the crown of Portugal all the discoveries
it would make from the North Cape to the continent of
the East Indies. No more do the records at Washington
than the European ones, contain any charter of succession
granted by the Indians for all the countries which at pre-
sent form the immense domain the United States have
attributed to themselves : the only deeds to be found are
some parties evacuation of states already colonized and con-
firmed by treaties with the natives. But the rest can only
be acquired by force or money.
In making these observations we have no other aim than
to give an idea of the nature of the transactions which
take place in respect to those countries, and it is far from
our intention to throw any doubt on the legitimacy of
the transactions already made, or to suggest the possibility
of dangerous difficulties in regard to future ones.
After the Indians had either abandoned gratuitously or sold
to the Europeans the land for their small settlements, they
soon discovered that the white people would not be satisfied
with a circumscribed district, but coveted the whole country.
248 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS-
Then they began to repent, and often expressed among
themselves their sorrow at having delivered up for the
paltry consideration of a few dollars, some fire -locks, stuffs
or pernicious spirits, « the soil where rested the bones of
« their fathers, and where once their sons had hoped to
« hunt or to fight. » But those Indians resembled in this the
more civilized nations of Europe. They moralized in their
speeches, and lacked the courage to follow their own precepts.
But if on the one hand the legal deeds of property of the
colonial powers on a great part of the lands in the interior
of America are still to be acquired, it must be owned, on the
other, that the natives themselves hold their lands by a very
precarious tenure, their right being no other than that of the
first occupier : for, wholly different in this respect from the
ancient Mexicans and Peruvians, they have neither melio-
rated nor cultivated the soil; they have built no cities nor
constructed any publick works. Very few among them are
herdsmen though the country is very favorable to the
reasing of flocks; instead of converting to the benefit of
the community the rich soil of their fine country, they
overrun it only in the character of hunters. To no society
of man hath nature granted the right of wasting in the like
manner any part of the globe, whilst other men claim it
with a view to give the land its true destination, and seek
through its produce their own subsistence. A single family
OF NORTH AMERICA. 249
of these hunters occupies a space, which in Europe would
be sufficient to insure to one or two thousand persons an
honest livelihood by agriculture or any other useful industry.
No pretension is better founded on justice than that of
cultivating nations on lands thus abusively possessed. But
the United States not being at present in the necessity of
extending their cultivation, it is no more than right that
they should equitably indemnify the Indians that shall
leave Louisiana at their desire, and particularly as these
Indians, in seeking others deserts, will to all probability have
bloody wars to wage with the tribes they will find already
established there, and who will not tamely submit to divide
their chase with the new comers.
And let not the friend of humanity fear that if, in the
course of time, those obstinate hunters were to turn hus-
bandmen, the encroachments of their white neighbours
would have deprived them of soil sufficient for their
wants. It is but too true that by disorders, debauchery
and war, their numbers decrease in a much greater pro-
portion than the inhabitants of the United States do aug-
ment; and more than one of those small nations has so
far disappeared as to live at present only in the recollection
of their neighbours. Besides, by far the greater part of
those Indians, like all other savage nations, prefer with an
invincible obstinacy their manner of living to ours, and
VOL. II. i i
25o SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
there is no probable reason for supposing that they ever
will be tempted to exchange the one for the other.
I shall conclude these modest observations of a traveller
by a short survey of the happiness enjoyed by the in-
habitants of the American Republick, a happiness far superior
in my eyes to any which ever fell to the lot of an ancient
or modern nation, and owing to the circumstance without
precedent, that no one class of people in any way useful
to the community have the smallest reason to complain of
their situation ; the slaves, in those states where they do
exist, being an exception which does not destroy the general
rule.
The journeyman, one of the most unfortunate members
of our political societies in Europe, obtains in America so
advantageous a price for his labour, that he may, with some
few privations, live the whole week on the produce of two
or at most three days work; in some cases one day has
proved sufficient. The women of the lower classes, who
in Europe do not by far enjoy the same wages as the men,
are here on a much more equal footing with them, and can on
all occasions gain sufficient for their support. The artisan and
manufacturer, having no other competition to fear but that
of the European goods, the price of which is enhanced by the
distance, the multiplied profits of the tradespeople, and the
duties of the national customs, are also sure of considerable
OF NORTH AMERICA. 201
profit on their handycraft. Lastly the husbandman is enabled
to purchase a virgin soil for a price so trifling, that, with a
little ceconomy on the day labour of a too refined cultiv-
ation, he may with ease enjoy four times the income of
an European farmer, while his land gains a ten or twenty
fold value in an equal number of years. Such is the fate,
such are the comforts men enjoy in that happy country,
where alone can be applied with truth the observation of
Montesquieu, that a poor man is not he who possesses
nothing, but he who does not work.
252 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
CHAPTER XXXII.
Of the Limits. — General Principles. — Disadvantages of imaginary
Lines. — Greater still in the distant Countries. — The Lines drawn
by Nature are the only good ones. — Inaccuracy in the Expressions
of the Treaty of 1783. — The Line which divides the Lakes is false.
— Plan for fixing the Boundaries. — Equity of the proposed Line.
Une of the chief objects of treaties of peace, when con-
cluded between wise and upright nations, is to avoid future
wars, or at least to delay their return as long as human
foresight can permit.
According to that principle, the stipulations by which the
respectives boundaries of the different empires are to be
determined, are undoubtedly those which ought to draw
the chief attention of their Governments.
OF NORTH AMERICA.. 253
Experience has at present sufficiently demonstrated that
all imaginary lines, whatever care be taken to describe them
with exactness, or to trace them on maps, become on the
slightest occasion a source of contest between Governments,
of troubles and warfare between Nations.
It is not sufficient for the Governments to know their limits,
or even to be able, in case of need, to determine them anew
by the help of instruments; the people who live near the
frontiers of the bordering countries, must also know their
boundaries well enough to avoid all possible mistakes : other-
wise those boundaries may be continually violated without
any hostile views, and may moreover offer frequent oppor-
tunities to ambitious Governments of invading and usurping
on their neighbour's territory.
The danger arising from uncertain limits is incomparably
greater in colonies, situated at a considerable distance from
the mother country. The most fatal strifes may have place
between the inhabitants, before the necessary steps can be
taken to prevent them and put an end to the main contest
by an equitable decision.
The lines traced by Nature, which are the course of rivers
or well marked chains of mountains, are those which ought
to be chosen for demarcation lines. There is nothing fic-
titious in them ; they are firm, immutable, known by every
body without the aid of mathematical operations. No one
254 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
can infringe them without a determination to do so, and
ignorance can furnish no pretences to dishonesty.
All those necessary conditions of evidence, in demarcation
lines between the territories of different powers, were over-
looked or neglected in fixing the limits between the English
possessions and Louisiana, and the limits between the
United States, the English possessions and Louisiana.
At the peace of 1^83 there were no well informed men
living in Canada or in the Western States but who knew
that the sources of Mississipi are situated more than two
degrees below the most southern part of the Lake of the
Woods. And it has nevertheless been established by the
second article of the treaty between England and the United
States, that the possession of the two powers should be
divided by a line drawn from the extremity of the Lake
of the Woods and running due west until it meets the
Mississipi river. In this article therefore we see the chief
inconvenience of a fictitious line, of which no exact points
determine the direction, added to the greatest incorrectness
and the most complete ignorance of locality. For in follow-
ing this imaginary line in the given direction, we would
arrive at the Pacific ocean without having met with any
of the branches of the Mississipi.
The imaginary line running through the middle of the
lakes Ontario, Erie etc. etc., is no less fallacious than the
OF NORTH AMERICA.
255
one already mentioned. The vessels navigating on those
lakes can never be certain whether they are within or
without their respective boundaries, and that line is con-
sequently no better than a deception. The most natural
limits of maritime powers are at the distance of a cannon
shot from their mutual shores ; all other pretensions are
founded neither on nature nor on justice.
Where islands are to be found they offer real fixed points,
and their property must be determined according to the
coast the nearest to which they are placed.
If a topographical knowledge of the country and the
inspection of a map were not sufficient to show that the
limits between Canada and the United States were from
the beginning ill determined, the perpetual quarrels which
arise between the inhabitants of the two frontiers, the re-
peated unsatisfactory explanations between the two Govern-
ments and the sending of commissaries, every now and
then, to settle the differences, would be clear proofs of what
we have advanced.
Not having determined which of the two Sain te- Croix
rivers (there being two which bear the same name at a few
leagues distance from one another ) was to form the bound"
ary, is a first cause of obscurity, and the line to be drawn
from the sources of that river to the hills which divide
the waters that run in the Atlantic ocean from those
2 56 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
that flow in the river St Lawrence, is so confused and
vague a determination that each of the two parties may ex-
plain it according to his private interest. The most natural,
and clearest limit would be the St John's river in all its length,
then the Pistole river, or the riviere des Phases, which are
no more than a mile or two from the sources of the St John,
and lastly the river St Lawrence till the lake Ontario. , By
those means no arbitrary interpretations could take place, and
the difference of territory in favor of the United States
would be fully compensated in favor of England, by the
possession of boundaries traced as it were by Nature herself.
Should, however, England not wish to abandon so consider-
able a territory, nevertheless the St John's river ought to have
been or still to be chosen for the limits, because its course is
the longest, and its sources are so near the hills which divide
the waters and which, by the treaty, are in fact the demarca-
tion line between Canada and the United States, that posts
or a ditch or any marks whatever may be placed with ease
and at a small expense.
I have already shown that the north-west boundary
between the English possessions and the United States is
absolutely false. It is at the high country situated on
the plateau A that the point should have been fixed, for
there the grand distribution of the waters takes place,
the northern ones running towards the Frozen sea, the
OF NORTH AMERICA. ^5^
eastern ones to the Atlantic, and the southern to the
Mexican gulph*.
The line ought therefore not to have gone farther than
the most western part of the lake Superior, to have fol-
lowed West bay, mounted the river Saint-Louis to its source,
and from thence gained Cold river, which is separated from
the former only by a short carrying-place of two miles and
whose waters fall into the Mississipi.
That demarcation would be the more equitable as it would
give the Americans the sources of all the rivers that water
their territory, and an uninterrupted outlet from the north
to the south in the Mexican gulph, the eastern bank of the
Mississipi being, from Cold river to Florida, the boundary
between the possessions of H. M. Cath. Majesty and the
United States**.
* The possession of this plateau will be the future cause of great
bloodshed unless the powers who divide this continent take very wise
precautionary measures.
** If the government of the United States be wise, now that they possess
Louisiana, they will take great care not to exceed the limits, traced
to them by nature, I mean the Mississipi. As for Florida instead
of adding that country to their new acquisitions, they may endeavour
to get it from Spain as an exchange for their possessions on the right
bank of the Mississipi.
According to all reports, the population of America doubles every twenty
VOL. II. K. k
258 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
As to the Islands scattered oa the surface of the river,
they are all very low, uninhabitable and can never create
the smallest difficulty, neither of the two nations having the
least interest in their possession.
years. I even think that by reckoning the immigrations from Europe, that
calculation is rather below the mark, but I am far from thinking that
her power augments in the same proportion, as she daily acquires lands
far beyond what the increase of her population might require.
The United States have already too much land. The southern and
central States have immense possessions in their backs, which by the
quality of the soil and the beauty of the climate attract continual
settlers. But such is the character of man ; in the midst of the greatest
opulence, he never thinks himself rich enough.
By the manner the Americans disperse, and sell their settlements, as
soon as they find an opportunity, it would seem that their immense
territories appear still too small for them. Virginia migrates to Ken-
tucky; Georgia to Tennessee; the northern and western states to both:
Kentucky situated in the midst of the desarts emigrates already to
the Miamies and there seeks the lakes, the streights, and even the
Missouri. Thusby extending they continually weaken themselves. This
goes so far that in some parts of the western states which have the
name of being inhabited, you may run over espace of a hundred
square miles without finding five hundred men able to bear arms,
and when formed, all these small bodies would have the greatest trouble
to rejoin an account of the difficulty and scarcity of roads and
provisions.
We learn by history that the northern nations have at all times
OF NORTH AMERICA. 295
The disposition I have proposed not giving to the Ame-
ricans any part of the lands water'd by the rivers which
run towards Hudson's bay or the Frozen sea, would pre-
vent for the future all those numerous contests and discus-
sions which soon or late cannot fail to draw the people
in wars without end.
conquered those of the south. From this fact we may draw an in-
ference as to the advantage which the northern and eastern states, who
join the English possessions in Canada and who have a tendency to a
monarchical government, shall one day possess over the western and
southern ones. Their population is more concentrated; the Canadians,
with whom they probahly will unite, are a hardy and courageous people;
they possess the sources of all- the rivers which run to the south. What
means shall the southern states have to defend themselves in case of
an attack, if they continue to scatter their subjects as they now do,
effeminate as they will be by the effects of luxury and a warm climate?
The modern Tartars of America will come down upon them with
the waters of their rivers and conquer them with facility.
To those state reasons motives of personal interest may be added.
In the United States of America, every head of a family possessing
a little fortune and some foresight, never fails to purchase lands in
the interior, in the expectation that their value will be annually en-
hanced by the increase alone of the population, and hoping to leave by
that means an independant fortune to his children. Those lands are still
at a very low price on account of the immense possessions the United
States have recently acquired in the Miamis and in Indiana. What
K.li 2
260 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
All that part of the continent being absolutely unknown
at the time the last peace was concluded, it was mutually
acknowledged that no line of limits could be determined,
admitting even the same inaccuracy as in the former case.
Its determination was therefore left to some later time.
England has since then made her profit of this state of
indetermined demarcation, and the agents of her trade as
well as her troops have pushed forward till near the sources
of the Missouri.
But though few enlightened travellers have as yet pene-
trated in those vast solitudes, still a number of individuals
have visited them sufficient to give a full knowledge of the
direction of the mountains and of the course of the waters.
will be the consequence if once the Americans have no limits? and
this will certainly be the case if ever ihey pass the river. The popu-
lation will sink to nothing in an incommensurable space of land;. they
will wander here and there; the soil will have no value; the difference
of climates and interests, and the distance they will be from the su-
preme authorities, will speedily dispose the minds to reject them and
to rend asunder the ties by which even at present they are but too
slightly bound.
The western states, prompted by self-interest as well as by reason,
ought therefore to stop their progress and to concentrate between the
lakes and the Mississipi, if they wish to keep up their independance
and not to be one day conquered, deceived or destroyed.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 261
In the year 1789 Mackenzie penetrated to the Frozen
sea by following the course of the rivers, and in tracing
his route, he may be said to have marked as truly the
line which ought to separate upper Louisiana from upper
Canada, as if he had travelled for that purpose alone.
That line must begin where the limits of the United
States finish, that is to say on the lake Superior at the
point where the great carrying place begins; it must then
follow towards the north that long suite of small lakes
which form 72 carrying places ; from thence gain the lake
of the Woods; from the lake of the Woods follow the wa-
ters which join that lake to the lake Winiping. Then to
the lake of the Cedar, gain the Delicious, Pin and Beaver
lakes, till the carrying place called 370 toises, were the
waters that fall in Hudson's bay separate from those which
run to the Frozen sea. Then follow the Churchill river, the
White Bear and Buffalo lakes, the Arabasca river, the Ara-
basca lake, the river of the Slaves lake, and lastly the
river which falls in the Frozen sea. See Mackenzie's ge-
neral Map.
That line would be natural, simple and founded on
the most equitable basis. Both England and Spain would
enjoy, as to lands and navigation whatever they have a
right to expect, and all pretences for future misunder-
standing would be effectually removed. It is needless to
262 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
own that those reflections and particulars are no more
than general ideas which require to be cleared up and
perhaps rectified on the spot. But the writer is convinced
that they are founded on principles the truth of which
and consequently the wise policy must remain undisputed.
OF NORTH AMERICA. ^63
CHAPTER XXXIIL
Military Topography. — Of the Frontiers which must one day serve for
Barriers between the Western States and those of the Atlantic. —
Projected Line of Frontiers. — First part.— Second part. — Third
part. — Fourth part. — Roads by which it is cut. — Point where they
end. — Line of Operations . — Right line. — Center line. — Left line.
— They have all the same defiles to cross. — Advantages of the
Right line. — Difficulties of the Center line. — Advantages of the Left
line above the center one. — Comparative Force of those Frontiers.
— First position. — Second position. — Third position. — Fourth
position. — Observation on the Choice of a Place to serve as a Depot.
— Face of the country from Knoxville to the sea. — No Roads. —
Conclusion. — The advantages of this Frontier are not only military-
— Probable Fate of the Atlantic States.
In beginning the following chapter I expect my readers to lay-
before their eyes a detailed map of that part of America , and
to recall with attention to their memory the description we
have given of part of the Alleghany mountains, of the course
264 SURVEY OF THE "WESTERN RIVERS
of the Ohio, of the Mississipi, and of the ports which are to
be found on its two banks. They must *also suppose the
Western states separated from those of the Atlantic. Without
those preliminaries, the following contents would appear un-
intelligible to them.
My intention is not to enter in minute particulars respect-
ing military positions and camps. This would require a greater
knowledge of the country than I possess, and would besides
be superfluous, as the choice of camps depends on the move-
ments of the enemy and on a thousand other circumstances.
I only wish to show in general how the Western states may,
in case of need, defend themselves and at the same time cover
Louisiana.
The principal or absolute strength of a frontier depends
on the natural obstacles it opposes to the advance of an
enemy : such as hills, rivers, woods, passes, etc.
The comparative strength consists in its distance from
the depots and from the magazines the army is to defend,
in the number of points on which it is vulnerable and in
its position in regard to the line of operations, it being a
general rule that the shorter the line on which an army
operates, the more chance it has of getting the better of
its adversary.
The natural line which the Western states must adopt
for their limits and barrier, commences at the falls of the
OF NORTH AMERICA. 265
Niagara and runs from thence in a more or less inclined
direction to the bay of Appalache, following the plateaux
or the hills which divide the waters of the Atlantic from those
of the Mexican gulph.
I shall divide this line in four parts, in relation to the diffe-
rent points on which it may be attacked by the Atlantic states.
The first part extends from Niagara to the pass of the Ju-
niata and crosses the Plateau called Twenty three miles,
by which the waters of the river Alleghany are divided from
those of the Susquehana, from whence it runs to the begin-
ningor visible part of the Alleghany mountains. This part co-
vers the country watered by the Alleghany from its source
to Pittsburg. Its length is about 2.S0 miles.
In the second part, the line follows the tops of the hills,
cuts the pass of Sweetspring and goes to Montgomery's court
house, near the sources of the great Ranhaway. It covers the
part of Virginia situated between the mountains and the
river Ohio, which is watered by the Monongahela and the
little Ranhaway. Its length is about 240 miles.
In the third part, the frontier line begins at Mongomery's
court house, and continues following the tops of the mountains
till the sources of the river Appalache, at the point where the
hills turn to divide the waters of the Mobile from those of the
river Appalache. This part covers all the country watered by the
rivers Cumberland and Tennessee : it is about 260 miles long.
vol. 11. l1
266 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
In the fourth, the line follows the river Appalache from
its sources to the point where it falls in the Mexican gulph.
This part covers the countries of the Areks, the Cherokees,
the Chactaws and the Chickasaws, the lands formerly claimed
by the United States, situated between the 32d and 3ist de-
grees of latitude and Western Florida. Its lenght is about
38o miles.
This frontier line, the whole length of which surpasses
four hundred leagues, has no more than seven roads on
which a body of troops can act.
The first road comes from Pennsylvania and goes to
Pittsburg. It begins at Philadelphia and passes by Lancaster,
Carlisle, Shippenburg and Bedfort.
The second comes from Maryland and goes also to Pitts-
burg. It begins at Baltimore, passes through Frederick'stown,
Hagerstown, Cumberland fort and Bedfort, where it joins
the great communication from Pennsylvania.
The third comes from Virginia and goes to Kentucky.
It begins at Bichmond, passes by Charlotte'stown, Hauuton,
Hotspring, Sweetspring, to the sources of Green river; follows
the waters of that river, those of the great Kanhaway and
of the 'Ohio , going from thence to the state of Kentucky.
The fourth comes also from Virginia, but takes the di-
rection of the state of Tennessee. It begins, like the former, at
Bichmond, crosses Powhalton, Prince Edward, New London,
OF NORTH AMERICA. 267
Liberty, Bighick, Montgommery's court house, Wythe, Alding-
ton and Knoxville.
The fifth comes from North Carolina and goes also to Ten-
nessee. It begins at Raleigh, Hillsborough, Martin'stown, Salem,
Bethania, Grayson, and falls at Abington in the great com-
munication of Virginia with Tennessee.
The sixth. comes from South Carolina. It begins at Co-
lombia, passes by Wimesborough, Pinckneytown, Spartan,
Morgantown, Buncomb, Servier's court house, follows the
right bank of French broad river, and falls at Jefferson in
the high road from Virginia to Tennessee.
The seventh comes from Georgia. It begins at Augusta,
passes through Peterborough, Elberton, Franklin, Pendleton,
Greenville, and falls above Morgan'stown in the road that
comes from South Carolina.
Each of these roads is fit for carriages and is traversed
by cross roads which communicate from one state to another.
By what has been said of these roads falling into one another,
it may be seen that the points where this frontier line may
be attacked, are only three in number, viz : the sources of
the Ohio, those of the great Kanhaway and those of the river
Tennessee. The first we shall call the right line, the second the
center line, and last the left line.
Philadelphia and Baltimore are, on the right line, the points
from which the enemy must depart. The distance from these
Lla
268 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
two cities to the nearest part of the western frontiers is
120 miles.
Richmond is the point of departure of the center line.
It lays at 400 miles from the frontier.
Raleigh , Colombia and Augusta are the points of departure
of the left line ; each of those cities lays at about 36o miles
from the entrance of the Western states.
The army once arrived at the foot of the mountains, which
ever of these three roads it has followed, finds the same sort
of country to cross. Everywhere the same gaps or passes
succeding one another for a space of forty or fifty miles.
The right line is the shortest; it passes through the most
cultivated part of the Republick, and offers the greatest facili-
ties for the transports of the army. The center line is the
longest and has the worst roads. The left line is rather,
longer than the right; the country is less cultivated and
less inhabited ; but the roads are more numerous and better.
The right and left line are consequently those on which
the enemy may be expected to make the greatest efforts.
Let us now see what means of defense this frontier possesses.
Considering the strength of the line, its direction, the
course of the rivers, the situation of the hills, and the im-
pediments that grow out of the nature of the country alone,
nothing will appear easier than its defense, provided the
principal position be occupied with some little intelligence.
OF NORTH AMERICA. 269
The first position is between the lake Erie and the sources
of the river Alleghany. Two small forts very well placed exist
there at present : the one, called Presquile, is on the banks
of the lake Erie; and the other, the Ox, is near the prin-
cipal source of the Alleghany. This position prevents an enemy
from penetrating to Pittsburg by the open space between
the hills and Niagara. It is easy to be defended, the enemy
having behind him no place fit for a depot, and the country
being very woody, the smallest body of regular troops with
some Indian natives would be sufficient to guard it.
The second position is Pittsburg, which is the true Key
of this frontier. One single look on the map will suffice
to show all that nature has done to strengthen Pittsburg. Its
situation at the point where the Alleghany and Monongahela
join to form the Ohio; covered by mountains and passes
without end, backed by the most astonishing navigation canal
in the universe, by which all sorts of provisions and rein-
forcements can arrive, Pittsburg may truly be called im-
pregnable.
As for the third position, a minute inspection of the different
spots with military eyes, can alone decide between the con-
fluence of the Green Briar river with the great Kanhaway, and
the Plateau of Golay, from whence flow the sources of the
Green Briar. For my part I should prefer the first, which
I conclude to be in greater harmony with the general system
2^0 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
of defense, occupying however at the same time the Plateau
with a post and placing an intermediate body between itself
and the pass of Sweetspring.
The fourth position must be sought near the sources of
the river Tennessee ; but not having visited myself that spot,
I can only speak of it from the inspection of maps and the
informations received from some able inhabitants of the
country.
All the roads which run either from North Carolina, South
Carolina, or Georgia, unite in two points : at Wataga situated
at the confluence of the rivers Wataga and Holsten; and at
Sender's court house, situated at the confluence of Lime stone
creek and French broad river. The distance of those two
points may be about 40 or 45 miles. As to the face of the
country it is covered with hills and woods, and is generally
of a very difficult access. The manner of occupying this po-
sition on a large scale, would be to fill all the mentioned
space with troops, the left wing at Wataga and the right
at Servier. The depot should be placed at Long -Island, a
few miles below Wataga on the river Holsten.
If I am asked why, I do not rather place the depot at
Rnoxville, which is a central point where all the roads and
waters join, I shall answer that Rnoxville, being one hundred
miles farther from the line of operations than Long Island,
would lengthen that line too much, and consequently deprive
OF NORTH AMERICA. 27 1
that frontier of all the advantages it has received from
Nature for its defense : besides which Long Island is more
favorably placed for communications with the Green Briar
and Pittsburg.
From the sources of the river Tennessee to the sea, this
part of the frontier is sheltered by the principal chain of
mountains which follows at a very small distance the left
bank of the river Appalache. This line not being at present
crossed by any road coming from Georgia, it is not possible
so determine the fittest military position, as the choice will be
greately determined by the direction the future roads shall
take.
The result of what has been said is that, notwithstanding the
length of the frontier line, it can only by attacked on a small
number of points, that the Western states can unite on
those points a body of troops at a much shorter notice than
their enemies, who are at a far greater distance from their' de-
pots, and require considerable magazines, artillery and horses.
The frontier line I propose has not only the advantage
of being strong, in a military sense, but is also remarkable
by the valuable division of the waters of the Atlantic from
those of the Mexican gulph, which division gives unchangeable
limits, the mountain countries alone never changing their
nature. Moreover it gives to the Western states four great
outlets to the sea : the Mississipi , the Mobile , Pensacola and
2H 2 SURVEY OF THE WESTERN RIVERS
Sainte-Rose; advantage which will for ever prevent these
states from becoming tributary to those of the Atlantic, and
which contrasts most strikingly with the situation of Canada,
whose only outlet being the river St. Lawrence, must soon
or late fall under the dependance of the States of the East.
Whoever weighs carefully the circumstances, the topo1
graphical situation of the frontier line, the disposition ol
the inhabitants and their love of liberty, will easily com-
prehend that the Atlantic states, far from attacking them,
will on the contrary be forced to court their friendship, if
they value their own political independance and do not wish
to be one day conquered or pushed back to the sea : for
when two nations possess, one the coasts and the other the
plains, the former must inevitably embark or submit.
From thence I conclude that the Western states of the North
American republick must unite themselves with Louisiana and
form in the future one single compact nation; else that colony to
whatever power it shall belong will be conquered or devoured.
I have now shown what Nature has done for the indepen-
dance, peace and safety of the Western states; I say their safety,
for it is the situation of the frontiers which makes the
safety of Empires.
THE END.
m§mm
m^mammm.
mi ■
u:.
■ ■■■ '. i- :. j-.ji ■:■;': '■■• v- ;:-:
-iW '■...,.. :
:' :: : : . ;
M:
Live Music
Archive
Librivox
Free Audio
Metropolitan Museum
Cleveland
Museum of Art
Internet
Arcade
Console Living Room
Open Library
American
Libraries
TV News
Understanding
9/11